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Hi. I've recently purchased the Razr Fit Xtreme. I tested lots of shafts and opted for the Aldila Trinity in X-stiff - very stable/good shaft. I'm scratch +. 118mph swing speed. Low round 64 (include this info so you at least know I'm not a total hack).
Anywho, I didn't think much about the weights that came with the driver and left it in stock - 13g heel, 1g toe. Yesterday, I played the honda classic pga tour pre-qualifier tournament (under stress). I saw some curvature that I wasn't expecting and hadn't seen prior to then. Today, I went and hit 168 balls and tracked each shot. I tested the same swing (as much as I could control) with all six (6) different configurations. 13g wt, 1g wt, open, closed, square.
I came to the final and ultimate conclusion that without a doubt, moving weights affects curvature first and foremost. Face angle adjustment is secondary to weight placement and mostly affects trajectory before curvature is altered.
E.g.
When I put the 13g in the heel and 1g in the toe I consistently hit shots that curved RtoL, regardless of whether face was open, square or closed.
When I put the 1g in the heel and 13g in the toe I consistently hit shots that curved LtoR, regardless of whether face was open, square or closed.
(Now, if you're a slicer, I suggest getting all the weight you can into the heel and close the face... But, if you're like me, you like to control curvature by your own manipulation.)
I think the "baked in curvature" Callaway is providing the general population is not good. They're thinking everyone either wants to hook or fade. They're not thinking that people would like to have a club that is neutral. So a RtoL biased setup has a possibility of turning into a RtoL hook, and vice versa.
Anywho, I wanted to even out the weight so there's 7g in heel and 7g in toe that in theory produces a club that has both toe and heel evenly matched in weight and a rotation that matches a neutral clubhead. So, I looked into the 'opti fit weight kit.' $49 at callaway.com. Are you kidding me??? That's robbery... and it doesn't give you the weight combo that makes sense... So, I went to Lowes and bought my own weight kit for $.92 (ninety two cents). It doesn't have the pretty look, but who cares (see pix)?
I got two 6 millimeter screws x 1" (one inch). I then wrapped the threads with plumber's tape and put each into place with a screw driver. Voila. Went back to range and hit bomb after bomb with very minimal curvature. When I wanted to hit a baby draw, I would close face a millimeter. When I wanted to hit a hook, I would close face a bunch. When I wanted to hit a baby fade, I setup a touch open with a weak right hand. When I wanted to hit a huge fade, I setup more open and weakened both hands. When I wanted to hit it as hard as I could, I squared the face and just ripped it and the curvature NEVER surprised me - EVER. I think this is a winner.
See attached photos.
Anywho, I didn't think much about the weights that came with the driver and left it in stock - 13g heel, 1g toe. Yesterday, I played the honda classic pga tour pre-qualifier tournament (under stress). I saw some curvature that I wasn't expecting and hadn't seen prior to then. Today, I went and hit 168 balls and tracked each shot. I tested the same swing (as much as I could control) with all six (6) different configurations. 13g wt, 1g wt, open, closed, square.
I came to the final and ultimate conclusion that without a doubt, moving weights affects curvature first and foremost. Face angle adjustment is secondary to weight placement and mostly affects trajectory before curvature is altered.
E.g.
When I put the 13g in the heel and 1g in the toe I consistently hit shots that curved RtoL, regardless of whether face was open, square or closed.
When I put the 1g in the heel and 13g in the toe I consistently hit shots that curved LtoR, regardless of whether face was open, square or closed.
(Now, if you're a slicer, I suggest getting all the weight you can into the heel and close the face... But, if you're like me, you like to control curvature by your own manipulation.)
I think the "baked in curvature" Callaway is providing the general population is not good. They're thinking everyone either wants to hook or fade. They're not thinking that people would like to have a club that is neutral. So a RtoL biased setup has a possibility of turning into a RtoL hook, and vice versa.
Anywho, I wanted to even out the weight so there's 7g in heel and 7g in toe that in theory produces a club that has both toe and heel evenly matched in weight and a rotation that matches a neutral clubhead. So, I looked into the 'opti fit weight kit.' $49 at callaway.com. Are you kidding me??? That's robbery... and it doesn't give you the weight combo that makes sense... So, I went to Lowes and bought my own weight kit for $.92 (ninety two cents). It doesn't have the pretty look, but who cares (see pix)?
I got two 6 millimeter screws x 1" (one inch). I then wrapped the threads with plumber's tape and put each into place with a screw driver. Voila. Went back to range and hit bomb after bomb with very minimal curvature. When I wanted to hit a baby draw, I would close face a millimeter. When I wanted to hit a hook, I would close face a bunch. When I wanted to hit a baby fade, I setup a touch open with a weak right hand. When I wanted to hit a huge fade, I setup more open and weakened both hands. When I wanted to hit it as hard as I could, I squared the face and just ripped it and the curvature NEVER surprised me - EVER. I think this is a winner.
See attached photos.
