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Scotty Cameron Tel3 restoration x 2 - Santa Fe and Newport


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#1 finchi5

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 06:46 PM

My latest projects for a Wrx member - gjf007

Two beat up Scotties.  A Santa Fe and a Newport.  The screws for the inserts had to be machined out as the hex was completely stripped.  Probably due to someone trying to get them out and failing.  The screws were replaced with stainless steel ones sent to me from a very kind wrx member from the US.  

Both heads are finished in a beadblast black oxide with a satin brushed sole and face.   I managed to find an elastomer sealant instead of using caulk.  It seems to leave a satin finish but will not discolour like normal decorators caulk or be as fiddly to use as silicone sealant .
Apologies if the pics are out of order

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#2 tommyrobson

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Posted 16 December 2012 - 08:01 PM

gorgeous copper faces
good job man!!
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#3 cgbm

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 11:31 PM

Id love to see a how to

#4 KaTooM

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 10:02 PM

VERY NICE....WEL DONE!!!

I'm going to tackle this project soon with my rusted Tel3 NP2.

The elastomer sealant....is it the run of the mill stuff you can pick up in a hardware store? Also, did you apply it to the front and the back at the same time and screw in the insert while it was wet?

And finally, what about the feel of the putter after the refinish with the store bought elastomer? Does it have the same feel as when original?

Thanks!
KTM

#5 Stu-Co

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 09:14 AM

Very nice job!   Do you use a cold black oxide?

Driver: 913 D3 - 9.5* (B1)
FW: 913 FD - 15* (B1)
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#6 finchi5

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 02:47 PM

I have a contact here in the UK who offers a hot black oxide finish.  I do all the prep work though.  The screws had been stripped on both of these putters so I had to use my mini mill to drill them out.  

With regards to the elastomer it was purchased online and is branded as an elastomeric sealant, not a silicone sealant.  I fixed the insert first with the screws and then injected the elastomer into the holes making sure they were completely full to avoid any air bubbles.  The elastomer is much easier to use than a silicone sealant as well, it doesn't discolour, is more flexible and can be painted (if you want to that is)

This is the stuff I used http://compare.ebay....type=pla&crdt=0

The reason why I did the elastomer after fitting the insert is because this is how SC does it.  When I removed the inserts there was no elastomer to be found, it was only in the holes.

Feel is just the same as well.

#7 KaTooM

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 08:36 PM

View Postfinchi5, on 16 January 2013 - 02:47 PM, said:

I have a contact here in the UK who offers a hot black oxide finish.  I do all the prep work though.  The screws had been stripped on both of these putters so I had to use my mini mill to drill them out.  

With regards to the elastomer it was purchased online and is branded as an elastomeric sealant, not a silicone sealant.  I fixed the insert first with the screws and then injected the elastomer into the holes making sure they were completely full to avoid any air bubbles.  The elastomer is much easier to use than a silicone sealant as well, it doesn't discolour, is more flexible and can be painted (if you want to that is)

This is the stuff I used http://compare.ebay....type=pla&crdt=0

The reason why I did the elastomer after fitting the insert is because this is how SC does it.  When I removed the inserts there was no elastomer to be found, it was only in the holes.

Feel is just the same as well.

Perfect...thank you for the detailed information!

After reading this topic as well as the DIY's that RookieBlue has posted up, I just about have my head around the project and I'm ready to start on my own. I just need to secure all my materials first.

Many thanks!

#8 finchi5

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 02:45 PM

Just make sure you get the right sized screws.  I was lucky as a fellow wrxer sent me some to do these.  We cant get the correct size here in the UK

#9 KaTooM

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 08:56 PM

View Postfinchi5, on 17 January 2013 - 02:45 PM, said:

Just make sure you get the right sized screws.  I was lucky as a fellow wrxer sent me some to do these.  We cant get the correct size here in the UK

Yes for sure! I'm planning on being able to reuse the originals. What type of fastener is it? Like a 3mm hex head?

#10 finchi5

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 01:04 PM

Both of the hex screws in these two were different sizes????  Plus it looked like someone had had a go at getting them out previously.  Even using top grade hex keys couldnt budge them.  I even tried star keys and they still didnt work.  I used replacement stainless steel screws in the end.


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#11 KaTooM

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 08:12 AM

Ok thanks...that makes sense. I have a 1.5mm hex key and a 2mm. The 2mm is too big and the 1.5 doesn't fit very snug...there's a little bit of slop there and I don't want to risk stripping the heads...just feels like it's not the correct size. But, on one of the five hex heads...the 1.5mm just spins around...and I know I did not strip it because I never applied any significant torque to the hex key.

I'm at a crossroads here with my project. I can either go to a quality tool store and see if I can find a couple keys that fit the heads precisely (maybe they are standard sizes instead of metric) or I can find some elastomer, fill the holes back in, epoxy the head to the shaft and call it a day thereby abandoning the refinsh all together.

I'm leaning toward option 2 since this is my gamer putter and I don't want to be without it too long. I don't have the machinery to drill the screws out and I don't want to send it off and be without the putter for weeks on end.

I feel that if I can find a key that fits appropriately I can get the screws out. If you had a hard time getting them out I'm thinking they might have used some thread locker (Loc-Tite) and a little low heat from a heat gun will work to loosen it up.

#12 KaTooM

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 10:38 AM

Ok...I'm throwing in the towel! I was able to get one screw out by building up a 1.5mm hex key with a single wrap of electrical tape (found this tip in a post by RookieBlue). However, I just couldn't get enough purchase on the other screws to loosen them.

I'm cutting my losses on this one, gonna fill in the elastomer, reshaft it, and put it back in play.

Strange observation, my putter has five screws where it seems all the other  Tel3's I've read about only have four.


Posted Image

Edited by KaTooM, 20 January 2013 - 10:39 AM.


#13 Stu-Co

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 07:55 AM

View PostKaTooM, on 20 January 2013 - 10:38 AM, said:

Ok...I'm throwing in the towel! I was able to get one screw out by building up a 1.5mm hex key with a single wrap of electrical tape (found this tip in a post by RookieBlue). However, I just couldn't get enough purchase on the other screws to loosen them.

I'm cutting my losses on this one, gonna fill in the elastomer, reshaft it, and put it back in play.

Strange observation, my putter has five screws where it seems all the other  Tel3's I've read about only have four.
That is kind of strange that it's got 5 screws.... you should go to a hardware store and just try a few allan keys since you've already got the elastomer out of the back..

Edited by Stu-Co, 21 January 2013 - 07:56 AM.

Driver: 913 D3 - 9.5* (B1)
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Mizuno MP-30 Deuce
Irons: Titleist MB (3-PW)
Putter: SGC Northwood CS
Wedges: Vokey 56* & 60*

#14 KaTooM

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 10:24 AM

Yeah, I debated back and forth trying to decide if I should persist or give up. In the end I decided to give up and put it all back together again.

It would've been a completely different story if the removal of the insert would have been as non-eventful as some of the write ups I've read.

I was really looking forward to a little DIY project

Oh well...C'est la vie!


#15 finchi5

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 02:24 PM

Ive seen a few with five screws.  Usually the fifth one is right in the middle.  I wouldn't like to attempt to drill them out by hand to be honest.  The tel3 putters are by far one of the most difficult ranges to work on.  If you are in the States then BOS is the place to go, defo worth the money.


#16 KaTooM

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 07:13 AM

Yep...BOS was at the top of my list if I was going to send this putter off. Who knows...maybe in the future this old dog will go away for a spa treatment. For the time being it's staying in my bag...rust and all!

Thanks for everyone's help!

#17 Scotty Pro

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 04:51 PM

Chris, you have done an outstanding job on that Santa Fe. I have just bought one and have looked at all the threads on restoration and yours seems to be the only one from the UK.

Do you think this stuff will give me a dark finish http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649 also, how did you get the white dots out, just pick them out with a toothpick or did you dissolve them?

Any help with regards the process would be much appreciated.

#18 Andy.

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 06:45 PM

Wow they look great! Great work!

#19 Sporting chance

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 02:59 AM

View PostKaTooM, on 20 January 2013 - 10:38 AM, said:

Ok...I'm throwing in the towel! I was able to get one screw out by building up a 1.5mm hex key with a single wrap of electrical tape (found this tip in a post by RookieBlue). However, I just couldn't get enough purchase on the other screws to loosen them.

I'm cutting my losses on this one, gonna fill in the elastomer, reshaft it, and put it back in play.

Strange observation, my putter has five screws where it seems all the other  Tel3's I've read about only have four.


Posted Image

Before giving up totally, try soaking the screws in something like WD40 overnight. A standard mechanic's trick that usually works!

#20 finchi5

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 05:04 AM

View PostScotty Pro, on 20 March 2014 - 04:51 PM, said:

Chris, you have done an outstanding job on that Santa Fe. I have just bought one and have looked at all the threads on restoration and yours seems to be the only one from the UK.

Do you think this stuff will give me a dark finish http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649 also, how did you get the white dots out, just pick them out with a toothpick or did you dissolve them?

Any help with regards the process would be much appreciated.

The bluing chemical may give you a dark black but all depends on the prep and how many coats you give it. The cold stuff is never as good as the real thing tbh.  You have to make sure that the head is completely degreased as well. All mine are caustic blackened hence the dark finish.  

The white dots are removed by soaking in white spirit overnight and picked out with a dental pick.


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#21 Scotty Pro

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 04:54 AM

Thanks chris,
I have now started on the Santa Fe and will start a thread over the next few days. I have ordered a Birchwood kit from Ebay and will be  sanding the head down whilst I'm waiting for it to arrive. I just hope I can get the screws out OK as some seem folks to have difficulty removing them.

#22 finchi5

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 04:31 AM

I sometimes end up having to drill the heads off the screws with my mini mill




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