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Trimming driver shaft question? Mr. Wishon? Anyone?


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Wooderson

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 04:23 PM

Ok I am a big proponent of shorter drivers thanks to Mr. Wishon.  However with shafts getting longer and longer for OTR clubs it has me questioning if shaft companies are taking into account us short shafted guys when designing their shafts.  It seems to me that when you chop two inches off the butt of a shaft you would alter the overall bend profile of the shaft.  I conceptualize this when I think of Tom's zone profiling and realize that by cutting the two inches off I have shifted the measured zones.  For instance the 36 inch measurement is now two inches closer to my hands.  This has to alter feel and performance.  The only time that I wouldn't envision this is if the shaft measurements were linear or symmetrical in change and then you could split between the tip and butt and achieve the same feel and performance.  Tom or anyone else am I off base here?


#2 Wooderson

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 04:35 PM

Ok one more point.  Basically what I am wondering is if you have a shaft that plays in a 46 inch driver to get a shaft to play the exact same in a 44 inch driver wouldn't it have to be a scaled down version of the original?  Thanks?

#3 Awalkspoiled

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 06:49 PM

It would be more of a factor if the change in stoutness weren't so gradual. The idea of a "kickpoint" is so ingrained that we forget that no such place exists - there's just a relatively long, moderately softer zone which is centered more or less high on the shaft. What IS true is that as you add weight to the head you'll want to keep the shaft stout enough to respond well to the load, and you may very well also want a slightly heavier shaft. If I'm building a driver below 44" for a strong player I'll really encourage him to try something above 70gm, and I'll tip-trim about the way I would for a 3w, since the driver head has a longer BBGM anyway, the head is nearly as heavy as a 3w head, and the player is likely going to be making a pretty hard pass at the ball compared with the smoother move most guys have with 3w....
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#4 rybo

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 08:17 AM

Well not exactly.

The tip is the weakest part of the shaft and the butt is the strongest due to hoop strength.  So if you cut 2" off the butt end of the shaft you really do not change the overall profile of the shaft since you are removing a portion from the strongest section of the shaft.  Now trimming 2" off of the tip portion will definitely change the profile of the shaft since it would be removing the weakest portion.

#5 jaskanski

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 11:20 AM

View Postrybo, on 19 August 2012 - 08:17 AM, said:

Well not exactly.

The tip is the weakest part of the shaft and the butt is the strongest due to hoop strength.  So if you cut 2" off the butt end of the shaft you really do not change the overall profile of the shaft since you are removing a portion from the strongest section of the shaft.  Now trimming 2" off of the tip portion will definitely change the profile of the shaft since it would be removing the weakest portion.

Well, yes and no. The butt is indeed the stiffest part of most shafts and little or no effect comes from trimming 2" - until you try to restore swingweight by a substantial amount. A 2" butt trim from an original 46" overall length driver is quite a bit of swingweight to restore - some 12 swingweight points in fact (24 g) Anyone trying to add that amount of weight to the head to get back the swingweight would inevitably cause the shaft to play weaker to flex.

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#6 rybo

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 02:18 PM

View Postjaskanski, on 19 August 2012 - 11:20 AM, said:

View Postrybo, on 19 August 2012 - 08:17 AM, said:

Well not exactly.

The tip is the weakest part of the shaft and the butt is the strongest due to hoop strength.  So if you cut 2" off the butt end of the shaft you really do not change the overall profile of the shaft since you are removing a portion from the strongest section of the shaft.  Now trimming 2" off of the tip portion will definitely change the profile of the shaft since it would be removing the weakest portion.

Well, yes and no. The butt is indeed the stiffest part of most shafts and little or no effect comes from trimming 2" - until you try to restore swingweight by a substantial amount. A 2" butt trim from an original 46" overall length driver is quite a bit of swingweight to restore - some 12 swingweight points in fact (24 g) Anyone trying to add that amount of weight to the head to get back the swingweight would inevitably cause the shaft to play weaker to flex.

Since the OP's question was asked about profile only, my response only included the effects trimming had on the overall profile.  Did not see the need to clutter and confuse the response with additional information that the OP did not ask about.  However you are correct about the overall build when referring to the use of additional weight in the head.  Another way to get some of the swing weight back is to simply use a light weight grip.  No effect on shaft flex then.

#7 TomWishon

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 10:50 AM

View PostWooderson, on 18 August 2012 - 04:23 PM, said:

However with shafts getting longer and longer for OTR clubs it has me questioning if shaft companies are taking into account us short shafted guys when designing their shafts.  It seems to me that when you chop two inches off the butt of a shaft you would alter the overall bend profile of the shaft.

I conceptualize this when I think of Tom's zone profiling and realize that by cutting the two inches off I have shifted the measured zones.  For instance the 36 inch measurement is now two inches closer to my hands.  Tom or anyone else am I off base here?

From a PURE BEND PROFILE MEASUREMENT standpoint, no, you do not change the original shaft bend profile measurements when you cut off more from the butt end of the shaft.  The reason is because all the bend profile measurements are set up in inches UP FROM THE TIP END OF THE SHAFTS.  So for the purpose of the data base measurements, the bend profile measurements are the same regardless whether the shaft in question is 46" raw length or 44" butt trimmed length because all these measurements are done up from the tip, not down from the butt.  

NOW. . . how a shaft plays when installed in a club vs its original bend profile measurements most certainly can be a little bit different due to several factors other than the playing length of the club.  Bottom of bore to ground measurement is a big one as brought up by one of the posters.  How much headweight is put in the club is another one that can affect the FEEL of the shaft, depending on the golfer's sensitivity to shaft bending feel during the swing.  

There is just no possible way that any quantitative shaft measurement program could ever account for all these possible variables in how the shaft is installed and played.  So it is up to each clubmaker or golfer to look at each "change" and determine if that factor requires any type of shaft stiffness adjustment or not.  

One thing we have found when it comes to length is that there is an offsetting effect of the shorter shaft to the higher headweight.  Yes, making the same shaft 2" shorter from butt trimming will SLIGHTLY stiffen the shaft - any time you take the same shaft cut it shorter, the shaft itself will be a little stiffer.  But typically this is offset by the increased headweight that goes along with a shorter playing length, necessary to get the swingweight of the shorter club up to "normal" levels for the golfer.  

The trick of course is to try to guess whether the addition of more headweight to get the shorter length club up to a normal swingweight is enough to make the shaft play NOTICEABLY more flexible or not.  Most definitely there is no one hard and fast rule about this because shafts are designed differently in their stiffness progression - meaning shafts vary in how quickly their stiffness increases over their length.  

Typically we have found that when you are looking at the playing feel of a shaft at a 46" playing length vs at 44" playing length, the vast, vast, vast majority of golfers require no special tip trim alteration for the shaft at the two different lengths.  For a few golfers, yes, this can be possible depending on how refined their sense of bending feel for the shaft may be.  

So in the end, it really comes down to  this,  1) whether the golfer has played the shaft in question at a longer length like 46" and thus are familiar with its bending feel at that length;  2) whether they notice it playing more flexible or not at the shorter playing length.  

If so, then the shaft may have to be pulled and trimming adjusted, with an extender then put into the butt end to bring it back to the desired playing length.  But as I said, I would estimate that very very few golfers require such a trim adjustment when going from longer to shorter with the same shaft.  Over the MANY years I have been communicating with and corresponding with clubmakers and golfers about clubfitting and clubmaking matters, I cannot remember the last time it came up that a clubmaker found that his golfer thought the shaft to change enough in a length reduction that it required a shaft trim adjustment or a different shaft totally.  

So whack away from the butt, get the swingweight or MOI where you and your tempo like the headweight feel, and then go play with the club for a good period of time.  After that, then think about its shaft feel vs what you like and vs the performance of the club.  If you think the shaft really does play too flexible, then pull it and adjust its trim to see if you can get it right for your feel requirements.  

TOM

#8 duckjr78

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 04:13 PM

Here's an odd question that I thought up today.  Is there an advantage, perceived or otherwise, that makes it easier to hit up on a shorter driver vs. a longer one?

#9 Howard Jones

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:25 PM

To hit up in the ball, a inside out pattern is needed.
By theory a shorter club give a more steep angle of attack like with irons. (thats why static bounce goes up, but we also moves the ball position).When it comes to drivers, and the real world, the correct club length, weight and balance is the club the player has the best odds with.

A common error is the player him self, and it starts already at address
Ive seen to many players addressing the club with their hands in line, or even in front of the ball (DRIVER)
- DONT DO THAT
If you want to hit up in the ball, your hands at address must be behind the ball, and the club pointing to the center of your body.
Hands in line with, or worse, in front of the ball is #1 for negative AOA and the blocks to the right this players is struggling with.
Tee it high, hands behind the ball at address and magic happens :-.)
We only talk club specs in here, but ive seen this to many times, and its easy to change, so just get used to the strange set up and trust it.
This is a quick fix for the "wrong at address player" most is unaware of when we talk angle of attack. A change from minus 3, to plus 2 average can be achieved fast for many players.

Edited by Howard Jones, 20 August 2012 - 08:29 PM.


#10 mac94

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 08:39 PM

I love having Tom Wishon answer questions on here.

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