Cutting Down a Driver Shaft
Posted 04 June 2007 - 05:02 AM
To answer your question.
1) will the shaft get stiffer as it gets shorter?
A) if you are cutting down a shaft that is already installed, not that much. You will be trimming from the butt end. Yes it will get a little stiffer, and depending on the shaft, but I really doubt if you could tell it. If you are ordering this club, you can have them cut a little off the tip. The shaft manufacturer can tell you how much to cut to get the desired effect that you are looking for.
A) if you take a driver that is already put together and cut the shaft. Yes you will loose swing weight. several factors here, but generally 9 to 11 grams per inch. If you are ordering this club from the factory, tell them what swingweight you want it, they will weight the head, or find you a head that will come out right.
Posted 04 June 2007 - 10:27 AM
On the first few I trimmed, I added lead tape to bring the sw back up to D1 or so, because everybody told me to. But I put a new shaft in a Cobra F Speed head last week, cut it to 43.5" and left the weight alone. It's around C5 or something. I hit that thing better than any driver I've ever swung. Swingweights are a personal preference, and not everybody likes a light driver. I really, really like it. It seems to allow me to avoid having the clubhead creep outside the target line. I can stay on the inside arc out to the ball even when giving it a little extra oomph.
The force with which the club pulls on your hands is proportional to both the length of the club and its weight. Reducing both variables can allow some folks to swing faster and still control the path of the club (ie, keeping it on an inside path to the ball).
If you have liked the effect of choking down, then you have been swinging a "light" driver. I wouldn't then order a new one cut shorter from the custom shop, because they'll add around 22 grams to the head and you might not like it. Just pick out your new one and have the shop cut the butt end to suit your taste.
Posted 04 June 2007 - 12:01 PM
Titleist 913F 15 Diamana 82 s
Titleist 913H 17 Phenom x
Titleist 714 CB 3-9 X100
Titleist Scotty Cameron Newport 2
Titleist Vokey Raw Black SM5 46, 54, 58
Posted 04 June 2007 - 08:46 PM
Manufacturers sell 45, 45.5, and 45.75 inch drivers because they can tout distance, but the average golfer will hit the sweet spot a lot more on a shorter driver, thus gain more distance. Sure, a 45" driver will go farther, if you hit the sweet spot.
Posted 04 June 2007 - 09:37 PM
I know this forum is sometimes filled with hyperbole, but this tale is true. I was really hitting the ball hard at the range in the last two sessions with that short, light driver. I felt I could really cut loose with it.
I played a round with it for the first time today (13 holes, anyway). My normal average well-struck drive has been in the 225-235 range; an occasional downwind bomb would go 250.
I hit driver on 9 holes today. 2 of them hooked left pretty badly; I took a mulligan on another bad hook. 7 hit fairway or first cut. They were:
293 (upwind, but got a good bounce off hard turf)
(measured with SkyCaddie)
Conditions were breezy, and these were a combination of upwind, downwind, crosswind. Uphill and downhill. Enough variety that I know that this newfound distance is the real stinkin' deal. It's not so much the driver as the fact that I've figured out how to swing it hard without losing control of it.
So much for the idea that a 43.5" driver will cost distance!
Another thing I learned -- courses don't play properly from the white tees hitting the ball 260+.
Posted 05 June 2007 - 05:21 AM
Thanks for all the replies guys.
I never knew there'd be so many guys using shorter driver shafts and getting the same great results I've been getting.
I've been an advocate of the shorter shaft length ever since reading Wishon's book "In Search of the Perfect Driver". You can't argue with Wishon the same way you can't argue with Physics. So I took his advice and started choking down, and added lead tape to try and make up for the loss in swing weight. But seeing that some of you have had good results with a lighter swingweight, I might try taking off the lead tape.
Posted 05 June 2007 - 05:47 AM
Edited by jcjr34, 05 June 2007 - 05:49 AM.
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Posted 06 June 2007 - 09:50 AM
Having just upgraded to a hi-bore 3 wood with ys6 cut down to 42.inches, and seen the benefits of this I think I will be gettig my fitter to cut at least an inch from my driver shaft.
Thanks for the post which has helped me get my driver back on the fairway.
Posted 06 June 2007 - 10:43 AM
One reason to use the MWT of TM is that you can adjust your swingweight with the weights, without lead tape or any other weights. Just something to think about. You can try all different swingweights and firgure out what your like without hotmelt or tip weights or something else.
So if there is a TM head that you like, this might be best to give it a try.
Posted 06 June 2007 - 03:54 PM
Posted 13 January 2011 - 05:28 PM
Last week I get the club back and take it to the range. I can't hit the club at all, all my shots are high slices or fades. Now I think I made a huge mistake. I do notice that it seems longer than normal, so I lay it out next to my 3 wood which I know is 42 1/2" and my driver is way longer. I decide to choke down an inch or more on the club. Well I am killing it off the tee, so I take it home and put it on my club ruler and sure enough the club is 45 1/2" long. I am going to cut it back down to 44 1/2" this week.
I could not believe the differenced that the 1" of extra shaft length made. The new UST V2 shaft is flat out awesome, and I don't really have to worry about swing weight since the club was already 44 1/2" and I upped the weight by 10grams on the new shaft. I highly suggest trying shorter driver lengths to increase your control.
Can I use this to butt cut driver graphite shaft?
Posted 25 January 2012 - 12:43 PM
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