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Handmade Putter - My first attempt


92 replies to this topic

#31 TripleGrindSole

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 02:59 PM

^^Very cool. Love seeing the progress that you are making. In it's current state, your putter almost looks Method-esque (001).

Looking forward to seeing how the steel rod flow neck takes shape.

Thanks for the pics and don't forget to keep 'em coming!


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#32 Stu-Co

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 03:13 PM

View PostTripleGrindSole, on 19 January 2013 - 02:59 PM, said:

^^Very cool. Love seeing the progress that you are making. In it's current state, your putter almost looks Method-esque (001).

Looking forward to seeing how the steel rod flow neck takes shape.

Thanks for the pics and don't forget to keep 'em coming!
+1 Can't wait to see how the neck turns out!   Keep up the good work!
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#33 Colby327

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 03:17 PM

Its looking great so far!
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#34 finchi5

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 05:05 PM

Just been thinking how I am gonna do the flowneck?  The bar I have is 10mm in diameter.  

I'm thinking the process will be:

1.  Turn the section/stub for the over hosel shaft I have
2.  Side mill two sides to create two flat sides (a la Santa Fe style) leaving a round section at the bottom which will fit full through bore into the head.
3.  Somehow heat** and bend the neck at the bottom to create offset and then bend it back to 90 deg a bit further up the neck.
4.  Install the shaft and bend to create the lie (using my friends putter loft and lie machine)

** I do not have access to an oxy-acet torch so I will try and use a mapp gas torch instead and see if that works.  

OR I will fit a double bend shaft or modify the plumbers neck I have and use that instead.

What do you guys think??  Are there any vids of anyone making a flowneck for a putter????

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#35 finchi5

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 05:25 PM

Milled the face today, and decided to try and rectify the plumbers neck.  I am not abandoning the flowneck idea yet, I think I will do both and see what suits best.

The picture of the neck on its own is what it looked like before, except the one shown is a little less clunky looking!

The stainless plumbers neck will either be welded (If I can find someone locally who can do it for me) or drilled and epoxied in place.

The head is carbon so this will have black oxide treatment and should look good against the polished neck

Attached Thumbnails

  • H003_1_XL.jpg
  • SL382951.jpg
  • SL382952.jpg
  • SL382953.jpg


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#36 golfluvzme

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 09:49 PM

Did you use a 1", 4-flute end mill for your face?  I like the look and it brings back memories of learning on my mill/drill.  I cannot tell you how many times I changed speeds, changed feed rates, changed the angle that the putter was sitting at and stuff like that, trying to get the look that the "real" putters have.  Finally, almost by accident, I purchased a 1-1/4", 2-insert indexable endmill off of eBay and POOF!  In the first pass, it was like a huge light came on.  THIS is what I was aiming for the entire time.  I was trying to create a look with a tool that would never give it to me.
Love the process pictures and I see that you have added radius or angles to the sole.  Did I miss the posts about you doing that?  Did you go with a rotary table, or mill flat areas at a different angle to the center section of the sole, then sand in the radius.  I love asking questions and that is usually how we learn the most.
Your idea to drill a port to set the neck in, then weld around the perimeter is perfect.  That way, there is support, beyond just the weld.  When welding SS to 1018 or vice/versa, the weld can get a little more fragile.  When you find a person to weld it, he will probably know what it takes to keep the weld from cracking.  Carbon Steel and SS cool at different rates and cracking is always a risk.   IMHO, the look when it is done with black oxide is worth the added effort and I look forward to seeing this one when she is ready to shaft up.
Thanks for sharing your adventure.
LaMont in AZ

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#37 brooky333

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 05:03 AM

looking real good keep sending the pics

brooky333

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#38 Stu-Co

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 08:02 AM

Plumber neck would look very cool with a gun blue head and polished or frosted neck.
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#39 golfluvzme

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:20 AM

Brooky,
I have to say that I am loving the avatar.  It is always cool to see work I have done, in places that I don't expect to see it.
Hope that it is treating you amazingly well.
LaMont in AZ

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#40 finchi5

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 02:34 PM

Hi LaMont, thanks for the input, its really appreciated again.

Did you use a 1", 4-flute end mill for your face?

I used the 1" indexable end mill you recommended a while back.  However, I only used one insert and it gave me the desired pattern.

Love the process pictures and I see that you have added radius or angles to the sole.  Did I miss the posts about you doing that?  Did you go with a rotary table, or mill flat areas at a different angle to the centre section of the sole, then sand in the radius

The relief angles were milled at an angle in the vice using a 2.5inch facing mill?? and then I shaped them on the belt grinder using various belts.  A rotary table would make things a lot easier though, but you've gotta work with what you've got :)

Going to speak to a welder this week so hopefully it will be done within a month inc black ox.  I think I will keep the plumbers neck and If it looks crap when its done, then make a flowneck - plan b!

I am going to put some kind of texture on the flange section of the cavity to hide some of the chatter marks caused by the extra long end mill. Probably some type of planished finish applied with the 'engineers screwdriver'!! ;)


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#41 PaulFitz

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 12:04 AM

That is one good looking putter!! Can't wait to see what it looks like when it has the neck on there!

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#42 finchi5

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 07:06 PM

Just wondering if welding the Stainless to the Mild Steel is ok.  I have read somewhere of bi-metallic/galvanic corrosion.  

Does anyone know anything about this??  

Are there any putters out there that have a carbon/mild steel head and a stainless neck?  

Still if the mild does start to corrode quickly, I can always cut the neck off later and weld a mild steel one on instead.

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#43 TripleGrindSole

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 10:23 PM

I think that it should be fine on a putter. If available, a 309 welding rod/wire would be best for the task (IMO). The actual process of welding should be no issue with the proper supplies.

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#44 deck

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 10:26 PM

Looking awesome so far. Love the design.
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#45 finchi5

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 04:04 PM

A little update, neck port has been drilled and the neck fits nice and snug.  Also, applied a little texture on the flange of the cavity as there were small chatter marks.  Fingers crossed the neck will be welded this next week.  Once it is back it will be stamped, have its final finish and be adjusted in a friends loft and lie machine.

Attached Thumbnails

  • SL382954.jpg
  • SL382955.jpg
  • SL382957.jpg


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#46 Hstead

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 04:30 PM

I like it.  If I could make one, which I can't, mostly because I do not have the equipment, and then the fact that I have no clue what I am doing if I did have the equipment, I would round the trailing edge a little and it would be perfect for me.  So when you are ready to make the second one, send me a PM and I may be the first buyer.
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#47 nutz4putters

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 04:50 PM

Nice work!  There's nothing simple about making an anser style - it's a rather complicated shape as you work through the details.  Keep it up, loving the pics!

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#48 Stu-Co

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 07:49 AM

Looking good Finchi5!
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#49 Bomber7

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 08:28 PM

Nice Work!

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#50 TripleGrindSole

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:48 PM

Just an off thought----I know you were saying that you were working on a steel rod flow neck...Have you considered an interchangeable neck (Almost like a Machine putter)...Heck you could probably just epoxy the plumbers neck in the neck port and then have a few different necks shafted up with grips on them to try out. That or maybe hold the neck on with a tiny allen bolt.


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#51 finchi5

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 03:38 PM

Thats an interesting thought with the interchangeable neck, however I have always wanted a weld bead showing as I like the look.  

I could figure out to accurately drill through the face and neck then tap the inside I could use a machine screw with a bit of loctite. Could be an idea for the next one :)

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#52 TripleGrindSole

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 09:24 PM

View Postfinchi5, on 28 January 2013 - 03:38 PM, said:

Thats an interesting thought with the interchangeable neck, however I have always wanted a weld bead showing as I like the look.  

I could figure out to accurately drill through the face and neck then tap the inside I could use a machine screw with a bit of loctite. Could be an idea for the next one :)


I was going to mention that in my previous post. Then you wouldn't get that cool weld-neck look!!

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#53 sihawker

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 01:58 AM

That is really nice can't wait to see the finished product!

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#54 finchi5

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 06:35 AM

Im giving the putter to my friend who is a welder tonight.  Fingers crossed he will get it done this week.

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#55 finchi5

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 04:21 PM

Received my welded putter tonight.  My friend used a tig weld on this and it came out quite well.  Head and neck now need finishing, stamping and black oxide.

Attached Thumbnails

  • SL383040.jpg


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#56 smellysell

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 05:37 PM

Awesome!

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#57 Stu-Co

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 07:20 PM

Very nice!  Clean weld on that thing... must have a steady hand!
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#58 finchi5

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 01:59 PM

He should have a steady hand - my mate has been doing this professionally for about 20 years!! :)

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#59 Locked

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 02:11 PM

Really cool build... can't wait to see the finished product.... I'd game it though, looks sexy and has a good story.

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#60 finchi5

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 04:28 PM

Just stamped my name in the cavity (C.Finch)  and decided to torch and oil quench the head - as I quite like the crafted look for this.  

The epoxy is just curing tonight and it will be ready to cut down and grip tomorrow night when I get in from work.  

Going with 34 inches in length and fitting a red leather stitchback grip.  

The shaft I've used is a true temper stepless 0.370 with a fluted section I managed to pick up a few years back.

I will take pics tomorrow and post them asap!

Head is 365g at the minute which is a little heavier than I am used to.  However, if needed I can port the cavity to reduce the weight.  

It may need a trip to my pro as well to do a final loft and lie check.


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