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Modify AEROTECH SteelFiber from paralell to taper...

iron shaft parallel taper

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#1 tiger168

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 04:23 PM

Hi WRXer,

Time after time, I found myself back to your comments, no matter how old they are, I can always draw inspirations from your comments.  And I have found them here again.

One question or updated issue I am facing at hand, which is, I found my wrist hurting more and more when I play each round.  I just passed 50 year old and I just gave in my long time denial of using a reading glasses for my score card and GPS apps on my phone.

Now I am heading to a grey area of changing steel shafts towards graphite, a scary thought. But, I started the first step, I bought a used set of Steel Fiber and ready to put in my J40.

I am facing the challenge of putting this used set of parallel shafts into the J40 which is tapered.  I have called AEROTECH, spoke to my local Master club fitter/repair pro. I have read most of your comment posted here, but, I would like a confirmation for doing the right thing and not have to loose confidence in the process of stepping into the graphite shaft for iron arena.

As it seems like converting the J40 to the parallel by drilling is the easiest way, I am not keen to have to deal with the after fact to loose the weight and using lead or putting weight in the shaft to bring the swing weight back.  It just sounded too much uncertainty, plus drilling the hosel is just plenty scary to me.

AEROTECH engineering executive and Master club pro saying sanding down the graphite parallel to a taper tip is no big deal, just "do it carefully and do it right". Now that worries me, also, as they never told me the proper way to do it "right". As they suggest they will just use the sand paper.

Now, I have a small shop in my garage, I have most of the tools, even the proud owner of  some Maltby designed tools. I can install shafts, change grips, check/adjust loft/lie, weight, small drilling station, bench sander and of course I am looking at a full set of air tool for Christmas...  LOL...

I keep asking everyone how do you make sure sanding down from parallel to taper and guarantee the shaft tip is still aligned and centered without sanding too much on one side or the other too much.

As it seems I cannot get a straight answer from anyone.

Therefore, Master WRXer, grass hopper awaits for your wisdom.

Kind Regards!!


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#2 Socrates

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 04:58 PM

Reaming out the head is only going to cost you a few grams (if that).  Not really that big a deal in the grand scheme of things as your SW is going to be way out unless you add weight to the head (could be over 10 grams).  This is what I encountered when I converted my i20's from CFS to Aerotech 95's.  You should be prepared to either add weight to the head, lengthen the playing length or live with it.

Having tapered many graphite shafts (yeah there are some who freak out at that), I found that you might want to find out exactly how much depth needs to be sanded (s/b about 5/8") by knowing the hosel depth minus how far a non-tapered shaft goes in.  Draw a line around the shaft accordingly so you don't sand above that line.

I am very adept at sanding down shafts (too many years of practice) and can be very precise at rotating the shaft while sanding and keeping it even, using a bench sander with a fine grit.  It requires a light touch as you are only taking a very small amount off.  Take your time and do it very cautiously.

That's just me.  You likely can do it very easily by hand sanding the tip.  Pinch the sandpaper between your fingers and insert the shaft and rotate back and forth.  Might take longer, but should work too.
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#3 Golfrnut

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 05:04 PM

After having my hands on both recently, I can say that I don't think that you will be able to sand the tips down while keeping that outter weave of the steel fibers on the tip section, There just isn't a lot of room for play.  I can always be proven wrong though.  With that being said, I don't think it will necessarily cause an issue with either as long as the taper doesn't extend outside the hosel.
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#4 Socrates

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 05:37 PM

View PostGolfrnut, on 26 October 2013 - 05:04 PM, said:

After having my hands on both recently, I can say that I don't think that you will be able to sand the tips down while keeping that outer weave of the steel fibers on the tip section, There just isn't a lot of room for play.  I can always be proven wrong though.  With that being said, I don't think it will necessarily cause an issue with either as long as the taper doesn't extend outside the hosel.
You will go past the steel fibers, but he's got to make the best of the situation.  If he doesn't go past the 5/8" or so, it won't compromise the playability of the shaft or useability.  Reaming is still the best option.
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#5 Golfrnut

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 07:14 PM

View PostSocrates, on 26 October 2013 - 05:37 PM, said:

View PostGolfrnut, on 26 October 2013 - 05:04 PM, said:

After having my hands on both recently, I can say that I don't think that you will be able to sand the tips down while keeping that outer weave of the steel fibers on the tip section, There just isn't a lot of room for play.  I can always be proven wrong though.  With that being said, I don't think it will necessarily cause an issue with either as long as the taper doesn't extend outside the hosel.
You will go past the steel fibers, but he's got to make the best of the situation.  If he doesn't go past the 5/8" or so, it won't compromise the playability of the shaft or useability.  Reaming is still the best option.

I agree on all points.

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#6 farmer

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 07:19 PM

By sanding, you run the risk of ruining the shaft, plus you need to keep the taper constant.  A machine shop could ream out the heads cheaper than you could replace a few shafts.

#7 HighSpeedScene

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 07:51 PM

My vote would be to acquire the correct shafts.

#8 td_proV_UNO

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 08:56 PM

!!!Ream the heads!! You will lose a very small amount of weight by doing so and then you will not have to fool with sanding. Just make sure you start with a clean hosel, anchor the head and don't force it...
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#9 wundej

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 08:02 PM

Just saw this thread, and found it to be really similar to where the discussion went in my thread. http://www.golfwrx.c...er#entry8050191

Maybe some other discussion in there that can help make a decision.

#10 ST7

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 09:47 PM

I actually was talking to Chris at Aerotech about this not too long ago so hope this info can help you.

Short answer is yes, you can do it but the bore depth needs to be more than 5/8" or so.  The deeper the better.  I don't have the exact specs for the taper tip on me but irrc, the taper tip is basically .355 that is tapered from .370, starting from 5/8" up from the very tip.  Masking tape at the 5/8" mark and then holding sandpaper while turning the shaft while spot checking with a caliper did the trick.  I don't think I need to go into details because you mentioned the tools and shop you have, I'm sure you're handy enough to know what to do.

About the steel fiber part being sanded off. Yes, you will lose it but its fine as long as the exposed graphite is not at or above the top of the hosel. The shaft will not know whether or not the steel fiber is there as long as its below that line and will have no effects on strength.  To be more safe, instead of the very top of the hosel, I'll say try to keep it below where the counter sink of the hosel ends, which is usually not a lot, about 2-3mm from the top edge or so.  If I recall, J40 have a hosel depth of around 1 1/8" but its been a while since I've pulled one of their heads, but I did remember it wasn't much different in depth than Mizuno MP heads which I know for sure is 30mm for the last 10 years.

If you have i95 and heavier, that's even more assurance since the tip wall thickness of those shafts are pretty thick.  Thick enough where some tip weight shanks won't fit. They have the beefier tips than most of the shafts I've seen.  Hope that helps but you can give Aerotech a call or email to verify this.

If I had to choose, I definitely rather sand a shaft vs reaming the head because it can always give you the option to go back to tapers in the future.  Especially when you're going to graphite, you'll need all the grams you can get in the head to keep the swing weight up.

Edited by ST7, 27 October 2013 - 09:56 PM.

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#11 Kacee

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 11:26 AM

Just do it, sometimes you guys really are over obsessive about small things.

I hit my wedges with 2 inches deep divots, and I practice on matt, and my wedges with sanded-down-to-fit SteelFiber i95 regular are all intact after 3 months, my wrists would all be broken before the shafts do.

#12 tiger168

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 06:01 PM

Thank you all for the great  input so far...

I spoke to Chris at AEROTECH as well before I post this topic. Chris just say, pls do it "carefully"...  like Socrates said... And the technique as per ST7, exactly...

My concern was more leaning if and when I sand the shaft unevenly that it creates an angle when the head is inserted or the shaft wobbles inside the hosel. That actually changes the lie and loft of the head, then I have to adjust it accordingly, I suppose...

Chris was not concern about sanding away the steel peels as all the SteelFiber are tip stiff, I want him to say "reinforced", but, he wouldn't go that far. As we all know these are low low torque shaft to begin with. On a tip-scale they are more stiff than the actual steel shafts.

BTW, I have the i95.

It makes me wonder, why isn't a tool for this...  Hmmmm... Like a good old pencil sharpener...  LOL...

Edited by tiger168, 28 October 2013 - 06:01 PM.


#13 Golfrnut

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 06:43 PM

View Posttiger168, on 28 October 2013 - 06:01 PM, said:

It makes me wonder, why isn't a tool for this...  Hmmmm... Like a good old pencil sharpener...  LOL...


From what I kind of understand, those OEMs that do taper from the factory use some piece of equipment that is similar in fashion.

I could be wrong, but seeing a how the Aerotech tapers are CW shafts, I think they are different from the .370s in that they are two physically different shafts.  Some OEMs do offer .370s that are just tapered to .355s though.
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#14 Socrates

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 07:27 PM

View Posttiger168, on 28 October 2013 - 06:01 PM, said:

Thank you all for the great  input so far...

I spoke to Chris at AEROTECH as well before I post this topic. Chris just say, pls do it "carefully"...  like Socrates said... And the technique as per ST7, exactly...

My concern was more leaning if and when I sand the shaft unevenly that it creates an angle when the head is inserted or the shaft wobbles inside the hosel. That actually changes the lie and loft of the head, then I have to adjust it accordingly, I suppose...

Chris was not concern about sanding away the steel peels as all the SteelFiber are tip stiff, I want him to say "reinforced", but, he wouldn't go that far. As we all know these are low low torque shaft to begin with. On a tip-scale they are more stiff than the actual steel shafts.

BTW, I have the i95.

It makes me wonder, why isn't a tool for this...  Hmmmm... Like a good old pencil sharpener...  LOL...
Actually, there is.  Commercially available item (can't remember the companies name) that essentially was a big pencil sharpener.  It was for prepping tips of graphite shafts.  All you had to do was insert the shaft into the "sharpener" and it took the paint and only the paint off.  Really cool device.  Quite sure UST (and other OEM's) would use something similar when they need to taper a limited run and don't make them tapered from the get go.  We never got one as they were about $5000 each and we were already beginning to outsource assembly to China.
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#15 tiger168

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 08:21 PM

View PostSocrates, on 28 October 2013 - 07:27 PM, said:

View Posttiger168, on 28 October 2013 - 06:01 PM, said:

Thank you all for the great  input so far...

I spoke to Chris at AEROTECH as well before I post this topic. Chris just say, pls do it "carefully"...  like Socrates said... And the technique as per ST7, exactly...

My concern was more leaning if and when I sand the shaft unevenly that it creates an angle when the head is inserted or the shaft wobbles inside the hosel. That actually changes the lie and loft of the head, then I have to adjust it accordingly, I suppose...

Chris was not concern about sanding away the steel peels as all the SteelFiber are tip stiff, I want him to say "reinforced", but, he wouldn't go that far. As we all know these are low low torque shaft to begin with. On a tip-scale they are more stiff than the actual steel shafts.

BTW, I have the i95.

It makes me wonder, why isn't a tool for this...  Hmmmm... Like a good old pencil sharpener...  LOL...
Actually, there is.  Commercially available item (can't remember the companies name) that essentially was a big pencil sharpener.  It was for prepping tips of graphite shafts.  All you had to do was insert the shaft into the "sharpener" and it took the paint and only the paint off.  Really cool device.  Quite sure UST (and other OEM's) would use something similar when they need to taper a limited run and don't make them tapered from the get go.  We never got one as they were about $5000 each and we were already beginning to outsource assembly to China.

A $5,000 pencil sharpener...  eh... mh... wah... I saw a hosel installation cube that i am temping to convert it with a die inside...


#16 tiger168

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 08:56 PM

Sharing some ideas with y'all...

http://www.ebay.com/...=item58a1eb21fc

http://tradgang.com/...ic;f=1;t=122931

http://www.3riversar...5_baseitem.html

http://www.golfshaft...-Flap-Wheel.php

http://www.golfworks...21_A_cn_E_10028

Edited by tiger168, 29 October 2013 - 12:05 PM.


#17 Socrates

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:10 AM

6 years later, I wish I had kept some of my files but I tossed most things when the company folded/sold.  Who knew I was going to reference a shaft prepping machine.  It really was like a Super-sized tm pencil sharpener.  At the centre of it was an interchangeable head depending on what diameter of shaft you were prepping.  We kept using the standard sanding machine and relying on the talent of the shaft guy (sometimes me) to abrade the right amount.  Actually used a device similar to the cue ferrule roller pictured except it only had two wheels.  The butt end went on the rollers and you could easily spin the shaft into the belt.
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#18 ST7

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 12:40 PM

Golfnut, you're right, the cw and .370 Steel Fibers at the same weight are completely different shafts.  Even the profile from how it tapers from the butt end is a little different.

tiger168, its really not as hard as it sounds to taper them.  As long as you don't sand above the 5/8" point and as long as you got the tip to hit the bottom of the hosel, you're good.  Do it carefully, keep checking with a caliper and keep inserting it into the head to see how the fit is.  By the 3rd shaft, it becomes pretty automatic.

Even if its taper to taper or modified, its good practice to have the loft and lie checked anyways.  There's almost always some sort of variance when you reshaft that will change the loft or lie a degree or so on a few clubs.
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