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12 Important Changes to the 2017 TaylorMade M1 and M2 Drivers

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TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 and M2 drivers share the same name as their highly rated predecessors, but they’re very different clubs both inside and out. Here’s a list of 12 important changes TaylorMade made to the 2017 M1 and M2 drivers, which will be in stores Jan. 27, 2017.

1) A Lighter Core

TaylorMade_M1_M2_Drivers_Feat_2

Each of TaylorMade’s 2017 drivers (M1 460, M1 440, M2 and M2 D-Type) use 9-1-1 titanium alloy cores. The lower-density material saves 3 grams of weight from the design, creating a lighter “skeleton” that paved the way for specialized changes to each new driver model.

Before the release of the 2016 M1 and M2 drivers, which were TaylorMade’s first to use carbon fiber crowns to move weight lower and deeper in the club head, the company made its driver crowns from 9-1-1 titanium alloy, so TaylorMade has experience using the material. TaylorMade previously used a higher-density 6-4 titanium alloy to create the skeletons of its original M1 and M2 drivers.

2) Bigger Club Heads

TaylorMade_M1_M2_drivers_address

Both the 2017 M1 and M2 drivers use size to their advantage. Their toe sections are recessed, or pushed in, which allowed designers to expand the footprint of the drivers while still complying with the USGA’s maximum allowable club head size of 460 cubic centimeter. The new geometries improved the moment of inertia (MOI) of the club heads to 4420 grams-centimeters squared in the M1 460 and 5020 grams-centimeters squared in the M2.

  • The M1’s footprint is 4 percent larger.
  • The M2’s footprint is 2 percent larger, and the club face is 7 percent larger.

Essentially, TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 460 driver is as forgiving as the 2016 M2, and the 2017 M2 is the most forgiving driver model in company history, TaylorMade says.

3) More Carbon Fiber

M1_multi_material_driver

The new M1 uses 43 percent more carbon fiber than its predecessor, expanding the use of the material to the toe section of the club. The carbon fiber crown itself is also 10 percent thinner, and is constructed from six layers of carbon fiber instead of the seven layers that were used to create the 2016 M1 and M2 drivers.

Because of the lighter toe section, TaylorMade was able to move its T-Track, the M1’s sliding weight system, closer to the toe area of the sole where the driver is longer from front to back, enabling the track to be lengthened by 12.7 millimeters. The 19-percent longer track allows golfers to move the sliding weight more rearward, a change that enhances forgiveness and can create a higher launch angle.

The heel-toe sliding weight track is also 7 percent longer than the one employed on the 2016 M1 460 driver, allowing for further draw/fade bias control.

4) FF2FF: A More Refined Crown

FF2FF_M1_address

TaylorMade’s new carbon fiber crown has a thickness of 0.6 millimeters, lowering the center of gravity (CG) of the drivers, and is more precisely applied to each driver head. Instead of club heads and crowns being manufactured in bulk, each club head and crown is perfectly matched to each other ensure a perfect fit and reduce the amount of adhesive needed to secure the two parts.

The 2016 M1 and M2 drivers had crown thicknesses of 0.7 millimeters, and used several layers of paint to create the black-and-white alignment aid on the top of the driver head. The 2017 models use less paint. It sounds counterintuitive, but reducing the amount of paint makes the crowns less likely to chip. Think about what happens when paint is applied too thickly to a surface.

5) A Heavier Sliding Weight

M1_driver_T_track

TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 driver uses a 15-gram weight in its heel-toe weight track, and a 12-gram weight in its front-back weight track. The 12-gram front-back weight is 2.5 grams heavier than the weight used in the original M1 driver, giving golfers more control over launch conditions.

6) A New Loft Sleeve

Aluminum_loft_sleeve

Both the 2017 M1 and M2 drivers use a new aluminum loft sleeve, which is the same weight as the plastic loft sleeves the company used previously. The switch to aluminum makes the loft sleeves more durable for club fitters, while remaining backwards compatible with previous loft sleeves.

7) A Draw-Biased M2

4d04c5ec9fe70783c8f6acb703aac75d

Discussions TaylorMade had with its retail accounts revealed that a driver model with more draw bias could offer a subset of golfers better performance than the existing M1 and M2 models. For them, TaylorMade designed the M2 D-Type, which is different than the 2017 M2 driver in four ways:

  1. It has a 1-degree more upright lie angle.
  2. It has more weight located in the heel portion of the driver head.
  3. It has a more “forward” hosel, which adds offset to the driver.
  4. Its carbon fiber crown has a thicker white section that’s curved to make the club face appear square at address.

The combined changes help golfers return the driver to impact in a more closed position than the 2017 M1 460, M1 440 and M2 drivers. According to TaylorMade, the M2 D-Type will launch shots with about 250 rpm more spin and produce 12 yards more draw bias.

8) A Little More Draw Bias for Everyone

M2_Draw_Bias

The M1 460, M1 440 and M2 drivers have slightly more draw bias than previous models. According to TaylorMade, the 2017 M1 460 and M1 440 offer about 1-2 yards more draw bias. The 2017 M2 offers a few more yards of draw bias than that.

9) A More Active Speed Pocket

M2_Speed_Pocket

The 2017 M2 driver has a more rearward CG that tends to cause drives to fly with excessive spin. To reduce it, TaylorMade made the M2’s Speed Pocket, a slot located on the front of the driver’s sole, three times more flexible than the original model. It also helps improve ball speed on off-center hits, a phenomenon known as “effective MOI.”

10) The M1 440

TaylorMade_M1_440_460_Sole

TaylorMade M1 440 (left) and M1 460 drivers.

The M1 440 is designed for golfers who prefer a smaller, more workable driver than the M1 460. It’s said to hit drives with approximately the same launch angle and spin rate as the M1 460, but initial testing proved that it can reduce spin by several hundred rotations per minute.

The smaller size of the M1 440 allowed TaylorMade to increase the weight in the front-back weight track of the driver to 15 grams, making each of its T-Track weights 15 grams.

11) Geocoustic

M2_Geocustic

Like the 2017 M1 460 and M1 440 drivers, the new M2 driver uses a “sunken sole curvature,” which allowed the driver head to be made larger. It also made the toe section of the driver stiffer, allowing engineers to use fewer “ribs” inside the driver head, saving weight from the design. Instead, TaylorMade added ribs to the outside of the driver head, where it could move CG lower and deeper in the club head and improve sound in the process.

12) New Stock Shafts

f4a75c66189faf9c95b08fdc57e73206 (1)

TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 460 and M1 440 drivers are available with three stock shafts:

  • High-Launch: Fujikura XLR8 Pro 56 (A, R, S flexes)
  • Mid-Launch: MRC Kuro Kage Silver Dual Core TiNi 60 (R, S, X flexes)
  • Low-Launch: Project X HZRDUS Yellow 65 (6.0, 6.5 flexes)

The 2017 M2 and M2 D-Type are available with two different stock shafts:

  • M2: Fujikura Pro XLR8 56 (A, R, S, X flexes)
  • M2 D-Type: Matrix’ OZIK MFS X5 (A, R S flexes)

All four drivers are can be purchased with 30+ custom shaft options for no added cost. Learn more by visiting TaylorMade’s Custom Shop website.

Available Lofts

  • M1 460 (8.5, 9.5, 10.5 and 12 degrees)
  • M1 440 (8.5, 9.5 and 10.5 degrees),
  • M2 and M2 D-Type (9.5, 10.5 and 12)

The M1 460 and M2 drivers are available in lofts of 9.5 and 10.5 degrees for left-handed golfers.

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34 Comments

34 Comments

  1. Jesse Harris

    Oct 29, 2017 at 4:18 pm

    I just finished at my fitters , my swing speed is 118-123 mph , hit all the clubs, stock are all set up for an average player, high swing speed are going to produce a slice every driver head was very close, the shaft is what will get you into that 1.5 smash factor and what I found was the m1 and a Fuji speeder x stiff tour , 320 carry with a 1.52 smash factor was the best for me , I loved the feel and sound bombs away

  2. BP

    Feb 20, 2017 at 12:52 pm

    Will 2017 m1 adapter fit into 2016 m1 head?

  3. BP

    Feb 20, 2017 at 12:51 pm

    Will the new 2017 m1 adapter fit in to a 2016 m1 head?

  4. Square

    Dec 9, 2016 at 6:51 am

    I liked TM products years ago and then fell out of love during the R11-R1 season. The SLDR was the worst of the worst. Decided to try the M1 for kicks following a layoff after hand surgery. My numbers were sick with the M1. Purchased it last spring and after about 10 sessions at the range, experimenting with different settings and weight setting, I finally dialed it in. Truthfully, it’s the best driver I’ve ever had for me. I’ve hit some really long drives with it, but I like the consistency I get from the M1. I have the m1 3 wood too and it’s a freak show. I’ll give this one a whirl and compare the numbers but I can’t really see how they could make it better.

  5. KK

    Dec 8, 2016 at 11:45 pm

    M2 having a larger face and being most forgiving TM driver ever is very interesting. But that is likely bad for spin reduction.

  6. Speedy

    Dec 8, 2016 at 9:00 pm

    I’m dormant toward new ‘n improved claims, not to mention prices. $149 seems fair.

  7. Larry Fox

    Dec 8, 2016 at 6:01 pm

    I’m still hitting an r5!!!! Whats the big deal!

  8. BS Caller

    Dec 8, 2016 at 2:46 pm

    Biggest change is that Tiger is on the other end… To me these look like a black and white wing tip shoe….

  9. Et

    Dec 8, 2016 at 2:25 am

    We live in exciting times

  10. John Krug

    Dec 7, 2016 at 7:48 pm

    Waiting for the M3.

  11. Buford T Justice

    Dec 7, 2016 at 2:05 pm

    “The 12-gram front-back weight is 2.5 grams heavier than the 10-gram weight used in the original M1 driver”

    Math is hard.

  12. Smizzly

    Dec 7, 2016 at 11:35 am

    Golfwrx is in on the scam now…….

  13. Branson Reynolds

    Dec 7, 2016 at 10:55 am

    Doesn’t matter if they test like crap. GS Hot List is still gonna give them gold medals and 5 stars!

  14. Branson Reynolds

    Dec 7, 2016 at 10:53 am

    I can’t believe adidas wants to get rid of TM so badly. It’s not like they over-saturate or anything.

  15. TigerArmy

    Dec 7, 2016 at 4:38 am

    The Taylormade M1 and M2 reviews of Rick Shiels were a complete disaster compared to the 2015/16 models. Mark Crossfield didn’t get any clubs to review for dubious reasons. Taylormade has a lot to explain!

    • Leon

      Dec 7, 2016 at 10:30 am

      Hit the nail!! The 2017 M1 and M2 seem sound worse, feel worse, look worse, and perform worse. 12 important changes = a sucker club

    • Ben

      Dec 7, 2016 at 10:41 am

      Nothing to explain, Crossfield is unprofessional. About time IMO.

    • Brian

      Dec 7, 2016 at 3:23 pm

      Don’t know if it’s the club heads or Rick’s swing changes. I went back and re-watched his M1 reviews and he was getting 5mph more speed (116 vs. 111) with the original M1 model.

      I don’t care either way. I have the original M1, which is the best driver I’ve ever hit, and I won’t be changing any time soon.

  16. Cris

    Dec 7, 2016 at 2:10 am

    Why more draw bias across the spectrum? That’s a poor decision. Leave the draw bias in one of your products only. Gees.

  17. Tim

    Dec 7, 2016 at 12:52 am

    All kinds of bells and whistles on this new 2017 model…cool, oh but in 2018 it will still be obsolete…and guys that have a 15 handicap will still have a 15 handicap only be $400 lighter in the wallet….

    • Tony Rich

      Dec 7, 2016 at 1:54 am

      Agreed…..more draw bias when their clubs already duck hook? Tiger could’ve saved himself 6 strokes in the desert without the pull hook from his TM last week. These guys love to market their new driver…every 3 months.

      • Ummmm

        Dec 7, 2016 at 7:50 am

        Are people really still saying this crap?

        They haven’t had a new driver in a year and any pro can have any bia they want hotmelted away or added. Tiger hasn’t hit a driver straight in 10 years it’s not the clubs fault.

        Try educating yourself so you don’t look like a fool.

        • Tony Rich

          Dec 7, 2016 at 7:47 pm

          Ummmmm……go buy one then. You must be the guy who bought the M1 and M2 in 2016. M2, R15, RBZ, they all go the same distance and are just as crooked. Taylor Made should change their name to Waste Ur Pay.

      • Leon

        Dec 7, 2016 at 10:32 am

        Totally agreed. The M2 is just so easy to hook or pull the ball. But since 80% guys are fighting the slice, so you will rarely see anyone complain the hook.

      • Brian

        Dec 7, 2016 at 5:04 pm

        If you’re hitting duck hooks, you might want to take a lesson or two. Clubs don’t hit duck hooks, swings do.

  18. Boobsy McKiss

    Dec 7, 2016 at 12:37 am

    Some good looking drivers. Am curious just how much more forgiving the newer M2 is compared with last year, all other things aside.

  19. Jack

    Dec 6, 2016 at 9:13 pm

    No comments? Maybe cuz the webpage crashes when it’s trying to load. Does that on both my Chrome and Edge browsers. I had to stop the loading right after the text loads.

    • Frosty

      Dec 6, 2016 at 9:45 pm

      You should stop using a Windoze PC from 1998 with OS 4. Go make some money and buy yourself a real computer lmao

    • Rob

      Dec 7, 2016 at 9:32 am

      Simple fix…go upstairs tell your mom to reset the internet. Unplug…count to 10…plug back in. Then sit back and enjoy the comments!

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What GolfWRXers are saying about iron covers

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@thegolfinggreen

In our forums, our members have been discussing iron covers with WRXer ‘anythingfinite’ championing the use of iron covers when walking. As a walker, ‘anythingfinite’ says

“I hated the sound of clubs clanking together with every step. So I used neoprene iron covers and endured the ridicule for years. They never, ever slowed my play as I average 18 holes in a little over 2.5hrs playing by myself. It was never about protecting resale value, just about the noise.”

And our members have been discussing iron covers and whether they currently use them or would be tempted to use them in the future.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jvincent: “Clanking irons in the bag is like the sound of metal spikes on a path. It’s old school golf.”
  • Z1ggy16: “Toss your club cleaning towel in the clubs to help stop them from clanking *as much*. You can also use your one hand to kind of hold some of them in place as you walk.”
  • Windlaker_1: “I use the neoprene covers. Not for resale value, as I normally keep them so long they aren’t worth diddley-poo at that point. Use them to maintain a nice-looking set of irons.”
  • MtlJeff: “I don’t really notice it that much when I walk, to be honest. Maybe its how I arrange my clubs….If the clanging is bothering me, you can just move the clubs slightly, and it usually mitigates it. But if you’re like, breakdancing down the fairway, tough to stop it.”
  • puttingmatt: “It’s your choice. I use iron covers, lets me not forget a club around the green, as the cover in pocket is a quick reminder that something is a miss. Also, it’s a good way to protect your clubs, and at these prices, makes you wonder why not since woods and putters are sold with covers that are intended to be used. One other note, it may keep others from assessing what’s in the bag, and keep a thief wondering if the bag is worth the effort. Hate the feeling about club theft, but clubs are targets.”

Entire Thread: “Confessions of an iron cover user”

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Is 8 degrees between pitching wedge and sand wedge too much? – GolfWRXers have their say

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In our forums, our members have been discussing gapping degrees and whether 8-degrees between your PW and SW is too much. WRXer ‘jonsnow’ seldom hits his GW and is considering dropping the club from the bag and wants to know, if he does so, will the current 8-degree gap between his wedges be too much. Our members have their say.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • ZA206: “For years I played a 47 PW and a 56 SW. I had a big hole in my scoring irons range (115-105 yards) that I tried to avoid at all costs. It cost me many strokes over the years. I felt like that gap was way too big and eventually settled on 46, 51, 55 (I also play a 60 LW) as my preferred setup. No gaps and I can hit every yardage without any issue. I’m a much better wedge player now than I ever was back then, but that’s not due to having more wedges, that’s more about technique.”
  • RainShadow: “In theory, yes. In actual real world action, depends on how many types of shots you can hit with the PW.”
  • MtlJeff: “I’ve played with 52 to 60 gaps. It depends on what type of shots you want to hit. I never chip with sand wedge and would rather hit a 3/4 shot with a 52 than a full with a 56. So it all depends on your game.”
  • bazinky: “A lot depends on how often you have shots in that yardage range. For example, I replaced my 50 and 54 with a single 52 wedge because I hardly ever had a yardage that required my 50 (I would sometimes go weeks without ever hitting it). That said, my biggest gap is 6 degrees. I think it’s doable as long as you have the discipline to be smart when you have a bad yardage. It can be tough to just aim for the fat of the green when you have a wedge in your hand.”
  • Pingistheanser: “I don’t think so. I’m more of a believer that you should pick lofts based upon the distances that you need to hit from. If those lofts allow you to hit distances that you need to hit, then they’re fine for you. I’m not a believer that you should have 4-degree gaps between your wedges because what good is a club that you never hit because you never find yourself in that distance range? For a time last year, I carried a 46-degree AW and a 56 degree as my only wedges, and they worked just fine. I’d sometimes have to make some adjustments if I found myself 90 yards off of the green because it would be too far for the 56, so I would just narrow my stance, grip down a bit and only swing the AW at about 75%.”

Entire Thread: “Is 8 degrees between PW and SW too much?”

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Are modern irons with stronger lofts easier/harder to hit than older irons? – GolfWRXers have their say

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In our forums, our members have been discussing modern irons with stronger lofts and whether they are easier or harder to play than older irons. WRXer ‘harpu728’ kicks off the thread saying:

“Being that higher-lofted irons within the same set are easier to hit (i.e. an 8 iron is easier to hit than a 6 iron), I’m trying to draw comparisons to modern irons with stronger lofts, and if these lofts make them harder to hit in theory.

My 10-year-old’s 7 iron is 33 degrees and carries about 150. When comparing this to some of the newer sets out there where 7-irons are slightly longer (club length) and have lofts of 30 degrees, would this mean that ‘on paper’ the modern 7-iron is ‘harder’ to hit than my 10-year old’s 7 iron? Or should I be comparing my 7-iron to the modern 8-iron, which would likely carry as far as my current 7-iron?”

And our members have been weighing in with their thoughts in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • CAT GOLFER: “Good question, the way I understand it, disregard the number on the bottom of the club. A stronger(lower) loft in newer irons will produce a higher ball flight than the weaker(higher) loft in older clubs. At least that is the marketing pitch. The intent is to make it easier to launch the ball higher and in the process easier to hit. Also, keep in mind modern clubs also have more forgiveness built into them. Stronger lofted, higher launching, easier to hit if you buy the whole pitch.”
  • Sean2: “I don’t pay attention to the number on the club, so much as the loft. With the stronger lofts, I have no long irons in my bag as I simply can’t hit them…maybe being 65 has something to do with it as well, lol. At one time I carried 4-iron on down, now it’s 7-iron on down. But no way I can hit a 18º-19º 4-iron, let alone a 21º 5. I have the same number of irons…they just have a different number/letter on them than they did before.”
  • Warrick: “Important to pair the right shaft with these new iron setups, more so than ever.”
  • puttingmatt: “Look at it like this, instead of missing the green with a standard lofted 7 iron, now you can miss the green with the strong lofted 8 iron. I do not think the modern lofted irons translate into better scores or better misses for golfers. The loft alone is not going to turn a 5hc into a scratch player.”
  • lil’mike: “I guess you could say it something like this. Nowadays when you use a 5 iron, you get the height of a 6 iron but the distance of a 4 iron! Lol. I do think that it can make it hard to hold greens with the irons producing lower spin or at least too low of spin like some reviewers have mentioned in some cases. The bad thing about the stronger lofts is that they are getting to the point of needing two-gap wedges now before you reach the loft spacing that a sand wedge loft of 56 degrees has. For example, the new Mavrik irons have two gap wedges. So it is a 4 iron at 18 degrees, a PW is 41, so AW is 46 and GW is 51. I think that is getting ridiculous as they are turning the stock set makeup from 3-PW to 6-double gap wedge! lol”

Entire Thread: “Are modern irons with stronger lofts easier/harder to hit than older irons?”

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