Edited by MoaningM, 24 October 2014 - 09:09 AM.
Playing Hickory Golf
Posted 24 October 2014 - 09:23 AM
In 1990 We all played original clubs. We all attended many golf shows during a year. 5 or 6. Back then there were many places clubs could be found. Not EBay . John Sherwood was alive and bringing hundreds of playable clubs over here several times a year. When he arrived Ralph Livingston got first pick of Stewarts, next Randy or sometimes Randy first.
Nicoll clubs were Roger Hill to go over. I got the pick of Gibson. I also scoured the trade rooms and people new I wanted flanged MacGregor. Ultimately Chris McIntyre, Chuck McMullin and a few others knew John had the playable clubs.
It took me years to put together a good set of Gibson and a good set of MacGregor irons. Same with woods.
This was an expensive proposition. I wanted the best clubs and committed to finding them. I was a very good stick. Could shoot par or better with hickory.
My point I am making is that there are few good sets or even clubs out in the market today. Not like in the "old" days. Certainly not woods.
As the hickory game grew with more people getting interested the growth of reproductions being used has increased.
My Four Ball, Mid Pines and a few others created interest in fun and enjoyable play. Some took it very serious and others not so much. Some people by their nature want to use antique or original heads. They will not even use retro fit woods or new shafts. I think this is great. Go for it. I recently added two clubs to my original set and I think it is now pretty good. Players who love using the original clubs typically have a very strong opinion about that. A lot of them started playing when good clubs were more available. These people try to influence people and are short sighted about the game. I place people that like to only use the reproduction ball in this category. It's cool. Use it if you want. It was created by Chris so he could make more money from his rental business and be different then other club rental businesses.
When the sale of Ralph's clubs took place look at the fever to get good clubs, Niblicks and sets. Wow !! Big bucks to only a few.
To limit the play for a championship to the use of original clubs is short sighted to the growth of the game.
To insist or suggest that only top players should strive to play originals is silly. What has been shown in the previous comments is what I have known for years in all golf. It's the Indian and not his arrows. Your best players can play well with almost any club. John Sherwood was a very good friend. John could beat almost anyone using 4-5 clubs and his non flanged Gibson Danga wood shafted 8 iron with the grip falling off was deadly.
Sandy Lyle has original clubs and had one in his bag. The gent from Switzerland has some reproductions.
I think the young players that scored well at the WHO wished they had had a few better clubs but I guess they were using loaned clubs. If they play next year I will be interested what they use?
Let's enjoy the game of hickory golf. Those that desire to use originals please do. Those that pick reproductions fine and if you have a mixed bag that's ok as well. If someone wants to add originals into their bag they will. I hope the original players will give advice to those looking for playables.
See those of you that are going at Mid Pines
Posted 24 October 2014 - 02:54 PM
Posted 25 October 2014 - 12:02 AM
Jackson brassie/Starr spoon
Spalding 2 iron/ Forgan mid iron
Champion mashie/Alex Ross mashie nib.
Bonnie B lofted niblick/Spalding jigger
Brass flanged no name putter
Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:18 AM
The wood club if steel was steel. It would not have been hickory bthen steel. Shafts are to different in diameter.
Good luck. Let us hear
Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:24 AM
Posted 25 October 2014 - 10:30 AM
But I do have now an object that resembles a golf club:-
And my first ever attempt at whipping a grip!
Not the finest attempt known to man, and quite fiddledy on a grip, but a starter for 10!
Cheers Tad for the idea of the 1/8th aluminium pin, worked a treat.
Sorry peeps but I have another question.......or maybe two! I've sanded down the shaft around the hozzle, now I've read that linseed oil rubbed in 4 or 5 times is good for the shaft, and i have also read it's a waste of time, could anyone point me in the right direction?
Finally do you then coat the shaft in varnish over the top of the linseed oil? And do i need to strip all of the shaft for this?
Sorry i think that might be 3 or 4 questions!
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Posted 25 October 2014 - 12:38 PM
You can file the hosel pins flush with the hosel with a fine file. Any little scratches and most of the
hammer dents left after filing can be taken out with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and WD-40 oil. It will
be a little newer looking where you sand (if you don't do the whole club) but will patina up again relatively soon.
Its ok to get a little of the hosel when filing the pins - but just a little. It does not take much filing on the aluminum
pins to blend them in.
Posted 25 October 2014 - 12:46 PM
Does it matter what type of varnish you use? Should i strip the rest of the shaft and do all of it or just the area i sanded?
Posted 25 October 2014 - 01:28 PM
and re-stain the shaft (with my favorite stain color - Armour Mahogany). Then spray
with shellac - varnish is just as good though.
After sandpaper & oil, I usually steel wool it with oil too (000 or so steel wool) wipe it clean with cloth
rag & then wipe it with a cloth with oil on it and let it dry/"soak in"
Any good varnish finish will do. But shellac dries in 5 minutes and looks just as nice with a couple
Edited by Bella Woods, 25 October 2014 - 01:31 PM.
Posted 25 October 2014 - 07:34 PM
Louisville Golf Jeanie Deans Replica (
Aussie golfer teeing it up on the Balcomie Golf Course in Scotland
I will take credit for snapping this shot (would you believe on a Samsung Tablet)
That image is not truthful and is a byproduct of the rolling shutter effect common with digital cameras, especially cell phones and tablets.
This may give you a better idea of what the club is doing through impact
Must have been a heel hit.
Bet the club would have rotated open if the ball had been hit on the toe.
Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:49 PM
1) MinWax stain. There is also a sherwin Williams stain that is a "wipe" and I think maybe alcohol base. Dries fast.
2) Min Wax Helmsman poly is an exterior finish. Two coats will do. A light sand with fine scotchbrite foam pad before and in between coats. You will be good to go.
Posted 25 October 2014 - 08:51 PM
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