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This video includes a step-by-step guide and some some tips on how to safely and properly remove an adapter from a graphite golf shaft, along with the tools required. Leave your requests for more “how-to” club building tutorials in the comments below, or Tweet them @RDSBarath.

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Ryan Barath is a club fitter and master club builder who has more than 15 years experience working with golfers of all skill levels, including PGA Tour professionals. He studied business and marketing at the Mohawk College in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, and is the former Build Shop Manager & Social Media Coordinator for Modern Golf located in Toronto. He now works independently from his home shop in Hamilton and is a member of advisory panels to a select number of golf equipment manufacturers, including True Temper. You can find Ryan on Twitter and Instagram where he's always willing to chat golf, from course architecture to physics, and share his passion for club building, and wedge grinding.



  1. alanp

    Nov 17, 2017 at 7:24 am

    yes i too was hoping that this was going to be gear for the diy’er. this video is preaching to the choir, ie if you have those tools, you know how to pull a shaft. want to make the “series” interesting? teach us guys at home how to do this with common tools. anyway thanks for posting the vid

  2. Shawn K

    Nov 16, 2017 at 11:47 pm

    Very easily done with a $400 shaft extractor. Lets see him do it with my $39 shaft extractor….not pretty but effective.

  3. Ross

    Nov 16, 2017 at 10:21 am

    Just remember to get the consent form signed before you try and pull the shaft or you’l lbe forced to apologize in 20 years!

  4. Darryl

    Nov 16, 2017 at 8:02 am

    OEM shafts don’t come off with so little heat in my experience.

    I use the “instant” epoxy (5 min set time) and you get nice smooth and easy pulls like that. What’s your opinion on the “weaker” epoxy option over the 24hr stuff Ryan? I just find it easier for building as you don’t have to be super careful with shaft orientation as it sets quick and avoids the overnight creep I sometimes see with 24hr epoxy.

    • Skip

      Nov 16, 2017 at 3:33 pm

      It does with a tip/adapter since they’re usually made of aluminum. the heat is conducted very quickly and the epoxy breaks down very quickly.

  5. CB

    Nov 15, 2017 at 6:26 pm

    I pull it with my teeth.
    You knew that comment was coming

  6. J1987F

    Nov 15, 2017 at 4:45 am

    Some of the ferrules on my irons have moved away from the hosel. Would you recommend this method, using a micro butane torch, to gently heat up the ferrules and move them back into the correct position?

    • Ryan B

      Nov 15, 2017 at 10:34 am

      for getting ferrules to move a torch will be too much. best bet is to just use a hair dryer

  7. chinchbugs

    Nov 14, 2017 at 4:00 pm

    Any suggestions if you don’t have a shaft puller?

    • Ryan B

      Nov 14, 2017 at 10:36 pm

      You can pull steel shafts without a puller but if the goal is to re-use the graphite shafts then you really need a decent shaft puller. There are value models that do a pretty good job its just clamping and setup takes a bit longer.

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In-hand photos of prototype Ping “Blueprint” irons



Our Johnny Wunder paid a visit to Ping HQ in Phoenix, and in addition to getting to step inside to company’s legendary gold putter vault, The Gear Dive host got an exclusive in-hand look at Ping’s new prototype Blueprint irons.

While we can’t provide any additional details at present, we do have these photos of a 6-iron for your viewing pleasure.

See what GolfWRX Members are saying about the irons in the forums. 

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Bargain Challenge: Putting together a set of clubs for $500



You have a golf trip planned in two weeks. One day after work, you head to your car to hit the range and get some grinding in for the trip. As you walk to your car you notice your car has been broken into and your clubs are gone. Not good. You need new clubs for the trip but aren’t in a position to shell out the $2,000-$3,000 for a brand new set. What are your options? I recommend hitting the used market.

Every year, thousands of used golf clubs go on the market. Some of the clubs had a rough life and some have barely been hit. As an exercise to see what you can get for your dollar, I browsed one of the web’s largest used golf equipment sites ( with a budget of $500 for a full set of clubs in my specs. What I found was really interesting.

Rules: 14 clubs for under $500 shipped. As close to my specs as possible.


Since I play a low loft driver with a low launch, low spin shaft, I knew I was in for a challenge with finding a driver. Once I took a minute to search, I found this beauty of a driver. I remember hitting the Ping G10 back in the day, and it was one of the most forgiving drivers at the time. Plus, it was very close to my specs at standard length, 7.5 degrees, and a mid-launch Grafalloy shaft.


While searching for a 3-wood, I had two things in mind, I needed a X-stiff shaft, and I needed it to be heavy. After about five minutes, I found this great Titleist 913 with a heavier X-stiff shaft. Normally I play a 13-degree 3-wood, and this 3-wood would allow me to loft it down to get the desired flight. Really a solid deal for $50.


In an ideal world, I’d be hitting a 2-iron or a driving iron here. The problem is that driving irons can sell for $100-plus fairly easily, so that was out of budget. After searching, I found a nice 17-degree hybrid from Ping with an X-stiff shaft. The shaft is a little lighter than I would like, but it is not a bad pick up for 80 bucks.


I knew I would want to spend the majority of my money on some solid irons. After searching, with the parameters being a 3-PW set with X100 shafts, I found this great Titleist combo set. I current play a MB/CB combo from another company, so this set fits well with what I am looking for if I was to replace my current set. All of this for $200.


Wedge shopping was hard because I needed a lob wedge with good grooves and a gap wedge that wasn’t trash. I got really lucky with the Ping lob wedge. It is in very good condition which is really what matters for the grooves since I will be using it greenside. Since it is blue dot, I can get it sent to ping to be adjusted for my specs. For the gap wedge, I picked up a heavily used 52-degree. Ideally, I would have more money for a slightly better grooved GW.


Can’t go wrong with a White Hot in my preferred length. Not much more to say.



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Forum Thread of the Day: “Is it easier to hit players irons?”



Today’s Forum Thread of the Day was created by lazyjc4, who asks fellow GolfWRX members for their opinion on what they feel are some of the easiest to hit players irons on the market. Our members have mentioned a multitude of players irons, with plenty of detailed reasoning behind their choices.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • thewral: “New Level 902. Single piece forging, feel great, smallish head, low offset, distance lofts.”
  • naj959: “I went through a couple of sets of irons this year which included 765s, flyz+, and finally settled on the…..Bridgestone J15 DPF. There are some great reviews of these irons. The 765s are forgiving, but the j15s are even more so. They have a very thin top line, are workable, and are lonnnng.”
  • Casper_golf: “Take a good look at the Wilson V6, or if you are looking for something older, guys really like the V4’s that can be found as a steal.  Way underrated irons. Soft feel forgiving and long for the weaker lofts they have. No offset.”
  • Sonja Henie: “Very interested in the comment about the 745s being similar to the 545s in forgiveness.  I’ve been very tempted by the 565s but might do better with the 765s.”

Entire Thread: “Easier to hit players irons?”

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