
Swing weight factors in relation to parts
#61
Posted 03 April 2012 - 12:10 AM

#62
Posted 03 April 2012 - 04:05 PM
I'm interested in the Titleist 712 AP1's. The standard swing weight per their website for these irons is a D2 with the standard Dynalight XP shafts. If I had the KBS Tour 90's (off menu) installed, do you know what the swing weight would be given everything else stayed the same?
Thx
#63
Posted 05 April 2012 - 08:19 AM
I read that 0.5" is 3 SW points. Is this true for all shaft weights?
I would like to cut my R11S shaft (60 grams) down 1"
Thanks
#64
Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:00 AM
Ed T
#65
Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:34 PM

#66
Posted 24 May 2012 - 11:53 PM
#67
Posted 25 June 2012 - 09:04 PM
#68
Posted 28 June 2012 - 03:34 AM
Doc Watson, on 25 June 2012 - 09:04 PM, said:
yea im 19 and have no damn clue what any of this stuff means
#69
Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:33 AM
#70
Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:56 PM

#71
Posted 05 July 2012 - 09:03 PM
Is lead tape to the head the best thing to increase the SW to D4? If so, how many gr? Also, will this change the flex of the shaft? Swing Speed 122 so i dont want to soften the flex. Thanks for the advice!
#72
Posted 20 July 2012 - 08:35 PM
#73
Posted 23 July 2012 - 05:22 PM
Thanks!
#74
Posted 23 July 2012 - 05:27 PM
#75
Posted 23 July 2012 - 05:32 PM

#76
Posted 23 July 2012 - 06:55 PM
I had the guy at the local Golfers Warehouse shorten the shaft on one of my Fuji Motore F1 shafts. He cut 1" from the butt end of the shaft effectively reducing the length of my driver from 45" to 44" (I have another F1 shaft in reserve at 45" in case my experiment fails). The driver head is a Taylor R9 Super Tri. Obviously, the swing weight of the club has been altered when this shaft is inserted. The guy told me to put a couple of strips of lead tape on the head. That seems rather arbitrary to me. What should I do?
Thanks for any help.
#77
Posted 26 July 2012 - 12:15 PM
dettmeja, on 05 July 2012 - 09:03 PM, said:
Is lead tape to the head the best thing to increase the SW to D4? If so, how many gr? Also, will this change the flex of the shaft? Swing Speed 122 so i dont want to soften the flex. Thanks for the advice!
Tipping by the tip section is the right way to tip if you dont want to soften the flex.
Ping use a weight plug inside the hosel that is a PITA to take out before we can hot melt, but nothing is impossible to me in my book
Email me if you need my service, IMO this modification is not simple if you wanna do it right.
Joe
#78
Posted 26 July 2012 - 12:19 PM
Moonlightgrm, on 23 July 2012 - 06:55 PM, said:
I had the guy at the local Golfers Warehouse shorten the shaft on one of my Fuji Motore F1 shafts. He cut 1" from the butt end of the shaft effectively reducing the length of my driver from 45" to 44" (I have another F1 shaft in reserve at 45" in case my experiment fails). The driver head is a Taylor R9 Super Tri. Obviously, the swing weight of the club has been altered when this shaft is inserted. The guy told me to put a couple of strips of lead tape on the head. That seems rather arbitrary to me. What should I do?
Thanks for any help.
The most common mistake form people cutting down the shaft improperly. Some factors need to be reconsider first before cutting it down.
Joe
#79
Posted 01 August 2012 - 09:54 PM
Quote
- 1/2" = 3 swing weight points
- 2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point
- 5 gr grip = 1 swing weight point
- 9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point
- 4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point
Hi,
If I cut 1/2" on tip and 1/2" on butt, does Swing Weight equals out?
I know it will be stiffen up but Just curious about Swing Weight if I do that.
Currently messing with hybrid shaft (graphite).
Thanks you in advance.
************
Duh... Never mind. It should take 6 swing weight point out. Correct me if I'm wrong. (Maybe too late.. I just took out 1/2" each end).
Edited by piusthedrgolf, 01 August 2012 - 10:39 PM.
#80
Posted 02 August 2012 - 04:10 AM

#81
Posted 12 August 2012 - 03:17 PM
Can't I just trim tip and butt of wood shaft to make desired length for hybrid and use it? or for Hybrid, do I need hybrid specific shaft? I know most of hybrid shafts are heavier than woods but what if I have heavier +80g shaft for wood.
#82
Posted 13 August 2012 - 03:53 PM
http://www.callawayg...iver/specs.html
http://www.callawayg...iver/specs.html
#83
Posted 15 August 2012 - 12:55 PM
I have an Odyssey Dart that was factory 33" with 350g weight insert. I liked the feel.
I just had it shortened an inch to 32". Would I now need to put the 360 g weight to get it back close to the original swingweight feel?
FWs: TEE Trilogy 4w/7w
Hybrids: TEE Trilogy 4h/5h
Irons: Ping G25 6i-LW
Utility: Cleveland Niblick 56*
Putter: Odyssey D.A.R.T.
#84
Posted 16 August 2012 - 10:18 AM
#85
Posted 20 August 2012 - 12:53 PM

#86
Posted 27 August 2012 - 02:50 PM
#87
Posted 26 September 2012 - 09:09 AM
Picked up a set of Mizuno MP-32's as backup for my '88 Hogan redline Apexes, which have Apex 4 shafts, and are still in good condition after not playing for 15 yrs....
The Mizuno's have noticably lower ball flight which I like...about same distance-wise...but the heads feel "deader" than my older Hogans...solid when I hit them but kind of "hollow feeling" on impact...the clubfitter at the range checked them....they are shorter, shaft-wise, by about 3/4" per club and on the cycle-measurement machine they are noticably stiffer...about 337 for the 6-iron if I remember--his assessment was "Gee, these are short...you're probably not loading the club...they should have similar "soft" feel to your Hogans...the forging is every bit as good, if not better"....what to do?, his advice was to "soft-step"--i.e. pull the shafts from 3-iron and put into the 4-iron, etc. all the way through the set....he noted that labor, etc. would put this at about $120 for the 6 irons...and perhaps would be better to re-sell the iron set, and look for another...might end up in same place with less dollar outlay...another choice was to lead wt. the heads a fair bit...maybe 5 to 6 lead strips to increase swing wt. from c10 where they are now to the d2/d3 range of my Hogans.
Question---wouldn't a 1/2" to 3/4" shaft extender "soften up" this shaft....I read, though, in one of these posts that this rule of thumb (longer shaft=more dynamic flex) does NOT apply with a "butt-stiff" design like the Project X rifle... I have re-gripped clubs...and taking off the old grips, screwing in and epoxy-ing, a shaft extender, and cutting them to proper length with hacksaw--or pipe cutter, and re-gripping them does not sound like a big deal... I'd like to lengthen them anyway if I'm to keep them, and if I can soften them, and get away with less lead tape that sounds like a better result than loading up the shorter shaft with a load of tape.
Any advice/recommendations would be much appreciated....
#88
Posted 18 October 2012 - 12:24 PM
#89
Posted 26 October 2012 - 12:02 PM
#90
Posted 27 October 2012 - 01:45 PM













