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Wishon: The practical facts about spin and shaft design



It is a great education as a clubhead and shaft designer to scan through GolfWRX forum posts to listen to what golfers think about their equipment. One of the areas that seems to have developed momentum on GolfWRX is how many golfers react to a backspin measurement on a launch monitor. They try to find a shaft that can enable them to get their spin number lower without first taking the time to determine if they do in fact have a spin problem.

Here are the facts I’ve learned about driver spin in my career, in which I’ve spent countless hours designing clubheads, shafts and fitting golfers.

  • Spin outputs from some launch monitors can be inaccurate and inconsistent 

Only the TrackMan and FlightScope launch monitors have the ability to read the amount of backspin on a shot with reasonable accuracy.  Other launch monitors use various means of pickup (camera, ultrasonic, laser, etc) which simply cannot record spin with a reasonable level of accuracy ore repeatability.  Some just simply calculate the spin from the golfer’s ball speed!

Accurate backspin measurement on a golf shot is a highly complex operation.  The output for spin is in revolutions per MINUTE.  Yet a launch monitor has only a fraction of a second in which to measure how much the ball is spinning upon leaving the clubface. This means with every launch monitor, a math calculation has to be incorporated with the amount of spin “seen” in a fraction of a second to come up with the RPM measurement.

During the time the other launch monitors actually “see” the ball spin, the ball does not even complete one full revolution.  Therefore, the spin recognition means has to very accurately measure how much the ball actually rotated during the time it was being “seen.” If the device misses the amount of revolution by say, 10 degrees out of a full 360 degree rotation, by the time the math calculation is done to output an rpm measurement, the final spin measurement can be way off.

Click here for more discussion in the “Clubmaking” forum.

TrackMan and Flight Scope use phase array pulsing Doppler radar to measure spin. Both units shoot a radar beam at the ball from behind, and thus are able to pick up data from the ball’s movement for several feet after impact.  This is in comparison to a camera based system which only sees the ball over a couple of inches after takeoff, and explains why the TrackMan and FlightScope launch monitors are more accurate in their spin measurement.

  • Most golfers hit range balls on a launch monitors, not premium balls

When is the last time you hit premium quality golf balls on a launch monitor? The majority of operations use range balls with their launch monitor analysis.

Most range balls are one-piece and rarely have similar spin characteristics to the premium balls that golfers typically use when they play. Range balls also suffer more wear from getting hit a lot more times than premium balls. Add it all up and it is nearly impossible for a golfer to try to make valid conclusions about their spin measurements when hitting worn range balls on launch monitors that do not have the ability to accurately measure backspin.

There most definitely is a difference in spin between different models of premium golf balls. To get the most accurate and valid spin measurement for each golfer’s game, it only makes sense to use the ball you typically play and do it with either a TrackMan or Flight Scope launch monitor.

  • The best way to determine if you have a spin problem is to observe the flight of the ball, not by reading the spin output from a launch monitor

Just because a tour player’s driver spin is in the low 2000-rpm range does not mean that if yours isn’t, you have a spin problem that is harming your game. The optimum amount of spin for each golfer differs depending on clubhead speed and angle of attack.  The slower the clubhead speed, the more spin is needed to generate enough lift under the ball to help keep it in the air to carry farther. Likewise, the higher the clubhead speed and ball speed, the less spin is needed to generate enough lift under the ball to help keep it in the air to carry farther.

The following are data charts from TrackMan that show their findings for what are the optimum driver launch parameters are for different combinations of clubhead speed and angle of attack. From TrackMan’s research, it is easy to see that spin has to increase as clubhead speed slows and the angle of attack is more downward.  Charts are offered for optimum CARRY distance as well as for optimum TOTAL DISTANCE as per the conditions of the fairways and their conduciveness to more or less roll of the ball after landing.

TrackMan Page 1 TrackMan Page 23


Whether a golfer has too much backspin for his clubhead speed and angle of attack depends on the ball flight shape as the ball flies through the air. More serious, higher ball speed golfers need to learn how to visually identify what a shot hit with too much spin looks like rather than to make conclusions based only on a launch monitor measurement.

For shots hit with too much spin, the ball typically curves rapidly upward to a higher apex in flight, after which the ball seems to hang for a little moment at the peak of its apex and then fall more steeply to the ground. From a side view, an exaggerated graphic of the flight shape of the excessive spin shot looks somewhat like this:

Screen Shot 2013-01-11 at 11.09.44 AM

A more preferred driver ball flight shape would look more like this:

Screen Shot 2013-01-11 at 11.09.56 AM

There is nothing wrong with hitting the driver high, as long as the angle of descent of the ball to the ground is less than 40 degrees.

Screen Shot 2013-01-11 at 11.09.56 AM 1

TrackMan and FlightScope have features that allow you to see the flight shape of every shot.  Because they pulse the ball continually in flight from takeoff to landing and roll, its graphic rendition of the shot is accurate. This too can be a valid way to determine if your ball flight shape indicates that you hit the ball with too much spin for your clubhead speed and angle of attack.

Click here for more discussion in the “Clubmaking” forum.

Bottom Line: Learn to watch the flight of your shots and make conclusions about spin results from what you see before you make conclusions from what the launch monitor outputs for a spin number.

  • The vast majority of excessive spin situations are caused by swing errors far more than from playing the wrong equipment, and are more often cured by changes in swing technique more effectively than from changes in equipment.

What causes the excessive spin shot?  From our research and fitting observations, the two most predominant swing errors that result in excessive spin are:

  1. A downward angle of attack into the ball with the driver which requires the golfer to use more loft to achieve their optimum launch angle, which in turn increases spin.
  2. A breakdown of the wrist of the upper hand on the grip coming into impact which allows the clubhead to pass in front of the hands before impact, thus greatly increasing the dynamic loft of the clubhead and increasing spin and launch angle along with it.

The equipment change that can more effectively and more dramatically reduce higher spin caused by either one of these swing errors is a lower the loft on the clubhead.  However, in the first case of the downward angle of attack, lower loft, is not really a good solution because it lowers the launch angle as well. Of the two, launch angle and spin, it is FAR better to achieve the right launch angle for the golfer’s clubhead speed and angle of attack than it is to lower the spin.

In the second case of the clubhead passing the hands to cause the high flight, high spin shot, lower loft certainly helps reduce the problem. However, it is also true that you can only lower loft so much. Rarely will you find a 6-degree or 5-degree loft driver. At the end of the day, a golfer is much better off making the effort to get rid of the higher spin/higher launch by taking lessons to improve his angle of attack or his hand-to-clubhead position at impact.

  • What is a low launch/low spin or high launch/high spin shaft? 

Seriously, if I had a dollar for every time I have read, heard or been asked this question, I could pay for a really nice golf vacation! If you want to know the REAL ANSWER to this question, here it is:

Any shaft that is stiffer overall or is more tip stiff than what you currently play is a lower launch shaft, while any shaft that is more flexible or more tip flexible than what you play is a higher launch shaft. In short, because the golf swing controls everything with regard to the performance of a shaft, what is a lower launch/spin shaft to one golfer can be a higher launch/spin to another golfer and vice versa.

As I have written many times, a shaft ONLY acts to change launch angle and spin for golfers who have a late unhinging of the wrist cock angle during the downswing. So the higher your clubhead speed and the later you release the club, the more you can force the shaft to be flexed forward at impact, which in turn increases the dynamic loft of the clubhead to increase launch angle and spin.

So the stiffer the shaft and/or more tip stiff the shaft in relation to your clubhead speed and point of release, the less the shaft bends forward at impact and the more that shaft becomes a lower launch and lower spin shaft. Conversely, the more flexible and/or more tip flexible the shaft is in relation to your clubhead speed and point of release, the more the shaft can bend forward at impact to generate a little higher launch/higher spin shot.

I’m sorry to tell you this, but the ONLY way you will ever know if a shaft is going to be a lower or higher launch/spin shaft than what you play is to see and compare the full stiffness measurements of the shafts using something like my company’s TWGT Shaft Bend Profile Software. Many of you have seen graph and data chart images from this program that I have posted on WRX to explain the stiffness and performance and feel differences between shafts.

Click here for more discussion in the “Clubmaking” forum.

Below is an example graph and data chart from the TWGT Bend Profile Software. The following chart shows shafts for a golfer with a 100 mph driver clubhead speed who has an average transition/tempo force and a late release. The shafts are listed from top to bottom in the chart for highest to lowest launch/lowest spin characteristics so that you can see how the tip stiffness of the shafts becomes the key element for offering a progressive lowering of the launch and spin for the same driver head.

Screen Shot 2013-01-11 at 11.20.14 AM

In the above bend profile graph, the stiffness of all seven shafts in the butt-to-center areas is close enough that all seven could be rated for a golfer with a 100 to 105 mph driver clubhead speed with an average transition force and average tempo.

The measurements for the 21/16/11 are the tip section stiffness measurements. From top to bottom, you’ll see the tip stiffness become progressively stiffer and stiffer. Thus, among these shafts, for a golfer with a 100 to 105 mph driver clubhead speed with an average transition and tempo force, the UST HTD CB85-R will hit the ball the highest with the greatest spin. Then for each shaft that follows, this same example golfer would see a very gradual lowering of the launch angle and spin due to the increase in tip stiffness, while the butt-to-center stiffness remains the same for each shaft.

Now let’s say the 100 to 105 mph golfer with an average transition force and late release was using a Kusala Indigo 61-X, and he complained of hitting the ball with too much spin and wanted a recommendation for a low spin shaft to reduce his spin. Among these shafts, the only one that could even qualify is the Vista Tour 60-X because its tip section is stiffer. However, based on these tip stiffness measurements, the Vista Tour 60-X is only a little more tip stiff than the Kusala Indigo 61-X. The golfer using the Kusala Indigo 61-X probably would not see much of a change in launch or spin because the Kusala is already a very tip stiff shaft.

In reality, if a golfer using such a tip stiff shaft as the Kusala Indigo 61-X complains of too much spin, you could probably bet the farm that if he does in fact have a spin problem, it is because of a swing error and not an equipment deficiency.

Click here for more discussion in the “Clubmaking” forum.

Hard data like the above graph and measurement chart is how spin characteristics of shafts have to be analyzed. Anything else is a pure guessing game.

  • Is there such a thing as a high launch/low spin or low launch/high spin shaft?

To make this easy, the answer is without question is NO, it is impossible to make such a shaft because of the different ways different golf swings cause the shaft to bend. No, nada, nil, cannot be done. Period.

The later the unhinging of the wrist cock angle and the higher the clubhead speed, the more the shaft can arrive at impact flexed forward. The more the shaft flexes forward, the more the dynamic loft of the clubhead is increased. The more the dynamic loft of the head is increased, the higher the launch angle AND the higher the spin will be for the shot.

Since it is the forward bending of the shaft that influences the dynamic loft at impact, and since dynamic loft at impact controls BOTH launch angle and spin in the same way, it is impossible to create a shaft that is either high launch/low spin or low launch/high spin.

Conclusion and Key Points

  1. Be more concerned about finding the driver and shaft combination that achieves your absolutely optimum launch angle and ball speed before you worry about spin. Stop obsessing about the spin number coming from the launch monitor. Please take the time to carefully analyze the ball flight shape of your shots before you make any conclusions about whether you have a “too much spin” problem.
  2. You never want to choose a shaft with a stiffness and/or tip stiffness design that either feels too stiff or too flexible for your individual preference for the bending feel of the shaft.
  3. The No. 1 way to change the amount of spin and trajectory on a shot is to change the loft of the clubhead. No. 2 is to change the ball design. No. 3 is to change the shaft’s stiffness and/or tip stiffness design, but remember; a shaft that affect a change on spin only works for players with a later and later release.
  4. If you truly do have a “too much spin” problem as proven by a valid, accurate observation of the flight of the ball, first check to see if you have a downward angle of attack or if you are allowing the clubhead to pass the hands before impact.  If you do either one of these things in your swing, take lessons and practice hard to change these swing errors — do not buy a new club or shaft.

If you cannot overcome the swing error causing your too much spin problem, find a lower loft to help you reduce spin. If you cannot overcome the swing error causing your too much spin problem and the shaft you have fits your swing speed, transition/tempo force, point of release and preference for feel, don’t go shaft hunting to try to lower the spin on your shots. It will either have little to no effect you’ll like end up with a shaft that feels and plays too stiff.

Click here for more discussion in the “Clubmaking” forum.


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Tom Wishon is a 40-year veteran of the golf equipment industry specializing in club head design, shaft performance analysis and club fitting research and development. He has been responsible for more than 50 different club head design firsts in his design career, including the first adjustable hosel device, as well as the first 0.830 COR fairway woods, hybrids and irons. GolfWRX Writer of the Month: February 2014 Tom served as a member of the Golf Digest Technical Advisory Panel, and has written several books on golf equipment including "The Search for the Perfect Golf Club" and "The Search for the Perfect Driver," which were selected as back-to-back winners of the 2006 and 2007 Golf Book of the Year by the International Network of Golf (ING), the largest organization of golf industry media professionals in the USA. He continues to teach and share his wealth of knowledge in custom club fitting through his latest book, "Common Sense Clubfitting: The Wishon Method," written for golf professionals and club makers to learn the latest techniques in accurate custom club fitting. Tom currently heads his own company, Tom Wishon Golf Technology, which specializes in the design of original, high-end custom golf equipment designs and club fitting research for independent custom club makers worldwide Click here to visit his site,



  1. Geoff the Aussie

    Apr 14, 2016 at 11:08 am

    This is one of the clearest explanations of how and all of these variables interact that I have read. Outstanding, truly. Just don’t let my wife read it, as she may realise just how much money I have wasted chasing smoke!

  2. Nathan L

    Jun 22, 2015 at 9:35 pm

    Reading this I had a novel thought, a theory, namely: we have all already seen our best drive. What I mean is that if someone hits 1000 balls at their swing speed, their scatter plot of data generated will somewhere approach the optimal angle of attack AND dynamic loft. This is all we can really control on a given day. Of course you do want to be able to find that sweet zone with a natural swing, but I don’t think a new driver can produce a shocking new distance, just shocking new consistency. That’s the holy grail. And of course we can work on the long term goal of higher swing speed.

  3. Pingback: The Ideal of "High Launch/Low Spin" - Green Lantern Golf

  4. Jamie

    Nov 14, 2014 at 10:02 am

    Tom, great article bi take one exception early in your writing about “the only” accurate launch monitors are Trackman and Flightscope. Foresight’s GC2 w/HMT unit is every bit as accurate as those. I have one and have used it side by side to Trackman and in some cases the readings were more reflective of the actual ball flight seen versus recorded. I think you should add Foresight to your list.

  5. Pingback: Driver Shaft | bweisbecker

  6. Joe Golfer

    Feb 22, 2014 at 12:02 am

    Always enjoy reading Tom Wishon’s articles.
    They are teaching tools.
    They are also very informative for making decisions when it comes to new equipment.

  7. Twister

    Apr 5, 2013 at 8:28 pm

    You forgot torque. The impact of the ball on the club face (at distance y from the center of the shaft axis) applies a torque force to the shaft about its vertical axis. The degree to which the head rotates away from the ball in an attempt to relieve that force will also impact launch and spin. In some cases, quite a material impact.

    • RC

      Apr 22, 2013 at 8:17 pm

      False. The ball is gone before the head starts to twist any appreciable amount. The “torque” of a shaft relates to how that twisting will affect the feel of the club.

      • Gilly

        May 14, 2013 at 3:34 am

        Wrong. It IS possible that the shaft twist RIGHT AT IMPACT with the ball causing the LARGE driver heads to twist away and therefore applying spin in various ways not wanting by the hitter. That is a part of the MOI (moment of inertia).

  8. RC

    Mar 8, 2013 at 3:09 pm

    A DOWNWARD ANGLE OF ATTACK DOES NOT LEAD TO INCREASED SPIN! That statement drives me insane, especially when made by someone who should know better. The other point that bothered me was that, a golfer should ignore spin and pay attention ball speed and launch angle…WTF? Thats like saying ” To make bread, leave the yeast out. Focus instead on the water.” The rest of the article is good though.

    • Dugan

      May 17, 2013 at 5:30 pm

      @RC. Ofcourse angle of attack has a direct effect on backspin! Even me being a 12 capper knows that. Perfect example would be with a wedge shot, a person who sweeps the ball will have about 5-10 feet of rollout when it hits the green. A person who hits down on the ball will usually bounce once and stop or bounce and spin back a little.

      • Socalpro517

        Feb 7, 2014 at 11:15 pm

        Angle of attack is technically only half the equation. Say you “sweep” a 0 angle of attack with a dynamic loft of 47 degrees the ball will actually spin the same as if you had a -5 attack which in turn would most likely involve lowering your dynamic loft 5 degrees to match, thus taking an identical spin number and only aiming it 5 degrees lower. Hitting down on the ball DOES NOT produce more backspin. Unless the dynamic loft is maintained or increased, which rarely happens.

    • KK

      Aug 26, 2016 at 5:53 pm

      Are you saying the Trackman data should know better? Anyone who’s played ping pong, tennis or volleyball knows a downward aoa increases spin. Too bad not everyone who plays golf knows.

  9. Thomas Nevue

    Feb 20, 2013 at 8:53 am

    Great article, whatever to the haters, you know what your talking about and are one of the reasons I refer to this site daily to learn all that I can to improve as I practice.

  10. Cmac

    Feb 19, 2013 at 9:30 pm

    This is great info…becoming a good golfer is a balance of knowing and doing…you better believe good golfers know exactly how their equipment is supposed to behave relative to their swing for any given shot.

  11. Joe

    Jan 17, 2013 at 12:28 am

    Once again, excellent article. Kudos to you, Tom Wishon.
    I always really enjoy the technical articles you write, so thanks for taking the time to inform those of us with an interest in how these factors affect the shaft and swing, etc.

  12. GW

    Jan 15, 2013 at 12:09 pm

    I’ve heard a certain golf instructor on a major network describe still photos of a swing where the shaft appears to flex forward as “impossible.” Am I right in reading the article, that it IS possible and may contribute to higher launch, etc.

    • John

      Jan 15, 2013 at 1:39 pm

      The shaft flexes forward during the downswing for every golfer in the world, no matter what their club head speed… It’s physics and with this great emphasis on club head speed we should have already understood that the club head is moving faster than the hands which creates a “backward bend” in the shaft

      • Joe

        Jan 17, 2013 at 12:19 am

        Yes that’s true, John.
        Tom Wishon has written three previous articles about the shaft prior to this one, and one of them explains that facet very well.
        But the head isn’t necessarily leading the hands at impact.
        In a good swing, it is, as the player has a late release of the hands. But if a player has an early release, the club shaft has done all of its’ bending before getting to the ball, and is essentially straightened out at impact.
        If you don’t believe me, check out Wishon’s previous article which explains it all in superb detail.

    • Joe

      Jan 17, 2013 at 12:38 am

      Tom Wishon has written a previous article about shafts that describes this aspect. Look at Tom’s other articles and it will be explained to you in terms that are understandable.
      On the right side of the page, you can see his name listed under the “Featured Writers” section.
      See the article entitled “Facts about Shafts-What they do (Part 3).
      It will explain the “forward bend” of the shaft for you.

  13. OG

    Jan 14, 2013 at 1:38 pm

    Yeah it’s good stuff but how do you tell an ego-maniacal golfer that he’s got a SWING ERROR in a nice way without getting him all fired up? LOL hahaha hehehe

    • Jim

      Feb 7, 2017 at 6:55 pm

      If you’re fitting them, and think it’s something thay if they did fix or ‘manage’ better it could affect the fitting – and you think they’re (say) skilled or serious enough to listen and agree that they’d ‘want to try and fix it’, show them on high speed video….Getting the best FLEX & tip stiffness depends more on how much a person uses their hands and ‘cracks the whip”, accelerating into AND through impact more so than raw swing speed….

      I’ve had more than a few ‘super seniors’ with not a lot of flexibility or ROM – but had physically strong hands – generate the bulk of their clubhead speed with their hands. While the numbers were <80, these (type of) cats all ended up in stiff shafts (not high flex or 'real' stiff S) but R flex resulted in excess hooks & many times low-on-the-face impact. A few ended up with 'stout' or tipped R flex.

      always look at their mechanics, and someone's capability to improve and point it out (delicately if required)….I don't want someone fixing their messed up release with two or three months of lessons/hard work and 'growing out of' the $750-1200 custom driver I fit them for.

      I'm honest with them regardless of their inital 'tude…By booking my time, they've accepted me as the expert, and it is a significant imvestment they're making – fitting fee included! I ask in their basic interview what's the goal? Will they/are they takin lessons – etc….politely showing even the biggest knob on high speed HD video he's releasing the clubhead from his trail-side hip pocket (and losing a butt load of speed) is why Trackman says 93 and not 110, and no, he doesn't need an 8.5 is then usually understood and appreciated.

      Look for bonded drivers making a 'comeback' (high-end too – not just 'baseline' models) Getting more actual loft on the face and controlling flight with the shaft is the way to go…. "PERSONALLY" I feel opening/closing an adjustable head to affect loft means there's an EXTRA couple slices/hooks lurking about waiting to sneak in….

      PS….TO REALLY APPRECIATE Tom, you need to see him in action at a large forum (say PGA show) where a bunch of 'experts" from all the big OEM's are on a stage and you can see the fear in their faces when one of the roaming microphone folks gets within 20 feet of him….you can see them or their assistants on side of the stage try to 'head steer' – or eye 'wave em away' from that 'crazy guy' trying to ask a question….It's pretty funny to watch em squirm when he does get to ask something about their "latest n greatest" equipment 😉

  14. Ken

    Jan 12, 2013 at 9:00 pm

    “Is there such a thing as a high launch/low spin or low launch/high spin shaft?

    To make this easy, the answer is without question is NO, it is impossible to make such a shaft because of the different ways different golf swings cause the shaft to bend. No, nada, nil, cannot be done. Period.”

    im pretty sure they do make a high launch low spin shaft.

    (EDIT: Shaft company listed and need a sponsorship to advertise)

    • Blanco

      Jan 12, 2013 at 9:27 pm

      If you read the article and understood it, you’d realize that those are marketing terms… marketing is what helps you come to terms with the several hundred dollars you spent on a piece of painted graphite.

  15. Ste D

    Jan 12, 2013 at 9:44 am

    The spin rate on my 10 degree driver with a regular shaft and 95mph club speed was 11000!!!!! I carry about 220yds+. Think I need to change something!! Any recommendations??

    • Gerry

      Mar 11, 2013 at 9:50 am

      I would say take lessons, I’m 155 pounds 5’11”, 4.2 handicap with about 40 games a year. I can crank my driver 310 at times(average about 280). Its all in your backswing/wind up, then transferring the weight forward properly.
      Proper balance is key! Finish with your knees touching. Light grip, like a 4 at setup. Should get to about an 8 when actually swinging the club. Let the club do the work. Follow through, finishing with the club behind your head; parallel to your ears.
      Visualize your shot, PLAY YOUR MISSES. if you fade it, then play your fade.. And one of the best things you can do is know the carry of your club… not just the distances.. so if you hit your 9 iron 135ish your carry will be like 128…

  16. tlmck

    Jan 12, 2013 at 9:06 am

    Excellent article.

  17. johnny

    Jan 12, 2013 at 3:42 am

    This site golfwrx, stated out with great intentions but you are giving way to much information to 15 handicaps, 5’s for that matter. I Give the technical stuff a rest and let the club fitters handle it. If i have one me guy tel me his specs as a 22 handicapl ill emplode. ” i need a diet with an x at y degrees and 3 * open,,arrghhhhh.

  18. Rufiolegacy

    Jan 12, 2013 at 12:26 am

    Solid read, I wish I could just print this out and hand it to customers when they ask for shaft recommendations lol

  19. Kevin

    Jan 11, 2013 at 6:58 pm

    Too many golfers buy driver after driver, get a great shaft for your swing and the results are unreal. Pretty similar in cost (Shaft and a new Driver that is).

  20. yo!

    Jan 11, 2013 at 5:06 pm

    good stuff

    • W. Scott

      Feb 16, 2014 at 11:52 am

      I really trust this author. This should be extremely valuable to an old guy like me if I could just afford to get a trackman fitting by a person that understands it all!

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A Deep Dive: The equipment timeline of David Duval, 1993-2001



Like Tiger, David Toms, and Fred Couples there are certain players that I have been obsessed with for years. If you go to my Instagram, you can see it in plain sight. When it comes to DD it was more than the what, it was the why, the how that sparked my curiosity. Let’s face it, in 2000 with the Mossimo gear, Oakley shades, jacked-up physique, and on Titleist staff, was there ever a cooler looking player?

No. There wasn’t or isn’t.

That’s where my interest in Larry Bobka came about. I saw David and Larry walking the fairways of Sahalee at the ’98 PGA Championship.

At the time, I was already knee-deep in David Duval fandom but that experience took me over the top. Bobka had a handful of clubs in his hands and would pass DD a 970 3-wood, Duval would give it a rip and the two would discuss while walking down the fairway. Of all my time watching live golf, I have never been so awestruck.

This is an homage to David’s equipment during his prime/healthy years on the PGA Tour. From his early days with Mizuno, into the Titleist days, and finally Nike.

1993-1995 Mizuno

*This was an interesting time for Duval from an equipment standpoint. The pattern of mixing sets to put together his bag began and it was the time he transitioned from persimmon (Wood Bros driver) into metal woods. It was also the beginning of his long relationship with Scotty Cameron, a relationship that still stands today.

What was in the bag

Driver: TaylorMade Tour Burner 8.5 w/ Dynamic Gold X100 (*he also played with the Bubble XHKP Prototype)


King Cobra @14 w/ Dynamic Gold X100

TaylorMade Tour Issue Spoon @13  w/ Dynamic Gold X100


1993: (1) Ping Eye2, (3-PW) Mizuno Pro TN-87 with Dynamic Gold X100

1994: (1) Ping Eye2, (3-PW) Mizuno Pro TN-87 with Dynamic Gold X100

1995: (2,3) Mizuno TC-29, (4-PW) Mizuno TN-87 with Dynamic Gold X100

Wedges: Mizuno Pro (53, 58) with Dynamic Gold X100

Putter: Scotty Cameron Classic Newport (35 inches, 71 lie, 4 degrees of loft)

Ball: Titleist Tour Balata 100

Glove: Mizuno Pro

1996-2000 Titleist

The beginning of the Titleist years started off quietly. There wasn’t any new product launched and David wasn’t quite the star he would become 12-18 months later. However, it gave Titleist the opportunity to get to know DD and his overall preferences, which aren’t dramatic but certainly unique. He didn’t win in 1996 but did qualify for the Presidents Cup Team and finished that event off at 4-0. So the buzz was going in the right direction and his peers certainly took notice.

It was 1997 that things took off on all fronts and it was the year that Titleist made David Duval the face of the DCI brand and with that decision spawned the greatest cast players cavity ever: the 962B—and also equipped David Duval to go on a 3-year run that was surpassed by only Tiger Woods.

Hence the deep dive article I wrote up earlier this month

What was in the bag



TaylorMade Bubble Tour 8.5 w/ Bubble XHKP Prototype


TaylorMade Bubble Tour 8.5 w/ Bubble XHKP Prototype

King Cobra Deep Face 9 w/ Dynamic Gold X100

Callaway Warbird Great Big Bertha 6.5 w/ Dynamic Gold X100, True Temper EI70 Tour X

Titleist 975D 6.5 (no line heavier head weight) w/ Fujikura Prototype X


Callaway Warbird Great Big Bertha 6.5 w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X

Titleist 975D 6.5 (no line heavier head weight) w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X

1999: Titleist 975D 6.5 (no line heavier head weight) @ 7.5 w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X

2000: Titleist 975D 7.5 (no line heavier head weight) w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X



King Cobra @14 w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100


King Cobra @14 w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100


Callaway S2H2 (1 Dot) @14 w/ Fujikura Vista Pro 90X

Callaway Steelhead 3+ @13 w/ RCH 90 Pro Series Strong

Titleist 970 (Dark Grey Head) @13 w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X (only tested this one)


Callaway S2H2 (1 Dot) @14 w/ Fujikura Vista Pro 90X

Cobra Gravity Back 14.5T w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X



(2-PW) Titleist DD Blank Prototype w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100 (w/sensicore)

(2-PW) Titleist DCI Black “B” w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100 (w/sensicore)

*This prototype set was a blank set of the DCI Black “B” but with sole modifications. 

1997, 1998, 1999, 2000: (2,3) Titleist DCI Black (4-PW) Titleist DCI 962B w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100 (with sensicore)

*David liked the original prototype version of DG Sensicore X100 that had weight removed from the center of shaft to create better feel and a slightly higher trajectory

24 Feb 2000: David Duval watches the ball after hitting it during the World Match-Play Championships at the La Costa Resort & Spa in Carlsbad, California. Mandatory Credit: Harry How /Allsport


1996: (52 @53, 58) Mizuno Pro, (56 @57) Cleveland 588 RTG w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold S400

1997: (53) Cobra “Trusty Rusty”, (57 @58) Cleveland 588 RTG, (58) Titleist Bobka Grind, (57 @58) Cobra Trusty Rusty w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold S400

1998: (53) Cobra “Trusty Rusty”, (57 @58) Cleveland 588 RTGw/ True Temper Dynamic Gold S400

1999: (53) Cobra “Trusty Rusty”, (57 @58) Cleveland 588 RTG w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold S400

2000: (53) Cobra “Trusty Rusty”, (57 @58) Cleveland 588 “Gun Metal” w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold S400


1996: Scotty Cameron Classic Newport 1 35 Inches, 71 Lie, 4 Degrees of Loft, Scotty Cameron Long Slant Neck Laguna Custom (double welded neck)

1997: Odyssey Dual Force Rossie 2, Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Newport “Beached”  35 Inches, 71 Lie, 4 Degrees of Loft w/ PingMan “Blacked Out” Grip

1998, 1999, 2000: Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Newport “Beached”  35 Inches, 71 Lie, 4 Degrees of Loft w/ PingMan “Blacked Out” Grip

2001: Nike Golf and The Open Championship

The relationship with Titleist Golf ended quickly and when David showed up to Kapalua with a non-Titleist stand bag the rumor mill went nuts. The story (although super speculative) was that David opted out in the middle of a $4.5 million per year deal with Acushnet, a lawsuit followed, but Davids’s stance was that he had a marquee player clause that allowed him to walk if he wasn’t “marquee” aka highest-paid.

Apparently he had a point, Acushnet had recently inked big deals with Davis Love and Phil Mickelson leading someone on the outside to do the math. However, I’m not an attorney, wasn’t there, and have no clue what the legality of any of it was. Point is, he walked and landed at Nike with a new head-to-toe contract. 



Titleist 975D 7.5 (no line heavier head weight) w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X

Titleist 975E Prototype 8.5 w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X

Nike Titanium w/ True Temper EI-70 II Tour X (pictured below)

Nike Titanium Prototype 7.5 w/ True Temper EI70 Tour X (featured image)


Callaway Steelhead Plus 4+ @15 w/ RCH 90 Pro Series Strong

Nike Prototype @14 degrees w/ True Temper EI-70 Tour X

Sonartec/Excedo (SS-03 head) Driving Cavity @14 w/ Fujikura Vista Pro 90X


(2-PW) Titleist 990B w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100  (with sensicore)

(2-PW) Nike Prototype “DD” Grind MB w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100 (with sensicore)

(2) Titleist DCI Black w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold X100  (with sensicore)



(53) Cobra “Trusty Rusty”, (57 @58) Cleveland 588 “Gun Metal” w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold S400

(53,58) Nike DD Grind w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold S400

PUTTER: Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Newport “Beached”  35 Inches, 71 Lie, 4 Degrees of Loft w/ PingMan “Blacked Out” Grip


Over the years the one constant was David’s iron and wedge specs. As a shut-faced player he has always favored traditional lofts in his irons. However, a cool thing to note is his lie angles remained constant 59.5 (2-4), 60 (5-9). The running theory here was being a shallow (low hands) and shut faced player, keeping the lie angles at a constant (flatter) lie angle allowed him to feel like his angle of attack could remain the same for each iron. It’s just a feeling but that’s what he did. If the “why of it” is true, it looks like he was doing Bryson things before Bryson did.

David Duval Iron/Wedge Specs


  • 2-17/59.5/40.25/D5
  • 3-20.5/59.5/39 1/6/D4
  • 4-24/59.5/38 9/16/D4
  • 5-27/60/38 1/16/D4
  • 6-30.5/60/ 37 9/16/D4
  • 7-35/60/37 1/16/D4
  • 8-39/60/36 9/16/D4
  • 9-43/60/36 5/16/D4
  • P-47/61/36/ 1/16/D5
  • GW-53/62/35 5/8/D4
  • LW-58/62/35 9/16/D6

Whew…since this prolific run, David transitioned into some interesting projects with smaller companies like Scratch, B.I.G Golf (AKA Bio-engineered in Germany), back to the mainstream with Nike, and most currently Cobra Golf.

I hope you all enjoyed this walk down memory lane with me, Duval is not only fascinating from a career standpoint but digging into the equipment of DD has been quite the experience.

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“Why can’t I hit my new irons to a consistent distance?” – GolfWRXers have their say



In our forums, our members have been discussing irons and how to hit your numbers consistently. WRXer ‘Hubb1e’, who is a 15 handicap, is having issues and says:

“I recently upgraded from 20 year old Taylor Made 360 irons to a set of custom-built Callaway Apex 19 Forged irons. Old irons were traditional cavity back. New irons are categorized as players distance irons. Both have the same fit.

My new 3 iron will go 230 yards or 130 yards and not even make it far enough to reach the fairway. My new 7 iron will typically go 160 yards but will often will fly 175 yards or drop out of the air at 120 yards. I can’t control the distances of my new irons, and I spent a fortune custom fitting them to my swing. Why is this happening? This was never an issue with my old irons. A bad hit would go 10-20% shorter, but I never had balls fly over the green or completely fall out of the air. What is going on with my new equipment?”

Our members offer up their solutions in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • ThreeBoxers: “Strike quality is your answer. Tech or no tech, irons will not have 50-yard distance discrepancies. Not super familiar with the Apex irons, but they’re pretty forgiving no? You might lose 10 yards on toe or heel strikes but 40, 50? You’re probably hitting it heavy. If they have a beveled edge, it may mask the feeling of hitting it fat a bit, but not the result. My Mizunos have a pretty aggressive front edge grind which helps a ton on heavy shots. It’s the difference between landing 15 yards short and 50 yards short. +1 on using foot spray to check impact.”
  • extrastiff: “It also would not hurt to check your swing speed. Even strike being terrible that’s a large discrepancy. Maybe your last build had a weight that helped you get consistent swing speed.”
  • WristySwing: “I would say inconsistent strike is the biggest issue. Now that can mean a couple of things. It could mean you, as in the person swinging, are not hitting the ball properly because of inconsistent delivery. The other option is the fit is bad, and it is causing you to be extremely inconsistent because you cannot feel the head. It might be a little bit of column A and column B. However, I would lean more towards column A in this scenario because even a horrifically misfit set someone could get used to it eventually and not have 100 yards of discrepancy in carry shot to shot. I’ve seen people who are playing 50g ladies flex irons with fat wide soles who are very shallow and swing a 6i 92mph still not have 100 yards of carry flux with their sets. If your miss is toe-side 9/10x that is because you are coming too far from the inside. When you get too stuck on the inside you typically stall and throw your arms at it. When you break your wrists (flip)/throw your arms at it you get a very inconsistent low point average that often manifests in extremely fat or thin strikes….typically fat since your squat and rotate is out of sync with your release. As others have said, get some impact tape/foot powder spray and see where you are actually making contact. Then if you can get on a video lesson and see what the issue is. As of right now, we can all only assume what is going on. If your low point control is good, you don’t get stuck, and you are hitting it in the middle of the head — then fit comes into question.”
  • larryd3: “I”d be on the phone to my fitter and setting up a time to go back in and see what’s going on with the irons. You shouldn’t be getting those types of results with a properly fit set of irons. When I got my fitting earlier this year at TrueSpec, the fitter, after watching me hit a bunch with my current irons, focused on increasing the spin on my irons, not on distance but on consistency. So far, they seem to be working well when I put a decent swing on them.”
  • fastnhappy: “One possibility that wouldn’t necessarily show up indoors is sole design and turf interaction. You may have a real problem with the newer clubs because of a sole design that doesn’t work for your swing. That’s hard to tell when hitting inside off a mat. If so, you’d see major distance inconsistency because of strike. The feedback I’ve seen on the players distance irons is exactly what you’re describing… difficult to control distance.”

Entire Thread: “Why can’t I hit my new irons to a consistent distance?”

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What GolfWRXers are saying about their favorite watch for golf



In our forums, our members have been discussing their favorite watches for golf. WRXer ‘Sourpuss’ asks fellow members: “Dealer’s choice, cost is of no concern. What would you wear if you could afford it? Top 5 of your choice?” and WRXers have been weighing in with their choices in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • sheppy335: “Garmin S40. Love the feel and look.”
  • golfkrzy10: “Apple iWatch with the hole 19 app. Yardage, score, fway, and putts. Perfect for my minimalist walking views on the golf course.”
  • jcboiler: “Second the Apple Watch. Need to look into the apps though.”
  • Deadsquiggles: “If it didn’t bother me to play with a heavy watch, I’d wear my Deep Blue NATO Diver Automatic. But instead, I wear my cheap GShock.”
  • Golfjack: “I thought I was going to come in with a witty comment about my expensive watch, but looks like I’m late! Anyway, I wear my Galaxy Active 2 normally now. Used the Golf Caddie app for a few times. It worked well enough, but I don’t see it helping too much. Still prefer using apps on the phone if I need GPS info. Otherwise, I just use my rangefinder.”

Entire Thread: “Favorite watch for golf?”

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