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12 Important Changes to the 2017 TaylorMade M1 and M2 Drivers

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TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 and M2 drivers share the same name as their highly rated predecessors, but they’re very different clubs both inside and out. Here’s a list of 12 important changes TaylorMade made to the 2017 M1 and M2 drivers, which will be in stores Jan. 27, 2017.

1) A Lighter Core

TaylorMade_M1_M2_Drivers_Feat_2

Each of TaylorMade’s 2017 drivers (M1 460, M1 440, M2 and M2 D-Type) use 9-1-1 titanium alloy cores. The lower-density material saves 3 grams of weight from the design, creating a lighter “skeleton” that paved the way for specialized changes to each new driver model.

Before the release of the 2016 M1 and M2 drivers, which were TaylorMade’s first to use carbon fiber crowns to move weight lower and deeper in the club head, the company made its driver crowns from 9-1-1 titanium alloy, so TaylorMade has experience using the material. TaylorMade previously used a higher-density 6-4 titanium alloy to create the skeletons of its original M1 and M2 drivers.

2) Bigger Club Heads

TaylorMade_M1_M2_drivers_address

Both the 2017 M1 and M2 drivers use size to their advantage. Their toe sections are recessed, or pushed in, which allowed designers to expand the footprint of the drivers while still complying with the USGA’s maximum allowable club head size of 460 cubic centimeter. The new geometries improved the moment of inertia (MOI) of the club heads to 4420 grams-centimeters squared in the M1 460 and 5020 grams-centimeters squared in the M2.

  • The M1’s footprint is 4 percent larger.
  • The M2’s footprint is 2 percent larger, and the club face is 7 percent larger.

Essentially, TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 460 driver is as forgiving as the 2016 M2, and the 2017 M2 is the most forgiving driver model in company history, TaylorMade says.

3) More Carbon Fiber

M1_multi_material_driver

The new M1 uses 43 percent more carbon fiber than its predecessor, expanding the use of the material to the toe section of the club. The carbon fiber crown itself is also 10 percent thinner, and is constructed from six layers of carbon fiber instead of the seven layers that were used to create the 2016 M1 and M2 drivers.

Because of the lighter toe section, TaylorMade was able to move its T-Track, the M1’s sliding weight system, closer to the toe area of the sole where the driver is longer from front to back, enabling the track to be lengthened by 12.7 millimeters. The 19-percent longer track allows golfers to move the sliding weight more rearward, a change that enhances forgiveness and can create a higher launch angle.

The heel-toe sliding weight track is also 7 percent longer than the one employed on the 2016 M1 460 driver, allowing for further draw/fade bias control.

4) FF2FF: A More Refined Crown

FF2FF_M1_address

TaylorMade’s new carbon fiber crown has a thickness of 0.6 millimeters, lowering the center of gravity (CG) of the drivers, and is more precisely applied to each driver head. Instead of club heads and crowns being manufactured in bulk, each club head and crown is perfectly matched to each other ensure a perfect fit and reduce the amount of adhesive needed to secure the two parts.

The 2016 M1 and M2 drivers had crown thicknesses of 0.7 millimeters, and used several layers of paint to create the black-and-white alignment aid on the top of the driver head. The 2017 models use less paint. It sounds counterintuitive, but reducing the amount of paint makes the crowns less likely to chip. Think about what happens when paint is applied too thickly to a surface.

5) A Heavier Sliding Weight

M1_driver_T_track

TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 driver uses a 15-gram weight in its heel-toe weight track, and a 12-gram weight in its front-back weight track. The 12-gram front-back weight is 2.5 grams heavier than the weight used in the original M1 driver, giving golfers more control over launch conditions.

6) A New Loft Sleeve

Aluminum_loft_sleeve

Both the 2017 M1 and M2 drivers use a new aluminum loft sleeve, which is the same weight as the plastic loft sleeves the company used previously. The switch to aluminum makes the loft sleeves more durable for club fitters, while remaining backwards compatible with previous loft sleeves.

7) A Draw-Biased M2

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Discussions TaylorMade had with its retail accounts revealed that a driver model with more draw bias could offer a subset of golfers better performance than the existing M1 and M2 models. For them, TaylorMade designed the M2 D-Type, which is different than the 2017 M2 driver in four ways:

  1. It has a 1-degree more upright lie angle.
  2. It has more weight located in the heel portion of the driver head.
  3. It has a more “forward” hosel, which adds offset to the driver.
  4. Its carbon fiber crown has a thicker white section that’s curved to make the club face appear square at address.

The combined changes help golfers return the driver to impact in a more closed position than the 2017 M1 460, M1 440 and M2 drivers. According to TaylorMade, the M2 D-Type will launch shots with about 250 rpm more spin and produce 12 yards more draw bias.

8) A Little More Draw Bias for Everyone

M2_Draw_Bias

The M1 460, M1 440 and M2 drivers have slightly more draw bias than previous models. According to TaylorMade, the 2017 M1 460 and M1 440 offer about 1-2 yards more draw bias. The 2017 M2 offers a few more yards of draw bias than that.

9) A More Active Speed Pocket

M2_Speed_Pocket

The 2017 M2 driver has a more rearward CG that tends to cause drives to fly with excessive spin. To reduce it, TaylorMade made the M2’s Speed Pocket, a slot located on the front of the driver’s sole, three times more flexible than the original model. It also helps improve ball speed on off-center hits, a phenomenon known as “effective MOI.”

10) The M1 440

TaylorMade_M1_440_460_Sole

TaylorMade M1 440 (left) and M1 460 drivers.

The M1 440 is designed for golfers who prefer a smaller, more workable driver than the M1 460. It’s said to hit drives with approximately the same launch angle and spin rate as the M1 460, but initial testing proved that it can reduce spin by several hundred rotations per minute.

The smaller size of the M1 440 allowed TaylorMade to increase the weight in the front-back weight track of the driver to 15 grams, making each of its T-Track weights 15 grams.

11) Geocoustic

M2_Geocustic

Like the 2017 M1 460 and M1 440 drivers, the new M2 driver uses a “sunken sole curvature,” which allowed the driver head to be made larger. It also made the toe section of the driver stiffer, allowing engineers to use fewer “ribs” inside the driver head, saving weight from the design. Instead, TaylorMade added ribs to the outside of the driver head, where it could move CG lower and deeper in the club head and improve sound in the process.

12) New Stock Shafts

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TaylorMade’s 2017 M1 460 and M1 440 drivers are available with three stock shafts:

  • High-Launch: Fujikura XLR8 Pro 56 (A, R, S flexes)
  • Mid-Launch: MRC Kuro Kage Silver Dual Core TiNi 60 (R, S, X flexes)
  • Low-Launch: Project X HZRDUS Yellow 65 (6.0, 6.5 flexes)

The 2017 M2 and M2 D-Type are available with two different stock shafts:

  • M2: Fujikura Pro XLR8 56 (A, R, S, X flexes)
  • M2 D-Type: Matrix’ OZIK MFS X5 (A, R S flexes)

All four drivers are can be purchased with 30+ custom shaft options for no added cost. Learn more by visiting TaylorMade’s Custom Shop website.

Available Lofts

  • M1 460 (8.5, 9.5, 10.5 and 12 degrees)
  • M1 440 (8.5, 9.5 and 10.5 degrees),
  • M2 and M2 D-Type (9.5, 10.5 and 12)

The M1 460 and M2 drivers are available in lofts of 9.5 and 10.5 degrees for left-handed golfers.

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34 Comments

34 Comments

  1. Jesse Harris

    Oct 29, 2017 at 4:18 pm

    I just finished at my fitters , my swing speed is 118-123 mph , hit all the clubs, stock are all set up for an average player, high swing speed are going to produce a slice every driver head was very close, the shaft is what will get you into that 1.5 smash factor and what I found was the m1 and a Fuji speeder x stiff tour , 320 carry with a 1.52 smash factor was the best for me , I loved the feel and sound bombs away

  2. BP

    Feb 20, 2017 at 12:52 pm

    Will 2017 m1 adapter fit into 2016 m1 head?

  3. BP

    Feb 20, 2017 at 12:51 pm

    Will the new 2017 m1 adapter fit in to a 2016 m1 head?

  4. Square

    Dec 9, 2016 at 6:51 am

    I liked TM products years ago and then fell out of love during the R11-R1 season. The SLDR was the worst of the worst. Decided to try the M1 for kicks following a layoff after hand surgery. My numbers were sick with the M1. Purchased it last spring and after about 10 sessions at the range, experimenting with different settings and weight setting, I finally dialed it in. Truthfully, it’s the best driver I’ve ever had for me. I’ve hit some really long drives with it, but I like the consistency I get from the M1. I have the m1 3 wood too and it’s a freak show. I’ll give this one a whirl and compare the numbers but I can’t really see how they could make it better.

  5. KK

    Dec 8, 2016 at 11:45 pm

    M2 having a larger face and being most forgiving TM driver ever is very interesting. But that is likely bad for spin reduction.

  6. Speedy

    Dec 8, 2016 at 9:00 pm

    I’m dormant toward new ‘n improved claims, not to mention prices. $149 seems fair.

  7. Larry Fox

    Dec 8, 2016 at 6:01 pm

    I’m still hitting an r5!!!! Whats the big deal!

  8. BS Caller

    Dec 8, 2016 at 2:46 pm

    Biggest change is that Tiger is on the other end… To me these look like a black and white wing tip shoe….

  9. Et

    Dec 8, 2016 at 2:25 am

    We live in exciting times

  10. John Krug

    Dec 7, 2016 at 7:48 pm

    Waiting for the M3.

  11. Buford T Justice

    Dec 7, 2016 at 2:05 pm

    “The 12-gram front-back weight is 2.5 grams heavier than the 10-gram weight used in the original M1 driver”

    Math is hard.

  12. Smizzly

    Dec 7, 2016 at 11:35 am

    Golfwrx is in on the scam now…….

  13. Branson Reynolds

    Dec 7, 2016 at 10:55 am

    Doesn’t matter if they test like crap. GS Hot List is still gonna give them gold medals and 5 stars!

  14. Branson Reynolds

    Dec 7, 2016 at 10:53 am

    I can’t believe adidas wants to get rid of TM so badly. It’s not like they over-saturate or anything.

  15. TigerArmy

    Dec 7, 2016 at 4:38 am

    The Taylormade M1 and M2 reviews of Rick Shiels were a complete disaster compared to the 2015/16 models. Mark Crossfield didn’t get any clubs to review for dubious reasons. Taylormade has a lot to explain!

    • Leon

      Dec 7, 2016 at 10:30 am

      Hit the nail!! The 2017 M1 and M2 seem sound worse, feel worse, look worse, and perform worse. 12 important changes = a sucker club

    • Ben

      Dec 7, 2016 at 10:41 am

      Nothing to explain, Crossfield is unprofessional. About time IMO.

    • Brian

      Dec 7, 2016 at 3:23 pm

      Don’t know if it’s the club heads or Rick’s swing changes. I went back and re-watched his M1 reviews and he was getting 5mph more speed (116 vs. 111) with the original M1 model.

      I don’t care either way. I have the original M1, which is the best driver I’ve ever hit, and I won’t be changing any time soon.

  16. Cris

    Dec 7, 2016 at 2:10 am

    Why more draw bias across the spectrum? That’s a poor decision. Leave the draw bias in one of your products only. Gees.

  17. Tim

    Dec 7, 2016 at 12:52 am

    All kinds of bells and whistles on this new 2017 model…cool, oh but in 2018 it will still be obsolete…and guys that have a 15 handicap will still have a 15 handicap only be $400 lighter in the wallet….

    • Tony Rich

      Dec 7, 2016 at 1:54 am

      Agreed…..more draw bias when their clubs already duck hook? Tiger could’ve saved himself 6 strokes in the desert without the pull hook from his TM last week. These guys love to market their new driver…every 3 months.

      • Ummmm

        Dec 7, 2016 at 7:50 am

        Are people really still saying this crap?

        They haven’t had a new driver in a year and any pro can have any bia they want hotmelted away or added. Tiger hasn’t hit a driver straight in 10 years it’s not the clubs fault.

        Try educating yourself so you don’t look like a fool.

        • Tony Rich

          Dec 7, 2016 at 7:47 pm

          Ummmmm……go buy one then. You must be the guy who bought the M1 and M2 in 2016. M2, R15, RBZ, they all go the same distance and are just as crooked. Taylor Made should change their name to Waste Ur Pay.

      • Leon

        Dec 7, 2016 at 10:32 am

        Totally agreed. The M2 is just so easy to hook or pull the ball. But since 80% guys are fighting the slice, so you will rarely see anyone complain the hook.

      • Brian

        Dec 7, 2016 at 5:04 pm

        If you’re hitting duck hooks, you might want to take a lesson or two. Clubs don’t hit duck hooks, swings do.

  18. Boobsy McKiss

    Dec 7, 2016 at 12:37 am

    Some good looking drivers. Am curious just how much more forgiving the newer M2 is compared with last year, all other things aside.

  19. Jack

    Dec 6, 2016 at 9:13 pm

    No comments? Maybe cuz the webpage crashes when it’s trying to load. Does that on both my Chrome and Edge browsers. I had to stop the loading right after the text loads.

    • Frosty

      Dec 6, 2016 at 9:45 pm

      You should stop using a Windoze PC from 1998 with OS 4. Go make some money and buy yourself a real computer lmao

    • Rob

      Dec 7, 2016 at 9:32 am

      Simple fix…go upstairs tell your mom to reset the internet. Unplug…count to 10…plug back in. Then sit back and enjoy the comments!

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What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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