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Attempting to MOI match irons with PX flighted shafts


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#1 Golfrnut

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 10:29 PM

Okay, so I finally gotten myself out of buying all kinds of clubs, but now that I have all this club making equipment all I want to do is tweak things.  Next on the list is trying my hand at MOI matching and seeing what the hype is all about.


I understand the the 1.3 SW points per inch across the set, makes sense and easy enough.  Now, of course, I am just experimenting so I am working under the "poor mans" method of giving this a shot.  What I don't know about is how to make sure everything is done correctly with regards to doing it when using flighted shafts that are in descending weight.  Do I need to take this weight into account and does it vary the numbers away from that standard ratio?  Say I have 9 grams of weight difference between my PW and 4 iron. Do I just take into account the normal 9 grams in shaft weight = 1 swing weight point and divide that up across the high and low points of the swing weight spectrum?  Was this already taken into account when someone originally did the math?  I am a little lost here trying to figure it all out so if someone can lay it out for me I would greatly appreciate it.

Edited by Golfrnut, 25 February 2013 - 10:30 PM.

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#2 Golfrnut

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 05:57 PM

C'mon...  :)

No one here has run into this before?

Tom?  Anyone?
Taylormade SLDR 9.5 w/ stiff Speeder 57
Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
Bridgestone J40 CB 4-PW w/ Steelfiber
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Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

#3 jaskanski

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 04:34 AM

I don't hold any faith in MOI matching for irons - for flighted shafts too, it makes even less sense IMO.
For a quick and dirty way to "MOI" them yourself, just add 0.5 swing weight points to each club lol. For accurate MOI calculations, you're probably wasting your time without an Auditor machine and associated software.
As always, the search function is best in these cases:
http://www.golfwrx.c...hing-iron-sets/

#4 BrianL99

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 05:42 AM

View PostGolfrnut, on 25 February 2013 - 10:29 PM, said:

Okay, so I finally gotten myself out of buying all kinds of clubs, but now that I have all this club making equipment all I want to do is tweak things.  Next on the list is trying my hand at MOI matching and seeing what the hype is all about.


I understand the the 1.3 SW points per inch across the set, makes sense and easy enough.  Now, of course, I am just experimenting so I am working under the "poor mans" method of giving this a shot.  What I don't know about is how to make sure everything is done correctly with regards to doing it when using flighted shafts that are in descending weight.  Do I need to take this weight into account and does it vary the numbers away from that standard ratio?  Say I have 9 grams of weight difference between my PW and 4 iron. Do I just take into account the normal 9 grams in shaft weight = 1 swing weight point and divide that up across the high and low points of the swing weight spectrum?  Was this already taken into account when someone originally did the math?  I am a little lost here trying to figure it all out so if someone can lay it out for me I would greatly appreciate it.

I don't think there's really any way to accomplish your goal, without a Speed Auditor ... especially with AW shafts.  You can try to maintain the 1.3 SW/inch, but the balance point of the shafts is going to be different, which I think will throw the entire premise off kilter.

#5 mac94

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 05:52 AM

I've tried it. It was a disaster. I'd just stick to SW if I were you.


#6 Howard Jones

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 06:32 AM

Its not that easy....

First you have to find out what MOI value the clubs should have, but OK just find a club in you set you just love to swing the way it feels, and go from there. Lets for the example sake say that this is your 7 iron and you play 3-GW to full swing.

All clubs longer than your 7 iron would then need weight reduction progressively by aprox 2/3 of a SW point from the SW value your 7 iron got, and clubs shorter need about 2/3 SW point progression up, but this is the "ghetto method", and then it might look like this if your #7 is D2 now.

#3 = C9 1/3
#4 = D0
#5 = D0 2/3
#6 = D1 1/3
#7 = D2
#8 = D2 2/3
#9 = D3 1/3
PW =D4
GW= D4 2/3

Your set of flighted got Heavy long irons, and light short irons, with a steeper weight slope and larger difference than other descending weight sets, and in my example you will have to remove 8-9 grams from the hosel of the #3 iron head to get SW down to C9 1/3, so you will not be able to make it, unless you starts to mess with different grip weights to trick the scale, but then they will not feel as MOI matched or close to it, because total weight will go up in the long, and down in the short, so the end line is, forget it with PX flighted or anything else, unless you can use heads with weight ports who net weight is low enough to make that #3 iron.

Edited by Howard Jones, 27 February 2013 - 06:35 AM.


#7 Golfrnut

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 10:17 AM

View PostHoward Jones, on 27 February 2013 - 06:32 AM, said:

Its not that easy.... First you have to find out what MOI value the clubs should have, but OK just find a club in you set you just love to swing the way it feels, and go from there. Lets for the example sake say that this is your 7 iron and you play 3-GW to full swing. All clubs longer than your 7 iron would then need weight reduction progressively by aprox 2/3 of a SW point from the SW value your 7 iron got, and clubs shorter need about 2/3 SW point progression up, but this is the "ghetto method", and then it might look like this if your #7 is D2 now. #3 = C9 1/3 #4 = D0 #5 = D0 2/3 #6 = D1 1/3 #7 = D2 #8 = D2 2/3 #9 = D3 1/3 PW =D4 GW= D4 2/3 Your set of flighted got Heavy long irons, and light short irons, with a steeper weight slope and larger difference than other descending weight sets, and in my example you will have to remove 8-9 grams from the hosel of the #3 iron head to get SW down to C9 1/3, so you will not be able to make it, unless you starts to mess with different grip weights to trick the scale, but then they will not feel as MOI matched or close to it, because total weight will go up in the long, and down in the short, so the end line is, forget it with PX flighted or anything else, unless you can use heads with weight ports who net weight is low enough to make that #3 iron.


Thank you for the reply Howard.  And thanks to those above that replied also.

This was only a lead tape experiment so not much lost and just more of an interest and "curiosity" thing than anything else.

I am actually a person that seems to do better with a heavier swing weight even though I am not that big of a person.  The weight keeps me a little smoother as I get a lot of body motion when I have something lighter.  So my four iron actually starts at a D3.5.  Makes it a little easier not removing weight.

I did a little tweaking last night and here's where I am at.  I may be wrong in my theory but I actually went up to a 3/4 swingweight difference to adjust for total shaft weight however I may/may not have been correct.  No big deal, only a test.

4 - D3.5 - 422(static weights)
5 - D4.25 - 428
6 - D5 - 431
7 - D5.75 - 443
8 - D6.5 - 451
9 - D7.25 - 457
P - D8 - 465

All are pretty close to the 6-8 gram measurement ecept for that silly 6 iron and I don't know why the swingweight is where it is with the total weight number that I have but it is what it is.
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#8 Golfrnut

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 06:53 AM

Small follow up...

I likwe where the weights are at and played Sunday morning.  Wasn't hitting the ball that well(not the clubs, struggle with swinging too much into out and not around the body which gets me into an occasional fit of the shanks).  Something was still off with the 6 iron though.  I think that thing is the devil.  Added the lead tape to get the weight up but that was the one club that I hit toe hits every time I pulled the club.  Probably some mental, but it wasn't putting me into a happy place for sure.  Will have to investigate further...
Taylormade SLDR 9.5 w/ stiff Speeder 57
Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
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Scratch 53/58 wedges w/ Steelfiber i80
Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

#9 RichieHunt

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 09:30 AM

I own a MOI machine.  I’m not a full time clubmaker.  I bought the machine for my own clubs and occasionally MOI fit and MOI match clubs and build some sets occasionally as well.  MOI fitting and matching is one of the most favorite things I’ve discovered in the game.  With swingweight matching I was always left with more questions than answers.  With MOI matching, I saw a dramatic improvement in my ballstriking throughout my set.  The consistency improved dramatically.


With that said, I think you need to learn how to properly MOI fit yourself first.


If you don’t have a machine, try to use the MOI formula.  You basically want to use a 6-iron in your fitting, but it’s more important to find the lowest (or one of the lowest) MOI irons in your set.  That’s because if your optimal MOI is 2,750 and your trying to fit with a club that is at 2,780, then you’re not using the proper club to determine your optimal MOI.


For me, I use Wishon irons and they have very light heads so it’s easier to build a set that way.  I know Mizuno has different head weight options (light, heavy and medium).  I have the light in an old set of MP-62’s and the head weights were super light, about 7-grams lighter than Wishon heads.  I also have some Titleist heads and they were heavier than the Wishon heads by 4-5 grams (which is probably standard).  What you *should* see is clubhead weights in 7-gram increments (believe me, the OEM’s don’t always work that way).


Anyway…


Grab a 6-iron (or a club fairly low in MOI), some impact tape and get some high density lead tape and cut that into a bunch of 1-inch strips (1-inch = 1 gram).


Without any lead tape on the 6-iron, hit some shots with impact tape.  Remove the impact tape and put it on a sheet of paper (for reference).  Now, add 1-gram of lead tape to the head, get some new impact tape.  Hit 3-5 shots.  Remove the impact tape, put that on the piece of paper.  Add another 1-gram strip of lead tape and impact tape.  Hit 3-5 shots.  Remove the impact tape.


Rinse and repeat.


Your impact dispersion will improve as you get closer to your optimal MOI.

Posted Image

Posted Image

What will happen is as you add weight to the head, the closer you will get to your optimal MOI and your impact dispersion will improve.  Once you add too much weight, the impact dispersion will get larger because the club is now too hefty for your golf swing.

If you get caught between weights (say 3 strips vs. 4 strips of lead tape added); look at the ball flight and make that the decision based upon that.

With hybrids, fairways and drivers...the MOI will NOT match the irons.  Different shafts, different lengths and the different clubhead properties.

The only problem that flight shafts present is that the balace (often referred to as MOI Balance Index) will alter a bit.  You will hit them better because they are MOI fitted and matched, but the final step is understanding MOI Balance Index for the ultimate fitting.









RH

#10 Golfrnut

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 10:00 AM

Thank you for the post RH, that leg-work has already been accomplished.

As in my posts above, the questions arose as in how to account for the ascending weight of shafts to find the right numbers using the "math" method as opposed to an MOI machine.  Also, the flighted shafts had more of an impact than that.  Because the clubs were swingweight balanced before, it varied the overall results as far as the heft numbers go as you can see by the charted numbers I posted above.  Even with a 3/4 SW difference, the iron heft weights did not show up as planned. As you can see with the 6 iron, it got weird numbers through the set for only reasons that I can attribute to shaft weight variences as the head/swing weights are where they should be to have uniform numbers across the set.  This didn't happen however I am not sure exactly why.

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Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
Bridgestone J40 CB 4-PW w/ Steelfiber
Scratch 53/58 wedges w/ Steelfiber i80
Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

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#11 RichieHunt

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 10:43 AM

View PostGolfrnut, on 07 March 2013 - 10:00 AM, said:

Thank you for the post RH, that leg-work has already been accomplished.

As in my posts above, the questions arose as in how to account for the ascending weight of shafts to find the right numbers using the "math" method as opposed to an MOI machine.  Also, the flighted shafts had more of an impact than that.  Because the clubs were swingweight balanced before, it varied the overall results as far as the heft numbers go as you can see by the charted numbers I posted above.  Even with a 3/4 SW difference, the iron heft weights did not show up as planned. As you can see with the 6 iron, it got weird numbers through the set for only reasons that I can attribute to shaft weight variences as the head/swing weights are where they should be to have uniform numbers across the set.  This didn't happen however I am not sure exactly why.

I've run into some of that from time to time.  I use 3/8" shaft increments instead of 1/2".  I found it easier to MOI match and it felt better with the short irons (I'm 6'4" tall).

Here's what my static weights look like.  My 6-iron is 38" long (w/grip) and going in 3/8" increments from there.  I use Wishon 555 irons (3&4-iron are CB, 5-AW are MB).  Everything else is the same.

3-iron: 411 grams
4-iron: 417 grams
5-iron: 423 grams
6-iron: 429 grams
7-iron: 435 grams
8-iron: 439 grams
9-iron: 445 grams
PW: 451 grams

There's probably some slight error going on.  Perhaps the shaft or the head is a little heavier than it normally should be (Quality Control issue) or maybe the shaft was cut a little longer (human error) or the balance point was a little off in the shaft or the CoG of the head may be off or the grip is a little heavier than normal, etc.

And that's using a MOI machine to read the numbers.






RH

#12 Golfrnut

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 11:02 AM

Yeah, without breaking everything down across the set to compare, I really am not sure.

I am not exactly sure where focus should be on either.  At a 1/2"t;, which is what these are, the suggested number is 8 grams difference in head weights.  When you figure in the half inch, I am guessing you will get around 7 as a overall heft difference all else being equal? As you can see above, I am not there yet on most of them.  Averages are running right around 6 grams, and that is at a .75 SW point difference which is odd.  If I rely on heft weight to get the numbers I am going to end up with a huge swingweight spectrum in order to get there.  I am really not exactly sure if that will be correct or not.

Edited by Golfrnut, 07 March 2013 - 11:11 AM.

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Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
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Scratch 53/58 wedges w/ Steelfiber i80
Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

#13 RichieHunt

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:58 PM

I think it's a MUST to get the component information, particularly each clubhead's weight.  If you really want the ultimate in fitting and quality control, I believe you have to get that information.

According to Tom Wishon, his company has tight clubhead weight tolerances.  I can't remember the exact tolerance, I'm thinking +/- 1 gram from what the specs say.  I know from buying his components they weigh each head to the nearest tenth of a gram and put a sticker on the head to show how much it weighs and the tolerances have always been very tight from my experience.

Having worked on other OEM clubs, I haven't always seen that.

I have a set of Mizuno MP-62's.  What surprised me about the head weights was just how light they were.  Mizuno offers head weights in 3-options (light, heavy, moderate).  I had the light option and the heads were 7-grams lighter than Wishon irons head weights and Wishon's heads are some of the lightest in the industry.  I actually think this is part of the reason why Mizuno has such fans for their irons...they can make them light enough so that the fitting is easier since all they have to do is add weight.

The MP-62's I have are pretty accurate in their tolerances.  Most of them were in 7-gram increments.  I got a weird 8.5 gram increment and then a 6 gram increment in a 3-club grouping, but other than that they were fine.  Most of the Mizuno's have fairly good tolerances like my MP-62's from the ones I've worked on.  I would consider Mizuno's tolerances to be some of the better for OEM's.  Again, probably why Mizuno's are so popular.

I have a set of Titleist 690MB's and old 962 (cavity backs, cast).  Their heads are much heavier.  They are abou 3-8 grams heavier than Wishon's specs. Soooo, they are wayyyy heavier heads than Mizuno.  And I used '3-8 grams' because the tolerances were poor IMO.  Some of the head weights were well off incremental wise.  I think I got as low of an increment as 3-grams and as high as 10-grams.

Ugh.

I haven't really tested a lot of shots, particularly for trimmed static weight.  I was talking to a clubmaker who was telling me how much he loved Wishon's shafts because he felt the tolerances were top notch.  I guess if the OEM's have trouble with head weight tolerances, then they could have issues with shaft weight and shaft balance point tolerances.

Lots and lots of factors that could come into play.

The removing of the heads from the shafts is fairly easy.  If you can't do it, I would recommend going to a local golf store and seeing if they could just detach the shafts from the heads.  You can then measure the head and shaft properties (weights, shaft balance point with the grip on, etc) and re-install them which is super easy.

I would also suggest you may want to take your clubs to a person with an MOI machine just to better double check your work.










RH

#14 Kacee

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 04:02 PM

Note that it is not 2 grams per swing weight accross all the clubs, you need to bring clublength into play, too. At 39.5", it's only 1.95 grams per swing weight, but at 36", you need 2.26 grams for one swing weight. I have chart here but forgot where I got it.

#15 Golfrnut

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 04:31 PM

View PostRichieHunt, on 07 March 2013 - 03:58 PM, said:

......

RH

I am plenty confident in doing my own club work.  I have paid quite a bit of money invested in that so no worries.

As I said earlier, it was more of an experiment than anything.  I feel pretty confident I would not have the issues with other shafts, these are just trickey which is fine.  I am probably a few months away from opening a small club fitting/repair business in my area and wanted to give it a shot.  Knowledge is power and if I experiment now, that is all the more prepared I am in the long run.

Just kind of suprised I haven't seen more experiences out there of people trying it before.

Edited by Golfrnut, 07 March 2013 - 04:36 PM.

Taylormade SLDR 9.5 w/ stiff Speeder 57
Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
Bridgestone J40 CB 4-PW w/ Steelfiber
Scratch 53/58 wedges w/ Steelfiber i80
Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

#16 Golfrnut

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 04:40 PM

Thinking about it, I do have a questions.  Part of the MOI procedure is to even out balance points evenly across the set yes? So it would be feasible to check the MOI as it relates to the set by matching these up? When/If they are matched, all should have relatively evenly spaced balance points if measured from point to butt end correct?  Or am I misunderstanding?

Edited by Golfrnut, 07 March 2013 - 05:18 PM.

Taylormade SLDR 9.5 w/ stiff Speeder 57
Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
Bridgestone J40 CB 4-PW w/ Steelfiber
Scratch 53/58 wedges w/ Steelfiber i80
Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

#17 lbj273

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 05:15 PM

View PostRichieHunt, on 07 March 2013 - 09:30 AM, said:

I own a MOI machine.  I’m not a full time clubmaker.  I bought the machine for my own clubs and occasionally MOI fit and MOI match clubs and build some sets occasionally as well.  MOI fitting and matching is one of the most favorite things I’ve discovered in the game.  With swingweight matching I was always left with more questions than answers.  With MOI matching, I saw a dramatic improvement in my ballstriking throughout my set.  The consistency improved dramatically.


With that said, I think you need to learn how to properly MOI fit yourself first.


If you don’t have a machine, try to use the MOI formula.  You basically want to use a 6-iron in your fitting, but it’s more important to find the lowest (or one of the lowest) MOI irons in your set.  That’s because if your optimal MOI is 2,750 and your trying to fit with a club that is at 2,780, then you’re not using the proper club to determine your optimal MOI.


For me, I use Wishon irons and they have very light heads so it’s easier to build a set that way.  I know Mizuno has different head weight options (light, heavy and medium).  I have the light in an old set of MP-62’s and the head weights were super light, about 7-grams lighter than Wishon heads.  I also have some Titleist heads and they were heavier than the Wishon heads by 4-5 grams (which is probably standard).  What you *should* see is clubhead weights in 7-gram increments (believe me, the OEM’s don’t always work that way).


Anyway…


Grab a 6-iron (or a club fairly low in MOI), some impact tape and get some high density lead tape and cut that into a bunch of 1-inch strips (1-inch = 1 gram).


Without any lead tape on the 6-iron, hit some shots with impact tape.  Remove the impact tape and put it on a sheet of paper (for reference).  Now, add 1-gram of lead tape to the head, get some new impact tape.  Hit 3-5 shots.  Remove the impact tape, put that on the piece of paper.  Add another 1-gram strip of lead tape and impact tape.  Hit 3-5 shots.  Remove the impact tape.


Rinse and repeat.


Your impact dispersion will improve as you get closer to your optimal MOI.

Posted Image

Posted Image

What will happen is as you add weight to the head, the closer you will get to your optimal MOI and your impact dispersion will improve.  Once you add too much weight, the impact dispersion will get larger because the club is now too hefty for your golf swing.

If you get caught between weights (say 3 strips vs. 4 strips of lead tape added); look at the ball flight and make that the decision based upon that.

With hybrids, fairways and drivers...the MOI will NOT match the irons.  Different shafts, different lengths and the different clubhead properties.

The only problem that flight shafts present is that the balace (often referred to as MOI Balance Index) will alter a bit.  You will hit them better because they are MOI fitted and matched, but the final step is understanding MOI Balance Index for the ultimate fitting.









RH
this makes sense to me, but once you find that optimal weight on the head of your 6 iron, how do you apply that across the rest of the set?

#18 Golfrnut

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 07:32 PM

Okay, so I spawned my own curiousity with my last question so I did some measurements.

I just did a sample and the 4, 5, 6, 7 iron all had a club balance point at 28 9/16" (BP to butt measurement)

Is this a good thing or a bad thing?  Should they all match up the same or should they be spaced a certain amount off one another?
Taylormade SLDR 9.5 w/ stiff Speeder 57
Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
Bridgestone J40 CB 4-PW w/ Steelfiber
Scratch 53/58 wedges w/ Steelfiber i80
Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

#19 RichieHunt

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 08:40 PM

View PostGolfrnut, on 07 March 2013 - 04:40 PM, said:

Thinking about it, I do have a questions.  Part of the MOI procedure is to even out balance points evenly across the set yes? So it would be feasible to check the MOI as it relates to the set by matching these up? When/If they are matched, all should have relatively evenly spaced balance points if measured from point to butt end correct?  Or am I misunderstanding?

That's called 'MOI Balance Index.'

I'm not an expert on it, but when I first started hearing about it I found it to make complete sense.

I really started to notice this when I assembled a Game Improvement 3-iron head for my own use.  I play blades and even though I MOI matched the 3-iron to my gamer set of irons, It didn't quite feel right.  When I looked at the MOI Balance Index spreadsheet by Monte Doherty, I saw that the MOI Balance index WILL change if you're using a Game Improvement head versus a blade style head (same with a regular cavity which is different from all of them).  I also noticed how some grips alter things as well even if the weight of the grip is similar.

I plan on building a new set of irons this Spring and will find the optimal MOI Balance index and match the balance points throughout my entire set.





RH

#20 RichieHunt

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 08:42 PM

View Postlbj273, on 07 March 2013 - 05:15 PM, said:

this makes sense to me, but once you find that optimal weight on the head of your 6 iron, how do you apply that across the rest of the set?

It's about finding the right MOI, not the right weight.

I can have 2-clubs, same length and static weight, but very different MOI's because it's where the weight is distributed throughout the club.

So once you find the 6-iron weight, measure the MOI and then match the rest of the set to that MOI.






RH


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#21 dogsbe

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 09:48 PM

Seriously, for a DIY building an MOI match set.  I think it is too easy to get caught up with the maths.  I do not see getting the numbers right as the goal, instead the goal is to increase the consistency on center hits.   With the test method posted above, just keep adding weight until you find the point that you are most consistent with center hits.

If you want to double check you work, chuck your clubs on a swingweight scale, check to see if there is a pattern and compare the pattern against an MOI calculation.

"People don't want 0.5 inch drill bits, they want 0.5 inch holes".  We don't want MOI matched irons, we want more center hits.

#22 lbj273

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 01:09 AM

View Postdogsbe, on 07 March 2013 - 09:48 PM, said:

Seriously, for a DIY building an MOI match set.  I think it is too easy to get caught up with the maths.  I do not see getting the numbers right as the goal, instead the goal is to increase the consistency on center hits.   With the test method posted above, just keep adding weight until you find the point that you are most consistent with center hits.

If you want to double check you work, chuck your clubs on a swingweight scale, check to see if there is a pattern and compare the pattern against an MOI calculation.

"People don't want 0.5 inch drill bits, they want 0.5 inch holes".  We don't want MOI matched irons, we want more center hits.
so you suggest doing the lead tape and impact tape throughout the set?

#23 dogsbe

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 01:22 AM

View Postlbj273, on 08 March 2013 - 01:09 AM, said:

View Postdogsbe, on 07 March 2013 - 09:48 PM, said:

Seriously, for a DIY building an MOI match set.  I think it is too easy to get caught up with the maths.  I do not see getting the numbers right as the goal, instead the goal is to increase the consistency on center hits.   With the test method posted above, just keep adding weight until you find the point that you are most consistent with center hits.

If you want to double check you work, chuck your clubs on a swingweight scale, check to see if there is a pattern and compare the pattern against an MOI calculation.

"People don't want 0.5 inch drill bits, they want 0.5 inch holes".  We don't want MOI matched irons, we want more center hits.
so you suggest doing the lead tape and impact tape throughout the set?

Yup, then see what you get and take it form there.

#24 RichieHunt

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 09:17 AM

I use hosel weights and lead tape.

But first, the idea about MOI matching is that it will provide a tighter impact dispersion because you find your optimal MOI with a 6-iron and then match the rest of the *irons* to that.  I need to take some pictures of the wear on my irons.  I assembled the 7-iron first because I wanted to try the shaft out (Wishon Stepless Steel Stiff flex).

I tried it out for a while without MOI matching the club.  Then I purchased the rest of the set and MOI matched the entire set.

The wear on the 7-iron is all over the face.  But with the rest it's a very tight dispersion, roughly the same size as this pic

Posted Image

For me, there is still a difference in performance with some of the clubs even though they are MOI matched.  The impact dispersion is great thanks to the MOI matching, but if I miss I usually miss either a little too low or too high on the face.  And some of the irons have a better ball flight than others.

I chalk the final, small but somewhat noticeable differences to the MOI Balance Index being a little off.

The Excel Spreadsheet for MOI Balance Index can be found here.

http://www.agcpgolf.com/gcv2p5.xls

If you read the spreadsheet, you'll notice many things that are a factor in your Balance Index of a club.

One of the things I noticed was that the best performing clubs in my MOI matched set do not have lead tape in the back.  I was able to match those irons simply by using hosel weights with no extra lead tape necessary.  And if you look on the spreadsheet, the MOI Balance Index will alter if you use lead tape versus using a hosel weight.









RH

#25 RichieHunt

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 09:21 AM

View Postlbj273, on 08 March 2013 - 01:09 AM, said:


so you suggest doing the lead tape and impact tape throughout the set?

Yes.

But, your optimal MOI will be HIGHER with the driver and the fairway woods than it is with the irons (and wedges).  Essentially, if the shaft model changes in the club, your MOI will likely change.

Also, you won't likely get the impact dispersion as tight with the driver as with the irons.  The club is much longer and swung at a faster speed.

The impact dispersion will get tighter, just not as tight.  However, the ball flight should improve tremendously.

I recommend with the driver to wrap the lead tape around the hosel when fitting for MOI.  Then once you find the right MOI with the driver, you can remove the shaft and install a tip weight if you want.








RH


#26 lbj273

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 11:56 PM

Great thanks! Just looking to tighten up the dispersion on the face of my irons, wear spots are decent but if I can get them as tight as the pic you have I'll be a very happy camper

#27 Golfrnut

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 10:01 PM

Well, after some time anduse with them, I decided I needed to drop the SW back down to my original numbers.  The left elbow just can't deal with what I have now.  Ever since I upped the swing weight, I have had a little pain in the left elbow on and off.  Never had the issue before, so I am throwing part of the blame on the weight.  Not sure where I will stand as far as consistency goes with on-center hits thru the set, but time will tell.  In an effort to get everything as close as I can, I actually tore down everything this time and spec'd it out.  I now have everything as close as I can get it, all things being considered with the different BP thru the shafts.  I was kind of suprised at the shaft wt numbers I got, they were all over the place.  In any event, here is a pic of the finished table.  As it turns out, I wasn't too far off in the way I had everything prior to when I used the "ghetto" method.



New Bitmap Image (5).jpg
Taylormade SLDR 9.5 w/ stiff Speeder 57
Callaway 3 Deep 14.5 w/ PXv 6.0
Stage 2 18.5/21.5  rescue w/ Steelfiber
Bridgestone J40 CB 4-PW w/ Steelfiber
Scratch 53/58 wedges w/ Steelfiber i80
Odyssey Protype 2-Ball

#28 PJ72

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 05:13 PM

View PostRichieHunt, on 08 March 2013 - 09:17 AM, said:

I use hosel weights and lead tape.

But first, the idea about MOI matching is that it will provide a tighter impact dispersion because you find your optimal MOI with a 6-iron and then match the rest of the *irons* to that.  I need to take some pictures of the wear on my irons.  I assembled the 7-iron first because I wanted to try the shaft out (Wishon Stepless Steel Stiff flex).

I tried it out for a while without MOI matching the club.  Then I purchased the rest of the set and MOI matched the entire set.

The wear on the 7-iron is all over the face.  But with the rest it's a very tight dispersion, roughly the same size as this pic

Posted Image

For me, there is still a difference in performance with some of the clubs even though they are MOI matched.  The impact dispersion is great thanks to the MOI matching, but if I miss I usually miss either a little too low or too high on the face.  And some of the irons have a better ball flight than others.

I chalk the final, small but somewhat noticeable differences to the MOI Balance Index being a little off.

The Excel Spreadsheet for MOI Balance Index can be found here.

http://www.agcpgolf.com/gcv2p5.xls

If you read the spreadsheet, you'll notice many things that are a factor in your Balance Index of a club.

One of the things I noticed was that the best performing clubs in my MOI matched set do not have lead tape in the back.  I was able to match those irons simply by using hosel weights with no extra lead tape necessary.  And if you look on the spreadsheet, the MOI Balance Index will alter if you use lead tape versus using a hosel weight.









RH

Just wanted to say what a great post and also wanted to bump this thread so that I could find it easier in the future.




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