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How to remove broken graphite tip from hosel?

hosel broken tip ft tour callaway voodoo xstiff

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#1 paulski

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 02:39 PM

this club is a callaway ft tour 9.5 with a voodoo x stiff graphite shaft. head came off at the driving range. i took a hacksaw and cut off the splintered ends from the tip and from the part of the shaft remaining in the hosel. the club was a little long for me anyways, so i want to reuse the shaft.

how can i remove the part still in the hosel? someone recommended i take a drill and screw into the hosel and hope the screw holds and i can just use a propane torch to heat it and just pull it, but i have reservations on that method.

Any ideas?

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  • Photo Nov 21, 1 32 48 PM.jpg

Edited by paulski, 21 November 2012 - 02:40 PM.


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#2 paulski

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 02:41 PM

the golf wrx watermark may be in the way, but the center of the part of the shaft still in the hosel is filled with some epoxy

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#3 BCC

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 02:55 PM

That was some HORRIBLE information !!!  Step drilling is your best bet......or....if you have easy outs---heat with a heat gun or carefully with butane, not propane. Drill out to the size of your easy out----heat & easy out till you break the epoxy bond.
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#4 paulski

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 03:00 PM

what is an "easy out"? do you have a link?

ive got a heat gun, as well as a propane torch, vice clamps and most everything needed to build a club

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#5 GoinLo

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:35 PM

Just drill it out with a small bit to start and larger bits from there. You are making it harder than you need to trying to heat it and pull it out.


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#6 1puttwoods

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:44 PM

Step drill it, I never use (or rarely if ever use) heat with a composite head.

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#7 Bobtrumpet

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 06:22 PM

I'd drill out to a close enough size (using a drill press and fixture to make sure I'd centered the hole) and then use a spiral-fluted reamer (a tapered reamer in the right final diameter would be better, but I couldn't find a link for one) in a hand vice (not in the drill press) to get to the final shaft size. This way you have the most control over the final result and can take the most care.

If you use drill bits for the whole process, you'll need to get the appropriate lettered bits, as 0.335" and 0.350" are not standard inch drill sizes.

E.g.,

"R" bit = 0.339 inch
"S" bit = 0.348 inch
"T" Bit = 0.358 inch

Or in metric

8.5 mm = 0.3347 inch
8.9 mm = 0.3504 inch

You can look up other sizes on line. Graingers and other similar places should have them.

Edited by Bobtrumpet, 21 November 2012 - 06:27 PM.


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#8 RookieBlue7

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 06:27 PM

That's the FT Tour that's part composite right? Drill it out, heating it to pull it could very likely cause it to seperate at the seam where the composite attaches.

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#9 T Shaf

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 06:41 PM

heat the drill bit for the first run - that will help you get it into the epoxy core. As said before - step drill it - a little heat on the top near the metal hosel will not hurt anything and should help to release the remainder of the shaft.
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