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Mizuno JPX 900 drivers, fairway woods and hybrids

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In the golf equipment world, it’s rare for new releases and technologies to produce drastic distance gains in off-the-rack purchases, mostly due to limitations by the USGA. But where many new releases excel is in their increased adjustability, which allows golfers to fine-tune their clubs to fit their preferences and needs. That can create big distance gains, and a host of other benefits as well.

Mizuno is at the forefront of the custom-fitting movement with its JPX-900 drivers, fairway woods and hybrids, which were designed with focus on allowing golfers to optimize their swings and properly gap their clubs. That means golfers can get their games dialed in more than ever before.

Thanks to the added adjustability of the new JPX-900 driver, golfers can optimize spin rates, fine tune their visual preferences and help reduce their big miss. The new JPX-900 fairway woods have a central sliding weight that allows the clubs to perform as either a rocket launcher from the tee or high-ball hitting clubs that will stop shots abruptly on greens. The new JPX-900 hybrids have also undergone design changes to better fill a golfer’s yardage gaps, and look better, too.

Learn more about each of the new offerings below, and join the discussion about Mizuno’s JPX-900 clubs in our forums.

Mizuno JPX-900 driver

Mizuno_JPX_900_Driver

When designing the JPX-850 driver, which the JPX-900 driver is replacing, Mizuno “pulled out the stops,” says David Llewellyn, Mizuno’s Director of R&D. “We changed our attitude to make premium and aspirational drivers to match up with our irons.”

With a blue crown, adjustable center of gravity (CG) and adjustable hosels, Mizuno definitely broadened the scope of their drivers. Now, the company is expanding its technologies to cast an “even wider net,” according to Llewellyn, with a goal to “bring the most adjustable driver ever to the market.”

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To do that, Mizuno’s new JPX-900 driver offers an “Infinite Track,” which allows golfers to adjust center of gravity forward or rearward for trajectory and spin rate adjustments. It’s different from the familiar “Fast Track” of its predecessor, because there are no longer pre-determined spots on the track to put the weights; thus, the new track has infinite settings.

Also, like the JPX-850, JPX-900 drivers have two additional weight ports in their soles on the heel and toe of the clubs. They allow golfers to take one of the two weights and make the head either draw or fade-biased. The drivers also have adjustable hosels for lie angle and loft adjustments.

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Also new on the JPX-900 heads is VFA (visual face angle) adjustor that allows golfers to alter the soled face angle of a club, making it more open or closed at address. This is especially beneficial for gear heads who want their club head to look a certain way, or protect against missing shots a certain direction.

Not only is the 450-cubic-centimeter JPX-900 made to be more adjustable than ever, but it’s also designed to be more forgiving on off-center hits. This is accomplished through added technology you can’t see. With its new “CORtech” face design, Mizuno added support behind the face at the equator, but also vertically along the center of the face. This means that shots hit off center, or too high or too low on the face, will have additional forgiveness compared to their predecessors.

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The JPX-900 drivers are adjustable from 7.5-11.5 degrees in 1-degree increments. The stock shaft family is Fujikura’s Speeder Evolution II shaft, which has a counter balance design and comes in a variety of flexes and weights.

Why the Evo II? “With a linear bending profile, it’s perfect for a max-adjustable driver,” Llewellyn said.

Mizuno JPX-900 fairway woods

Mizuno_JPX_900_farirway_woods

Mizuno also implemented the new infinite-track technology in its JPX-900 fairway woods to allow golfers to fine-tune spin and trajectory, so whether your fairway wood is primarily used off the tee or from the fairway on approach shots, you can maximize its effectiveness.

Move the track forward and a JPX-900 fairway wood becomes a lower-spinning, lower-flying option from the tee. Move it rearward and it becomes a higher-spinning, higher-launching club with more forgiveness to give you a better chance of hitting and staying on the green with your long approach shots. With Mizuno’s infinite track, spin rates can change by 450 rpm, according to Mizuno’s testing.

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Also in the JPX-900 woods are a “Shockwave” sole, a waffle crown and a new head design. The Shockwave sole helps give the fairway wood a more forward CG, but is said to maintain high-COR on shots hit low on the face, which is a common spot for golfers to contact their fairway woods, especially when hit off the turf.

“The shockwave acts like an accordion, and concentrates weight forward and low on the face,” Llewellyn said.

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A “Waffle Crown” on the fairway woods refers to the multi-thickness design, which allows weight to repositioned for better forgiveness and lower CG while maintaining strength.

The JPX-900 faiway woods, which are available in 15, 18 and 21-degree stock heads, will come stock with a Fujikura Evolution II shaft and Golf Pride M31 360 grips. They will sell for $299.99 starting on September 16.

Mizuno JPX-900 hybrids

Mizuno_JPX_900_hybrid

For its hybrids, Mizuno focused on providing golfers with clubs that will bridge the gaps between their woods and longest irons. To accomplish that, Mizuno put emphasis on head shaping, which gives the clubs a more streamlined appearance that blends better with a golfer’s fairway woods and long irons

Each hybrid head (16, 19, 22, 25 degrees) was individually designed for the task, with the common goal of giving each club the right look at address. If you’ve ever looked at a high-lofted hybrid and shook your head — the leading edge seems to jut way too far in front of the hosel — you know the problem Mizuno was trying to fix. To solve the issue, Mizuno gave the hybrids a progressive amount of offset as loft increased, which gives the club faces a more traditional, iron-like look.

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In terms of tech, the hybrids were designed with a 1770 maraging steel face, a shockwave sole and a thicker sole-design than its predecessors for a lower CG.

The stock shaft in the JPX-900 hybrids is a Fujikura Pro available in 83X, 73S, 63R and 63R2, and the clubs will sell for $249.99 beginning on September 16.

Related: See what GolfWRX Members are saying about the new JPX-900 Drivers, Fairway Woods and Hybrids in our forum. 

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He played on the Hawaii Pacific University Men's Golf team and earned a Masters degree in Communications. He also played college golf at Rutgers University, where he graduated with a Bachelor of Arts in Journalism.

13 Comments

13 Comments

  1. Rich

    Sep 2, 2016 at 3:23 am

    Link to forum thread doesn’t work for me. Keeps saying error and that I don’t have permission to view that thread and I’m logged in. Please fix it.

  2. Mark

    Aug 30, 2016 at 9:49 pm

    How can a company that makes such gorgeous irons constantly get their woods so wrong? They look bling and Cobra ish and not in a good way. No wonder our local stockists stick to irons and wedges only.

  3. Dave R

    Aug 29, 2016 at 8:35 pm

    Mizuno are probably the best iron I have played, been a ping guy for years but switched this year and not looking back. Still play the g25 woods though hard to get rid of them.

  4. Jeff

    Aug 29, 2016 at 5:45 pm

    For $1200 the JPX 900 better go 325 yards right down the middle every time.

  5. Bigboy

    Aug 29, 2016 at 5:08 pm

    Stick to irons Mizuno.

    • DevilDog18

      Aug 29, 2016 at 11:46 pm

      Why not hit it first then judge in Bigboy

  6. Chance

    Aug 29, 2016 at 5:07 pm

    I loved the 850 and still do as I am gaming it. Never had the respect for Mizuno before I tried that driver. These look just as fantastic. Would love to try.

  7. Lester Diamond

    Aug 29, 2016 at 12:17 pm

    $300 for a fairway wood, and $250 for a hybrid? I also see there is no price listed for the driver.

    Shank.

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Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

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I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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