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anyone go to bigger grips and get rid of a draw/hook?


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#1 magicmatt

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 04:58 PM

so i just learned about what the different size grips do,  i always thought it was a comfort thing. my miss is a draw/hook and i think i might try out some new grips. anyone have success with changing? measured my hand (left hand if right handed right?) and its just over 8 inches which is on the line of +1/32 and +1/16. been struggling with this miss for a while so i'll probably go to the +1/16


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#2 ForeRL

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 05:10 PM

Bubba Watson builds up his driver's grip to favor a cut

When I had the slices, I put a smaller grip on and it worked.

#3 FLOGMR

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 05:56 PM

Check your lie angles first....that is more likely to have a beneficial affect....if they are a bit upright have them flattened a couple of degrees......you really want your grip size to fit your hand not your ball flight.

Edited by RM Golf, 28 June 2011 - 05:56 PM.


#4 magicmatt

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:04 PM

View PostForeRL, on 28 June 2011 - 05:10 PM, said:

Bubba Watson builds up his driver's grip to favor a cut

When I had the slices, I put a smaller grip on and it worked.
interesting


View PostRM Golf, on 28 June 2011 - 05:56 PM, said:

Check your lie angles first....that is more likely to have a beneficial affect....if they are a bit upright have them flattened a couple of degrees......you really want your grip size to fit your hand not your ball flight.
already had them bent 1* flat, seemed to help a little. probably should have them bent 1 more degree

#5 dbloom136

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:07 PM

i just went from standard to midsize and i love the feel so much better. Like you said more than comfort i feel like my grip is much more natural now.


#6 pinhigh27

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:18 PM

I'd say you are building your grips up to favor a push, and the 15 percent or whatever that club face is responsible would make it fade a little. Same thing for smaller ones. The face will be closed easier a little bit, so you will have more pulls, and that slightly extra closed will make it draw a little.
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#7 EnglishBob

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:29 PM

No, I have done the opposite, went from a larger padded grip on the driver to a smaller, thinner grip to help fight a slice, that combined with a grip change met with great success.

#8 itswilson

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 08:05 PM

Grip size shouldn't affect your ball flight.  If you are hooking/drawing its got more to do with the lie angle, shaft flex, grip placement, and/or swing.  I recently went from standard grips to midsize grips on all of my clubs. For reference, my top hand measures 8 1/4.  It has not changed my ball flight at all.  The only thing gained was the strength and consistency of my grip.  I now have more control over my club than before (and less pain in my fingers after my round).  I no longer have to squeeze the club, I just hold it naturally. Changing a grip size to fix ball flight is just a band aid for a bigger problem imo.

Check out this video of Shawn Clement addressing this issue.  Fast Forward to 7:00 to get to the part you are questioning. Please watch as it answers your exact question!





Now if you are hooking, that is a different issue.  Its really impossible to tell why without seeing your game.  If its only with your irons/wedges (clubs that take a divot) it could be your lie angle.  If its too upright, the heel digs in the ground causing the face to close at impact.  At one point, I had a tendecy to hit a fade because my irons were too flat. The toe would dig and face would open.  I had my clubs bent upright 2 degrees and now its fixed.  You can use an impact board (or tape and any mat) to see where your club connects with the ground.  You can tell if it is too far on the heel. Search for more threads about that.  

If its not that, I would start a new thread in the "Instruction & Academy" part of the forum.  Or do some searching on shaft flexes & swing speed or strong vs weak grips.

Hope this helps, good luck.

Edited by itswilson, 19 July 2011 - 05:05 PM.


#9 bdigital22

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 11:09 PM

I've re-gripped my old irons with midsize grips and definitely preferred the feel of larger grip.  I was still able to manipulate the clubhead to hit straight, cut, or draw.  At times when I choked down close to the steel, I noticed I would release the club early and most times pull or pull hook if I took an agressive swing.  To that point, I believe when I choked down the swingweight was too light leading to early release.   So another way you might combat a hook is to check and increase swingweight.   I prefer at least D3-5

#10 tbowles411

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 11:16 PM

One of the things I learned getting fit for my R11 is that I wasn't releasing the club well because my grips were too small.  I would start with a light grip, but by the time I was done swinging, not only did I not release the driver, I had a deathgrip on it.  Once I went to a midsize, all that disappeared.  So there is something to it.


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#11 SnapHooky

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 11:18 PM

I put an oversized grip on my driver to fight the occasional hooks I get.  It did not eliminate my hooks, but it did lessen how drastic they are when they show up.  My problem is I get too quick with the hands, and the thicker grip slows my wrist roll over a little bit.  

Based on my experience I'd say it may help a bit to counter hooks, but won't get rid of them.

#12 magicmatt

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 08:33 AM

 SnapHooky, on 28 June 2011 - 11:18 PM, said:

I put an oversized grip on my driver to fight the occasional hooks I get.  It did not eliminate my hooks, but it did lessen how drastic they are when they show up.  My problem is I get too quick with the hands, and the thicker grip slows my wrist roll over a little bit.  

Based on my experience I'd say it may help a bit to counter hooks, but won't get rid of them.

what size did you get? with that logic you should try an even bigger size

#13 itswilson

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 04:32 PM

Quote

so i just learned about what the different size grips do, i always thought it was a comfort thing


It is a comfort thing.

A larger grip to push it right or a smaller grip to bring it left is OLD Theory.  The world isn't flat.


Quote

One of the things I learned getting fit for my R11 is that I wasn't releasing the club well because my grips were too small. I would start with a light grip, but by the time I was done swinging, not only did I not release the driver, I had a deathgrip on it. Once I went to a midsize, all that disappeared. So there is something to it.
so a midsize grip just fit better in your hand.  a "deathgrip" tenses up your body, throws you of balance, leading to inconsistent swing.  This used to be my problem and that is the reason I switched. Did you hook all your misses? or were those misses just variably inconsistent?

Edited by itswilson, 29 June 2011 - 04:34 PM.


#14 acquadiice

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 04:59 PM

im trying 4 layers of tape to avoid the lefts

#15 FAIRWAYFOUND!

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 05:37 PM

It also helps to put extra wraps under your lower hand/bottom of the grip as that's usually the hand that closes the face. Effectively getting rid of the taper. Something else Bubba does.


#16 JC13

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 09:29 PM

You can also try Lamkin's NDur 3Gen grip.They are the equivalent of Bubba's extra tape under the bottom hand.......... without having to mess around with trying out different numbers of extra layers of tape. The NDur grips are made with less taper and definitely help reduce my tendency to flip the club at impact. I can still hit it left when my body stops moving and i flip the hands but it's much less pronounced - and best of all still in play ;)

#17 acquadiice

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 08:24 AM

@itswilson - wouldnt the grip affect those things via grip pressure, i know when i tried a smaller grip, i couldnt help but grip the hell out of it because imagine a big hand trying to grasp a small object lightly?  its very hard to keep constant light pressure that way and now imagine the same big hand trying to grasp a large object... its very easy to manipulate the amount of pressure you put on the object because there is more "real estate" if you will... thats my logic in that

#18 blade_man

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 08:33 AM

Go to the lamkin website and look at their fitting chart, print it out and it will give you a starting point.
http://www.lamkingri...d_Your_Grip.php

#19 mikeyun1992

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 09:05 AM

For me, using thicker (3 tapes or mid-sized grips) on my driver helps me to avoid left side (right handed). And, soft'ed my wrist/grip.



#20 lukesmurf59

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 03:22 PM

I play midsize on my wedges to help keep the face open, it works.

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#21 Howard Jones

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 04:00 PM

 itswilson, on 28 June 2011 - 08:05 PM, said:

Grip size shouldn't affect your ball flight.  If you are hooking/drawing its got more to do with the lie angle, shaft flex, grip placement, and/or swing.  I recently went from standard grips to midsize grips on all of my clubs. For reference, my top hand measures 8 1/4.  It has not changed my ball flight at all.  The only thing gained was the strength and consistency of my grip.  I now have more control over my club than before (and less pain in my fingers after my round).  I no longer have to squeeze the club, I just hold it naturally. Changing a grip size to fix ball flight is just a band aid for a bigger problem imo.

Check out this video of Shawn Clement addressing this issue.  Fast Forward to 7:00 to get to the part you are questioning. Please watch as it answers your exact question!





Now if you are hooking, that is a different issue.  Its really impossible to tell why without seeing your game.  If its only with your irons/wedges (clubs that take a divot) it could be your lie angle.  If its too upright, the heel digs in the ground causing the face to close at impact.  At one point, I had a tendecy to hit a fade because my irons were too flat. The toe would dig and face would open.  I had my clubs bent upright 2 degrees and now its fixed.  You can use an impact board (or tape and any mat) to see where your club connects with the ground.  You can tell if it is too far on the heel. Search for more threads about that.  

If its not that, I would start a new thread in the "Instruction & Academy" part of the forum.  Or do some searching on shaft flexes & swing speed or strong vs weak grips.

Hope this helps, good luck.

...........it could  be your lie angle.  If its too upright, the heel digs in the ground  causing the face to close at impact.

This statement is all wrong, it is NOT because the heel got stuck, or the toe for that matter. If lie angle is to upright the face is pointing to the left, and if its to flat it points to the right.
A pure hit means ball contact before turf contact, and the ball will be on its way, before any turf can change direction of the face and the ball. Its all because the face is pointing of target line, if line angle is wrong. Follow this link, and click on IRON in the middle of the screen
http://www.titleist....f-club-fitting/

To the OP, you don't change line angle to fix a swing problem (it sounds like you do, when you say you have the bent 1* but should have gone 2*)
Take them on a line board. Its all about the leading edge being flat against the ground at impact,(only then the face is pointing to target line) and that can only be tested on a lie bord.  

If contact is 1/4 out against the toe, they should be 1* more upright
if contact is 1/2 out agaist the toe, they should be 2* more upright
if contact is 1/4 in against the heel, they should be 1* flat
if contact is 1/2 in against the heel, they should be 2* flat

All changes from what ever they are now. (never mind stock specs, this test will tell you how much to change them from where they are now, and thats the way to do it)

#22 Howard Jones

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 04:06 PM

 itswilson, on 28 June 2011 - 08:05 PM, said:

Grip size shouldn't affect your ball flight.  If you are hooking/drawing its got more to do with the lie angle, shaft flex, grip placement, and/or swing.  I recently went from standard grips to midsize grips on all of my clubs. For reference, my top hand measures 8 1/4.  It has not changed my ball flight at all.  The only thing gained was the strength and consistency of my grip.  I now have more control over my club than before (and less pain in my fingers after my round).  I no longer have to squeeze the club, I just hold it naturally. Changing a grip size to fix ball flight is just a band aid for a bigger problem imo.

Check out this video of Shawn Clement addressing this issue.  Fast Forward to 7:00 to get to the part you are questioning. Please watch as it answers your exact question!





Now if you are hooking, that is a different issue.  Its really impossible to tell why without seeing your game.  If its only with your irons/wedges (clubs that take a divot) it could be your lie angle.  If its too upright, the heel digs in the ground causing the face to close at impact.  At one point, I had a tendecy to hit a fade because my irons were too flat. The toe would dig and face would open.  I had my clubs bent upright 2 degrees and now its fixed.  You can use an impact board (or tape and any mat) to see where your club connects with the ground.  You can tell if it is too far on the heel. Search for more threads about that.  

If its not that, I would start a new thread in the "Instruction & Academy" part of the forum.  Or do some searching on shaft flexes & swing speed or strong vs weak grips.

Hope this helps, good luck.

...........it could  be your lie angle.  If its too upright, the heel digs in the ground  causing the face to close at impact.

This statement is all wrong, it is NOT because the heel got stuck, or the toe for that matter. If lie angle is to upright the face is pointing to the left, and if its to flat it points to the right.
A pure hit means ball contact before turf contact, and the ball will be on its way, before any turf can change direction of the face and the ball. Its all because the face is pointing of target line, if line angle is wrong. Follow this link, and click on IRON in the middle of the screen
http://www.titleist....f-club-fitting/


To the OP, you don't change line angle to fix a swing problem (it sounds like you do, when you say you have the bent 1* but should have gone 2*)
Take them on a line board. Its all about the leading edge being flat against the ground at impact,(only then the face is pointing to target line) and that can only be tested on a lie bord.  

If contact is 1/4 out against the toe, they should be 1* more upright
if contact is 1/2 out agaist the toe, they should be 2* more upright
if contact is 1/4 in against the heel, they should be 1* flat
if contact is 1/2 in against the heel, they should be 2* flat

All changes from what ever they are now. (never mind stock specs, this test will tell you how much to change them from where they are now, and thats the way to do it)




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