Jump to content

Welcome. You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with members, access to all forums and eligiblility to win free giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

- - - - -

Club Building.... Your best tips/tricks of the trade!!


59 replies to this topic

#31 treadwej

treadwej

    Trey #takeitdeep

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 381 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 22797
  • Joined: 12/15/2006
  • Location:Haymarket, VA
  • Handicap:+1.8
  • Ebay ID:treadwej
GolfWRX Likes : 13

Posted 06 March 2013 - 11:13 PM

If you are ever working with composite heads with Titanium faces (Cally and Cobra come to mind), you want to wrap the head with a wet towel (rag, not paper) prior to heating the hozel. (similar to above reference with a ferrule).  The bond between the comp heads and titanium faces and soles could be compromised if you don't.  It's happened to me.

SLDR 430 10.5*/9*; 7M3x/PX LZ 70 6.5
SLDR TS 14* Diamana Ahina 80x
SLDR Tour 3 Hybrid 19*; Aldila NV 105X
Callaway X Forged (2013) C-Taper X ss1x
Callaway MD2 - 51; X100 (8i)

Callaway PM Grind - 55; S400 (tipped 0.25")

Callaway MD2 - 61; S400 (tipped 0.25")
Rife Barbados Tropical Counter-Balanced - 39"


Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


Wanna get rid of this ugly yellow box? And remove other annoying "stuff" in between posts? Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

1

#32 Big_Ben77

Big_Ben77

    WHAMMY!!

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 76 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 125674
  • Joined: 03/31/2011
  • Location:SE Michigan
  • Handicap:7.5
GolfWRX Likes : 8

Posted 04 April 2016 - 12:09 PM

Haven't checked this in awhile...

good info here
http://www.golfwrx.c...rom-tom-wishon/

2

#33 smellysell

smellysell

    I Hate Golf

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 596 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 173830
  • Joined: 04/08/2012
  • Location:Helena, MT
GolfWRX Likes : 46

Posted 04 April 2016 - 12:28 PM

View PostHISPL, on 23 February 2013 - 07:29 AM, said:

Oh, Double sided tape can be a bear to work with if you are trying to remove a grip and save it.

We use Bostik contact cement, it is a heck of a lot quicker than tape and won't budge once it is on but if you want to use air to get the grip back off it is MUCH easier and it is compatible with normal grip solvent for the guys that want to use a syringe.

Yep, can use contact cement with an air compressor to install and don't need solvent too.

3

#34 mvhoffman

mvhoffman

    Mikey

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 745 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 239415
  • Joined: 03/19/2013
  • Location:NEPA
  • Handicap:10
GolfWRX Likes : 155

Posted 04 April 2016 - 12:51 PM

Here are a few tips for ya...
  • Always start with clean surfaces (make sure to remove all grip tape prior to regripping)
  • Make sure to properly prep tips prior to gluing.  install the unprepped tip into the head, make a mark and prep tip to mark made.  Don't cut corners.  Prep the entire surface and you will not have to worry about an "oops"
  • Make sure to properly and completely mix your Epoxy
  • Have patience... Wait till everything is set and cured.
  • When gripping, if you don't have an eye for it, make a jig so that the club sits in the vice square so all you have to do is slide the grip on.
  • I use lighter fluid as opposed to grip solvent.  It is personal preference, but I prefer lighter fluid.
  • Best advice I can give you is find one distributor to get all of your stuff from.  Epoxy, grip tape, lead tape, etc.  The key to building/modifying is consistency.  I believe that if you change products, it changes consistency.  Consistency is the key.
Good luck man.  It is a fun hobby.  There are a lot of GREAT builders on here, Some of the best in the world actually.  Take advantage of the site for all it is worth.

Welcome to the club!!

Mike

Edited by mvhoffman, 04 April 2016 - 12:55 PM.

  • Driver: Cobra Amp 10.5 w Aldilla RIP Phenom R1 S shaft
  • Adams Speed Fast 12 19* w Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue R shaft
  • Adams Super XTD 22* hybrid w White Matrix Ozik Program S shaft
  • Cobra Amp Cell Silver 5 - GW w TT Dynalite 90 tipped R/S shafts
  • Cobra Amp Cell S wedge w TW multi material Graphite tipped shaft
  • Callaway MD PM grind 60* wedge w TW multi material Graphite tipped shaft
  • Scotty Cameron Studio Select 1.5 w Super Stroke Claw grip
  • Wilson 50 Elite Golf Ball

4

#35 dunn

dunn

    Major Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,384 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 124833
  • Joined: 03/19/2011
  • Location:so cal
  • Handicap:5
GolfWRX Likes : 853

Posted 04 April 2016 - 03:38 PM

View PostNessism, on 24 February 2013 - 08:49 AM, said:

Fiberglass drywall tape makes a good shim substitute (installing a .335 shaft in a .350 hosel, or .355 in .370).  Not my idea, read it here.

3M DP 420/460 epoxy has a lap shear of 4800 psi after cure.  Over kill maybe, but very high quality stuff.

Slow dry epoxy can be speed cured by placing a couple of light bulbs (old style type, not new fangled low power type) next to the club.  60 min. @ 140 F and that DP460 will be up to 4500 psi.
I might try that, now I just use a torch on hosel....low setting and just get hosel warm....works good but pain to reach front and back off a whole set

With fibreglass tape, there is 3 different thicknesses, don't get cement board fibre tape it is thicker.....there is white and yellow, believe white is thinnest

Edited by dunn, 04 April 2016 - 03:48 PM.


5

#36 dunn

dunn

    Major Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,384 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 124833
  • Joined: 03/19/2011
  • Location:so cal
  • Handicap:5
GolfWRX Likes : 853

Posted 04 April 2016 - 03:44 PM

View Postxathanasi, on 26 February 2013 - 06:07 PM, said:

1) Blowing on and off grips is a great time saver. Be careful with the light grips because they are very thin and tend to pop. Wear eye protection and get a sheath or cover of some kind for safety. Search for how-to info.

2) Build a Clubhoroto! Rick Isaacs designed the thing - I built one about 8 or 10 years ago and it is awesome. I have absolute confidence that I will never ruin a shaft (and I haven't yet). It's a device that holds and spins the club (using a BBQ rotisserie) and holds the heat gun your desired distance from the hosel. Calibrate the heatgun by holding it a certain distance from a candy thermometer (2" for mine and 3" for Rick's) and let it heat up for 5 min. If it's in the 260-290*F range you are good to go. 300*F or above and it's too hot for graphite shafts. 8-10 minutes usually works just fine. (Don't forget to heat and remove the ferrule first.) Take it out and slap it in your puller, and, presto!

Attachment ClubHoRoto.pdf

3) Do not cut shafts to length until after you have tipped them, epoxied them and the epoxy is set.

4) If a shaft is sliding in your puller either the epoxy wasn't cooked enough, or you simply need to wrap one layer of copy paper (or slightly thicker) around the shaft. That'll usually add enough friction to get the job done.

5) Have fun! There's no use having a hobby like this if you're always frustrated when things don't go as planned.

Hope these help.

X
I just put a torch on flat surface with flame med and spin the club myself around the flame.....

Alot of tricks I learned building houses have come in handy building golf clubs.....building is building general rules apply no matter what it is

Edited by dunn, 04 April 2016 - 03:45 PM.


6

#37 Eustace1080

Eustace1080

    Member

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 77 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 138416
  • Joined: 09/04/2011
GolfWRX Likes : 16

Posted 04 April 2016 - 04:59 PM

Great info in this thread.  I will be sure to reference it when the time comes for me to start building.

7

#38 Kingcat990

Kingcat990

    European Tailored Golf Socks

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,643 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 291815
  • Joined: 01/14/2014
  • Location:Orange County/ Wyoming
GolfWRX Likes : 762

Posted 04 April 2016 - 06:48 PM

Don't use tour epoxy
Wyoming Cowboys

8

#39 JackP35

JackP35

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 15 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 417202
  • Joined: 03/25/2016
  • Location:Northwest Suburbs, Chicago
GolfWRX Likes : 8

Posted 04 April 2016 - 08:46 PM

Thanks for bumping this Big Ben! Some good info in here.
D: Callaway XR 9°
4W: Tour Edge Exotics XCG-V
7W: Taylormade Burner
5I-GW: Ping G25
54°&58°: Callaway MD2 Tour Grind
P: Scotty Cameron Studio Stainless Newport 2.5

9

#40 jdawgttu

jdawgttu

    Advanced

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 280 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 169739
  • Joined: 03/16/2012
  • Location:TX
  • Ebay ID:Jdawgttu20
GolfWRX Likes : 53

Posted 04 April 2016 - 09:51 PM

For the guys turning ferrules without a belt...is acetone still the preferred method?

TM M1 10.5* -- Tour Issue HZRDUS Yellow 76g 6.5
TM M2 15* -- HZRDUS Black 75g 6.0
Cally 815 Alpha 20* [-1/N] -- Fujikura Speeder 865s
TM RSI TP 4-P -- KBS Tour S
TM TP EF 50.09, 52 ATV, 56 ATV -- KBS 610 Black
SC Newport 2 Oil Can

Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


Wanna get rid of this ugly yellow box? And remove other annoying "stuff" in between posts? Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

10

#41 HitaHouse

HitaHouse

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 2230
  • Joined: 07/07/2005
GolfWRX Likes : 1

Posted 04 April 2016 - 10:00 PM

View Postjdawgttu, on 04 April 2016 - 09:51 PM, said:

For the guys turning ferrules without a belt...is acetone still the preferred method?

I use strips of sandpaper to get them close (like shoe shining) then polish with steel wool or acetone.

For the irons I worked on this winter, I made a ferrule depth setter with a coupling nut, socket head cap screw, and a jam nut.  Worked great.  All the ferrules were exactly the same depth.

11

#42 Big_Ben77

Big_Ben77

    WHAMMY!!

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 76 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 125674
  • Joined: 03/31/2011
  • Location:SE Michigan
  • Handicap:7.5
GolfWRX Likes : 8

Posted 05 April 2016 - 08:06 AM

View PostHitaHouse, on 04 April 2016 - 10:00 PM, said:

View Postjdawgttu, on 04 April 2016 - 09:51 PM, said:

For the guys turning ferrules without a belt...is acetone still the preferred method?

I use strips of sandpaper to get them close (like shoe shining) then polish with steel wool or acetone.

For the irons I worked on this winter, I made a ferrule depth setter with a coupling nut, socket head cap screw, and a jam nut.  Worked great.  All the ferrules were exactly the same depth.

What grit sandpaper? I find without a lot of practice turning down ferrules with the belt is difficult, always leaving a flat spot.

12

#43 Kelco

Kelco

    Advanced

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 290 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 105018
  • Joined: 03/18/2010
GolfWRX Likes : 50

Posted 05 April 2016 - 11:09 AM

I realize that this comment was posted some years ago, but has anybody worked with contact cement for putting grips on? The original poster said he used Bostik contact cement. How does that work? What is the procedure? How does it come off and what is it like to clean this stuff off a shaft when you need to change grips? I've never seen the stuff, so maybe it's a different consistency than what I'm imagining.  

Edited by Kelco, 05 April 2016 - 11:10 AM.


13

#44 HitaHouse

HitaHouse

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 2230
  • Joined: 07/07/2005
GolfWRX Likes : 1

Posted 05 April 2016 - 11:15 AM

View PostBig_Ben77, on 05 April 2016 - 08:06 AM, said:

View PostHitaHouse, on 04 April 2016 - 10:00 PM, said:

View Postjdawgttu, on 04 April 2016 - 09:51 PM, said:

For the guys turning ferrules without a belt...is acetone still the preferred method?

I use strips of sandpaper to get them close (like shoe shining) then polish with steel wool or acetone.

For the irons I worked on this winter, I made a ferrule depth setter with a coupling nut, socket head cap screw, and a jam nut.  Worked great.  All the ferrules were exactly the same depth.

What grit sandpaper? I find without a lot of practice turning down ferrules with the belt is difficult, always leaving a flat spot.

I start with a ~150 (can be a bit coarse) and finish with a ~220 range.  It will scratch the chrome of the head or shaft so you have to be careful.

14

#45 Nessism

Nessism

    To measure is to know...

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,696 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 131490
  • Joined: 06/23/2011
  • Location:Torrance, CA
  • Handicap:7.4
GolfWRX Likes : 3804

Posted 05 April 2016 - 11:20 AM

Realize that grip size is affected by the thickness of the tape under the grip.  You guys that want to try contact cement might want to throw down a layer of masking tape on the shaft first to replicate the thickness of the double sided tape.  

Regarding sanding ferrules, I use 220 grit cloth sandpaper roll.  As mentioned, mask the hosel first and stay off the shaft.  

Posted Image

Ping G30 driver w/Adila Rogue Silver 60S
TEE XCG7 Beta fairway woods/hybrid
Ping G irons w/Recoil 110's
Glide 55/60 wedges
Putters a plenty - Ping/Odyssey

15

#46 Stuart G.

Stuart G.

    Legend

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,573 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 174728
  • Joined: 04/12/2012
  • Location:New Hampshire
GolfWRX Likes : 2682

Posted 05 April 2016 - 11:48 AM

View PostGolfrnut, on 26 February 2013 - 03:06 PM, said:

Good point on the torch.  I usually just used a head gun, but a torch if you have one is awesome when it comes to irons.  Speeds up the process x10.  Graphite, of course, is still best done with a head gun.

Sorry, but have to disagree with that one.  I work almost exclusively with graphite shafts.  I know it may seem counter-intuitive but it's really just as easy to ruin them with a heat gun as it is with a torch, possibly more so once you've had a few pulls under your belt and got a half way decent feel for how much time it takes with each.

The real key to prevent damage to graphite shafts is using a puller that you can pretension enough so that you know exactly when the glue releases and therefore you know exactly when to stop adding more heat.


View PostRookieBlue7, on 26 February 2013 - 11:06 AM, said:

Always save your excess epoxy to make sure it cured properly. I usually put masking tape on my bench and smear it on the tape after I'm done with the club. Then I write the club its on with a sharpie on the tape. Once it cures and you verify it, simply peel the tape and toss it. No mess.

I like using Dixie cups to mix epoxy in - cut down the sides to whatever height is needed - and then you can easily move it out of the way to dry without worrying about spreading any mess.

Edited by Stuart G., 05 April 2016 - 11:54 AM.


16

#47 Golfrnut

Golfrnut

    Major Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,849 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 132818
  • Joined: 07/12/2011
  • Location:Eastern NC
GolfWRX Likes : 1079

Posted 05 April 2016 - 12:00 PM

View PostStuart G., on 05 April 2016 - 11:48 AM, said:

View PostGolfrnut, on 26 February 2013 - 03:06 PM, said:

Good point on the torch.  I usually just used a head gun, but a torch if you have one is awesome when it comes to irons.  Speeds up the process x10.  Graphite, of course, is still best done with a head gun.

Sorry, but have to disagree with that one.  I work almost exclusively with graphite shafts.  I know it may seem counter-intuitive but it's really just as easy to ruin them with a heat gun as it is with a torch, possibly more so once you've had a few pulls under your belt and got a half way decent feel for how much time it takes with each.

The real key to prevent damage to graphite shafts is using a puller that you can pretension enough so that you know exactly when the glue releases and therefore you know exactly when to stop adding more heat.



Clarification on my part probably would have helped.  I spoke mainly on using a heat gun more so for the painted heads/hosels vs the risk of damaging graphite.  Also kind of lumped graphite together with drivers, which is certainly not the case.  I'll use a torch all day long on graphite when I'm going irons, I just still to this day, don't use them on driver heads.
TM Supertri V2 w/ AD DI/Diamana Kai'Li
Callaway 3Deep w/ 73 BB
TM Aerburner TP 3HL w/ BB 70 S+  
Callaway Apex UT 21* w/ i80 Steelfiber
Callaway RAZR MBs 4-PW w/ Nippon 120S
Callaway MD3 52* & 58* PM grind
Odyssey MXM 1W

17

#48 Nessism

Nessism

    To measure is to know...

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,696 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 131490
  • Joined: 06/23/2011
  • Location:Torrance, CA
  • Handicap:7.4
GolfWRX Likes : 3804

Posted 05 April 2016 - 12:16 PM

I use a torch on everything, including woods.  The idea is to use the least amount of heat possible, and that means focusing the heat into the hosel.  Heat guns spew heat over a wide path unless a small funnel tip is used, which almost nobody has.  

For guys that get knocked knees over using a torch one possible alternate approach is to use a wet cloth to wrap the head, all but the hosel.  And use a second wet cloth on the shaft just upstream of the hosel.  You want to shield these parts from the spewing hot air blast from a wide mouth heat gun.  You can also do this with a torch but it's less important since you can aim the heat much more accurately with a torch.
Ping G30 driver w/Adila Rogue Silver 60S
TEE XCG7 Beta fairway woods/hybrid
Ping G irons w/Recoil 110's
Glide 55/60 wedges
Putters a plenty - Ping/Odyssey

18

#49 smellysell

smellysell

    I Hate Golf

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 596 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 173830
  • Joined: 04/08/2012
  • Location:Helena, MT
GolfWRX Likes : 46

Posted 05 April 2016 - 10:27 PM

View PostNessism, on 05 April 2016 - 11:20 AM, said:

Realize that grip size is affected by the thickness of the tape under the grip.  You guys that want to try contact cement might want to throw down a layer of masking tape on the shaft first to replicate the thickness of the double sided tape.  

Regarding sanding ferrules, I use 220 grit cloth sandpaper roll.  As mentioned, mask the hosel first and stay off the shaft.  


I always use painters tape in conjunction with contact cement. To answer the question a few posts up, I spread some contact cement around on the inside of the grip, spray the tape with some Bramptons and use the air compressor to slide on the grip. If you want to take it off, hit it with the air compressor and it break the bond with the contact cement and slides off pretty easy usually.

19

#50 madaboutgolf

madaboutgolf

    Tour Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 789 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 27259
  • Joined: 03/30/2007
  • Location:england
GolfWRX Likes : 42

Posted 06 April 2016 - 10:41 AM

Can anybody give me some help fitting Winn grips ?  I used the old method of a vice/solvent  and pushing on but found it very hard to get them on ? ruined two trying !! any tips would be great !! thanks.

Taylormade Aeroburner  12*
Taylormade Aeroburner 3HL wood
Callaway x2hot 5 wood
Callaway hawkeye 7 wood
Taylormade RocketBladez 4 to sw
Callaway supersoft
Odyssey Works # 7 /  V line fang putter

Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


Wanna get rid of this ugly yellow box? And remove other annoying "stuff" in between posts? Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

20

#51 03trdblack

03trdblack

    Tour Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 825 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 3549
  • Joined: 07/28/2005
  • Location:Nashville, TN
  • Handicap:3.4
GolfWRX Likes : 120

Posted 06 April 2016 - 01:27 PM

One thing I didn't see listed anywhere in this thread that is VERY valuable advice and is often overlooked is to wear safety glasses and a breathing mask when doing any of your cutting or pulling shafts.  Graphite dust is very dangerous in the lungs and the fumes from heating up epoxy will cause cancer if you do this kind of work long enough.  Also, little tiny pieces of metal, graphite and other nasty things love to fly around and land directly in your eyes.  Nothing hurts more than trying to get a metal burr out of your eye that came flying off a steel shaft you're cutting.  

One time I had a club head literally explode off the end of a shaft and shoot across the room!  It was a used club I purchased and wanted to remove the shaft to put into something else.  The only thing I can figure is someone used gun powder or something else explosive instead of lead powder to swing weight the club.  I was so lucky the force was contained inside the shaft and didn't explode all over me!  Scared the living SH** out of me.  Obviously this won't happen with new components but be careful with other peoples stuff because you just never know.

21

#52 Nessism

Nessism

    To measure is to know...

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,696 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 131490
  • Joined: 06/23/2011
  • Location:Torrance, CA
  • Handicap:7.4
GolfWRX Likes : 3804

Posted 06 April 2016 - 01:56 PM

View Post03trdblack, on 06 April 2016 - 01:27 PM, said:

One thing I didn't see listed anywhere in this thread that is VERY valuable advice and is often overlooked is to wear safety glasses and a breathing mask when doing any of your cutting or pulling shafts.  Graphite dust is very dangerous in the lungs and the fumes from heating up epoxy will cause cancer if you do this kind of work long enough.  Also, little tiny pieces of metal, graphite and other nasty things love to fly around and land directly in your eyes.  Nothing hurts more than trying to get a metal burr out of your eye that came flying off a steel shaft you're cutting.  

One time I had a club head literally explode off the end of a shaft and shoot across the room!  It was a used club I purchased and wanted to remove the shaft to put into something else.  The only thing I can figure is someone used gun powder or something else explosive instead of lead powder to swing weight the club.  I was so lucky the force was contained inside the shaft and didn't explode all over me!  Scared the living SH** out of me.  Obviously this won't happen with new components but be careful with other peoples stuff because you just never know.

Ping irons do that sometimes because the shaft is an interference fit down into the hosel at the bottom.  Heat causes the epoxy to outgas while it's breaking down and the pressure builds up until the head pops and shoots off.  Often times it's just the epoxy that pops and squirts out from the gap from the hosel.  In either case, be careful.
Ping G30 driver w/Adila Rogue Silver 60S
TEE XCG7 Beta fairway woods/hybrid
Ping G irons w/Recoil 110's
Glide 55/60 wedges
Putters a plenty - Ping/Odyssey

22

#53 RookieBlue7

RookieBlue7

    Legend

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 10,299 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 50335
  • Joined: 03/01/2008
  • Location:Euharlee, GA
GolfWRX Likes : 1641

Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:28 PM

View PostStuart G., on 05 April 2016 - 11:48 AM, said:

View PostGolfrnut, on 26 February 2013 - 03:06 PM, said:

Good point on the torch.  I usually just used a head gun, but a torch if you have one is awesome when it comes to irons.  Speeds up the process x10.  Graphite, of course, is still best done with a head gun.

Sorry, but have to disagree with that one.  I work almost exclusively with graphite shafts.  I know it may seem counter-intuitive but it's really just as easy to ruin them with a heat gun as it is with a torch, possibly more so once you've had a few pulls under your belt and got a half way decent feel for how much time it takes with each.

The real key to prevent damage to graphite shafts is using a puller that you can pretension enough so that you know exactly when the glue releases and therefore you know exactly when to stop adding more heat.


View PostRookieBlue7, on 26 February 2013 - 11:06 AM, said:

Always save your excess epoxy to make sure it cured properly. I usually put masking tape on my bench and smear it on the tape after I'm done with the club. Then I write the club its on with a sharpie on the tape. Once it cures and you verify it, simply peel the tape and toss it. No mess.

I like using Dixie cups to mix epoxy in - cut down the sides to whatever height is needed - and then you can easily move it out of the way to dry without worrying about spreading any mess.

I don't use Dixie cups as some epoxies eat the plastic and some get hot and deform the cup. Just me though...  Plus I can use a sharpie and write directly on the tape what club and the time.

Edited by RookieBlue7, 06 April 2016 - 04:29 PM.


23

#54 Golfrnut

Golfrnut

    Major Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,849 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 132818
  • Joined: 07/12/2011
  • Location:Eastern NC
GolfWRX Likes : 1079

Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:32 PM

You guys are too rich for me.  I have always just used scrap cardboard.  I leave whatever I used to mix/apply the epoxy in the unused portion to test the hardness.  :)

But I'm cheap....
TM Supertri V2 w/ AD DI/Diamana Kai'Li
Callaway 3Deep w/ 73 BB
TM Aerburner TP 3HL w/ BB 70 S+  
Callaway Apex UT 21* w/ i80 Steelfiber
Callaway RAZR MBs 4-PW w/ Nippon 120S
Callaway MD3 52* & 58* PM grind
Odyssey MXM 1W

24

#55 jdawgttu

jdawgttu

    Advanced

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 280 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 169739
  • Joined: 03/16/2012
  • Location:TX
  • Ebay ID:Jdawgttu20
GolfWRX Likes : 53

Posted 06 April 2016 - 05:07 PM

View PostGolfrnut, on 06 April 2016 - 04:32 PM, said:

You guys are too rich for me.  I have always just used scrap cardboard.  I leave whatever I used to mix/apply the epoxy in the unused portion to test the hardness.  :)

But I'm cheap....

This is my method as well

TM M1 10.5* -- Tour Issue HZRDUS Yellow 76g 6.5
TM M2 15* -- HZRDUS Black 75g 6.0
Cally 815 Alpha 20* [-1/N] -- Fujikura Speeder 865s
TM RSI TP 4-P -- KBS Tour S
TM TP EF 50.09, 52 ATV, 56 ATV -- KBS 610 Black
SC Newport 2 Oil Can

25

#56 trhode

trhode

    Fitter / Builder

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 1,147 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 67563
  • Joined: 10/13/2008
  • Location:INDY
GolfWRX Likes : 168

Posted 06 April 2016 - 05:19 PM

View PostGolfrnut, on 06 April 2016 - 04:32 PM, said:

You guys are too rich for me.  I have always just used scrap cardboard.  I leave whatever I used to mix/apply the epoxy in the unused portion to test the hardness.  :)

But I'm cheap....

scrap cardboard or really small paper plates work great!

26

#57 HitaHouse

HitaHouse

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 2230
  • Joined: 07/07/2005
GolfWRX Likes : 1

Posted 06 April 2016 - 08:29 PM

View PostGolfrnut, on 06 April 2016 - 04:32 PM, said:

You guys are too rich for me.  I have always just used scrap cardboard.  I leave whatever I used to mix/apply the epoxy in the unused portion to test the hardness.  :)

But I'm cheap....
I use a short section of duct tape, ends folded under and curved like a bowl to hold the epoxy.  I also only use the single use packages.  I don't do enough to use up a larger amount and hope they got the amounts correct of the two parts.

27

#58 millerlitenice

millerlitenice

    Rookie

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 56 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 98451
  • Joined: 11/12/2009
GolfWRX Likes : 19

Posted 06 April 2016 - 09:08 PM

Fine sand works better than glass beads when mixed with epoxy, it gets dark and you can see what to clean. The back side of a sanding belt can be used for ferrules if in a pinch-the cloth is less abrasive. The best thing you can have in a shop in my opinion is a control club..to check new rulers, swingweight scales and bending machines. Especially bending machines, even if you get a new top from Mitchell every year they can vary.

28

#59 Stuart G.

Stuart G.

    Legend

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,573 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 174728
  • Joined: 04/12/2012
  • Location:New Hampshire
GolfWRX Likes : 2682

Posted 07 April 2016 - 03:14 AM

View PostRookieBlue7, on 06 April 2016 - 04:28 PM, said:

I don't use Dixie cups as some epoxies eat the plastic and some get hot and deform the cup. Just me though...  Plus I can use a sharpie and write directly on the tape what club and the time.

Not trying to convert you if you're happy but that's not correct.  Dixie cups are paper cups, not plastic (and you can write on them too).   And to be more specific, the small 3 oz bathroom cups.  Maybe 1-2 cents a cup.

Edited by Stuart G., 07 April 2016 - 03:16 AM.


29

#60 RookieBlue7

RookieBlue7

    Legend

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 10,299 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 50335
  • Joined: 03/01/2008
  • Location:Euharlee, GA
GolfWRX Likes : 1641

Posted 07 April 2016 - 06:17 AM

View PostStuart G., on 07 April 2016 - 03:14 AM, said:

View PostRookieBlue7, on 06 April 2016 - 04:28 PM, said:

I don't use Dixie cups as some epoxies eat the plastic and some get hot and deform the cup. Just me though...  Plus I can use a sharpie and write directly on the tape what club and the time.

Not trying to convert you if you're happy but that's not correct.  Dixie cups are paper cups, not plastic (and you can write on them too).   And to be more specific, the small 3 oz bathroom cups.  Maybe 1-2 cents a cup.

My wife buys the plastic ones for the bathroom. I get the 3" blue painters tape at work for free... Free works for me. Lol


Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


Wanna get rid of this ugly yellow box? And remove other annoying "stuff" in between posts? Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

30



1 user(s) are reading this topic

1 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


    jjdam

GolfWRX Sponsors