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’13 Callaway Razr Fit Xtreme Driver: Pics & Specs

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Callaway Razr Fit Xtreme

To design Callaway’s latest driver, the 2013 Razr Fit Xtreme, company engineers broke down the key ingredients of its most successful drivers models, realigning them with new technology that makes the Razr Fit Xtreme lower spinning, more forgiving and deliver more ball speed than its predecessor, the 2012 Razr Fit driver.

Click here for more discussion in the “Tour/Pre-release equipment” forum.

The Razr Fit Xtreme is also Callaway’s widest ranging driver offering according to Evan Gibbs, manager of performance analysis and club configuration for Callaway. This is because the lower-lofted Razr Fit Xtreme drivers (8.5 degrees, 9.5 degrees and 10.5 degrees) have different performance characteristics than the higher-lofted drivers (11.5 degrees and 13 degrees).

callaway xtreme driver

The OptiFit Hosel adjusts the face angle to an Open, Square, or Closed position at address and the OptiFit Weights (13 grams and 1 gram) also shift the clubhead’s CG to help you play a Draw or Neutral ball flight off the tee.

The lower-lofted Razr Fit Xtreme drivers are modeled after Callaway’s FT Tour drivers, which were extremely popular on the PGA Tour. While the Razr Fit found its way into the bags of many better players and tour players, Callaway received feedback that many preferred the lower-spinning FT Tour drivers to the higher-spinning Razr Fit.

“We took a step back and looked at how each loft was going to be played,” Gibbs said. “We saw that better players wanted a smaller footprint and a more penetrating trajectory, while higher-handicappers wanted larger, more forgiving footprint and more spin for optimum distance.”

In order to lower the spin rate of the Razr Fit Xtreme, Callaway engineers needed to lower the driver’s center of gravity (CG), which they did by removing weight from the driver’s “Forged Composite” crown. Engineers also thinned the perimeter of the “Speed Frame Face” that was used on the Razr Fit driver.

2Y9G4580

This Speed Frame Face creates incredibly fast ball speeds all across the face for longer, more consistent distance.

The thinner face, combined with Callaway’s updated “VFT” and “Hyperbolic Face Technology,” adds more speed to mishits according to Gibbs. The face also has more curvature than in previous Callaway drivers, which helps straighten out off-center strikes.

The weight saved from the face (about 3 grams) was moved to more optimal positions such as the rear toe section of the sole, where it deepens the center of gravity and makes the Razr Fit Xtreme’s adjustable weights more symmetrical, adding stability to the head.

2Y9G4581

 

These changes have resulted in more distance and less spin for Callaway Staffers like Luke List, who led all tours in driving distance in 2012. Gibbs said that during testing List picked up 16.6 yards with the new driver compared to his Razr Fit, adding 0.6 mph of ball speed and reducing his spin rate by almost 500 rpms.

Like the Razr Fit, the Razr Fit Xtreme driver allows golfers to adjust the face angle to one of three settings: neutral, open and closed. But the lower-lofted and higher-lofted models have two very different appearances at address.

The lower-lofted models measure 440cc and have a 1-degree open face angle at the neutral setting. Changing the Opti-Fit Hosel to the open setting on these drivers will open the face another 1.5 degrees, resulting in a face that is 2.5 degrees open at address. If they are adjusted to the closed setting, the face will rest 0.5 degrees closed.

The higher-lofted drivers measure 460cc and are longer heel-to-toe than the lower-lofted versions. This places the sweetspot of the club closer to the hosel, which increases draw bias. The higher-lofted models also sit in a square position when set in neutral, meaning they can be adjusted to either 1.5 degrees open or closed.

On both the lower-lofted and higher lofted drivers, changing to the face angle will also change the loft of the club. The closed setting adds 1 degree of loft to the neutral setting (a 9.5-degree driver becomes a 10.5-degree) while the open setting subtracts 1 degree (a 9.5-degree driver becomes an 8.5-degree). According to Gibbs, Callaway’s testing showed that better players had a tendency to use the Opti-Fit Hosel to adjust loft, while higher handicap players used it to correct a hook or slice.

One of the most important features of the Razr Fit Xtreme drivers to consumers could potentially be the stock shaft offerings. Many OEMs install stripped-down versions of popular shafts in their drivers that have altered characteristics. For Callaway’s newest lineup, the company decided to use an unmodified Aldila Trinity shaft, as well as unmodified Matrix Black Tie7M3 shaft. The Matrix shaft alone carries a $300-plus price tag at retail, making the retail price of the Razr Fit Xtreme, $399, all the more impressive. The Callaway Razr Fit Xtreme drivers will be available at retail on Jan. 18, 2013.

[colored_box color=”grey”]Additional Tech Specs and info:

  • Composite materials such as the Forged Composite that the Razr Fit Xtreme driver uses in its crown have a tendency to mute a driver’s sound and cause a “thud” feeling at impact. According to Gibbs, Callaway engineers worked hard on the acoustics of the Razr Fit Xtreme, making sure it had a “loud and metallic” sound.
  • Callaway received feedback that the 2012 Razr Fit’s swingweight of D6 was too heavy, so the 2013 Razr Fit Xtreme drivers will have a D4 swingweight, which was accomplished by reducing the head weight 5 grams. Standard shaft lengths with be 45.5 inches.
  • The tip diameter of the Opti-Fit Hosel has been changed from 0.350 to 0.335 to match industry trends. Previous Opti-Fit Hosels will fit in the Razr Fit Xtreme drivers, but their 0.350 shafts will not fit in the new Opti-Fit sleeves.
  • A weight kit of 4, 6, 8 and 10 grams will be available to adjust CG and swingweight. No Tour Authentic model is planned at this time, nor is there an Opti-Fit Hosel with more options in the works according to Gibbs.
  • The green color of the Razr Fit was inspired by the popularity of the 2012 Razr Fit Tour Authentic driver, which also has a green color scheme. It also matches the color of the most playable shaft option, the Aldila Trinity.
  • Callaway’s UDesign for the Razr Fit Xtreme driver will launch on Jan. 18 with the driver. Consumers will be able to choose from eight different color options — black, white, blue, red, orange, green, purple and yellow — which can be placed on the sole, crown, or both. Laser etching on the sole will also be available, although pricing is still undetermined. Expect for it to be around $50.[/colored_box]

Check out the shaft specs and photos below, and and click here for more discussion in the “Tour/Pre-release equipment” forum.

Unmodified Aldila Trinity

X Flex 68g, 280cpm, 3.9deg torque, 104mm tip flex. .335″ tip diameter

S Flex 67 g, 269 cpm, 4.5 deg torque, 112mm tip flex,  .335″ tip diameter

R Flex 64 g, 247 cpm, 5.4 deg torque, 124mm tip flex,  .335″ tip diameter

L Flex 63g, 229cpm, 6.3 deg torque, 129mm tip flex,  .335″ tip diameter

Unmodified Matrix Black Tie 7M3

X flex 74g, 265cpm, 4.1deg torque, 85mm tip flex, .335″ tip diameter

S Flex 71g, 253cpm, 4.2 deg torque, 90mm tip flex,  .335″ tip diameter

R Flex 69g, 243cpm, 4.4 deg torque, 93mm tip flex,  .335″ tip diameter

Click here for more discussion in the “Tour/Pre-release equipment” forum.

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26 Comments

26 Comments

  1. Parker

    Sep 14, 2014 at 1:08 am

    Got this thing in June 2014, 10.5 w the Aldila S shaft. HATED it at first, I was playing a TM R10TP w/ a Graffaloy Prolaunch 3.5X at the time. My initial impression was that this thing felt hollow, and I was losing some distance with the lower spin. After hitting this thing all summer, I’m glad to say I was totally wrong. If you have a good driver swing, this thing can really crank the ball. Off center hits are generally forgivable, unless you hit it high on the face, where the ball will launch high with a ton of back spin, and probably slice. Low toe/heel hits definitely go low, but still deliver enough ball speed to get acceptable distance.

    My only complaint is the sound… it sounds like hammering a nail in an empty concert hall… very metallic and echo-y. Nothing like the baseball home run sound I was used to with drivers in the past. The feel is also a tad soft at impact, but don’t let that fool you, this thing delivers a serious punch.

    I’ve found this thing works best with a higher compression ball, but maybe that’s just my preference.

  2. Pingback: On The Aldila Trinity 335 Graphite

  3. Dave

    Sep 9, 2013 at 5:09 pm

    Hit the razr fit xtreme with the 9.5 loft 20 yards further on the simulator than I have hit any other club in my life. I was hitting 260 yards consistently, which I will take everyday of the week. My birthday is next month I’m going back and getting it, Happy Birthday to me!!!

  4. Dustin

    Feb 22, 2013 at 1:13 am

    what is the stock size for the razr fit adapter and hossel? i know for the razr fit xtreme its .335…i was wandering if the razr fit was the same?

  5. Bruce Loman

    Dec 29, 2012 at 12:56 pm

    Most of the comments having to do with the names and looks are comical. Its the fact that the materials are a step ahead of everyone else to build a superior golf club. This started with BIg Bertha and continues today. The incremental steps taken ever couple of years builds a better product. Callaway is always a step ahead with material that outperforms anyone else.

  6. Tay

    Nov 28, 2012 at 2:39 am

    I have hit this driver with the new Trinity shaft. It’s actually really good. But callaway is coming out with a new line of drivers and woods called the Hot series and there basically the same just with a little cheaper price tag. The Hot series is supposed to be a longer club and will be offered in grey.

  7. john

    Nov 27, 2012 at 7:54 am

    the trinity shaft is only in this driver but thats because it isnt even released yet, there will be a mass offering of that shaft eventually. the club is LEGIT looking, i dont understand people that complain about glare, looking down at a bright white head with scuffs all over it is worse looking that this is, for me anyway. plus the udesign you can get all sorts of color combos top and bottom. the distance gained by luke isnt suspect if you have any idea about trackman and how to make it produce huge numbers, hit a low spin draw and itll pump out some huge digits for you, but the point of the club is to make your current ability perform better so his not gaining much speed is exactly the point.

  8. Tommyn

    Nov 20, 2012 at 12:43 pm

    another toy with different packaging let’s see it on the field before running out to buy need more stock ops for shafts

  9. Jordan

    Nov 20, 2012 at 9:18 am

    Does anyone know if the uDesign option comes with a different head cover color? Fit example if white was selected, would white trim be on the hc instead of the green?

  10. Johnny

    Nov 17, 2012 at 2:37 pm

    Well, the marketing from TM always entices me to demo their woods, but they haven’t performed better than the Callaway woods these past few years for me at least. I love my Razr Fit, but look forward to trying this Exreme driver, I like the smaller head size and the new color scheme. I haven’t heard of that Trinity shaft which I will need some more information on. Looks good, hope it hits good.

  11. Joe Golfer

    Nov 16, 2012 at 12:25 am

    The distance increase by Luke List seems suspect to me. It says that ball speed increased only 0.6 mph (less than one mph), which means that his swing speed was roughly only 0.4 mph more, since ball speed is roughly 1.5 times swing speed. And the spin went down only 500 rpm’s. Hard to believe that this equates to over 16 yards increase.
    I’m glad they’re using unmodified shafts such as the Matrix shaft, but the Trinity shaft will be used ONLY in this Callaway club, so that is misleading since Callaway could have had it made to any specs it wants, as it is not a true aftermarket high grade shaft. The torque is quite high in this shaft for a supposedly premium shaft (4.5 in S flex, 5.4 in R flex), and the disparity in flex frequency (cpm’s) is really big between the R and S flex, considering that one flex is typically just 10 cpm’s (like in the Matrix specs), while in this Trinity shaft it is 22 cpm’s difference, which is actually two full flexes+.
    But I do like the look of the club, and the Twitter marketing campaign worked very well.
    I’ve tried prior Callaway drivers with their stock Callaway Aldila Voodoo shaft, but I don’t think it was the true Voodoo aftermarket shaft, and the S flex was quite whippy.

  12. Blanco

    Nov 15, 2012 at 2:54 am

    Not wild about the whole “we know what players/hacks want” line. Why not just release two versions in a variety of lofts instead of forcing certain players into an ego vs. performance decision. Also– the thing looks nice from the top, but I wouldn’t be caught dead what that “ghostbuster barf” green, even if I was Ian Poulter.

  13. mrein

    Nov 15, 2012 at 1:43 am

    What I think really makes a difference are the higher quality shafts the OEM are putting into their Clubs

    • Dustin

      Feb 22, 2013 at 12:03 am

      do you know what the size of the adaptor is of this? just wandering if it is the same at the razr fit from last year

  14. ds

    Nov 14, 2012 at 4:48 pm

    image 1 top left hand coner…Reflection, Reflection, Reflection!!! when are you guys going to get it…go white, the year is 2013! Get Harry and the guru marketing team to talk up how good it is you can see up your own nose at address. Phil will have to get a new TM driver to match his RBZ 3 wood…You dont need a crystal ball to see another Q1 loss for Callaway next year…come on guys you are better that this?

  15. Eric

    Nov 14, 2012 at 2:35 pm

    Would be very surprised if it outperformed my 9* FT-iZ with blueboard; the first Razr fit with stock Kai’li didn’t…

  16. stephen

    Nov 14, 2012 at 2:25 pm

    I am surprised there isn’t a lightweight shaft option, 67 and 71 g in stiff flex. I like the look of the head but with my 101-103mph swing speed I doubt it will be longer for me than my current set up my a 55g shaft

  17. Roger in NZ

    Nov 14, 2012 at 12:19 pm

    Zak, really appreciate the Shafts and CPM ratings.I buy one model old..bought a 910D3 yesterday with
    Regular Kai’li .Great technical analysis of how they designed the Extreme.
    I’m an ex FT IZ owner.No doubt a new R11 is due tomorrow in response, so we all win !

  18. Mat

    Nov 14, 2012 at 12:15 pm

    “Yours free when you buy the Xbox 360 – Halo 4 Edition”

  19. Eric

    Nov 14, 2012 at 11:52 am

    This looks awesome. I can’t wait to get one. I have the Tour Authentic now and Love it. Hopefully the cog is the same so I can use the same shafts I already have.

  20. John

    Nov 14, 2012 at 11:46 am

    I usually never get excited about “New” as the improvements are usually slight and it takes a few years for them to add up enough for me to make a purchase- that said; I want one of these if the shafts work for me.

  21. Lee

    Nov 14, 2012 at 11:45 am

    Different paint, same old hype….. and Luke List picks up another 16.6 yards – yawn! No disrespect to Luke but didn’t see him playing with Rory, Tiger, Phil and co much this past season.

  22. Mr X

    Nov 14, 2012 at 11:18 am

    OK enough with the X-anything anymore and ever again. It is old tired lazy out of touch marketing. If Xtreme is never heard from again nobody would notice. But 8 year olds love it and monster trucks

  23. Brandon Bowen

    Nov 14, 2012 at 9:30 am

    That driver looks crunk. I bet when you smash it. It goes far bro.

    • Ed Bowling

      Feb 3, 2013 at 7:48 pm

      Funny Comments since Phil just nailed the Scottdale….Watch the “same old hype” stuff go strong now….everyone knows more than the guys that do it…….hilarious…..

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Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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