105 replies to this topic

[kellygreen]

phase3golf, on 30 April 2012 - 09:12 AM, said:

kellygreen, on 30 April 2012 - 09:05 AM, said:

phase3golf, on 30 April 2012 - 08:59 AM, said:

Good to hear from someone in the same situation!

Funny thing is, in my 20's I used to hit Dynamic Gold X100 in all my clubs but in saying that.........With the modern equipment (drivers especially) it's just not possible anymore!!!

I have checked out the Titleist options as I own a D3 and the upgrade charges on some of the shafts are phenomenal, especially in OZ!

Cheers for the advice bud

No problem...trust me, I sympathize.

Unfortunately, part of the price of having a swing like yours and mine is that it is expensive to produce graphite shafts that can withstand the forces we put on them.

But I prefer the frustration of having to pay-through-the-nose for expensive shafts to the frustration of having to go hunting for my golf ball.

Hahahaha, I don't have to look for it that much. Did you ever hit the Speeder 757? was the first non-steel shaft I hit in a driver and loved it! Can't afford anything to pricey at the moment...what are you currently hitting in your driver?

I remember the Speeder fondly.  I was just learning the game back them (my swingspeed is a product of having been a university-level baseball player here in the States), and the Speeder was the first graphite shaft I could put in a driver...and keep the ball in play!!!  That was when the light bulb went off...and I started taking a hard look at my equipment.

I'm currently playing the Aldilay RIP 80a X that I mentioned earlier in my driver.  I like consistency of feel...and there are very few courses in my area that play longer than 7000 yds.  So driving for me is more about keeping the ball in play, than trying to maximize my distance.

The RIP shaft is still expensive at $200 US, but less than the really-break-the-bank prices that Fujikura and Mitsubishi can charge.  If cost is an issue, you might want to consider the heavier UST Proforce V2 shafts.   They are very reasonably priced, and have very good torque ratings.   I have no personal experience playing any of them...but have heard good things about them from other strong swingers.

[phase3golf]

Was going to go that shaft as I did have success with that shaft in my 905R, however I think I am going to go with the Axivcore Tour Green in X-Flex from a few recommendations.

Cheers for the help and may pick up a V2 as a backup.....

[rybo]

Get your favorite shaft and tip it, and I mean tip it a lot!  1 1/2" - 2".  


If you can find a very tip stiff shaft to begin with, and then tip it aggressively.  This works!

[phase3golf]

What would you suggest? That is extreme tipping for a driver? My NV is tipped 1" and is pretty stiff but how much would you tip a driver shaft and still have feel and kick???

[rybo]

phase3golf, on 30 April 2012 - 10:09 AM, said:

What would you suggest? That is extreme tipping for a driver? My NV is tipped 1" and is pretty stiff but how much would you tip a driver shaft and still have feel and kick???

RIP 60X with a good 1 1/2" of tipping is a good start.  Interesting thing about this shaft is you can frequency it before tipping and then tip it 2" and barely get a reading difference.   It's so tip stiff to begin with that the butt reading changes very little as you tip it but plays way different!  No more over working it.  There are some severely tipped drivers on tour, Kusala Black tipped 1 1/2" and VC7.2 Tour spec over 1" that I can think of off the top of my head.

Feel and kick........feel is up to the golfer and since it sounds like you are over cooking it every now and then any type of kick isn't helping you.  Remember the tip of the shaft is the weakest section, removing some of the weakest section doesn't change the butt and mid sections only eliminates the weakest part.  This is why a stiff shaft can not be trimmed into an extra stiff.  Also you'd have no problem tip trimming a shaft for a 3 wood.....and the 3 wood has a lower BBGM then a driver, usually 1" vs 2".  So tip trimming a shaft 1" still produces a shaft with 1" additional tip length, when compared to a 3 wood, when installed in a driver head.  Sure a 3 wood has a bit more weight but not that much considering the additional length most drivers have over 3 woods ie 43" vs 44 1/2" - 45".  That 3 wood also feels fine.  Now depending on the head, say something like a R11 or R11s, the driver head can weigh as much as say a standard 3 wood head.

BBGM plays a huge role in understanding how a shaft performs in a given head.  Take two drivers heads, one has a BBGM of 1.5" and the other 2".  No tip trimming on either shaft and the 2" BBGM head will play softer at the same length.  Bore depth is not critical unless it is a bore thru head and I can not think of anyone still making those.  

Tip trimming a driver shaft 2" only makes the tip section equivalent to most 3 wood shafts.  1" difference in BBGM + 1" tip trimming.

[tembolo1284]

Get the stiffest shaft you can find...and also build up your grip more...especially under your right hand!

Good luck!

[C-Law]

Im in the same boat as you, play to a 1.3, and hit a hook with my driver.  I tried to go with the use a really stiff shaft to fix my hook method and it just never worked.  I fouund using something really stiff to try to fix a hook just made me have to start swinging harder and made everything worse.  Didnt want to be one of the people who gave a "fix your swing" response but i tried this and it just flat out didnt work.

[rybo]

C-Law -

The trick is to use a shaft that is a bit lower in weight so there is no problem getting overwhelmed by the perception of the stiffer feel.  Hence my response of the RIP 60X.

[kg92lefty]

fix your swing first then worry about shafts.

[TomWishon]

phase3golf, on 30 April 2012 - 05:40 AM, said:

Looking for the perfect shaft in the 75 gram range? Normally use Aldila NV 75 X and have a SS of 116-122mph and very aggressive transition. Find most of the shafts these days to be to light and uncontrollable!

Any good suggestions within a lower budget? Even looking at older shafts as long as I can take the left side out of play for good!!!

Thanks for any advice in advance

Phase3:

1.  A more open face angle than what you have now.  This is for sure the number one way to change dispersion with a driver.  

2.  Heavier total weight AND with higher swingweight to go with it.  Yes, you are right in saying that a fast, forceful aggressive transition move does for sure bring about more of a possibility to hit the ball left.  Too light of a shaft means too light of a total weight which can contribute to this.  But most definitely going with a more prnounced headweight feel, which means higher swingweight should be done in combination with the heavier shaft weight.  And typically if a golfer pulls or hooks the ball from too light of a shaft, 75g is not going to be heavy enough and you should be thinking minimum of 85g up to 90-95g.  

TOM

[kellygreen]

TomWishon, on 30 April 2012 - 04:15 PM, said:

Phase3:

1.  A more open face angle than what you have now.  This is for sure the number one way to change dispersion with a driver.  

2.  Heavier total weight AND with higher swingweight to go with it.  Yes, you are right in saying that a fast, forceful aggressive transition move does for sure bring about more of a possibility to hit the ball left.  Too light of a shaft means too light of a total weight which can contribute to this.  But most definitely going with a more prnounced headweight feel, which means higher swingweight should be done in combination with the heavier shaft weight.  And typically if a golfer pulls or hooks the ball from too light of a shaft, 75g is not going to be heavy enough and you should be thinking minimum of 85g up to 90-95g.  

TOM

I guess the Rombaxes go back in the closet for good.....

Quick question.    Is it true that a club with an open face angle delofts the face by the same amount when it's returned to square?  So a 9.5 driver with a 0.5* open face angle becomes effectively a 9* when square at impact?

Thanks.

[phase3golf]

TomWishon, on 30 April 2012 - 04:15 PM, said:

phase3golf, on 30 April 2012 - 05:40 AM, said:

Looking for the perfect shaft in the 75 gram range? Normally use Aldila NV 75 X and have a SS of 116-122mph and very aggressive transition. Find most of the shafts these days to be to light and uncontrollable!

Any good suggestions within a lower budget? Even looking at older shafts as long as I can take the left side out of play for good!!!

Thanks for any advice in advance

Phase3:

1.  A more open face angle than what you have now.  This is for sure the number one way to change dispersion with a driver.  

2.  Heavier total weight AND with higher swingweight to go with it.  Yes, you are right in saying that a fast, forceful aggressive transition move does for sure bring about more of a possibility to hit the ball left.  Too light of a shaft means too light of a total weight which can contribute to this.  But most definitely going with a more prnounced headweight feel, which means higher swingweight should be done in combination with the heavier shaft weight.  And typically if a golfer pulls or hooks the ball from too light of a shaft, 75g is not going to be heavy enough and you should be thinking minimum of 85g up to 90-95g.  

TOM

Just the "LEGEND" I was hoping would tune in to this dilemma of mine and thanks for doing so!

Here is where it get interesting....I also have a Mizuno MP-630 Fast Track which I put a 88 gram NV X in and the strange thing is, I hook that worse than my D3 with a 78 gram NV X....I have the D3 set  to the most open setting and 8.75 degree loft and hit maybe 2 bad hooks per round...with the Mizuno, I hit 6-7 bad hooks??? Is it just the open face and lower loft that is stopping the hooks???

The D3 has a Swing Weight of D5 and the Mizuno has a Swing weight of D6? I can feel the head better in the D3?

Anything you can come up with on that? Cheers

[cxx]

I've never seen your swing so I wouldn't offer advice on it.  I do wonder if you have someone you work with on your swing and what their opinion of the issue is.  It would seem that this person would be in the very best position to provide real guidance, especially if they do fitting also.

On the other hand its always fun to try something new to see.

[phase3golf]

cxx, on 30 April 2012 - 07:42 PM, said:

I've never seen your swing so I wouldn't offer advice on it.  I do wonder if you have someone you work with on your swing and what their opinion of the issue is.  It would seem that this person would be in the very best position to provide real guidance, especially if they do fitting also.

On the other hand its always fun to try something new to
see.

My swing is always analyzed on camera and is very solid. As said previously, the only time I really fault is when I swing too hard.

In saying that, no one is perfect 100% of the time, so I am trying to achieve more consistency with the big stick and take the dreaded left side out of play and for us heavy
hitters, that's hard work.

Also, would love to be able to hit a fade again when needed! Not a hope in hell with the big d!!!

[Cwebb]

This shaft exists.  It's the UST VTS Black "Tour X".  

There's two things that will minimize what a shaft will contribute to "rate of closure".....the overall bend profile from butt to tip and actual torque.  The shaft mentioned above takes care of both of these.

Also, don't be afraid to test a heavier weight.  The above shaft is offered in a 90g model, which is a very "proportional" weight in a driver for those using 125-130g shafts in their irons.  They also have in 100g to match up in fairway woods.

Edited by Cwebb, 01 May 2012 - 12:49 AM.

[SurfinTurf]

phase3golf, on 30 April 2012 - 09:03 AM, said:

jdmorris1980, on 30 April 2012 - 08:57 AM, said:

phase3golf, on 30 April 2012 - 07:34 AM, said:

Had hit the C-kua in X and was a good shaft but unfortunately, their X flex suits between 100-110mph. Cheers

I believe he was referring to the Kusala black

Didn't pick up on that? My point is they play weak to flex and don't do a XX........

Kusala Black 83x would surely out perform your NV 75 X.

[phase3golf]

I have no doubt about that! Miyazaki make awesome products and I like their international flex code system...

I have ordered a Ust Axivcore Tour Green in 87 X . Apparently from many recommendations, this shaft will do the trick!

I did look at the VTS Black but can't afford that at the moment.

Will post results once I have this shaft firing. Cheers for all the "HO-ING" advice

[cxx]

phase3golf, on 01 May 2012 - 12:36 AM, said:

cxx, on 30 April 2012 - 07:42 PM, said:

I've never seen your swing so I wouldn't offer advice on it.  I do wonder if you have someone you work with on your swing and what their opinion of the issue is.  It would seem that this person would be in the very best position to provide real guidance, especially if they do fitting also.

On the other hand its always fun to try something new to
see.

My swing is always analyzed on camera and is very solid. As said previously, the only time I really fault is when I swing too hard.

In saying that, no one is perfect 100% of the time, so I am trying to achieve more consistency with the big stick and take the dreaded left side out of play and for us heavy
hitters, that's hard work.

Also, would love to be able to hit a fade again when needed! Not a hope in hell with the big d!!!

I was thinking of the fade. Since you probably already have enough distance to play any reasonable course the fade would be your friend, especially with the driver.

I have had this problem with overswinging several times a round. My swing speed is considerably slower and there are many more shaft options for me. Fitting a shaft to handle my overswing resulted in a club that was hard work all day long.  Its worse to have a too soft shaft for sure but too stiff was no picnic either.

I have a friend who is fairly tall 6'3" or 6'4" and had the best looking swing at the club.  He got effortless distance.  The problem was that by the 6th hole he was swinging like Gary Player, with a giant step after each shot.  It didn't work out for him.

[rybo]

Phase3

The D3 has a Swing Weight of D5 and the Mizuno has a Swing weight of D6? I can feel the head better in the D3?

This makes perfect sense.  Even though the Mizuno has a higher swingweight then the Titleist the difference in shaft weight and the subsequent movement in balance point is why the D5 swing weight club feels more head heavy then the D6 swingweight.  The Titleist has a higher percentage of total weight in the head. I'm not surprised at all that you had more hook problems with the heavier shafted/swing weight club.



Think about why you are over-swinging.  Is the club so heavy that is causing you to swing out of your shoes to get it to perform?  Are you flipping your hands through at the bottom of the swing?  If so, why?

Heavier clubs don't always effect every person the same way, especially those with higher swing speeds.  The conventional wisdom of a heavier shaft for your situation sometimes produces the opposite effect.  We have similar swing speeds and have been down this road. A D3 or D4 swingweighted club built with a lightweight shaft will have more of a pronounced head weight feel compared to either of your current drivers.  May even be easier to swing.

[phase3golf]

rybo, on 01 May 2012 - 07:18 AM, said:

Phase3

The D3 has a Swing Weight of D5 and the Mizuno has a Swing weight of D6? I can feel the head better in the D3?

This makes perfect sense.  Even though the Mizuno has a higher swingweight then the Titleist the difference in shaft weight and the subsequent movement in balance point is why the D5 swing weight club feels more head heavy then the D6 swingweight.  The Titleist has a higher percentage of total weight in the head. I'm not surprised at all that you had more hook problems with the heavier shafted/swing weight club.



Think about why you are over-swinging.  Is the club so heavy that is causing you to swing out of your shoes to get it to perform?  Are you flipping your hands through at the bottom of the swing?  If so, why?

Heavier clubs don't always effect every person the same way, especially those with higher swing speeds.  The conventional wisdom of a heavier shaft for your situation sometimes produces the opposite effect.  We have similar swing speeds and have been down this road. A D3 or D4 swingweighted club built with a lightweight shaft will have more of a pronounced head weight feel compared to either of your current drivers.  May even be easier to swing.

Agree to a point on this statement! Always had the best results at D4-5.....

However, I am 6'4, very strong, martial arts for 25 years and don't have a problem with the weight in the shafts...maybe it's the 2 different heads like you said???

Can not hit a light weight shaft at all! tried rip X for example and did not hit 1 drive straight? Puzzling to say the least???

The recommendation I have had from numerous people have been the axis tour green, so I have purchased the 87 X and from what I am hearing, it's a counter balanced shaft that will be super tight but feel lighter???

Hope this works out but for $85, I cant go wrong...always chuck it in a fairway

[SeekonkHolen1]

The tour Green is tip balanced so you will feel the head more. The Black, Red, and Blue are counter balanced.

[D Rail]

i still play a 757 today and it works great. why did you guys that had success with the 757 get away from it?

[xerpro]

Whiteboard 83X. That would do the trick...You can find them on the bay for 100 or less.
As a club fitter, I agree, heavier would help.
You could always beef up and get a house of forged shaft.
Most of those are anti-left.

[Rosco1216]

I am at 125-129ss and am trying many shafts to try and eliminate the left side.  The Axivcore tour green 75X is good for the money and will give you the ball flight and spin you would like however it will lack in the feel department.  But if you're strictly looking at performance and price, it is very safe bet.  I also had a speeder 7.1X and like that as well.  I would have preferred a 7.2X for the lower flight and spin but I found the 7.1X for only $75 so I gave it a try.  7.1 felt great but was just a little too high of flight and spin.  I have sold both in search of the best shaft.  I currently am trying the VTS tour SPX 7X is hopes it would give me the flight of the green series but with better feel.  Personally i'm not as impressed with it as i thought i would be but I should have gotten the XX.  I am now ordering a 7.2X tour spec.

[rybo]

Phase3

We sound very similar. I'm 6' 4", 245lbs with a 36-38" waist and a professional golfer. Have been a avid skier, spent many a mile on a road bike, did triathlons for awhile and even did a 1/2 Ironman.  You could say big and strong.  I have no problem swinging heavier shafts either.  But I do understand, unfortunately mostly through trial and error at my expense, what heavier shafts in a driver can do to your swing.  I doubt the RIP you tried was tipped 2" or more (mine is 2 1/2") as most shops would not even attempt this as it only has a 2 1/2" parallel tip length.  I'm currently hitting a R11s 10.5* set to 9.75* with the RIP 60X at D4, 44 3/4" and this combo is a monster!!  I've tried a bunch of shafts in this head and this is by far the best. (VC7.2 Tour spec tipped 3/4", Devotion 7 05 tipped 1/2", Miyazaki Black 72x tipped 1/2", Motore F1 3.2, Nunchuk, Whiteboard 72X tipped 1 1/2", Blueboard 72X tipped 3/4", Grafalloy Blue X, & RIP 60X w/ 1/2" tip trim)  All of these have been in the past 3 1/2 weeks.

If you can find one that Fujikura Motore F1 3.2 will not go left.  This is the most anti left shaft I have ever hit and that is with no tip trimming.  Stout is an understatement.  I could easily play this shaft but it is a bit too heavy, like D7 - D8, in the R11s head which is why I kept looking and it just felt odd to me in the lighter RBZ head even though the swingweight was D5.  This might be the one shaft that was truly just too much for me, but I've only hit it in those two heads.  This shaft was a Tour only release but there are some around.

The Axivcore Green is a good shaft; and as others have already stated it's tip weighted, not counterbalanced, and can have a muted feel to it.

[phase3golf]

rybo, on 01 May 2012 - 04:14 PM, said:

Phase3

We sound very similar. I'm 6' 4", 245lbs with a 36-38" waist and a professional golfer. Have been a avid skier, spent many a mile on a road bike, did triathlons for awhile and even did a 1/2 Ironman.  You could say big and strong.  I have no problem swinging heavier shafts either.  But I do understand, unfortunately mostly through trial and error at my expense, what heavier shafts in a driver can do to your swing.  I doubt the RIP you tried was tipped 2" or more (mine is 2 1/2") as most shops would not even attempt this as it only has a 2 1/2" parallel tip length.  I'm currently hitting a R11s 10.5* set to 9.75* with the RIP 60X at D4, 44 3/4" and this combo is a monster!!  I've tried a bunch of shafts in this head and this is by far the best. (VC7.2 Tour spec tipped 3/4", Devotion 7 05 tipped 1/2", Miyazaki Black 72x tipped 1/2", Motore F1 3.2, Nunchuk, Whiteboard 72X tipped 1 1/2", Blueboard 72X tipped 3/4", Grafalloy Blue X, & RIP 60X w/ 1/2" tip trim)  All of these have been in the past 3 1/2 weeks.

If you can find one that Fujikura Motore F1 3.2 will not go left.  This is the most anti left shaft I have ever hit and that is with no tip trimming.  Stout is an understatement.  I could easily play this shaft but it is a bit too heavy, like D7 - D8, in the R11s head which is why I kept looking and it just felt odd to me in the lighter RBZ head even though the swingweight was D5.  This might be the one shaft that was truly just too much for me, but I've only hit it in those two heads.  This shaft was a Tour only release but there are some around.

The Axivcore Green is a good shaft; and as others have already stated it's tip weighted, not counterbalanced, and can have a muted feel to it.

Cheers Rybo, it's just a coin factor for me at the moment....Tip heavy has always done the trick in the past so could be a good thing? Not spending mass coin on it so im not phased. I have had best success with the 75 gram range but on Tom's advice, i'm going to try the 87 X and see how it goes. If it's a big fail, it will make an awesome fairway shaft!!! Will "HO" some more when I get the coin....

[phase3golf]

D Rail, on 01 May 2012 - 03:00 PM, said:

i still play a 757 today and it works great. why did you guys that had success with the 757 get away from it?

Like most of us, the next "big thing" comes out and we jump on board!!!

Best shaft success I ever had was with the V2 77 gram X and will be looking for one on the bay....cheers

[phase3golf]

The biggest killer is I sold my D3 and only have the MP-630 F/T left to play with so I wont know if the different heads were an issue? The Mizuno head weighs 202 grams so with that shaft I have purchased, I believe it will come in at a D5 swing weight....so if I can feel the head more in the swing, this should work, I hope!!!

[lukesmurf59]

the Nunchuk might work.  Plus it feels like 75g, you should like that.  very stiff tip and straight, not really gonna like to hook.

[Cwebb]

Consider tip trimming the Tour Green, to make it a stronger X.  This will bring the overall bend profile closer to the VTS series, which are stiffer overall.  If you don't like it, like you said, you can use it in a fairway wood which would need tipping anyways.