Jump to content

Welcome, Guest. You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with existing members and access to certain forums. Join our community today and enter into a chance to win a free regular giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

- - - - -

REMOVING RESIDUAL EPOXY FROM A .355T HOSEL


  • Please log in to reply
20 replies to this topic

#1 That Bob Guy

That Bob Guy

    Never settle!

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,877 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 125497
  • Joined: 03/29/2011
  • Location:On the Bay of Fundy
  • Handicap:6.9
GolfWRX Likes : 139

Posted 18 November 2012 - 12:04 PM

Hey guys,
I'm having some trouble removing residual epoxy from the bottom corners of a .355T hosel.
I don't see that anyone sells a .355 reamer.
What are you guys doing?


Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with existing members and access to certain forums. Join our community today and enter into a chance to win a free regular giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

#2 jmcdonald

jmcdonald

    Major Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,321 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 80779
  • Joined: 04/21/2009
  • Location:Navarre, FL
GolfWRX Likes : 100

Posted 18 November 2012 - 12:07 PM

Golf works has everything you need.

#3 QuickFeet

QuickFeet

    Tour Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 523 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 68520
  • Joined: 10/31/2008
  • Location:FW, TX
GolfWRX Likes : 27

Posted 18 November 2012 - 12:07 PM

McMaster-Carr will have 0.355 reamers.

http://www.mcmaster....reamers/=k7w7sx

#4 sung1018

sung1018

    Yeah, I crush alot.

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 358 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 82864
  • Joined: 05/13/2009
  • Location:Houston, TX
GolfWRX Likes : 9

Posted 18 November 2012 - 12:48 PM

How do you get rid of epoxy residue from the neck?i had golfsmith reshaft my fairway wood and still have some epoxy residue on the neck. Is this possible to get off? Or is the club ruined?

#5 Awalkspoiled

Awalkspoiled

    Major Winner

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 3,023 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 3924
  • Joined: 07/30/2005
GolfWRX Likes : 94

Posted 18 November 2012 - 01:00 PM

View PostTheBobGuy, on 18 November 2012 - 12:04 PM, said:

Hey guys,
I'm having some trouble removing residual epoxy from the bottom corners of a .355T hosel.
I don't see that anyone sells a .355 reamer.
What are you guys doing?

Just use the smallest bit you have and scour around in there on medium/low. You can also use a 1/4" sanding drum in a dremel but be careful with that - it spins fast enough to enlarge the bore.

Taylormade 300 Tour Holy Grail/6Q3
Cally XHP 15°/Altus
Cally XHP 18°/23°/ Saga/Altus hb
5-GW RBT/Program 95/130
Scratch D/D 54/Program 130
Bettinardi QB3

#6 dieselG

dieselG

    Tour Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 793 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 40735
  • Joined: 10/12/2007
  • Location:Kansas
GolfWRX Likes : 22

Posted 18 November 2012 - 03:01 PM

http://www.golfwrx.c...-cleaning-tool/

Works like a charm.

Edit: forgot to mention I made one for a .370 using a .370 shaft tip and one for a .355 using a .355 shaft tip.

Edited by dieselG, 18 November 2012 - 03:03 PM.


#7 Bunker33

Bunker33

    Advanced

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 158547
  • Joined: 01/29/2012
  • Location:MASS
GolfWRX Likes : 8

Posted 18 November 2012 - 03:49 PM

Wire brush on the end of a drill and a sanding sleeve to score n clean up the hosel.

#8 Socrates

Socrates

    Global Warming… I think not.

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 4,646 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 60534
  • Joined: 07/15/2008
  • Location:Winnipeg
GolfWRX Likes : 702

Posted 18 November 2012 - 05:39 PM

I use a 1/4" mounted bit in a dremel tool.  They can be bought (ordered in) at most commercial abrasive supply stores.  You want a:
Mounted Point Bit 1/4" x 1/2" with a 1/8" shank.  They are 2" long and I use them extensively.  They cost about $1.25 each and I order them in lots of 25.
MTD Bit.JPG
RH Ping i20 707D Stiff 44.5"
RH Jazz Bear Cat 3 wd Aerotech Stiff
RH Ping i20 3, 4 Hyb 707H Stiff
RH X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil Reg - D3
LH Scotty Cameron Golo Select 34"
Vokey SM2 52, Rotex 56-16 & 60-14

#9 That Bob Guy

That Bob Guy

    Never settle!

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,877 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 125497
  • Joined: 03/29/2011
  • Location:On the Bay of Fundy
  • Handicap:6.9
GolfWRX Likes : 139

Posted 18 November 2012 - 05:49 PM

View PostSocrates, on 18 November 2012 - 05:39 PM, said:

I use a 1/4" mounted bit in a dremel tool.  They can be bought (ordered in) at most commercial abrasive supply stores.  You want a:
Mounted Point Bit 1/4" x 1/2" with a 1/8" shank.  They are 2" long and I use them extensively.  They cost about $1.25 each and I order them in lots of 25.
Attachment MTD Bit.JPG
Is that the diameter at the bottom of the hosel in a 355T?

#10 Bunker33

Bunker33

    Advanced

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 158547
  • Joined: 01/29/2012
  • Location:MASS
GolfWRX Likes : 8

Posted 18 November 2012 - 06:42 PM

View PostSocrates, on 18 November 2012 - 05:39 PM, said:

I use a 1/4" mounted bit in a dremel tool.  They can be bought (ordered in) at most commercial abrasive supply stores.  You want a:
Mounted Point Bit 1/4" x 1/2" with a 1/8" shank.  They are 2" long and I use them extensively.  They cost about $1.25 each and I order them in lots of 25.
Attachment MTD Bit.JPG

When the grit is worn down do you have to throw the whole thing out? I use a 1/8th mandrel that i slide a sanding sleeve over. You can find the mandrel with the sleeves cheep at golfworks. Mandrel is 2 bucks n the replacements sleeves are like 50 cents


Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with existing members and access to certain forums. Join our community today and enter into a chance to win a free regular giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

Remove This Advertisement GolfWRX

GolfWRX

    Team Golfwrx

  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  

Viewing GolfWRX as Guest

Hide these ads and more. Join GolfWRX. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free.


You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with existing members and access to certain forums. Join our community today and enter into a chance to win a free regular giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.




#11 Socrates

Socrates

    Global Warming… I think not.

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 4,646 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 60534
  • Joined: 07/15/2008
  • Location:Winnipeg
GolfWRX Likes : 702

Posted 18 November 2012 - 07:28 PM

They are a 1/4" in diameter (.250") so they are smaller than any hosel.  They even fit inside iron shaft tips for a quick clean out of debris.

I just toss them when they are worn down to the nub.  They last a fair amount of time.  If it gets clogged up with residue, I just run it against a running sanding belt and clean it off (takes just a sec.).
RH Ping i20 707D Stiff 44.5"
RH Jazz Bear Cat 3 wd Aerotech Stiff
RH Ping i20 3, 4 Hyb 707H Stiff
RH X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil Reg - D3
LH Scotty Cameron Golo Select 34"
Vokey SM2 52, Rotex 56-16 & 60-14

#12 lbhitter

lbhitter

    BadaPing

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 739 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 2346
  • Joined: 07/10/2005
  • Location:North Carolina
  • Ebay ID:LBHITTER
GolfWRX Likes : 14

Posted 18 November 2012 - 08:36 PM

View PostSocrates, on 18 November 2012 - 07:28 PM, said:

They are a 1/4" in diameter (.250") so they are smaller than any hosel.  They even fit inside iron shaft tips for a quick clean out of debris.

I just toss them when they are worn down to the nub.  They last a fair amount of time.  If it gets clogged up with residue, I just run it against a running sanding belt and clean it off (takes just a sec.).

Where do you buy them?
SLDR White Tie
SLDR 3HL
Callaway Steelhead 5w
Mizuno MP-H5
Ping Ketsch
SM4/SM5/TVD/DGS200

#13 akim1220

akim1220

    Member

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 101 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 129944
  • Joined: 06/01/2011
GolfWRX Likes : 0

Posted 18 November 2012 - 09:10 PM

View PostTheBobGuy, on 18 November 2012 - 12:04 PM, said:

Hey guys,
I'm having some trouble removing residual epoxy from the bottom corners of a .355T hosel.
I don't see that anyone sells a .355 reamer.
What are you guys doing?

What have you tried so far?

#14 Nessism

Nessism

    Hall of Fame

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,177 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 131490
  • Joined: 06/23/2011
  • Location:Torrance, CA
GolfWRX Likes : 1112

Posted 18 November 2012 - 09:17 PM

I use a small screwdriver and scrape out the epoxy while the head is still hot from pulling the shaft.  If you forget, just put a little heat in there after the shaft is out and scrape then.  No need for grinders, reamers, nothing.

#15 hardboiled

hardboiled

    Member

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 132 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 127460
  • Joined: 04/25/2011
GolfWRX Likes : 2

Posted 18 November 2012 - 09:25 PM

View PostNessism, on 18 November 2012 - 09:17 PM, said:

I use a small screwdriver and scrape out the epoxy while the head is still hot from pulling the shaft.  If you forget, just put a little heat in there after the shaft is out and scrape then.  No need for grinders, reamers, nothing.

This works like a charm.


#16 cmb71

cmb71

    Tour Winner

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 690 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 28443
  • Joined: 05/01/2007
  • Location:Bettendorf, IA
GolfWRX Likes : 36

Posted 18 November 2012 - 09:44 PM

View Posthardboiled, on 18 November 2012 - 09:25 PM, said:

View PostNessism, on 18 November 2012 - 09:17 PM, said:

I use a small screwdriver and scrape out the epoxy while the head is still hot from pulling the shaft.  If you forget, just put a little heat in there after the shaft is out and scrape then.  No need for grinders, reamers, nothing.

This works like a charm.

Ditto x 2.
SLDR 430 Tour Issue 12* Chrome 6F5T
TM SLDR S 3 Wood UST VTS Silver 9X
TM Tour Preferred MB 3-PW KBS Tour
Titleist Vokey SM5 54*S & 60*L
Titleist 712U 2 Iron KBS Tour
Odyssey MXM #1

#17 schlyer

schlyer

    Advanced

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 360 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 20300
  • Joined: 10/06/2006
  • Location:Wichita, KS
  • Handicap:3.2
  • Ebay ID:schlyer
GolfWRX Likes : 22

Posted 18 November 2012 - 09:56 PM

Heat it back up a bit, it'll come out easy then.

#18 Socrates

Socrates

    Global Warming… I think not.

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 4,646 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 60534
  • Joined: 07/15/2008
  • Location:Winnipeg
GolfWRX Likes : 702

Posted 18 November 2012 - 10:46 PM

View Postlbhitter, on 18 November 2012 - 08:36 PM, said:

View PostSocrates, on 18 November 2012 - 07:28 PM, said:

They are a 1/4" in diameter (.250") so they are smaller than any hosel.  They even fit inside iron shaft tips for a quick clean out of debris.

I just toss them when they are worn down to the nub.  They last a fair amount of time.  If it gets clogged up with residue, I just run it against a running sanding belt and clean it off (takes just a sec.).
Where do you buy them?
You won't find them on the shelf (you can see similar that are designed for sharpening from dremel, but they don't last) at your local store or hardware store for that matter.  You need to go to a a local supplier of abrasives for commercial purposes.  Describe or show them the pic I posted with the specs and they will be able to source them.  Lots of companies make them so there shouldn't be any problem finding them.
RH Ping i20 707D Stiff 44.5"
RH Jazz Bear Cat 3 wd Aerotech Stiff
RH Ping i20 3, 4 Hyb 707H Stiff
RH X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil Reg - D3
LH Scotty Cameron Golo Select 34"
Vokey SM2 52, Rotex 56-16 & 60-14

#19 NPVWhiz

NPVWhiz

    Major Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,557 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 11443
  • Joined: 02/07/2006
  • Location:Southern Ohio
GolfWRX Likes : 58

Posted 20 November 2012 - 08:23 PM

Holy moly...don't use an abrasive stone.  You'd be taking epoxy and metal off.  I guess if you have a really light touch it might work.

If you're prepping irons, you can do a bunch of things first before resorting to the full tilt version.

First, buy a medium sized rat tail file and some emery cloth.  Wrap a small length of emery cloth around the tip of the file, insert, and whirl the head around on it a bit.  That will remove quite a bit of epoxy that's been broken down with heat.

If you still have some left, try the following.  I know they're a bit expensive, but they are the best tool you'll ever find for cleaning up a hosel without marring or taking off a lot of metal.


http://new.lawsonpro...-Wheel/64682.lp

If you search their website, you can find other 3/8" flap wheels of different grits, and most have a shank long enough to fit in a dremel and still get to the bottom of a standard hosel.  I think the 3/8th 180 grit is what I've been using.  It fits almost perfectly into a standard 355 or 370 iron hosel, and after a little use will fit just fine into a 335 wood hosel.

I use these for most of my hobby prep work.

Another approach you can take for irons is to use an epoxy solvent/remover, available at hardware stores in a gel or thick liquid formulation.  This take a bit of extra time, as you have to use gloves and follow the safety instructions, but you basically fill the hosel with the stuff, let it sit overnight, and then use a qtip to clean out the gunk, then scrub out the hosels with some warm water and dish soap (I use the rat tail file with a strip of paper towel wrapped around it.)
Once the hosel is washed out, I rinse with some isopropanol, then dry and zip them out very lightly with the dremel (this is usually over doing it, but just to be certain I have bare metal), then rinse, dry again and assemble.

It really doesn't take as long as it sounds like, and the hosels are clean as a whistle afterward.   I've used this technique on woods that I've replaced the plastic hosel plug with a metal hosel bottom disc, but generally I only use the flapwheel on woods, unless the epoxy has really built up on the bottom of the bore.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Lawson Mini-Flap Wheel.jpg

Edited by NPVWhiz, 20 November 2012 - 08:36 PM.


#20 Socrates

Socrates

    Global Warming… I think not.

  • ClubWRX Charter Members
  • 4,646 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 60534
  • Joined: 07/15/2008
  • Location:Winnipeg
GolfWRX Likes : 702

Posted 20 November 2012 - 08:53 PM

View PostNPVWhiz, on 20 November 2012 - 08:23 PM, said:

Holy moly...don't use an abrasive stone.  You'd be taking epoxy and metal off.  I guess if you have a really light touch it might work.

If you're prepping irons, you can do a bunch of things first before resorting to the full tilt version.

First, buy a medium sized rat tail file and some emery cloth.  Wrap a small length of emery cloth around the tip of the file, insert, and whirl the head around on it a bit.  That will remove quite a bit of epoxy that's been broken down with heat.

If you still have some left, try the following.  I know they're a bit expensive, but they are the best tool you'll ever find for cleaning up a hosel without marring or taking off a lot of metal.


http://new.lawsonpro...-Wheel/64682.lp

If you search their website, you can find other 3/8" flap wheels of different grits, and most have a shank long enough to fit in a dremel and still get to the bottom of a standard hosel.  I think the 3/8th 180 grit is what I've been using.  It fits almost perfectly into a standard 355 or 370 iron hosel, and after a little use will fit just fine into a 335 wood hosel.

I use these for most of my hobby prep work.

Another approach you can take for irons is to use an epoxy solvent/remover, available at hardware stores in a gel or thick liquid formulation.  This take a bit of extra time, as you have to use gloves and follow the safety instructions, but you basically fill the hosel with the stuff, let it sit overnight, and then use a qtip to clean out the gunk, then scrub out the hosels with some warm water and dish soap (I use the rat tail file with a strip of paper towel wrapped around it.)
Once the hosel is washed out, I rinse with some isopropanol, then dry and zip them out very lightly with the dremel (this is usually over doing it, but just to be certain I have bare metal), then rinse, dry again and assemble.

It really doesn't take as long as it sounds like, and the hosels are clean as a whistle afterward.   I've used this technique on woods that I've replaced the plastic hosel plug with a metal hosel bottom disc, but generally I only use the flapwheel on woods, unless the epoxy has really built up on the bottom of the bore.
Epoxy remover sitting overnite might work for the guy who does a few clubs here and there, but doesn't cut it in the real world - time wise.  The wheel flap is no better or worse than a dremel bit.  It's not like you go in there and grind away for 2 minutes.  2-3 seconds and you are done.  If any metal comes off, it is likely measured in the 10,000 thousands of an inch.  Your way isn't wrong, just too slow for any shop work.

RH Ping i20 707D Stiff 44.5"
RH Jazz Bear Cat 3 wd Aerotech Stiff
RH Ping i20 3, 4 Hyb 707H Stiff
RH X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil Reg - D3
LH Scotty Cameron Golo Select 34"
Vokey SM2 52, Rotex 56-16 & 60-14

Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with existing members and access to certain forums. Join our community today and enter into a chance to win a free regular giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

Remove This Advertisement GolfWRX

GolfWRX

    Team Golfwrx

  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  

Viewing GolfWRX as Guest

Hide these ads and more. Join GolfWRX. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free.


You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with existing members and access to certain forums. Join our community today and enter into a chance to win a free regular giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.




#21 NPVWhiz

NPVWhiz

    Major Winner

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,557 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 11443
  • Joined: 02/07/2006
  • Location:Southern Ohio
GolfWRX Likes : 58

Posted 21 November 2012 - 07:18 PM

Definitely true.  I should preface most of my tips with the caveat that they're all hobbyist oriented...not at all suitable in most cases for volume shop work.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

GolfWRX Sponsors