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Cutting down a stock G20 shaft


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#1 WT Door

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 04:56 PM

I've got a stock G20 from inbound from the bay that I intend to shorten to 44.75 or 44.5.

Can 1/2" be taken from the tip without requiring shims or such on re-installation?

Is there any appreciable difference between this and simply lopping 1" to 1.25" from the butt?

I am aware of the SW implications and advantages of having specs built into a new driver directly from Ping.  This is merely an attempt at 'close enough' until I can get a proper fitting later in the summer.

Thanks.

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#2 Nessism

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 06:59 PM

Lessons learned from Mr. Howard Jones

Shortening the shaft by 1" will reduce swingweight by 6 point.  You will need to add roughly 12 grams to the head to get back to the original swingweight.  Adding this much weight will bring the total head weight roughly equal to that of a 3-wood, so the shaft should be tipped accordingly (about 1/2").  So tip by 1/2", butt cut by 1/2", add 12 grams to the head and you will be golden.  The shaft should have plenty of parallel tip section to tip this amount.  You might want to look around for a clubmaker in your area that can hotmelt the head for you.  Do all this and you are just as well off as if Ping did it for you.;)

#3 Stuart G.

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 07:31 PM

View PostNessism, on 30 January 2013 - 06:59 PM, said:

Lessons learned from Mr. Howard Jones

Shortening the shaft by 1" will reduce swingweight by 6 point.  You will need to add roughly 12 grams to the head to get back to the original swingweight.  Adding this much weight will bring the total head weight roughly equal to that of a 3-wood, so the shaft should be tipped accordingly (about 1/2").  So tip by 1/2", butt cut by 1/2", add 12 grams to the head and you will be golden.  The shaft should have plenty of parallel tip section to tip this amount.  You might want to look around for a clubmaker in your area that can hotmelt the head for you.  Do all this and you are just as well off as if Ping did it for you. ;)

Good info here - except it works on the assumption that you want to keep the SW the same with the shorter playing length. Based on the posts I've seen from people who have shortened their driver, as many people reported that they didn't need to add that much weight as did.  So the only thing I would add is build the weight up slowly until you find what's right for you.

Also, Tom Wishon has some very good insight here as to the effects of tipping a shaft you might want to read to answer your question about how much difference tipping a 1/2" would make (or not).

http://www.golfwrx.c...o-lower-torque/

Edited by Stuart G., 30 January 2013 - 07:31 PM.


#4 parpar41

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 07:32 PM

View PostNessism, on 30 January 2013 - 06:59 PM, said:

Lessons learned from Mr. Howard Jones

Shortening the shaft by 1" will reduce swingweight by 6 point.  You will need to add roughly 12 grams to the head to get back to the original swingweight.  Adding this much weight will bring the total head weight roughly equal to that of a 3-wood, so the shaft should be tipped accordingly (about 1/2").  So tip by 1/2", butt cut by 1/2", add 12 grams to the head and you will be golden.  The shaft should have plenty of parallel tip section to tip this amount.  You might want to look around for a clubmaker in your area that can hotmelt the head for you.  Do all this and you are just as well off as if Ping did it for you. ;)
  Thanks - clearly expressed and a useful answer.

#5 JasonFL

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 10:47 PM

View PostNessism, on 30 January 2013 - 06:59 PM, said:

Lessons learned from Mr. Howard Jones

Shortening the shaft by 1" will reduce swingweight by 6 point.  You will need to add roughly 12 grams to the head to get back to the original swingweight.  Adding this much weight will bring the total head weight roughly equal to that of a 3-wood, so the shaft should be tipped accordingly (about 1/2").  So tip by 1/2", butt cut by 1/2", add 12 grams to the head and you will be golden.  The shaft should have plenty of parallel tip section to tip this amount.  You might want to look around for a clubmaker in your area that can hotmelt the head for you.  Do all this and you are just as well off as if Ping did it for you. ;)

This ^^^^

I trimmed the butt only and it was a bad idea....and 12 grams to the head is a lot of tape. Hot melt Im also agreeing with!

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#6 station2station

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 10:57 PM

A G20 is designed to be D3 @ 45.75.  You'll be taking an inch to 1.25" off.  Without re-weighting the head your new club will be C6-C7'ish.

This massive swing weight reduction (fulcrum movement) is very noticeable and will affect your driver in bad ways.  From acoustics to not being able to sense the head weight mid-swing.

Placing lead tape on the head is a crap shoot because ideally it should be inside the head and strategically placed - the weight from the factory was engineered into specific places and by placing lead tape at quasi-random spots on the outside of the head doesn't alway get the best results….like NEVER.

I agree that you should order a head from PING that suits your needs!  I smell a G25 in your future ;)
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#7 Nessism

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 11:46 PM

View Poststation2station, on 30 January 2013 - 10:57 PM, said:

A G20 is designed to be D3 @ 45.75.  You'll be taking an inch to 1.25" off.  Without re-weighting the head your new club will be C6-C7'ish.

This massive swing weight reduction (fulcrum movement) is very noticeable and will affect your driver in bad ways.  From acoustics to not being able to sense the head weight mid-swing.

Placing lead tape on the head is a crap shoot because ideally it should be inside the head and strategically placed - the weight from the factory was engineered into specific places and by placing lead tape at quasi-random spots on the outside of the head doesn't alway get the best results….like NEVER.


Actually, if we want to believe someone like the esteemed Tom Wishon, he will tell us that you will need 25+ grams of weight strategically placed before the clubs ball flight pattern will be effected.  12 grams, regardless of where it's placed, shouldn't matter.  If you don't believe me, you might want to check this video from Ping's Tour van.  The technician applies 8 grams of hot melt inside the head of a driver, inserted though the hosel, and deposited near the heal of the club.  These guys don't seem to be fretting where the weight is added, presumably because the small amount of weights location is insignificant    

Edited by Nessism, 30 January 2013 - 11:52 PM.


#8 WT Door

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 03:30 AM

Great stuff here.  Thanks to all.

This used club is a dynamic loft band-aid while I work to fix an apparent impact issue.  I hope to have it sorted out soon and will then capitalize on a proper demo and build.

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#9 station2station

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:01 AM

View PostNessism, on 30 January 2013 - 11:46 PM, said:

View Poststation2station, on 30 January 2013 - 10:57 PM, said:

A G20 is designed to be D3 @ 45.75.  You'll be taking an inch to 1.25" off.  Without re-weighting the head your new club will be C6-C7'ish.

This massive swing weight reduction (fulcrum movement) is very noticeable and will affect your driver in bad ways.  From acoustics to not being able to sense the head weight mid-swing.

Placing lead tape on the head is a crap shoot because ideally it should be inside the head and strategically placed - the weight from the factory was engineered into specific places and by placing lead tape at quasi-random spots on the outside of the head doesn't alway get the best results….like NEVER.


Actually, if we want to believe someone like the esteemed Tom Wishon, he will tell us that you will need 25+ grams of weight strategically placed before the clubs ball flight pattern will be effected.  12 grams, regardless of where it's placed, shouldn't matter.  

I completely disagree with Tom Wishon if those are his sentiments - thru experience I've moved a 6" strip of lead tape around on my 3 wood during a 30 minute range session and changed the flight dramatically from not being able to cut a golf ball at all to hitting balls that wouldn't get 6 feet off the ground (by putting it at the top of the tail - almost on the crown - higher CG.  I'm competent enough as a low single digit to swing this club in a fairly repeatable fashion and I was changing the flight quite dramatically.

I wouldn't apply lead tape just anywhere on your driver.

There is a reason a certain manufacturer puts the option of a 2 or 10g weight screw in the heel and toe port of their drivers.  Fllp them and watch your ball flight change.

And regarding PING - they are so anal about weight location that they put the weight port in the cavity of their irons instead of the hosel because, as they say, it keep the engineered balance of the head intact.  And these weights range from 1g to 8g...miniscule.  So it must matter.

Edited by station2station, 31 January 2013 - 10:17 AM.

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#10 boomchoo

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:13 AM

Check the swingweight before you cut it.  My G20 was actually a touch over D8 from the factory.  I had it cut at the butt side to 44.5 and now it swingweights at a touch over D2.


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#11 Nessism

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:09 AM

View Poststation2station, on 31 January 2013 - 10:01 AM, said:

View PostNessism, on 30 January 2013 - 11:46 PM, said:

View Poststation2station, on 30 January 2013 - 10:57 PM, said:

A G20 is designed to be D3 @ 45.75.  You'll be taking an inch to 1.25" off.  Without re-weighting the head your new club will be C6-C7'ish.

This massive swing weight reduction (fulcrum movement) is very noticeable and will affect your driver in bad ways.  From acoustics to not being able to sense the head weight mid-swing.

Placing lead tape on the head is a crap shoot because ideally it should be inside the head and strategically placed - the weight from the factory was engineered into specific places and by placing lead tape at quasi-random spots on the outside of the head doesn't alway get the best results….like NEVER.


Actually, if we want to believe someone like the esteemed Tom Wishon, he will tell us that you will need 25+ grams of weight strategically placed before the clubs ball flight pattern will be effected.  12 grams, regardless of where it's placed, shouldn't matter.  

I completely disagree with Tom Wishon if those are his sentiments - thru experience I've moved a 6" strip of lead tape around on my 3 wood during a 30 minute range session and changed the flight dramatically from not being able to cut a golf ball at all to hitting balls that wouldn't get 6 feet off the ground (by putting it at the top of the tail - almost on the crown - higher CG.  I'm competent enough as a low single digit to swing this club in a fairly repeatable fashion and I was changing the flight quite dramatically.

I wouldn't apply lead tape just anywhere on your driver.

There is a reason a certain manufacturer puts the option of a 2 or 10g weight screw in the heel and toe port of their drivers.  Fllp them and watch your ball flight change.

And regarding PING - they are so anal about weight location that they put the weight port in the cavity of their irons instead of the hosel because, as they say, it keep the engineered balance of the head intact.  And these weights range from 1g to 8g...miniscule.  So it must matter.


Ping's CTP weight port business is a nice bit of engineering since it allows clubs to be swingweighted after the shaft is glued up and cut to proper club length.  Sure it's nice that the weight is centered on the head, but that's a minor consideration relative to club performance.  Mizuno and Titlest irons are both assembled using tip weights, and I've never heard of anyone complaining about performance issues resulting from a "shifted center of gravity".

The typical driver head weighs 200 grams.  A 10 gram weight is only 5% of the total.  Shifting this much weight around won't move the CG enough to notice except for the most sensitive players.  The placebo effect is far greater than the physics related effect.

#12 station2station

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:25 AM

View PostNessism, on 31 January 2013 - 11:09 AM, said:

Ping's CTP weight port business is a nice bit of engineering since it allows clubs to be swingweighted after the shaft is glued up and cut to proper club length.  Sure it's nice that the weight is centered on the head, but that's a minor consideration relative to club performance.  Mizuno and Titlest irons are both assembled using tip weights, and I've never heard of anyone complaining about performance issues resulting from a "shifted center of gravity".

The typical driver head weighs 200 grams.  A 10 gram weight is only 5% of the total.  Shifting this much weight around won't move the CG enough to notice except for the most sensitive players.  The placebo effect is far greater than the physics related effect.

I'll agree with your first statement on PINGs CTP port being simply a minor consideration.  

But moving lead tape around on a fairway wood/driver head produces a fairly substantial change in flight dynamics.  Again I will bring up TMAGs moveable heel/toe 2-10g weighting and the real effects it produces as well as the my experience on the range with my wood.  I was actually shocked and surprised at my bad ball flight on the range because I strategically placed the lead tape at home to get rid of a specific ball flight - and I overdid it and had to re-apply the tape several times before abandoning the process.  If memory serves I was moving 10-12g of tape.

The effects are real or lead tape wouldn't be out on the toe of tour players clubs.

I'll also add that significant weight can disrupt the flex characteristics of a shaft.  I had a lengthy discussion with KBS about this very thing.  12g out at the end of a shaft can soften it quite a bit - and I may have been experiencing this as well since the shaft was at the bottom of my needs (soft to begin with)

Anyway - just a discussion - no offense.

Edited by station2station, 31 January 2013 - 11:33 AM.

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#13 Nessism

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 12:35 PM

View Poststation2station, on 31 January 2013 - 11:25 AM, said:


I'll agree with your first statement on PINGs CTP port being simply a minor consideration.  

But moving lead tape around on a fairway wood/driver head produces a fairly substantial change in flight dynamics.  Again I will bring up TMAGs moveable heel/toe 2-10g weighting and the real effects it produces as well as the my experience on the range with my wood.  I was actually shocked and surprised at my bad ball flight on the range because I strategically placed the lead tape at home to get rid of a specific ball flight - and I overdid it and had to re-apply the tape several times before abandoning the process.  If memory serves I was moving 10-12g of tape.

The effects are real or lead tape wouldn't be out on the toe of tour players clubs.

I'll also add that significant weight can disrupt the flex characteristics of a shaft.  I had a lengthy discussion with KBS about this very thing.  12g out at the end of a shaft can soften it quite a bit - and I may have been experiencing this as well since the shaft was at the bottom of my needs (soft to begin with)

Anyway - just a discussion - no offense.


From a theoretical standpoint, moving around 5% of the discretionary weight shouldn't have much effect on ball flight, because it will only move the CG infinitesimally.  Again, Wishon has posted extensively on this subject and he claims testing with a control group of players showed it took 25 grams before the effect is noticeable, excepting the most sensitive of players.  Apparently, you fall into this small segment of people that could notice such a thing.  I seriously doubt I could.  

As for if Taylormade does it, it must be viable...not so much.  I ain't drink'n that Koolaid.;)

#14 station2station

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 02:27 PM

View PostNessism, on 31 January 2013 - 12:35 PM, said:

As for if Taylormade does it, it must be viable...not so much.  I ain't drink'n that Koolaid. ;)

That's the damn truth - you know how I feel about TMAG.  :)

I will say that I don't always buy into Wishon's thought's on issues.  He largely know's his stuff but there have been more than one instance where I've disagreed with his theories.

I was there for his "experiment" but there is a reason lead tape exists.  I'll agree to disagree with Wishon.

Edited by station2station, 31 January 2013 - 02:40 PM.

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#15 puttitin

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 01:45 PM

I'd like to chip in as a complete novice.

In the Ping Tour Van video that Nessim provided above the guy had the driver + shaft + grip weighing in at C7 on the SW scale .He goes on to say he needs the driver to be D4, and his computer tells him :Add 9.4 grams weight.Thats 9.4 grams for 7 Swing Weights! That is 1.34 grams per swing weight.

I READ EVERYWHERE 1 SW=2 GRAMS.

WTF!!

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#16 JasonFL

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 02:31 PM

Wouldn't 12 grams multiplied by the clubhead speed equal varying results depending on the speed and location of the added lead tape?

Its hard to argue that additional force isn't applied at 127 mph vs the force applied at 95 mph. Given the same shaft/head id find it hard to believe the shaft wouldn't twist more for he 127 mph swing vs the 95 mph swing. All things equal.

12 grams traveling at 127 mph is almost an additional 4 pounds of force on the toe or heel.

Count me as someone else who respectfully disagrees.
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#17 Mschumacher

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 02:44 PM

Does choking down affect swing weight?

#18 WT Door

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:01 PM

As a brief follow-up, the club came in and last night received its shaftectomy.  Seller said it was 'stock' retail (TFC Tour Stiff) and it appeared to be so - the thing looked like it had not seen more than a single bucket of range balls.  The actual dimensions of the finished club with standard Ping grip were 45 1/4" at D1.

I thought that seemed strange but using the highly scientific method of visually comparing the bottom of the grip to the shaft logo against some the shop had in the store, it did not appear that anything was different about the butt of the club.

Once the grip was removed, the ungripped shaft length came in just a skosh over 45".  I had him lop off about 5/8" and install a slightly lighter Lamkin grip.  After attaching two 4gr lead strips alongside the 'bulge' on the back center of the G20 sole plate, it was just a hair over D4.

I'll give it a whirl this weekend but initial impression is that I may need to call Lance Armstrong for some diet tips to properly load that shaft.  I'm not sure my rather pedestrian 100-102 will get 'er done.

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#19 JasonFL

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:15 PM

View PostMschumacher, on 05 February 2013 - 02:44 PM, said:

Does choking down affect swing weight?
Yes. But at least it doesn't permanently change it.
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#20 Mschumacher

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:10 PM

View PostJasonFL, on 05 February 2013 - 05:15 PM, said:

View PostMschumacher, on 05 February 2013 - 02:44 PM, said:

Does choking down affect swing weight?
Yes. But at least it doesn't permanently change it.

Ok good to hear.  I've been playing a few hybrids/woods while choking down (with good results) and may go ahead and cut them down.


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#21 Nessism

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 12:28 AM

View PostWT Door, on 05 February 2013 - 05:01 PM, said:

As a brief follow-up, the club came in and last night received its shaftectomy.  Seller said it was 'stock' retail (TFC Tour Stiff) and it appeared to be so - the thing looked like it had not seen more than a single bucket of range balls.  The actual dimensions of the finished club with standard Ping grip were 45 1/4" at D1.

I thought that seemed strange but using the highly scientific method of visually comparing the bottom of the grip to the shaft logo against some the shop had in the store, it did not appear that anything was different about the butt of the club.

Once the grip was removed, the ungripped shaft length came in just a skosh over 45".  I had him lop off about 5/8" and install a slightly lighter Lamkin grip.  After attaching two 4gr lead strips alongside the 'bulge' on the back center of the G20 sole plate, it was just a hair over D4.

I'll give it a whirl this weekend but initial impression is that I may need to call Lance Armstrong for some diet tips to properly load that shaft.  I'm not sure my rather pedestrian 100-102 will get 'er done.

The extra weight on the head will make the shaft play a little softer.  I think you will be real close.

Good luck

#22 Nessism

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 12:29 AM

View Postputtitin, on 05 February 2013 - 01:45 PM, said:

I'd like to chip in as a complete novice.

In the Ping Tour Van video that Nessim provided above the guy had the driver + shaft + grip weighing in at C7 on the SW scale .He goes on to say he needs the driver to be D4, and his computer tells him :Add 9.4 grams weight.Thats 9.4 grams for 7 Swing Weights! That is 1.34 grams per swing weight.

I READ EVERYWHERE 1 SW=2 GRAMS.

WTF!!


Maybe for irons, but a driver shaft is longer so it takes less weight.  Swingweight is actually a torque measurement, so length matters.

#23 TMelectric

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 07:40 AM

I just came across this thread about three days too late. I have the Bubba pink G20 in a regular flex but needed it a little stiffer. After reading countless threads on the benefit of cutting it down to 44 3/4", I decided to do this. The guy at the shop told me if I add lead tape to the head to get back to a D4 swing weight, it would make the shaft play softer again defeating my main purpose of cutting it down. I have played two rounds of golf with this shaft at the lighter weight and so far, I think I am hitting it longer and straighter. It has been cold so my swing is off a little but I have been extremely happy with the results so far.

My question is playing a driver with a C8 weight, ( I believe that is what he told me) ,  other than not feeling the head weight, what are the bad things that will become of this? Would a heavier head get my more distance? Better dispersion? Or would a lighter driver like mine now increase my swing speed causing longer drives?
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#24 Stuart G.

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 08:54 AM

View PostTMelectric, on 06 February 2013 - 07:40 AM, said:

My question is playing a driver with a C8 weight, ( I believe that is what he told me) ,  other than not feeling the head weight, what are the bad things that will become of this? Would a heavier head get my more distance? Better dispersion? Or would a lighter driver like mine now increase my swing speed causing longer drives?

Unfortunately each player will react differently to weight changes (both static and swing weight).  The only way to find out for you is to get some lead tape and experiment.   Go to the range and start with a few grams and add some more a little at a time.  You need to get to the point where you've added 10gms or more before most people will notice the shaft softening so you actually have some room to bring the SW up w/o needing tipping.

Edited by Stuart G., 06 February 2013 - 08:56 AM.


#25 puttitin

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 07:44 AM

View PostNessism, on 06 February 2013 - 12:29 AM, said:

View Postputtitin, on 05 February 2013 - 01:45 PM, said:

I'd like to chip in as a complete novice. In the Ping Tour Van video that Nessim provided above the guy had the driver + shaft + grip weighing in at C7 on the SW scale .He goes on to say he needs the driver to be D4, and his computer tells him :Add 9.4 grams weight.Thats 9.4 grams for 7 Swing Weights! That is 1.34 grams per swing weight. I READ EVERYWHERE 1 SW=2 GRAMS. WTF!!
Maybe for irons, but a driver shaft is longer so it takes less weight. Swingweight is actually a torque measurement, so length matters.

No this was for Driver! So am I correct in saying that for Driver and Mybe 3 and 5 woods one should use say 1SW= 1.4gr weight as the ball park figures?

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#26 Nessism

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 09:31 AM

View Postputtitin, on 10 February 2013 - 07:44 AM, said:

View PostNessism, on 06 February 2013 - 12:29 AM, said:

View Postputtitin, on 05 February 2013 - 01:45 PM, said:

I'd like to chip in as a complete novice. In the Ping Tour Van video that Nessim provided above the guy had the driver + shaft + grip weighing in at C7 on the SW scale .He goes on to say he needs the driver to be D4, and his computer tells him :Add 9.4 grams weight.Thats 9.4 grams for 7 Swing Weights! That is 1.34 grams per swing weight. I READ EVERYWHERE 1 SW=2 GRAMS. WTF!!
Maybe for irons, but a driver shaft is longer so it takes less weight. Swingweight is actually a torque measurement, so length matters.

No this was for Driver! So am I correct in saying that for Driver and Mybe 3 and 5 woods one should use say 1SW= 1.4gr weight as the ball park figures?

Just for you, because I'm a full service sort of guy, just did an experiment.  Took my driver (44.5") and tested swingweight increase by taping on some weight.  It took 1.5 grams to add one swingweight point.  Weight was taped onto the bottom of the hosel area, not all the way onto the sole of the club.  If hotmelt is added to the head like they do with the Ping tour van, then the weight is actually further away from the grip end of the club so this number will go down slightly.  I believe that 1.34 grams would be just about right, particularly if we are talking about a driver with long shaft.:)

#27 puttitin

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 11:50 AM

View PostNessism, on 10 February 2013 - 09:31 AM, said:

View Postputtitin, on 10 February 2013 - 07:44 AM, said:

View PostNessism, on 06 February 2013 - 12:29 AM, said:

View Postputtitin, on 05 February 2013 - 01:45 PM, said:

I'd like to chip in as a complete novice. In the Ping Tour Van video that Nessim provided above the guy had the driver + shaft + grip weighing in at C7 on the SW scale .He goes on to say he needs the driver to be D4, and his computer tells him :Add 9.4 grams weight.Thats 9.4 grams for 7 Swing Weights! That is 1.34 grams per swing weight. I READ EVERYWHERE 1 SW=2 GRAMS. WTF!!
Maybe for irons, but a driver shaft is longer so it takes less weight. Swingweight is actually a torque measurement, so length matters.

No this was for Driver! So am I correct in saying that for Driver and Mybe 3 and 5 woods one should use say 1SW= 1.4gr weight as the ball park figures?

Just for you, because I'm a full service sort of guy, just did an experiment.  Took my driver (44.5") and tested swingweight increase by taping on some weight.  It took 1.5 grams to add one swingweight point.  Weight was taped onto the bottom of the hosel area, not all the way onto the sole of the club.  If hotmelt is added to the head like they do with the Ping tour van, then the weight is actually further away from the grip end of the club so this number will go down slightly.  I believe that 1.34 grams would be just about right, particularly if we are talking about a driver with long shaft. :)

Nessim ,I knew you would come through!

I just bought a G20 driver 9.5° with a SR-Flex. I've allways played Regular,but a recent fitting proved to me that Senior flex is more suitable for my SS. I got the 9.5° because I liked the lower ballflight I was getting.

Now to get to the point. I want to cut the shaft 1",which means ,using the above 1SW= 1.5gr, I'll need to add 7.5gr to get back to D2,which Im comfortable with.
However Ping talks about counterbalanced shaft-what's this? and how does this effect shaft trimming? Should I trimm Butt only,which I would prefer, or Tip only? or half and half? Keeping in mind I don't want the shaft to be softer than it is ,nor launch lower .

I know I'm getting free expert fitting advice,but thats what I love about this forum. :friends:
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#28 Nessism

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 08:56 PM

View Postputtitin, on 10 February 2013 - 11:50 AM, said:

Nessim ,I knew you would come through!

I just bought a G20 driver 9.5° with a SR-Flex. I've allways played Regular,but a recent fitting proved to me that Senior flex is more suitable for my SS. I got the 9.5° because I liked the lower ballflight I was getting.

Now to get to the point. I want to cut the shaft 1",which means ,using the above 1SW= 1.5gr, I'll need to add 7.5gr to get back to D2,which Im comfortable with.
However Ping talks about counterbalanced shaft-what's this? and how does this effect shaft trimming? Should I trimm Butt only,which I would prefer, or Tip only? or half and half? Keeping in mind I don't want the shaft to be softer than it is ,nor launch lower .

I know I'm getting free expert fitting advice,but thats what I love about this forum. :friends:

A "counter balanced" shaft simply means, for all intents and purposes, a high balance point.  There is a little more weight in the butt end of the shaft.  I don't think you need to concern yourself with this though.  If you want the flex to stay the same you need to pull the shaft and both tip and butt trim.  

Just for kicks you may want to try 1/2" of butt trim and then try hitting the club.  Slap on some lead tape or just duct tape some coins on the head for a trial.  If the club feels good, then trim a little more.  If at some point the shaft feels too flexy  then you know you have to pull the shaft and tip it some.  You are most likely going to want to pull the shaft anyway so you can get the weight in the head, unless you like the look of lead tape.

Good luck and hope this helps.

#29 puttitin

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:53 AM

View PostNessism, on 10 February 2013 - 08:56 PM, said:

View Postputtitin, on 10 February 2013 - 11:50 AM, said:

Nessim ,I knew you would come through!

I just bought a G20 driver 9.5° with a SR-Flex. I've allways played Regular,but a recent fitting proved to me that Senior flex is more suitable for my SS. I got the 9.5° because I liked the lower ballflight I was getting.

Now to get to the point. I want to cut the shaft 1",which means ,using the above 1SW= 1.5gr, I'll need to add 7.5gr to get back to D2,which Im comfortable with.
However Ping talks about counterbalanced shaft-what's this? and how does this effect shaft trimming? Should I trimm Butt only,which I would prefer, or Tip only? or half and half? Keeping in mind I don't want the shaft to be softer than it is ,nor launch lower .

I know I'm getting free expert fitting advice,but thats what I love about this forum. :friends:

A "counter balanced" shaft simply means, for all intents and purposes, a high balance point.  There is a little more weight in the butt end of the shaft.  I don't think you need to concern yourself with this though.  If you want the flex to stay the same you need to pull the shaft and both tip and butt trim.  

Just for kicks you may want to try 1/2" of butt trim and then try hitting the club.  Slap on some lead tape or just duct tape some coins on the head for a trial.  If the club feels good, then trim a little more.  If at some point the shaft feels too flexy  then you know you have to pull the shaft and tip it some.  You are most likely going to want to pull the shaft anyway so you can get the weight in the head, unless you like the look of lead tape.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Thats super advice !I'll go the two step way.Butt trim 1/2" and go from there as you suggest.

Thanks a lot.
Driver: PING G20 +G25+ TITLEIST 913 D2
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#30 mikes919

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 08:35 AM

So now that the G20's are down to $199 in stores, I'm going to order one up. I hit a bunch of different heads and stock shafts, and I clearly did the best with a 10.5* and a plain old regular flex TFC shaft. Swingspeed is in the low 90's-- I couldn't load the TFC stiff at all, the Tour TFC Regular was on the borderline (some straight shots, but I couldn't always get around), and the TFC regular felt great.

However, I'm still not comfortable with the 45.75" overall length and I would really like to order it at 44.75" or 44.5" from the factory and have them add headweight to get the driver back to D3.

Since cutting it down and adding weight is going to soften the shaft even more, should I be ordering the Tour TFC in a regular flex instead of the regular TFC, knowing that it will soften up? I'm worried that a regular TFC will be too soft after cutting down and weighting.

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