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Scotty Cameron Futura X5 and X5R Putters



Oversized putters were once a rarity in professional golf, but not anymore. These days, they’ve become the norm, with as many as 50 percent of PGA Tour players using them each week on Tour.

Scotty Cameron’s new Futura X5 and X5R are a result of the increased demand for larger putters by the world’s best players.

“The Futura X5 mallet is for someone who likes the stability of a bigger head, the feel of a bigger grip and likes to look down and see more lines for alignment purposes,” Cameron said. “X5 is more of a mechanical shape where the X5R is a softer, rounder shape. There’s no right or wrong. Same performance, same weight, same feel. It all depends on what you like to look at.”

Futura X5


 Futura X5R


Both putters have a multi-material design that includes a 303 Stainless Steel body and a 6061 aluminum sole plate. The use of aluminum extends into the “wings” of the putters and allowed Cameron to move weight to their extreme perimeter. That improves a putter’s stability and resistance to twisting.

And there’s another, not-so-hidden benefit to larger putters.

“The bigger the head, the more lines you can add for alignment,” Cameron said. “We worked with many players on tour and in the Putter Studio during the development of X5 and they all told us the same thing: It adds confidence.”

Futura X5


Futura X5R



The X5 and X5R putters also have single-bend shafts with a higher bend point that make them face-balanced.

“The single bend came from taking feedback from the tour and working with players in the Studio. Double bends have been around for years and for X5 we really wanted to clean up the look,” Cameron said. “We had many players say they wished that the shaft leaned at their target or on their line, so we worked to find the proper offset and lean of the shaft so, at address, the bend lines up pointing right at your target. That was a key one because the mechanical-industrial shape of the head and the clean mechanical-industrial bend match perfectly. What I didn’t want was a heavy, flowing bend onto a mechanical head.”

Each model has a 10-inch Matador Red Midsize grip that weighs 77 grams.

“The grip can complement or kill the design of the putter,” Cameron said. “I know that sounds strange, but grips make a difference. With blades, it’s a little more handsy, a little more flowing, a little more feel. With Futura X putters, it’s a little more robotic, a little more square-to-square and this larger Matador grip complements the head very well.”

The Futura X5 and X5R putters ($349) will be in stores on Oct. 31. They both have Cameron’s Silver Mist finish are are available in lengths of 33, 34 and 35 inches. For lefties, the X5 is available in lengths of 33, 34 and 35 inches.

Click here to see in-hand photos of the Futura X5 and X5R from the PGA Tour.

Futura X5 Dual Balance


A Futura X5 Dual Balance ($399) will also be available on Oct. 31. It has an extra 50-gram weight located under its aluminum sole plate, which is counterbalanced with a 50-gram weight in its 15-inch grip that can help smooth out certain golfer’s strokes.

Stock length is 38 inches, but lengths of 36-to-40 inches in 0.5-inch increments are available by custom order.

Click here to see in-hand photos of the Futura X5 and X5R from the PGA Tour.

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  1. j T

    Jan 20, 2015 at 10:39 pm

    I have every top line putter ever sold seriously and played them all but folks when you put a scotty in your hand you know it the feelins is totally exhilarating I would describe it as getting out boy a vega in to a Cadillac

  2. DBN

    Dec 18, 2014 at 4:11 pm

    Umm why doesn’t everyone keep there opinions are so valuable since none of them are on tour. Lets get some responses to those who have actually tried the putter!! Tried it and loved it!! can’t beat a scotty and the way the ball releases off the face!!

  3. Rich

    Oct 16, 2014 at 5:15 pm

    Yes the design is copied but as stated a few times below, it happens all the time in this industry. I think they are beautiful putter and from reading the article attached, it would seem at least there has been some thought go into the finer detail of these putter. I’m looking forward to seeing what they are like in hand.

  4. dko

    Oct 16, 2014 at 10:53 am

    I wish, I wish, I wish … I could afford a Scotty Cameron putter.

  5. TT X

    Oct 15, 2014 at 3:33 pm

    He copied an Odyssey and the Yes Sandy which is more round on the wings. The Odyssey was well before the YES which was 2012. Callie is an Anser style and Tracy has an Anser body but a double bend face balanced shaft. No hosel.

    • Kmac

      Oct 15, 2014 at 6:43 pm

      Who cares? He makes great putters. They mass produce.

      • TT X

        Oct 15, 2014 at 8:24 pm

        Didn’t say he doesn’t make great product, simply stating the facts as they are.

        • JB

          Oct 16, 2014 at 1:44 am

          All this nonsense about who copied who. Are we 12? Who cares, IMO. If it makes me a better putter, copy it from Tommy Armour for all I care.

          • Don Koo

            Oct 16, 2014 at 10:51 am

            Yup. Well said. EVERYTHING on the market today is a variation of something already there.

          • TT X

            Oct 16, 2014 at 11:32 am

            As long as the designer is compensated it shouldn’t matter copied who.

  6. Jeff

    Oct 15, 2014 at 3:24 pm

    I think the odyssey #7’s popularity came from the Yes! Tom Watson used in almost winning the 2009 Open Championship. So it’s not really surprising to see the design make the rounds.

  7. Kevin

    Oct 15, 2014 at 2:25 pm

    Any idea why they didn’t make the face deep milled like the Select line?

    • JB

      Oct 16, 2014 at 1:46 am

      I was wondering the same thing. Wonder if the deep mill didn’t really benefit that big of head?

  8. Tom D

    Oct 15, 2014 at 10:53 am

    Should’ve named the X7, since they are obviously the Odyssey #7 shape.

  9. Will

    Oct 15, 2014 at 10:39 am

    Yes, this putter looks very similar to the odyssey #7 or sabertooth. But for those of you complaining about the similarities I hope you also complain about any anser/Newport style putter from Odyssey, Taylormade, Cleveland, see more etc as those are just a copy of the original Ping anser.

    I have used an odyssey #7 for years now but I’m looking forward to a deep milled version.

  10. GR

    Oct 15, 2014 at 10:35 am

    Zac, thanks for your articles and information. They are very helpful.

    I do have a question though. Due to a tendency toward pulling putts, I have changed to center shafted mallets with a more straight back and forth putting stroke. However, I see mostly heel shafted (like the Futura outlined). More than likely it is a demand issue. What is the % of pros and/or golfers that use the center shafted putters? Any recommendations? Thanks.

    • Zak Kozuchowski

      Oct 15, 2014 at 10:56 am

      Center-shafted putters are rare on tour, but some players swear by them. It’s all about preference and confidence.

      I used to play a center-shafted mallet as well, but I’ve since switched to a heel-shafted mallet after I saw that I got better numbers with those models on a SAM PuttLab. If there’s a SAM in your area, I’d recommend that you try it. Otherwise, guess and check is a great process.

      And if your putter is working for you, why switch?

      Thanks for reading, GR.

  11. Food

    Oct 15, 2014 at 9:58 am

    Gimme some seed, I’ll go till the field with these and feed the world with the food I can grow

  12. Baka

    Oct 15, 2014 at 9:51 am

    Blatant copy of Odyssey Tank Cruiser and Versa #7 putters. At Titleist, we don’t innovate we imitate.

    • Joe W

      Oct 15, 2014 at 10:18 am

      everyone copies everyone for the most part. they just add their little/tiny differences to the mock up.

      • Lane

        Oct 15, 2014 at 1:06 pm

        True, but I think the Cameron X5 looks better than its predecessors. IMO, it’s imitated AND improved.

    • t-ball

      Oct 15, 2014 at 10:46 am

      If we want to blame Scotty for copying, we have to blame Odyssey too ! I think the first version of this style head was a YES Callie. Plus, you really can’t compare a plastic insert to a deep-milled face.

      • Jeff

        Oct 15, 2014 at 3:20 pm

        Tracy. Callie’s a blade.

        • Rich

          Oct 16, 2014 at 5:09 pm

          Tracy is a blade too. Tracy was a face balanced blade and Tracy II was a short slant neck blade.

  13. JB

    Oct 15, 2014 at 9:48 am

    This just made my day! Counting down the days!!

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What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”




In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″


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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”



In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters



It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.


I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.




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