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This video includes a step-by-step guide and some some tips on how to safely and properly remove an adapter from a graphite golf shaft, along with the tools required. Leave your requests for more “how-to” club building tutorials in the comments below, or Tweet them @RDSBarath.

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Ryan Barath is a club-fitter & master club builder with more than 17 years of experience working with golfers of all skill levels, including PGA Tour players. He is the former Build Shop Manager & Social Media Coordinator for Modern Golf. He now works independently from his home shop and is a member of advisory panels to a select number of golf equipment manufacturers. You can find Ryan on Twitter and Instagram where he's always willing to chat golf, and share his passion for club building, course architecture and wedge grinding.

10 Comments

10 Comments

  1. alanp

    Nov 17, 2017 at 7:24 am

    yes i too was hoping that this was going to be gear for the diy’er. this video is preaching to the choir, ie if you have those tools, you know how to pull a shaft. want to make the “series” interesting? teach us guys at home how to do this with common tools. anyway thanks for posting the vid

  2. Shawn K

    Nov 16, 2017 at 11:47 pm

    Very easily done with a $400 shaft extractor. Lets see him do it with my $39 shaft extractor….not pretty but effective.

  3. Ross

    Nov 16, 2017 at 10:21 am

    Just remember to get the consent form signed before you try and pull the shaft or you’l lbe forced to apologize in 20 years!

  4. Darryl

    Nov 16, 2017 at 8:02 am

    OEM shafts don’t come off with so little heat in my experience.

    I use the “instant” epoxy (5 min set time) and you get nice smooth and easy pulls like that. What’s your opinion on the “weaker” epoxy option over the 24hr stuff Ryan? I just find it easier for building as you don’t have to be super careful with shaft orientation as it sets quick and avoids the overnight creep I sometimes see with 24hr epoxy.

    • Skip

      Nov 16, 2017 at 3:33 pm

      It does with a tip/adapter since they’re usually made of aluminum. the heat is conducted very quickly and the epoxy breaks down very quickly.

  5. CB

    Nov 15, 2017 at 6:26 pm

    I pull it with my teeth.
    You knew that comment was coming

  6. J1987F

    Nov 15, 2017 at 4:45 am

    Some of the ferrules on my irons have moved away from the hosel. Would you recommend this method, using a micro butane torch, to gently heat up the ferrules and move them back into the correct position?

    • Ryan B

      Nov 15, 2017 at 10:34 am

      for getting ferrules to move a torch will be too much. best bet is to just use a hair dryer

  7. chinchbugs

    Nov 14, 2017 at 4:00 pm

    Any suggestions if you don’t have a shaft puller?

    • Ryan B

      Nov 14, 2017 at 10:36 pm

      You can pull steel shafts without a puller but if the goal is to re-use the graphite shafts then you really need a decent shaft puller. There are value models that do a pretty good job its just clamping and setup takes a bit longer.

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Whats in the Bag

Steve Stricker WITB 2024 (April)

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Driver: Titleist TSR3 (9 degrees, C4 SureFit setting)
Shaft: Fujikura Motore Speeder VC 7.2 X

3-wood: Titleist 915F (13.5 degrees)
Shaft: Mitsubishi Tensei CK Pro White 80 TX

Hybrid: Titleist 816 H1 (17 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Motore Speeder VC 9.2 X

Irons: Titleist T200 (3, 4), Titleist T100 (5-9)
Shafts: Project X 6.5

Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM8 (46-10F @55), Titleist Vokey SM10 (54-10S @53), Titleist Vokey SM4 (60 @59)
Shafts: True Temper Dynamic Gold X100 w/Sensicore

Putter: Odyssey White Hot No. 2

Ball: Titleist Pro V1x

Grips: Golf Pride Tour Velvet Grip Rite

Check out more in-hand photos of Steve Stricker’s clubs here.

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Whats in the Bag

Alex Fitzpatrick WITB 2024 (April)

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  • Alex Fitzpatrick what’s in the bag accurate as of the Zurich Classic. 

Driver: Ping G430 LST (10.5 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Ventus Black 6 X

3-wood: TaylorMade Qi10 (15 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Ventus TR Black 7 X

Hybrid: Ping G430 (19 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Ventus Black HB 10 TX

Irons: Ping iCrossover (2), Titleist T100 (4-PW)
Shafts: Fujikura Ventus Black HB 9 TX (2), Nippon N.S. Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 X (4-9)

Wedges: Titleist Vokey Design SM10 (50-12F, 56-12D, 60-08M)
Shafts: Nippon N.S. Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 X

Putter: Bettinardi SS16 Dass

Grips: Golf Pride MCC

Check out more in-hand photos of Alex Fitzpatrick’s clubs here.

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Equipment

What’s the perfect mini-driver/shaft combo? – GolfWRXers discuss

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In our forums, our members have been discussing Mini-Drivers and accompanying shafts. WRXer ‘JamesFisher1990’ is about to purchase a BRNR Mini and is torn on what shaft weight to use, and our members have been sharing their thoughts and set ups in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • PARETO: “New BRNR at 13.5. Took it over to TXG (Club Champ but TXG will always rule) in Calgary for a fit. Took the head down to 12, stuck in a Graphite Design AD at 3 wood length and 60g. Presto- numbers that rivaled my G430Max but with waaaaay tighter dispersion. Win.”
  • driveandputtmachine: “Still playing a MIni 300.  The head was only 208, so I ordered a heavier weight and play it at 3 wood length.  I am playing a Ventus Red 70.   I play 70 grams in my fairways.  I use it mainly to hit draws off the tee.  When I combine me, a driver, and trying to hit a draw it does not work out well most of the time.  So the MIni is for that. As an aside, I have not hit the newest BRNR, but the previous model wasn’t great off the deck.  The 300 Mini is very good off the deck.”
  • JAM01: “Ok, just put the BRNR in the bag along side a QI10 max and a QI10 3 wood. A load of top end redundancy. But, I have several holes at my two home courses where the flight and accuracy of the mini driver helps immensely. Mine is stock Proforce 65 at 13.5, I could see a heavier shaft, but to normal flex, as a nice alternative.”

Entire Thread: “What’s the perfect Mini-Driver/Shaft combo? – GolfWRXers discuss”

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