divotdog24, on 22 February 2013 - 01:22 AM, said:
As the title implies, today I went down to my local fitting center/golf shop trying to get fit for a new shaft and driver. I left empty handed and a little discouraged... and now turn to the wrx for ideas.
I hit every X-flex shaft they could find to throw in there and nothing seemed to help my off the wall spin rates. Part of the problem may have been the shops shaft options (or lack thereof). It was pretty much limited to all the available offerings from the big names (Titleist, Cally, Taylor etc..). The closest I had to a fit was the Fuji Rombax X 75..but the spin was still consistently around 4000..which was still too high for me to justify.
I know there's probably tons of options out there that would fit the bill, but as college kid with loans I can't drop $250+ on just a shaft.
The Proforce V2 67g looked interesting. I can't seem to find a GD Tour AD Throttle in an X flex anywhere, but that looked like it could possibly work.
My numbers off the Trackman were-
Avg. Swing Speed: 110-120
Avg Ball Speed: 155-170
Avg. Launch Angle: 12 degrees
Back Spin: 4500-6000 RPM (YIKES!!)
I'm a 5 handicap.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could try to pick up?
I'm hesitant buying something before hitting it, but the only fitting center around is the one I already tried out.
Sometimes i wants to cry when i read about how STUPID club fitters around really is, and they call them self Club fitters and professionals, but there seems to be a very long distance between those ho actually knows how to fit a club and those who dont.
#1 in club fitting is shaft length, and its not even a subject here, and it hardly is in OEM fitting, so what can you expect when we take the most important fitting parameter on "walk over" ? A few simple things everyone should now about club fitting.
- We always have to start with club length, and without that, we are not going to make it. Its not even a subject for debate, its simply the most important parameter, so if we dont do any ting about it, we can just as well forget the rest, because we are no longer into whats called a club fitting then.
By testing different shaft lengths, we wants to find the club length that gives you a comfortable stance where YOUR body can swing to its very best, and a length who fits your ability for eye to hand coordination. If you play standard length in your irons and thats correct for you, a driver between 43.50 and 44 inch is whats right for you. If you are a professional player and play standard, you MIGHT be able to handle a driver of up to 45 inch, but it would NOT be a optimized club.
The commercial try to tell us that we can hit longer with a light and long driver. Thats a truth with LARGE modifications.
- Only players who gain club speed, and maintain their PTR (Power transfer ratio), also known as smash factor, will gain, all others would not.
When we trace the correct shaft length, we look at PTR value, because the COR value of the face is variable, PTR value alone will tell us if we got impact within the sweet spot or not. PTR value should be 1:48 up to its max 1:50 when we have found the right shaft length, total weight, and SW balance. NOW its time to look on launch and spin.
PS! The optimized PTR value of 1:50 is only for drivers and woods. When loft goes up, we use more enegry for spin, and less for ballspeed, so PTR will drop by nature so its noting wrong if you cant get 1:50 on your #6 iron, you want be able to either.
Ball speed / Club speed = PTR
150 Mph / 100 Mph = 1.50 - max
Your smash factor is in the 1:40 area and from 100 Mph club speed, that give only 140 Mph ball speed and you loose a bit more than 2 yards carry for each mile ball speed, so here is 20 yards, just from improving PTR value, and then we get started......
Spin values is very different depending on where on the face you got impact, and outside the sweetspot area, spin value will be crazy, so its NOT you who have a spin problem, you have a impact spot problem
, but thats what we should take care of by a good club fitting, but the place you where did not know how to get you there. It tells me they are doing trial and error and hope for a miracle, and thats got nothing to do with club fitting.
We have something called GEAR EFFECT on a club face, and we also have "Bulge and Roll" who is the curves you can see from heel to toe, or sole to crown. On a modern driver, Center of Gravity is way back in the club head, and the further away from the impact spot, the larger is the gear effect.
The gear effect works like this:
- If impact is Heel side, the ball will be forced to "roll/spin" against the Toe side, causing a fade or worse a slice
- If impact is Toe side, the ball will be forced to "roll/spin" against the Heel side, causing a draw or worse a hook
- If impact is below center line of the face,the ball will be forced to "roll/spin" up against the crown, causing more backspin, but a lower flight because loft is lower below center line.
- If impact is above center line of the face,the ball will be forced to "roll/spin" down against the sole, causing less backspin, but a higher flight because loft is higher above center line.
Here is gear effect shown on a FLAT vs a Bulged club face
Bulge is a ANTI Gear effect design
Here is gear effect shown as effect for height and spin if hit lower or higher than centerline.
Again the curve from sole to crown is a ANTI gear effect design
(ROLL is correct name, i just used the same photo)
A good club fittings #1 task is to optimize PTR value, not only to get maximized ball speed and distance, but also to prevent unwanted spin and flight pattern caused by gear effects when impact is outside sweet spot.
You can test all the shafts as X flex this world got to offer without improving anything, YOU HAVE TO start by finding what shaft length, and total weight and SW balance is right for you, then the fitting can move on, NOT before.
Edited by Howard Jones, 22 February 2013 - 03:00 AM.