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Torching Stainless DIY - Part 1 and part 2 3-8-14


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#1 oneaugusta

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 05:24 PM

PART 1

Obviously many have their own way of doing this but my benchmark is for the putter when completed to look as close to an OEM or professional job as possible without having access to the high $$$ sanders and buffing wheels.  I do most everything by hand. The downside is it's alot of work but do it on your lap as you watch golf or college basketball.  Upside is, the process will result in little to no weight loss and look great.
  • Using a small butane torch or regular torch on very low, evenly heat the shaft tip area to remove head, immediately clean hosel post or inside for plumber neck and inside of shaft or exterior to remove epoxy residue " while wearing your leather gloves and safety glasses of course".
  • Strip all paintfill with acetone or paint remover
  • Evaluate all small dings or scratches to determine what you need to get the putter to 1st stage of smooth.  I don't like to use a dremmal tool to remove dings but will at times.  If the putter is a bit rough with some scratches and small dings.  I start with  a small piece 120 and sand by hand as many times and small pieces of 120 it takes to get putter 75% free of blemishes.  Rinse off sanding residue and dry
  • Continue same steps with 320 a couple of times sanding back and forth and rinse, continue same process with 400. Tip by another member: to clean cavity use a small pencil eraser tip with sandpaper glued or two sided tape.
  • Wet sand with 1000 in the same process a couple of times.  By now it should be looking pretty smooth but sand again with 2000 and rinse.  Clean with acetone or alcohol a couple of times.  Tip: I bought 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper of ebay for next to nothing and have at least 5 big sheets.
Part 2 will be hand polishing and prep for torching.  3-8-14

Polishing:
  • After thoroughly cleaning putter with acetone your ready to polish, I like flitz or semichrome but there are others.  With a soft rag (old teeshirt etc polish putter several times (3 to 4) to get very shiny and smooth then clean again with acetone.  
Torching:
  • Find on old shaft or piece of steel and tighten in a vice about a foot long sticking out and angle at 45 degrees, set the putter inside the shaft or piece of steel and set the putter head on it, (it will be somewhat loose so don't knock you putter on the floor) since you've handled the putter again and are ready to torch clean again with acetone and don't touch it with your bare fingers again, oil from your fingers will show up in the finish.
  • As far as propane torching goes I like the large nozzle with lots of air flow, use leather gloves and safety glasses and be aware of what's around you that could ignite.  I adjust to medium volume and just start going around the entire putter slowly and evenly about and inch away.  The main thing is patience, it will take about 10 to 15 minutes of going around the putter to see any change in color, it takes about 15 to 20 for gold, 25 to 30 for dark bronze to reds & purple and 40 to 45 for the blues.  Keep in mind this is how I do it, slow and not full heat from the torch.  To get what color you are wanting may not take you as long as it does me.
  • Do not quick cool or submerse in anything let it cool naturally or even just the opposite put a portable heater on it for about 45 minutes to delay cooling as this will keep the stainless close to it's original properties.  may take up to 11/2 hours to cool then ready for paintfill if desired.
​Any questions with this feel free to pm me.

Edited by oneaugusta, 16 July 2014 - 04:56 AM.

Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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#2 WormJones

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:10 PM

part 2?

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#3 Tiny Toes

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 11:26 PM

I want part two!
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#4 oneaugusta

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Posted 03 March 2014 - 08:49 AM

Working all the time. This week, promise
Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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#5 GolfFix13

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 10:25 PM

This always my intention when I start...then I get lazy around the 400 or 800 grit. I need to have more patience. So worth it in the end.


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#6 oneaugusta

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 03:52 PM

Part 2 added, thanks for the interest.
Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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#7 Scungi

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 03:50 AM

Thanks for this, I just recently picked up a SS Newport 2 at the Salvation Army for $25, it seemed like a great deal.

Needs some works, but Im going to follow these instructions! Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Its a righty, so I figured it will be great practice and first piece to try since Im a lefty.

Attached Thumbnails

  • image.jpg


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#8 oneaugusta

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 03:44 PM

View PostScungi, on 19 March 2014 - 03:50 AM, said:

Thanks for this, I just recently picked up a SS Newport 2 at the Salvation Army for $25, it seemed like a great deal.

Needs some works, but Im going to follow these instructions! Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Its a righty, so I figured it will be great practice and first piece to try since Im a lefty.
The only thing that sticks out that needs some elbow grease is the topline edges but the rest looks pretty good,  Maybe start with 120 on the edges and work your way up.  Would be great to see how it progresses.
Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

8

#9 SUITS

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 02:38 PM

40 minutes of rotating a torch to get to blue, I can feel my arms burning now.

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#10 oneaugusta

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 03:45 PM

Stay tuned samples from start to finish - Blue Chromatic finish

Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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#11 moocherpix

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 04:04 PM

View PostSUITS, on 27 March 2014 - 02:38 PM, said:

40 minutes of rotating a torch to get to blue, I can feel my arms burning now.
I have to be honest and say that if you are torching a putter for anywhere past 5 minutes, you need to upgrade your torch.  Been trying my hand at it for the past year and if you pre-heat the putter head for 1-2 minutes with a heat gun, then use a MAPP Gas torch with the Turbo head that Bernzomatic offers, you are looking at no more than 5 minutes to get all the way thru the gold, purple, sapphire blue, chromatic blue and on to less desirable colors.
Butane is great for low heat projects or slow heat like removing a shaft.  For torch finishes........not so much.
Just my take on it.
Nick

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#12 MNoonan

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 11:06 AM

View Postoneaugusta, on 11 July 2014 - 08:14 AM, said:

Process pictures using above methods.  Not quite finished yet,  just a bit more work on paintfill.

Attachment P1010030 (768x1024).jpgAttachment P1010001 (1024x768).jpgAttachment P1010003 (1024x768).jpgAttachment P1010005 (1024x768).jpgAttachment P1010020 (1024x768).jpgAttachment P1010028 (1024x768).jpg

Thats the perfect finish, imo. You've had the best/most detailed directions ive seen yet. Great stuff.
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#13 moocherpix

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 04:51 PM

Sorry, OneAugusta, but I am standing by my post.  I will grab one and time it, tonight and get hard numbers.  I spoke with a good friend who has refinished for over 15 years, you know him pretty well, and he agreed that my times were pretty darned close to his own experiences.  I didn't mention who's thread I was posting in, so that the information he gave was not biased.
The torch you show in your post is not the one I am referring to, either.  I use this one:
http://www.homedepot...nzomatic?NCNI-5
The part about going too fast and having poor results can be an issue, for the new guys, I will give you that.  But, I have worked in the metals and machinery world long enough that this was almost second nature for me.
If you are really spending 40 minutes to get the look you want, you have more time on your hands than I do.
As for Byron spending 25 minutes to torch a putter with acetylene..................we'll just leave that one alone.
Sorry to be a dissenting poster.
Nick

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#14 golfluvzme

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Posted 11 July 2014 - 10:18 PM

When I see Nick, I'll smack him a little bit.  Your thread was just trying to be helpful and he gets a little fired up, sometimes about things that he should not.
My torch jobs don't seem like they take near as much time to heat, but it is one guy doing it HIS way and the other guy doing the same.  I will admit that if I had a head that I knew was going to take 40 minutes to get to the color I wanted, I would not look forward to the dancing the flame around with one hand, then in the other.  My arms would be wasted.
That blue one looks awesome!  I have never taken the time to get to that point.  Maybe it is high time I tried.
Take Nick with a grain of salt.  He means well, but does not always come across that way.  Truth is, he is just another putter nut like the rest of us.  Maybe hanging out and watching me has given him a jaded sense of what is "normal", LOL.
Have a great weekend and keep working on those putters.  That was how it all started for me, so who knows where it will lead you.
Thanks again,
LaMont in AZ

Pre-heated with a heat gun, then another 3-4 minutes with a Mapp Gas torch and the Bernzomatic Sure Fire head.  The only drawback to this torch head is exactly what you described.  There is zero adjusting the flame.  Hit the ignitor and Watch the Heck Out.

2014_07100004.JPG


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#15 oneaugusta

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 06:09 AM

Thanks for sharing your thoughts Lamont, was just trying to come up with some information for the average guy who can buy all he needs at a hardware store yet get a professional job without hurting himself. I wish I had access to all of the good tools, sanding wheels etc. that you do and maybe I could get a finish done a bit faster.  
That putter looks outstanding, your work just keeps getting better and better.  This ones carbon though right?  Do you spend the same amount of time on stainless?

Edited by oneaugusta, 12 July 2014 - 06:20 AM.

Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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#16 jdw2920

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 12:53 PM

Going to try this on a square back soon just waiting on the pieces to come in. Wish it could be done without removing shaft

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#17 oneaugusta

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 02:03 PM

Have gotten some inquiry on DIY torching techniques of late and thought I would revive this post with some added information.  Please keep in mind this is my method and there are other ways of doing it.  

First: anyone can torch a putter, it is not hard to throw the heat to a piece of stainless or carbon and get it to change color, however without some degree of preparation it will be just a surface finish or staining the metal and will fade or rub off after a few months.

To get a true finish that will last you must do the prep and get into fresh steel and remove oxidation to get the finish to sink in a few microns, "this applies to carbon and stainless".

Edited by oneaugusta, 28 January 2016 - 11:41 AM.

Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

17

#18 ItJustDiz

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 09:36 PM

View Postoneaugusta, on 27 January 2016 - 02:03 PM, said:

Have gotten some inquiry on DIY torching techniques of late and thought I would revive this post with some added information.  Please keep in mind this is my method and there are other ways of doing it.  

First: anyone can torch a putter, it is not hard to throw the heat to a piece of stainless or carbon and get it to change color, however without some degree of preparation it will be just a surface finish or staining the metal and will fade or rub off after a few months.

To get a true finish that will last you must do the prep and get into fresh steel and remove oxidation to get the finish to sink in a few microns, "this applies to carbon and stainless".

Re reviving - I would love to see some progress or finished product shots, oneaugusta. About to start this process once I get a buffing wheel and torch.
Thanks,
D

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#19 oneaugusta

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 06:20 AM

The Mods do not allow me to post work as someone considers it advertising.   PM me if you want some more info on projects or new stuff.
Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

19

#20 oneaugusta

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 06:09 PM

Here are what I consider a must for a good torch job.

        Bible of torching
  • Head sanded baby smooth - 3 step method after dings and nicks removed.  Rinsing in between gits, 400 grit, 800 grit, 1200 grit-wet sand first then dry sand.
  • Buff and or hand polish with metal polish minimum of 2 times to remove oxidation (black stuff). If you want satin finish now is the time to use scotchbrite while running under water in a back and forth uniform method with light pressure until desired sheen.
  • Spotless clean with soap and water first than clean 3 times with high grade alcohol 90%+ using lint free wipes "like used by your wife for doing her nails" q-tip with alcohol in all crevices, bare hands should not touch the putter once clean.
  • Torching, pre-warm  for about 5 minutes with heat gun before torching.
Hope this helps guys, pm me if you have questions

Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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#21 Leftymoose

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Posted 15 August 2016 - 11:14 PM

Sounds like a heck of a process..I've seen some of the pictures you've done Larry and they are as good as they come. I prefer a torched finish over any other finish, trying to add a number of different torch finishes to my growing collection.

Edited by Leftymoose, 15 August 2016 - 11:15 PM.

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#22 Bunker2Bunker2

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 12:00 PM

Sorry to revive this one again, but this looks right the street I'm headed with my Circa 62 no.1. When you talk about pre-heating with a heat gun to take some time out of the need for torching, would heating in an oven at around 400-500 for a given time be just as effective and cut down on the 40-45 mins to get into the blues?
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#23 oneaugusta

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 06:30 PM

View PostBunker2Bunker2, on 16 April 2017 - 12:00 PM, said:

Sorry to revive this one again, but this looks right the street I'm headed with my Circa 62 no.1. When you talk about pre-heating with a heat gun to take some time out of the need for torching, would heating in an oven at around 400-500 for a given time be just as effective and cut down on the 40-45 mins to get into the blues?
oven has little to no effect and will not be even, torching is the way to go for results, no good short cut I have found.
Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

23

#24 Bunker2Bunker2

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 02:25 AM

View Postoneaugusta, on 18 April 2017 - 06:30 PM, said:

View PostBunker2Bunker2, on 16 April 2017 - 12:00 PM, said:

Sorry to revive this one again, but this looks right the street I'm headed with my Circa 62 no.1. When you talk about pre-heating with a heat gun to take some time out of the need for torching, would heating in an oven at around 400-500 for a given time be just as effective and cut down on the 40-45 mins to get into the blues?
oven has little to no effect and will not be even, torching is the way to go for results, no good short cut I have found.
OK, thanks!
Going to give it a try this weekend when I have time during the day so the light is good to se the colour changes.
R15 9.5 (neutral) Black Tie 8M3 X
17* V-Steel Aldila NV Green 85x
Apex UT 21 Modus 3 130x
Srixon Z745 4-P Modus 3 130x
Vokey 48 * bent to 50* C-Taper 130x, Cleveland Tour Issue RTX 2.0 Raw 54* and 60* Nippon Tour Issue WV115
Machine Fat Back 38"
ProV1x/RZN Platinum/Tour D
Nike FI Impact 2
Leupold GX3i

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#25 GolfWithdrawals

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 08:37 AM

View Postoneaugusta, on 07 February 2014 - 05:24 PM, said:

PART 1

Obviously many have their own way of doing this but my benchmark is for the putter when completed to look as close to an OEM or professional job as possible without having access to the high $$$ sanders and buffing wheels.  I do most everything by hand. The downside is it's alot of work but do it on your lap as you watch golf or college basketball.  Upside is, the process will result in little to no weight loss and look great.
  • Using a small butane torch or regular torch on very low, evenly heat the shaft tip area to remove head, immediately clean hosel post or inside for plumber neck and inside of shaft or exterior to remove epoxy residue " while wearing your leather gloves and safety glasses of course".
  • Strip all paintfill with acetone or paint remover
  • Evaluate all small dings or scratches to determine what you need to get the putter to 1st stage of smooth.  I don't like to use a dremmal tool to remove dings but will at times.  If the putter is a bit rough with some scratches and small dings.  I start with  a small piece 120 and sand by hand as many times and small pieces of 120 it takes to get putter 75% free of blemishes.  Rinse off sanding residue and dry
  • Continue same steps with 320 a couple of times sanding back and forth and rinse, continue same process with 400. Tip by another member: to clean cavity use a small pencil eraser tip with sandpaper glued or two sided tape.
  • Wet sand with 1000 in the same process a couple of times.  By now it should be looking pretty smooth but sand again with 2000 and rinse.  Clean with acetone or alcohol a couple of times.  Tip: I bought 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper of ebay for next to nothing and have at least 5 big sheets.
Part 2 will be hand polishing and prep for torching.  3-8-14

Polishing:
  • After thoroughly cleaning putter with acetone your ready to polish, I like flitz or semichrome but there are others.  With a soft rag (old teeshirt etc polish putter several times (3 to 4) to get very shiny and smooth then clean again with acetone.  
Torching:
  • Find on old shaft or piece of steel and tighten in a vice about a foot long sticking out and angle at 45 degrees, set the putter inside the shaft or piece of steel and set the putter head on it, (it will be somewhat loose so don't knock you putter on the floor) since you've handled the putter again and are ready to torch clean again with acetone and don't touch it with your bare fingers again, oil from your fingers will show up in the finish.
  • As far as propane torching goes I like the large nozzle with lots of air flow, use leather gloves and safety glasses and be aware of what's around you that could ignite.  I adjust to medium volume and just start going around the entire putter slowly and evenly about and inch away.  The main thing is patience, it will take about 10 to 15 minutes of going around the putter to see any change in color, it takes about 15 to 20 for gold, 25 to 30 for dark bronze to reds & purple and 40 to 45 for the blues.  Keep in mind this is how I do it, slow and not full heat from the torch.  To get what color you are wanting may not take you as long as it does me.
  • Do not quick cool or submerse in anything let it cool naturally or even just the opposite put a portable heater on it for about 45 minutes to delay cooling as this will keep the stainless close to it's original properties.  may take up to 11/2 hours to cool then ready for paintfill if desired.
​Any questions with this feel free to pm me.

I am brand new to this and I'm going to give it a go soon. Do these instructions apply to carbon steel as well? Also, can this be done without removing the shaft?   Thanks and btw your torching finishes look amazing.


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#26 oneaugusta

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 05:01 AM

Prep work applies to carbon as well with some differences in the torch time and many "including myself" will quench in oil after the torching.

Shaft must be removed as the epoxy lets go around 400 degrees and will be ruined by the torching.

Maybe need to ad some steps for carbon as well as timing is much more critical than ss, with good prep it changes color about twice as fast and very easy to torch to long and lose your color.
Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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#27 GolfWithdrawals

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 07:14 AM

Thanks for the info. What is the easiest way to remove a putter or wedge/iron head from the shaft? I'm not sure I'm ready for oil quenching and I'm pretty nervous about using a blow torch for the first time, but I'm sure I'll get more comfortable once I get going.

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#28 oneaugusta

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 04:53 PM

Buy shaft clamp to hold shaft in vise heat on low heat with propane or other and go evenly around shaft to about 3 inches up for about 2 or 3 minutes, use leather gloves to twist and pull head off.

Edited by oneaugusta, 25 April 2017 - 08:06 PM.

Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

28

#29 hanetrob

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 06:30 PM

View Postoneaugusta, on 25 April 2017 - 05:01 AM, said:

Prep work applies to carbon as well with some differences in the torch time and many "including myself" will quench in oil after the torching.

Shaft must be removed as the epoxy lets go around 400 degrees and will be ruined by the torching.

Maybe need to ad some steps for carbon as well as timing is much more critical than ss, with good prep it changes color about twice as fast and very easy to torch to long and lose your color.
Any special oil, or will motor oil work?

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#30 oneaugusta

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 05:00 AM

motor oil, used or new, some use 2 cycle oil.

Titleist 917 D2 GOGO 5 6S
   TEE CB5 4 wood Fubuki Tour
   Miura CB57's Nippon Modus 120
   Miura custom raw 50 54, 56 Nippon WV 125
   David Mills Custom torched  Heritage SS flow neck
   David Mills Custom Carbon flow neck Hertitage V2 with Nitride finish
   Byron Rincon DH89

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