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Playing Hickory Golf


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#1711 Bella Woods

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Posted 24 January 2016 - 05:58 PM

Chris:

I think you don't need to worry so much about the type of grass as much as the "condition" of it,
Hard, soft, wet or dried out etc. I made the mistake of playing a few lofted shots at Carnoustie
with a niblick with a lot of bounce on it - should have used the thinner soled niblick.

The answer is to bring both sets - then you will be ready for anything..... (actually I would bring
your skinny bladed FO/RTJs - I think you will probably be able to play them well in both Florida and
California). And if does not turn out so good - everyone will admire your clubs anyway.


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#1712 stixman

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 11:20 AM

Good point, Bella. Question is ,'can I afford the insurance?'
A solitary FO/RTJ 6 iron sold for £277 sterling here on Ebay over the weekend :o  Now that sounds a lot to me. Is there a new generation of collectors coming on stream?

Seriously though, I haven't played them for a while, and they deserve an outing!
Joe Powell Mock Hickory Driver
3 + 5 Mac. Custom Persimmon
Apex II,or 1968 Dynas, or Nicoll Cottons
Wilson PW
1935 Wilson R90, real deal
Chris H

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#1713 ebeer

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 01:04 PM

I don't have any FO/RTJ's, but I do play "standard" Stewart and Nicoll clubs as my playset (US West Coast...California, Oregon, Washington, Arizona).  I don't think they dig too much.  I do have some wider soled clubs (a wide flanged niblick and some Spalding Custom Made irons).  Not sure I see an advantage of one over the other.  I would more concentrate on bringing clubs to manage an aerial assault.  Not sure where you are playing, but most of the courses I play (even hickory era courses with original 1920's design) require the American target approach.  Tee shots often require carry, greens often elevated and guarded by bunkers, and fairways are often soft providing little runout option for tee shots that carry that 175 and rollout to 230.  I like a jigger for high flying longer approach shots and usually carry two niblicks (one flanged for sand and green side flops, and one 52ish thin soled Stewart that covers everything from to 110yds to short approach shots).  Recommend a brassie or higher lofted driving club that gets up consistently as carry is king for many US courses IMO.

Various Brassies depending on mood: Winton, MacGregor, Burr Key, and Wilson

George Nicoll 2 Iron

Tom Stewart: Mashie Iron, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick

Burke Flanged Niblick

Putters: AG Spalding or Standard Mills - depends if I want to miss right or left ;)


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#1714 majic

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 03:27 PM

View Poststixman, on 22 January 2016 - 04:31 PM, said:

I have a question about hickory golf in America. You have different grasses, cool season bents etc in the Northern States and bermudas etc in the Southern. Variations of course occur with overseeding plus the mixed conditions existing in the center of the country.
Are there favored iron head styles which take into account these different cultivars? Would you ideally play a skinny blade in the North and a Maxwell,for example, in the South?


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#1715 majic

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 03:30 PM

Stix in the MacGregor catalog they reference a different part of the country for the flanged OA and Popular " B" series. I always assumed it was for the Southern markets.
I prefer these anyway. I never had an issue when being a member at Royal Troon I played. I am not a digger however.
Bring what you enjoy playing


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#1716 stixman

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 04:29 AM

Gentlemen, thank you for your thoughtful and insightful observations.

I shall now retire to the club room (garage) with a wet towel around my throbbing temples and select an ill-assorted disparate collection of hickories and persuade myself that they are appropriate for the task in hand.

I may commit these follies to camera :wacko:
Joe Powell Mock Hickory Driver
3 + 5 Mac. Custom Persimmon
Apex II,or 1968 Dynas, or Nicoll Cottons
Wilson PW
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Chris H

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#1717 Blade Junkie

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 09:12 AM

View Poststixman, on 26 January 2016 - 04:29 AM, said:

Gentlemen, thank you for your thoughtful and insightful observations.

I shall now retire to the club room (garage) with a wet towel around my throbbing temples and select an ill-assorted disparate collection of hickories and persuade myself that they are appropriate for the task in hand.

I may commit these follies to camera :wacko:

We'll be fine Chris. I'll be playing a set I've never even seen let alone hit a ball with :)

One thing about being a classic/vintage club enthusiast is that you get to hit an awful lot of different clubs, and you quickly realise that your "score" is not really linked to a particular set or style of clubs, and is mainly a function of putting - how many 5-15 footers do you actually hole when the opportunity presents. It takes away all the uncertainty about having the "right" set of clubs for me !


My set will be "skinny blades" for the record, and I just know they are 100% perfect for conditions in Florida ... mainly because they will be the only option I will have out there ...  :)

Edited by Blade Junkie, 26 January 2016 - 09:14 AM.

Florida "Ugly Duckling" Set
  • Cleveland VAS Driver, 3-Wood
  • Cleveland VAS Irons 1-P, D, Cleveland 588 SW 58°
  • Putter TBC

Florida "Hickory" Set
  • MacGregor B23 Brassie
  • MacGregor Peerless Nokorode Irons - 2-Mid Iron, 3-Mid Mashie, 4-Mashie Iron, 5-Mashie, 5X-Spade Mashie, 6-Mashie Niblick, 7-Pitcher, 9-Niblick
  • MacGregor Peerless Nokorode 10-Putter



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#1718 stixman

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 09:20 AM

View PostBlade Junkie, on 26 January 2016 - 09:12 AM, said:

View Poststixman, on 26 January 2016 - 04:29 AM, said:

Gentlemen, thank you for your thoughtful and insightful observations.

I shall now retire to the club room (garage) with a wet towel around my throbbing temples and select an ill-assorted disparate collection of hickories and persuade myself that they are appropriate for the task in hand.

I may commit these follies to camera :wacko:

We'll be fine Chris. I'll be playing a set I've never even seen let alone hit a ball with :)

One thing about being a classic/vintage club enthusiast is that you get to hit an awful lot of different clubs, and you quickly realise that your "score" is not really linked to a particular set or style of clubs, and is mainly a function of putting - how many 5-15 footers do you actually hole when the opportunity presents. It takes away all the uncertainty about having the "right" set of clubs for me !


My set will be "skinny blades" for the record, and I just know they are 100% perfect for conditions in Florida ... mainly because they will be the only option I will have out there ...  :)

Don't deny me a few theatricals, you know you love it!

I like your comment re. putting and those 5-15 footers, you haven't been having a chat with Rory, have you? :lol:
Joe Powell Mock Hickory Driver
3 + 5 Mac. Custom Persimmon
Apex II,or 1968 Dynas, or Nicoll Cottons
Wilson PW
1935 Wilson R90, real deal
Chris H

8

#1719 gvogel

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 01:04 PM

View Poststixman, on 24 January 2016 - 05:10 PM, said:

View PostBlade Junkie, on 24 January 2016 - 04:14 PM, said:

View Poststixman, on 22 January 2016 - 04:31 PM, said:

I have a question about hickory golf in America. You have different grasses, cool season bents etc in the Northern States and bermudas etc in the Southern. Variations of course occur with overseeding plus the mixed conditions existing in the center of the country.
Are there favored iron head styles which take into account these different cultivars? Would you ideally play a skinny blade in the North and a Maxwell,for example, in the South?

Sounds like you're trying to decide which clubs to take to Cali and Florida !

Any pointers from our friends in the USA ?

Was it that blatent?  Not very subtle, was I ?

Actually there is a point to the question. I prefer skinny blades, my FO/RTJs for example (and don't you just love a good 'name-drop') on a tight turfed links course where you can squeeze the ball and clubs with bounce work not so well, and I like Maxwells etc on meadow land courses. I thought maybe some folk on the other side might take a view.
Now Florida and bermudas, I imagine, would be more akin to what,exactly?

IF you are playing Temple Terrace in Florida, I think that you will find the fairways to be pretty firm.  My recollection is that the iron shots that call for elevation, because of raised greens or bunkers in front, are mostly par 3's - so you will have the advantage of being able to use a tee for those.  The rest of the greens can be accessed with lower, running shots, if needs be.  If you happen to find the rough, you will find them to be sandy and with some pine straw close to trees.

Hope that helps.
On Sundays, I play hickory

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#1720 jonnygrouville

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 05:39 AM

Don't worry about your score.  Let it looks after itself.  Enjoy every shot.  Enjoy the surroundings, the company, the clubs you're playing with, you lucky ba$tard.

Hope that helps.


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#1721 Fellaheen51

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 08:49 AM

Questions for the hickory folks about straightening shafts.  Have a couple with some bows in them.  With one, I've been able to remove about 80% of the bow by using a heat gun and a vise.  Heating and bending using the eyeball technique.  Rotating it 90* and "manipulating" the shaft into some degree of straightness.  Surprised by how well this works.  Using my entirely rudimentary techniques.

1.  Once straightened, will it stay straight over time?
2.  Other than a full scale straightening jig, any other tips or techniques you folks use?  With a home hobbyist set of tools in mind.  
3.  This may be a stupid question to ask.  Do you you play clubs that may not have "ruler straight" shafts (particularly under the grip)?

TIA.  Could post some pics if needed.  Set is coming together, been working on them of late.  Hammering, filing and Dremel'ing them into some degree of respectability.  But, not quite ready for primetime yet.
It's good sportsmanship to not pick up lost golf balls while they are still rolling. - Mark Twain

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#1722 ebeer

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 10:30 AM

Pretty much all you need to know is right here in this video.  https://www.youtube....h?v=WTYltcpJ5Fc

The straightening tool can be purchased here http://www.hickorygo...com/-tools.html

I use a simpler (errr, cheaper) but still effective method by taking a 2x4 with straight guide lines drawn down the middle.  I then drill holes wherever necessary in the wood to place dowels, which hold the club straight and allow me to apply heat.  I also have a small work table with a gliding top.  Recently I starting using this hold shape, then apply heat both top and bottom of shaft.  It works pretty good as well.

I think the important part as Gary explains is to get really hot without scorching and then allow to fully cool before removing from your jig of choice.

IMG_4283.jpg

IMG_4284.jpg

Various Brassies depending on mood: Winton, MacGregor, Burr Key, and Wilson

George Nicoll 2 Iron

Tom Stewart: Mashie Iron, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick

Burke Flanged Niblick

Putters: AG Spalding or Standard Mills - depends if I want to miss right or left ;)


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#1723 stixman

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 10:39 AM

Getting the shaft evenly hot without scorching is the key. Once achieved hickory will bend with ease.

I use a home made attachment ot my heatgun. It's very simple. It's a baked bean can with both ends removed. A hole is made with tin snips in the side, large enough to take the heatgun nozzle. The hole is cut from a center point with the cuts radiating outwards to the hole diameter,; bent back these form the tin lugs which secure the can to the nozzle.
Joe Powell Mock Hickory Driver
3 + 5 Mac. Custom Persimmon
Apex II,or 1968 Dynas, or Nicoll Cottons
Wilson PW
1935 Wilson R90, real deal
Chris H

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#1724 Fellaheen51

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 11:19 AM

Thank you gentlemen for your responses.  I experienced some return to a bow while "experimenting" yesterday (upon examination this a.m.).   Mostly likely because I did not use a jig and allow the shaft to cool while being held in place.  Dug out the ShopMate this morning and will give it a go.  If not satisfactory, will build one of those cheap jig setups.  Thanks for the pic.  

As a novice, I was concerned with overheating the wood.  Seems that the hotter, the better (short of scorching).  Thanks for posting the video ebeer, that was helpful.  

Visualizing, once the can is attached, the heat is dispersed evenly 360* as you move the shaft through the can?  Then, after heating, place the shaft into a jig?

As long as I'm performing this reclamation project, might as well do it right.
It's good sportsmanship to not pick up lost golf balls while they are still rolling. - Mark Twain

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