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Swing weight factors in relation to parts


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#391 Full Melt

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 09:24 AM

I'm still learning all this stuff, so I apologize for any dumb questions haha

According the OP, 1/2" off the club is 3 sw points? I hacked 1/2" off my 3-wood yesterday and the part I cut off only weighed 1.15 grams. Can somebody explainlikeim5 why this is 3 sw points? Or am I just missing something?

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#392 Stuart G.

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 09:38 AM

View PostFull Melt, on 08 May 2017 - 09:24 AM, said:

I'm still learning all this stuff, so I apologize for any dumb questions haha

According the OP, 1/2" off the club is 3 sw points? I hacked 1/2" off my 3-wood yesterday and the part I cut off only weighed 1.15 grams. Can somebody explainlikeim5 why this is 3 sw points? Or am I just missing something?

Swing weight and static weight are very different things.    The reduction in SW is purely from the length reduction and the fact that the head weight moves 1/2" closer to the swing weight fulcrum or balance point so has a smaller moment arm.

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#393 Full Melt

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 03:42 PM

View PostStuart G., on 08 May 2017 - 09:38 AM, said:

View PostFull Melt, on 08 May 2017 - 09:24 AM, said:

I'm still learning all this stuff, so I apologize for any dumb questions haha

According the OP, 1/2" off the club is 3 sw points? I hacked 1/2" off my 3-wood yesterday and the part I cut off only weighed 1.15 grams. Can somebody explainlikeim5 why this is 3 sw points? Or am I just missing something?

Swing weight and static weight are very different things. The reduction in SW is purely from the length reduction and the fact that the head weight moves 1/2" closer to the swing weight fulcrum or balance point so has a smaller moment arm.

Ah, I see. Makes sense. Thanks
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#394 panther73

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Posted 12 May 2017 - 04:32 PM

View PostCallTaylor, on 31 January 2017 - 05:57 AM, said:

View PostMatt J, on 16 December 2016 - 01:04 PM, said:

View PostStuart G., on 16 December 2016 - 04:34 AM, said:

View PostMatt J, on 14 December 2016 - 02:26 PM, said:

Why are manufacturers making driver heads so heavy?

I just bought a swingweight scale and am trying to add consistency through the bag by getting my clubs reasonably close to each other and ascending in weight from driver through wedge.

Even with relatively light shafts and short lengths it's hard to get my driver down below D3 or D4.  I measured the static weight and it's around 200 grams which seems to be about average for driver heads.  Seems much more reasonable to put weight ports and the option for a very light (as light as possible) cover for the port and then ascending weight in 5 gram increments.  But, realistically if you're going to run a shaft over 60 grams it seems there's no way to get under D5 or D6 without counterweighting.

I love the ball flight of my hybrids, but I achieve that through heavy shafts.   As a result they have very high swingweight.  If I gain a point or two through the bag my irons and wedges would have to be in the E range.  Seems ridiculous.

You said it yourself, your head weight is around 200 gm which is completely normal and has been for a while.   The problem isn't that the driver head weight is high, the problem in keeping the SW down is that the lengths have been getting longer and longer.   Instead of going lighter with the head, you are much better off going shorter with the playing length - especially if better consistency is your goal.

Actually I'm very consistent and like the extra distance of the longer shaft, just don't want a driver at E swingweight.

Just seems like it would be pretty easy to put options for adding weight and a lot easier than removing it.

I've got a few projects I'm going to play with to try and get my woods reasonably well matched, just defies logic that woods are playing heavier than wedges these days.
So Matt, what don't you like about counter weighting in a driver? There's a few shafts out currently that do help with swingweight. The hzrdus yellow or Kiyoshi HB come to mind. I also have a black reign prototype that has a bit of backweighting.
  Also, I agree with you on the driver length. I'm so tired of seeing good shafts that I would purchase show up here for sale only to read that they are glorified 3 wood shafts. Lol. Why give up distance by cutting the shaft down? Just work on your swing and groove it with a longer shaft :) or....here's a lovely thought....why don't you guys who like a 44 or 44.5 inch long driver take a 45.5 inch driver and grip down an inch? Then you don't have to cut the shaft down and someone like me could buy it when you want to sell it. Hahahahaha
  
I feel the same way in regards to shaft length, my max length is 45 inches, but usually grip down a inch, inch and a half for 90% of driver tee shots, 100% of drivers off the deck. Swing weight D-8 or so, minus 6 points for 1 inch grip down, minus 1 point for grip cap "counterweight". Loading of the shaft is greatly influenced by the shaft flex with enough head weight to "flex" the shaft. Addressing the 2 wraps under listing, when I re-grip various iron shafts, Butt diameter must be considered, and for those shafts that have 1 or 2 steps under the grip, additional wraps over each step down to make the grip area consistent to make the grip stretch the exact amount I prefer.

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#395 markjinc

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 01:48 PM

I need some help from the pros here - I'm looking at changing my grips from 3 wraps of tape and a Pure DTX midsize weighing 60 grams to 2 wraps of tape and a Golfpride MCC Plus 4 Midsize at 66 grams. How much will this effect swingweight and what can I do to counteract the effect if anything? Thanks.


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#396 Stuart G.

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 04:07 AM

View Postmarkjinc, on 16 May 2017 - 01:48 PM, said:

I need some help from the pros here - I'm looking at changing my grips from 3 wraps of tape and a Pure DTX midsize weighing 60 grams to 2 wraps of tape and a Golfpride MCC Plus 4 Midsize at 66 grams. How much will this effect swingweight and what can I do to counteract the effect if anything? Thanks.

Might reduce what the SW scale reads by 1 SW pt - but for the vast majority of golfers grip side changes can (and should) be ignored.   So go ahead and make the change w/o any additional adjustments and test the club out first.

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