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How do You Install Taylormade Sleeves?


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#1 DBruce11

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 05:52 PM

Hey guys, I recently picked up a new taylormade sleeve and shaft from golfworks.com. I am wondering if I was going to install the sleeve myself, how would I go about it? What materials would I need to do it and is it an easy process? Help would be greatly appreciated!

Taylormade Jetspeed TP 10.5* w/ Fujikura Speeder 661
Taylormade SLDR 3HL TP 17* w/ Fujikura Speeder VC 7.0
Taylormade Tour Preferred UDI 18* w/ KBS C-Taper Lite
Taylormade Tour Preferred MC 4-PW w/ DG XP S300
Taylormade Tour Preferred Wedges 50*, 54*, 58*
Taylormade Spider Blade Counterbalance 32

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#2 robengel

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 06:32 PM

I am hoping you just use epoxy like shafting a regular head, because I just got a shaft and r11 sleeve myself, and that's what I'm planning on doing!
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#3 stebed

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 06:39 PM

yep prep it all the same as a regular re shaft, abrade the inside of the adapter get the paint off the end of the shaft clean shaft and adapter with acetone for good measure glue both halves and set somewhere warm to dry.

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#4 Stuart G.

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 04:32 AM

Yes - no different than installing any standard bore head in the shaft.

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#5 rouski12

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 06:27 AM

When I installed mine the first time, I hit the back of the golf dome with the driver head.. HA. Make sure you install the sleeve and let the shaft and sleeve sit for 24 hours before installing into the head (I think this is where I screwed up).


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#6 Johnny4379

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 11:21 AM

Ok a side note, can you pull the adapters and swap them w/o a puller?
Gotta change out all my old ones for the new R1s.
First apple and now TM.. it's a damn conspiracy !!

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#7 Stuart G.

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 11:55 AM

View PostJohnny4379, on 08 March 2013 - 11:21 AM, said:

Ok a side note, can you pull the adapters and swap them w/o a puller?
Gotta change out all my old ones for the new R1s.
First apple and now TM.. it's a damn conspiracy !!

It's possible but
1) you can run the same risk of damaging the shaft as you would pulling w/o an extractor with any other head.
and
2) It's almost impossible to pull w/o melting the plastic ferrule so you'll need to get a replacement ferrule to re-use (doesn't sound like an issue to you).

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#8 Johnny4379

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 02:08 PM

Thanks for the info.
I'm not down with ruining these shafts like I am with pulling stock shafts out if heads so ill just drop them off and have them done since I don't own a puller yet
Thanks again sorry to jack the post

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#9 DBruce11

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 01:42 PM

Do you have to use a certain epoxy or will any kind work?
Taylormade Jetspeed TP 10.5* w/ Fujikura Speeder 661
Taylormade SLDR 3HL TP 17* w/ Fujikura Speeder VC 7.0
Taylormade Tour Preferred UDI 18* w/ KBS C-Taper Lite
Taylormade Tour Preferred MC 4-PW w/ DG XP S300
Taylormade Tour Preferred Wedges 50*, 54*, 58*
Taylormade Spider Blade Counterbalance 32

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#10 quakergolfer24

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 12:43 AM

if you're near a golfsmith get the tour epoxy. its supposed to dry quicker and be alittle tougher. that's what i've been using and that's what the clubmakers use at the stores. good stuff.

also i have had no problem pulling the taylormade tips. those are the only ones that come out easy without breaking because they are not built the same as the titleist or callys. just be careful, use a shaft extractor if you have one and a low heat gun, head off.

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#11 RookieBlue7

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 08:51 AM

View PostJohnny4379, on 08 March 2013 - 02:08 PM, said:

Thanks for the info.
I'm not down with ruining these shafts like I am with pulling stock shafts out if heads so ill just drop them off and have them done since I don't own a puller yet
Thanks again sorry to jack the post

It can be done without a puller and the ferrule saved too.  I've done both.

Way to do it? Get a screw that threads in the adapter. Put a washer on that screw. Either use a device to grab hold of it (a piece of 1x1/4x6 bar stock works fine with a hole drilled in it that the screw will go through). Once that's on there, simple wrap the ferrule with a wet wash cloth (cold water) and heat for 30-45 seconds. Holding the bar stock you've made (or simple tighter a crescent wrench down on the screw's shaft), smack it firmly a few times with a hammer (I like using a 24 oz rubber headed hammer personally). If it doesn't move, add heat in 15-20 second increments until it moves. Once it does move, it's warm enough to tap tap tap to get the adapter off of the shaft.

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#12 Johnny4379

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 09:43 AM

Right on thanks rookie.
Never even thought about attaching something to the adapter and pulling it off. Great idea

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#13 jerryo

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 06:20 PM

View Poststebed, on 07 March 2013 - 06:39 PM, said:

yep prep it all the same as a regular re shaft, abrade the inside of the adapter get the paint off the end of the shaft clean shaft and adapter with acetone for good measure glue both halves and set somewhere warm to dry.
What is the best method to abrade the inside of the adapter and how fine a sandpaper to use on the shaft?

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