This is such a dark corner of the golf industry that I truly believe needs a lot of work. Hopefully, this article can shed some light on wedge shafts for you.
I will mention some standards, explain some of my experience, and hopefully, help you make some good choices.
Linking back to the first article on aspects of a wedge that I target when fitting, I place a lot of weight on the style, bounce, grind, and loft/lie/length to get my wedge fitting started. As we move into shaft options, I look at crossing T’s and dotting I’s to ensure a player enjoys their new wedge setup.
We carry a bunch of shaft options built into different heads. As yet we do not have a consistent way to swap shafts in wedges during a session that still allows them to play at a reasonable swing weight and perform as we would like. Moving forward, I will be looking to explore this area to see if we can deliver better service and experience.
Generic standards for wedge shaft setup
- Dynamic Gold “wedge flex”
- Matching exactly the same shaft in your irons to your wedges
- A slightly heavier shaft in your wedges
- Putting an 8-iron shaft in your wedges
- Using a wedge-specific shaft
During an iron fitting, we see a lot of variables in flight and feel, this is mainly because we use 6-irons as our demo clubs. When clients are hitting 6-iron shots, they are often looking for max carry, flight, and shot-shaping ability. This leads to hitting a lot of full swings and placing the shaft under a decent amount of load, therefore, we see some notable changes when we swap shafts. This will not show up as drastically in wedges as we are not always trying to hit the full shot.
As we get into wedge fitting, I discuss with my clients in-depth what they use each wedge for, how far they hit them, what is the most common shot they play, what are the most common bad shots, how does the ball react on the green and what shots do they feel they need in the bag. Basically, trying to get a good overview of their game in a short period. In very few cases do players mention the ‘full shot’ lets them down? Often players say they are more comfortable hitting “softer shots” or 3/4 swings, this gives them the flight/shot that they require on a regular basis and the niche shots and consistency lets them down.
Logic here says to me, you probably do not want exactly the same shaft in the irons all the way down to the lob wedge when you are hitting soft shots 95 percent of the time. When I look at shaft specs, I am trying to build a shaft that can easily put up with the stress of a full shot and handle a softer shot without feeling blunt (for all clubs in the bag).
When I merge this process into wedges, the only wedge a “matching iron” shaft seems to be applicable (for the majority) is the gap wedge or the wedge that is predominantly a full-swing club. This is the club you hit full and maybe knock-down shots with, but you’re rarely trying to hit “flicky” spinning shots. (Those shots are why you also have a sand and/or lob wedge in the bag).
It would then make sense that if you are rarely hitting any full shots with your sand wedge or lob wedge, you probably want a softer golf shaft in those (as they are not trying to put up with your “flat out” swing), still ensuring the shaft does not feel ‘blunt’ or hard work to play around the greens with.
This is not a one size fits all theory, but I think a lot of players would have success even thinking about their wedge shaft layout in this way.
As an example: Personally, I am playing True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue 120g X100 flex iron shafts. I hit a lot of full shots with my 50 and 54, so I have chosen to play the DG 120TI X100 shaft exactly the same way in those two clubs. My 60-degree however, I rarely hit the full shot, so I feel need it a little softer in stiffness, but I need the weight to get my tempo correct and to give me more control to hit lower shots. For this club, I play the Dynamic Gold S400 Tour Issue. I chose this shaft as the profile is very close to my iron shaft but it is 13g heavier and has a slightly softer tip section, which I feel gives me a little better response.
Please see the S3 shaft profile comparison below
(I am very lucky to have the S3 shaft data, it gives me an apples-to-apples comparison of shaft profiles and weights and make wedge shaft selection a lot easier).
I also wanted to capture some data to highlight the difference wedge shafts have as simply as possible. Below is a graph showing a PGA pro’s shot grouping with a few shaft options. His 6-iron speed is about 94mph, and he has a sharp back-swing to down-swing ratio. This would put him at the quick end of people I fit. This generally means the player enjoys stiffer shafts, stiff style profiles, high swingweight, high total/shaft weight (and again not in all cases).
He tested three shafts all in the same wedge head, with the same length, loft, and lie.
Please see the grouping below
The three shafts tested were: Nippon Modus 105 Wedge specific, Dynamic Gold Wedge flex and Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400.
In no way am I trying to demonstrate the DG S400 is the best shaft for wedges, but in this group of data all that shows up is, the stiffest profile, heaviest shaft (of the test group) gave the player the tightest grouping for his 55-degree wedge shot. His explanation was that he felt the club’s position in the swing better and the strike through the turf was much more consistent, producing more consistent land zones with the DG S400. This small test shows that the wedge shaft alone has an impact even for a skilled golfer.
There are however always exceptions to theories (especially in golf!)
When I have a player using, for example, C-Taper 130 X or Dynamic Gold X100 in their irons it is tough to find a profile that matches closely that is heavier and not any stiffer. In these cases, I tend to have them play the same shaft all the way down to their LW, but I try to increase swing weight and decrease FM in the niche shot wedges (SW and LW). This can just mean adding head weight to soften the shaft a little, or sometimes soft-stepping the product to get some ‘feel’ back.
The key take-away points
- Think about the shots you play with your wedges most and how hard you hit them
- Think about linking your shafts to your irons, but they do not always have to match
- Test options and measure: grouping, turf interaction and flight consistency
- Try and break down if the ‘”feel” of stiffness or weight help or hinder you making a consistent swing/strike
- Don’t just settle with the shaft the wedges come with… unless they match in with your setup!
Getting all the information in one article is always tough, and I hate generalizing, so feel free to shoot me some questions—I like to try to help and also hear your experience and ideas when I can!
Coolest thing for sale in the GolfWRX Classifieds (05/17/21): Taylormade Flextech Golf Bag
At GolfWRX, we love golf, plain and simple.
We are a community of like-minded individuals that all experience and express our enjoyment of the game in many ways. It’s that sense of community that drives day-to-day interactions in the forums on topics that range from best driver to what marker you use to mark your ball. It even allows us to share another thing we all love – buy and selling equipment.
Currently, in our GolfWRX buy/sell/trade (BST) forum, there is a listing for a Taylormade Flextech Golf Bag.
From seller (@Edutch22): “Taylormade Flextech Golf Bag. New before the 2 rounds I played. Does show cart strap use, not sure why after only two rounds. Just do not like the straps and how it carry’s. It is the same color scheme as the Taylormade Staff Bags, pictures show it a little more blue. Looking for $175 OBRO.”
To check out the full listing in our BST forum, head through the link: Taylormade Flextech Golf Bag.
‘Did one length irons ruin my game?’ – GolfWRXers discuss
In our forums, our members have been reacting to a post from WRXer ‘Alj92’, who is wondering whether switching to one length irons has ruined his game. Alj92 says:
“I played one length irons (King F9) all last season – about 80 rounds. In 20 years of golf I’ve never hit it better, even when I played well as a kid.
Because I could not find left handed wedges (anything above 48*) or a 4/5i (anything less than 23*), I sold them at the end of last season.
This year I switched to ping g425’s. Complete confidence, consistency and launch over the 6-7-8. Smash them. But I am struggling immensely with the 4/5 and 9-LW. Long irons thin weak slices, short irons strong pulls. Nowhere close with alignment.
Did I kill my swing with the one length irons last season? Is that…possible, or does it make sense? Or is this just an expensive validation that I am a prime candidate for one length?”
Our members have been giving their take on the post in our forums.
Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.
- lefthack: “Maybe just use traditional wedges with one length irons?”
- GatorNate11: “If I had to guess, your brain/body have probably just adjusted to that length. Give it some time, maybe get a couple of lessons in, and I’m sure you’ll find it again. Unless you made some sort of wild change in your swing with or without realizing it, it’s probably just a feel/visual thing tbh.”
- Fairway14: “Buy yourself a set of one length irons and wedges.”
K.H. Lee’s winning WITB: 2021 AT&T Byron Nelson
K.H. Lee WITB accurate as of the AT&T Byron Nelson.
Driver: Callaway Epic Max LS (10.5 degrees @9)
Shaft: Graphite Design Tour AD DI 6 X
3-wood: Titleist TS3 (15 degrees)
Shaft: Graphite Design Tour AD GP 7 X
Hybrid: Titleist TS3 (19 degrees)
Shaft: Graphite Design Tour AD HY 95 X
Irons: Titleist U500 (4), Callaway X Forged CB (5-PW)
Shafts: Project X LZ 6.5
Wedges: Titleist Vokey Design SM7 (52-08F @51, 56-14F, 60-08M)
Shafts: LZ 6.5 (52), True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400, S200 (60)
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Putter: Toulon Design San Diego
Grip: SuperStroke Traxion Pistol GT 1.0
Ball: Titleist Pro V1x
Grips: Golf Pride Tour Velvet
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