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Playing Hickory Golf


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#811 MoaningM

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 09:07 AM

View Posthollabachgt, on 24 October 2014 - 07:31 AM, said:


That image is not truthful and is a byproduct of the rolling shutter effect common with digital cameras, especially cell phones and tablets.

This may give you a better idea of what the club is doing through impact

Great vid, cheers for that shame it didnt show what occured in the backswing and from the top down, i can feel hickory torque more so from the transition, would be interesting to see.

Edited by MoaningM, 24 October 2014 - 09:09 AM.


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#812 majic

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 09:23 AM

Well a lot of interesting reading. I am going to make a few comments as someone that has seen the hickory game go from a very few players (12-20) in the USA that gave a darn about playing-playing not collecting.
In 1990 We all played original clubs. We all attended many golf shows during a year. 5 or 6. Back then there were many places clubs could be found. Not EBay . John Sherwood was alive and bringing hundreds of playable clubs over here several times a year. When he arrived Ralph Livingston got first pick of Stewarts, next Randy or sometimes Randy first.
Nicoll clubs were Roger Hill to go over. I got the pick of Gibson. I also scoured the trade rooms and people new I wanted flanged MacGregor. Ultimately Chris McIntyre, Chuck McMullin and a few others knew John had the playable clubs.
It took me years to put together a good set of Gibson and a good set of MacGregor irons. Same with woods.
This was an expensive proposition. I wanted the best clubs and committed to finding them. I was a very good stick. Could shoot par or better with hickory.
My point I am making is that there are few good sets or even clubs out in the market today. Not like in the "old" days. Certainly not woods.
As the hickory game grew with more people getting interested the growth of reproductions being used has increased.
My Four Ball, Mid Pines and a few others created interest in fun and enjoyable play. Some took it very serious and others not so much. Some people by their nature want to use antique or original heads. They will not even use retro fit woods or new shafts. I think this is great. Go for it. I recently added two clubs to my original set and I think it is now pretty good. Players who love using the original clubs typically have a very strong opinion about that. A lot of them started playing when good clubs were more available. These people try to influence people and are short sighted about the game. I place people that like to only use the reproduction ball in this category. It's cool. Use it if you want. It was created by Chris so he could make more money from his rental business and be different then other club rental businesses.
When the sale of Ralph's clubs took place look at the fever to get good clubs, Niblicks and sets. Wow !! Big bucks to only a few.
To limit the play for a championship to the use of original clubs is short sighted to the growth of the game.
To insist or suggest that only top players should strive to play originals is silly. What has been shown in the previous comments is what I have known for years in all golf. It's the Indian and not his arrows. Your best players can play well with almost any club. John Sherwood was a very good friend. John could beat almost anyone using 4-5 clubs and his non flanged Gibson Danga wood shafted 8 iron with the grip falling off was deadly.
Sandy Lyle has original clubs and had one in his bag. The gent from Switzerland has some reproductions.
I think the young players that scored well at the WHO wished they had had a few better clubs but I guess they were using loaned clubs. If they play next year I will be interested what they use?
Let's enjoy the game of hickory golf. Those that desire to use originals please do. Those that pick reproductions fine and if you have a mixed bag that's ok as well. If someone wants to add originals into their bag they will. I hope the original players will give advice to those looking for playables.
See those of you that are going at Mid Pines

#813 dbuck47

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 02:54 PM

Does anyone know anything at all about these? The grips are shot, but the shafts are all tight and the heads in decent shape. Looks to be 5 clubs including a mashie and a mid-iron. I haven't "bit the bullet" yet.

hickory 1.jpg hickory 1.jpg hickory 2.jpg hickory 3.jpg hickory 4.jpg hickory 5.jpg hickory 5.jpg

#814 Kirasdad

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 12:02 AM

Hard to tell from these pics, but the top two look like what are known as "commons" doesn't mean they aren't playable it just means they are, well...common. American made, late twenties, early 30's by the bushel. A far cry from a UK made Gibson or Stewart, but if it's the right price and it works, who cares. The bottom pictured club, a mashie niblick I am guessing  could be a Macgregor, hard to tell, but that circle looks Macgregorish.
Set For Some Seasons/hickory version
Jackson brassie/Starr spoon
Spalding 2 iron/ Forgan mid iron
Champion mashie/Alex Ross mashie nib.
Bonnie B lofted niblick/Spalding jigger
Brass flanged no name putter

#815 oldschoolrocker

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 07:32 AM

The last pic is of a Macgregor.  I only know because the gentleman I contacted on Craig's List last week returned home yesterday, so last evening I made the trip and purchased 6 clubs for the princely sum of $10.00 each.  5 hickorys and one very early steel wooden driver that looks like it likely had been hickory shafted orginally.
The irons, a 2, a mashie, a mashie-niblick, and one I can't make out (small head, long shaft, some loft), and a putter.  The shafts are straight, heads tight, grips in good condition and all endcaps in place.  The heads were well rusted, but I believe at least the mashie, mashie-niblick and putter will allow me to test the waters.  I am sure they are commons, Macgregor go sums, but they look like spun gold to me.  And wonders never cease a ranger at the local muni contacted me that he has some hickorys stashed away and when I return home I will check those out and contact the gentleman Bella so graciously put me in contact with.


#816 majic

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:18 AM

Go get a bottle of LEXOL at your local auto parts store or Walmart.  Spray the grips well and clean them with the LEXOL.  After getting them clean spray a little more on and wipe easy and let the clubs sit overnight.  This process will bring the grips back to life as much as possible.  Twist the head holding the grip to check for non obvious cracks.  Tap and floor and you should not hear a rattle.
The wood club if steel was steel.  It would not have been hickory bthen steel.  Shafts are to different in diameter.
Good luck.  Let us hear

#817 oldschoolrocker

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:20 AM

Cell phone pics of the booty.

Attached Thumbnails

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#818 oldschoolrocker

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:24 AM

Thanks Tad.  You're a lifesaver.  I couldn't remember what you said to use.  The heads are very tight.  One question, what to use on the shafts?  I cleaned them with Murphys oil.
Randy

#819 MoaningM

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:30 AM

Have moved onto the next stage of drilling, pinning, filing and finally whipping, lots ing's in amongst the frustration were another few choice ones ;)

But I do have now an object that resembles a golf club:-

Posted Image

Posted Image


Posted Image

Posted Image

And my first ever attempt at whipping a grip!

Posted Image

Posted Image

Not the finest attempt known to man, and quite fiddledy on a grip, but a starter for 10! :)

Cheers Tad for the idea of the 1/8th aluminium pin, worked a treat.

Sorry peeps but I have another question.......or maybe two! I've sanded down the shaft around the hozzle, now I've read that linseed oil rubbed in 4 or 5 times is good for the shaft, and i have also read it's a waste of time, could anyone point me in the right direction?

Finally do you then coat the shaft in varnish over the top of the linseed oil? And do i need to strip all of the shaft for this?

Sorry i think that might be 3 or 4 questions!

:)

#820 Bella Woods

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 11:49 AM

If you do use linseed oil it has to be boiled linseed oil or it
won't dry.

I would use one or the other, not both. Actually I would use the varnish
and forget about the linseed oil (some people maintain it softens the shaft flex)


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#821 Bella Woods

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 12:38 PM

MoaningM

You can file the hosel pins flush with the hosel with a fine file. Any little scratches and most of the
hammer dents left after filing can be taken out with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and WD-40 oil. It will
be a little newer looking where you sand (if you don't do the whole club) but will patina up again relatively soon.

Its ok to get a little of the hosel when filing the pins - but just a little. It does not take much filing on the aluminum
pins to blend them in.

#822 MoaningM

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 12:46 PM

Thanks bella i did file it down somewhat, but didnt want to get to close to the hosel. Ill give the sandpaper and oil ago next.

Does it matter what type of varnish you use? Should i strip the rest of the shaft and do all of it or just the area i sanded?

Cheers again.

#823 Bella Woods

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 01:28 PM

Everybody is different but I normally strip the finish off the shaft, sand lightly
and re-stain the shaft (with my favorite stain color - Armour Mahogany). Then spray
with shellac - varnish is just as good though.

After sandpaper & oil, I usually steel wool it with oil too (000 or so steel wool) wipe it clean with cloth
rag & then wipe it with a cloth with oil on it and let it dry/"soak in"

Any good varnish finish will do. But shellac dries in 5 minutes and looks just as nice with a couple
of coats.

Edited by Bella Woods, 25 October 2014 - 01:31 PM.


#824 gvogel

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 07:34 PM

View Posthollabachgt, on 24 October 2014 - 07:31 AM, said:

View PostAussie_steeler, on 24 October 2014 - 02:41 AM, said:

What is this torque that you are speaking of??

Attachment 20130926_103834.jpg

Louisville Golf Jeanie Deans Replica (

Aussie golfer teeing it up on the Balcomie Golf Course in Scotland

I will take credit for snapping this shot (would you believe on a Samsung Tablet)

That image is not truthful and is a byproduct of the rolling shutter effect common with digital cameras, especially cell phones and tablets.

This may give you a better idea of what the club is doing through impact

Must have been a heel hit.

Bet the club would have rotated open if the ball had been hit on the toe.
On Sundays, I play hickory

#825 gvogel

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 07:54 PM

View Postbajadulce, on 23 October 2014 - 11:36 AM, said:


View Posthollabachgt, on 20 October 2014 - 12:54 PM, said:

If the game is to attract younger and more competitive players reproductions are going to be their way into the game.
This line though is disturbing and I don't see why this has to be so. Yes, clubs will get harder to find, more expensive, and some won't have the time, money, nor energy to put into acquiring clubs.  I just would hope that reproductions in the future continue to be the exception rather than the norm.  The current fashion of high profile super elite players and our heros playing with complete set of repros though isn't helping the cause.


History teaches us a lesson here.  In the 1840's, the game was played by about 500 players (quoting Tom Morris of St Andrews, Colossus of Golf) in a few places on the eastern side of Scotland.  Sometime in the late 1840's or early 1850's the Reverend James Patterson took some gutta percha material that was used as packing material for an Indian statue sent to his father, and fashioned a golf ball.  Soon thereafter, Allan Robertson discovered his employee Tom Morris playing with the new ball, an argument ensued, and the next thing you know, Morris moves over to Prestwick and lays out a course over on the west side of Scotland.

Point?  The feathery was a very expensive ball.  A good craftsman could only make 4 or 5 in a day.  The cost of a feathery was a limiting factor for the development of the game.  When the gutty was introduced, it flew no farther than a feathery.  But, it stayed round longer, was not so much influenced by the wind, and it could be played in the rain without breaking apart - no small factor in Scotland.  

The introduction of the gutty made golf much more accessible to many more players, because it was relatively inexpensive to make, and it was readily available in good quality.  I look at reproductions in the same light, particularly woods.  They are readily available in good quality, and enable a lot of us to get into the game of hickory without buying really good quality Stewart, Nicol or Gibson clubs.

On Sundays, I play hickory

#826 majic

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:49 PM

Finish ---  I feel the best finish is
1) MinWax stain. There is also a sherwin Williams stain that is a "wipe" and I think maybe alcohol base. Dries fast.
2) Min Wax Helmsman poly is an exterior finish. Two coats will do. A light sand with fine scotchbrite foam pad before and in between coats. You will be good to go.

#827 majic

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Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:51 PM

By the way MacGregor shafts I have found to be excellent. I always bought extras. Heads damaged but good shaft get for shaft.




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