20 replies to this topic

[That Bob Guy]

Hey guys,
I'm having some trouble removing residual epoxy from the bottom corners of a .355T hosel.
I don't see that anyone sells a .355 reamer.
What are you guys doing?

[jmcdonald]

Golf works has everything you need.

[QuickFeet]

McMaster-Carr will have 0.355 reamers.

http://www.mcmaster....reamers/=k7w7sx

[sung1018]

How do you get rid of epoxy residue from the neck?i had golfsmith reshaft my fairway wood and still have some epoxy residue on the neck. Is this possible to get off? Or is the club ruined?

[Awalkspoiled]

 TheBobGuy, on 18 November 2012 - 12:04 PM, said:

Hey guys,
I'm having some trouble removing residual epoxy from the bottom corners of a .355T hosel.
I don't see that anyone sells a .355 reamer.
What are you guys doing?

Just use the smallest bit you have and scour around in there on medium/low. You can also use a 1/4" sanding drum in a dremel but be careful with that - it spins fast enough to enlarge the bore.

[dieselG]

http://www.golfwrx.c...-cleaning-tool/

Works like a charm.

Edit: forgot to mention I made one for a .370 using a .370 shaft tip and one for a .355 using a .355 shaft tip.

Edited by dieselG, 18 November 2012 - 03:03 PM.

[Bunker33]

Wire brush on the end of a drill and a sanding sleeve to score n clean up the hosel.

[Socrates]

I use a 1/4" mounted bit in a dremel tool.  They can be bought (ordered in) at most commercial abrasive supply stores.  You want a:
Mounted Point Bit 1/4" x 1/2" with a 1/8" shank.  They are 2" long and I use them extensively.  They cost about $1.25 each and I order them in lots of 25.

[That Bob Guy]

 Socrates, on 18 November 2012 - 05:39 PM, said:

I use a 1/4" mounted bit in a dremel tool.  They can be bought (ordered in) at most commercial abrasive supply stores.  You want a:
Mounted Point Bit 1/4" x 1/2" with a 1/8" shank.  They are 2" long and I use them extensively.  They cost about $1.25 each and I order them in lots of 25.
MTD Bit.JPG

Is that the diameter at the bottom of the hosel in a 355T?

[Bunker33]

 Socrates, on 18 November 2012 - 05:39 PM, said:

I use a 1/4" mounted bit in a dremel tool.  They can be bought (ordered in) at most commercial abrasive supply stores.  You want a:
Mounted Point Bit 1/4" x 1/2" with a 1/8" shank.  They are 2" long and I use them extensively.  They cost about $1.25 each and I order them in lots of 25.
MTD Bit.JPG

When the grit is worn down do you have to throw the whole thing out? I use a 1/8th mandrel that i slide a sanding sleeve over. You can find the mandrel with the sleeves cheep at golfworks. Mandrel is 2 bucks n the replacements sleeves are like 50 cents

[Socrates]

They are a 1/4" in diameter (.250") so they are smaller than any hosel.  They even fit inside iron shaft tips for a quick clean out of debris.

I just toss them when they are worn down to the nub.  They last a fair amount of time.  If it gets clogged up with residue, I just run it against a running sanding belt and clean it off (takes just a sec.).

[lbhitter]

 Socrates, on 18 November 2012 - 07:28 PM, said:

They are a 1/4" in diameter (.250") so they are smaller than any hosel.  They even fit inside iron shaft tips for a quick clean out of debris.

I just toss them when they are worn down to the nub.  They last a fair amount of time.  If it gets clogged up with residue, I just run it against a running sanding belt and clean it off (takes just a sec.).

Where do you buy them?

[akim1220]

 TheBobGuy, on 18 November 2012 - 12:04 PM, said:

Hey guys,
I'm having some trouble removing residual epoxy from the bottom corners of a .355T hosel.
I don't see that anyone sells a .355 reamer.
What are you guys doing?

What have you tried so far?

[Nessism]

I use a small screwdriver and scrape out the epoxy while the head is still hot from pulling the shaft.  If you forget, just put a little heat in there after the shaft is out and scrape then.  No need for grinders, reamers, nothing.

[hardboiled]

 Nessism, on 18 November 2012 - 09:17 PM, said:

I use a small screwdriver and scrape out the epoxy while the head is still hot from pulling the shaft.  If you forget, just put a little heat in there after the shaft is out and scrape then.  No need for grinders, reamers, nothing.

This works like a charm.

[cmb71]

 hardboiled, on 18 November 2012 - 09:25 PM, said:

 Nessism, on 18 November 2012 - 09:17 PM, said:

I use a small screwdriver and scrape out the epoxy while the head is still hot from pulling the shaft.  If you forget, just put a little heat in there after the shaft is out and scrape then.  No need for grinders, reamers, nothing.

This works like a charm.

Ditto x 2.

[schlyer]

Heat it back up a bit, it'll come out easy then.

[Socrates]

 lbhitter, on 18 November 2012 - 08:36 PM, said:

 Socrates, on 18 November 2012 - 07:28 PM, said:

They are a 1/4" in diameter (.250") so they are smaller than any hosel.  They even fit inside iron shaft tips for a quick clean out of debris.

I just toss them when they are worn down to the nub.  They last a fair amount of time.  If it gets clogged up with residue, I just run it against a running sanding belt and clean it off (takes just a sec.).

Where do you buy them?

You won't find them on the shelf (you can see similar that are designed for sharpening from dremel, but they don't last) at your local store or hardware store for that matter.  You need to go to a a local supplier of abrasives for commercial purposes.  Describe or show them the pic I posted with the specs and they will be able to source them.  Lots of companies make them so there shouldn't be any problem finding them.

[NPVWhiz]

Holy moly...don't use an abrasive stone.  You'd be taking epoxy and metal off.  I guess if you have a really light touch it might work.

If you're prepping irons, you can do a bunch of things first before resorting to the full tilt version.

First, buy a medium sized rat tail file and some emery cloth.  Wrap a small length of emery cloth around the tip of the file, insert, and whirl the head around on it a bit.  That will remove quite a bit of epoxy that's been broken down with heat.

If you still have some left, try the following.  I know they're a bit expensive, but they are the best tool you'll ever find for cleaning up a hosel without marring or taking off a lot of metal.


http://new.lawsonpro...-Wheel/64682.lp

If you search their website, you can find other 3/8" flap wheels of different grits, and most have a shank long enough to fit in a dremel and still get to the bottom of a standard hosel.  I think the 3/8th 180 grit is what I've been using.  It fits almost perfectly into a standard 355 or 370 iron hosel, and after a little use will fit just fine into a 335 wood hosel.

I use these for most of my hobby prep work.

Another approach you can take for irons is to use an epoxy solvent/remover, available at hardware stores in a gel or thick liquid formulation.  This take a bit of extra time, as you have to use gloves and follow the safety instructions, but you basically fill the hosel with the stuff, let it sit overnight, and then use a qtip to clean out the gunk, then scrub out the hosels with some warm water and dish soap (I use the rat tail file with a strip of paper towel wrapped around it.)
Once the hosel is washed out, I rinse with some isopropanol, then dry and zip them out very lightly with the dremel (this is usually over doing it, but just to be certain I have bare metal), then rinse, dry again and assemble.

It really doesn't take as long as it sounds like, and the hosels are clean as a whistle afterward.   I've used this technique on woods that I've replaced the plastic hosel plug with a metal hosel bottom disc, but generally I only use the flapwheel on woods, unless the epoxy has really built up on the bottom of the bore.

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by NPVWhiz, 20 November 2012 - 08:36 PM.

[Socrates]

 NPVWhiz, on 20 November 2012 - 08:23 PM, said:

Holy moly...don't use an abrasive stone.  You'd be taking epoxy and metal off.  I guess if you have a really light touch it might work.

If you're prepping irons, you can do a bunch of things first before resorting to the full tilt version.

First, buy a medium sized rat tail file and some emery cloth.  Wrap a small length of emery cloth around the tip of the file, insert, and whirl the head around on it a bit.  That will remove quite a bit of epoxy that's been broken down with heat.

If you still have some left, try the following.  I know they're a bit expensive, but they are the best tool you'll ever find for cleaning up a hosel without marring or taking off a lot of metal.


http://new.lawsonpro...-Wheel/64682.lp

If you search their website, you can find other 3/8" flap wheels of different grits, and most have a shank long enough to fit in a dremel and still get to the bottom of a standard hosel.  I think the 3/8th 180 grit is what I've been using.  It fits almost perfectly into a standard 355 or 370 iron hosel, and after a little use will fit just fine into a 335 wood hosel.

I use these for most of my hobby prep work.

Another approach you can take for irons is to use an epoxy solvent/remover, available at hardware stores in a gel or thick liquid formulation.  This take a bit of extra time, as you have to use gloves and follow the safety instructions, but you basically fill the hosel with the stuff, let it sit overnight, and then use a qtip to clean out the gunk, then scrub out the hosels with some warm water and dish soap (I use the rat tail file with a strip of paper towel wrapped around it.)
Once the hosel is washed out, I rinse with some isopropanol, then dry and zip them out very lightly with the dremel (this is usually over doing it, but just to be certain I have bare metal), then rinse, dry again and assemble.

It really doesn't take as long as it sounds like, and the hosels are clean as a whistle afterward.   I've used this technique on woods that I've replaced the plastic hosel plug with a metal hosel bottom disc, but generally I only use the flapwheel on woods, unless the epoxy has really built up on the bottom of the bore.

Epoxy remover sitting overnite might work for the guy who does a few clubs here and there, but doesn't cut it in the real world - time wise.  The wheel flap is no better or worse than a dremel bit.  It's not like you go in there and grind away for 2 minutes.  2-3 seconds and you are done.  If any metal comes off, it is likely measured in the 10,000 thousands of an inch.  Your way isn't wrong, just too slow for any shop work.

[NPVWhiz]

Definitely true.  I should preface most of my tips with the caveat that they're all hobbyist oriented...not at all suitable in most cases for volume shop work.