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Swing weight factors in relation to parts


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#31 SteveL1

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 11:30 PM

Ok, I'm a bit lost and need some help......Just got a new R11 and installed a Aldila RIP 70 playing at 44.5". With the 10g/1g standard wieghts, it swing weights at D8-D9. I can't shorten the shaft any, and I really need the 10g weight in the toe to keep from hooking this thing so I'm lost as to what to change to get the sw down to around D2-D3 where I like it. I also have a Golf Pride Tour Wrap grip which is on the heavy side at 55g so changing to a heavier grip is not much of an option either.

The R11 tip is a TP variety so it's fairly light at 5.8g compared to the Tour versions at 7.4g so that won't help either. Only thing I can think of is to counter weight it about 30g but would prefer not to do that if possible. Drilling the hosel on an R11 is not an option as far as I know. Any ideas?

Head weight with 10g/1g weights and shaft mounting screw is 203.3g and the shaft with tip adaptor and grip is 133.3g.

Edited by SteveL1, 08 October 2011 - 11:51 PM.


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#32 78blades

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 01:43 AM

Counter weighting is the only thing I can think of too. There are a pelthora of very knowledgable ppl on this site that mite be able to offer other suggestions.

#33 GOLFNOLOGIST

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 09:52 PM

Hi Joe,

My current iron is Miura MC-102 with shimada ks-7001 shaft and masda grip.  7i swing weight is D1 3/4.  I feel that the swing weight is too light for me.  I tried my friend's club which is a miura PP9003 with NSpro Modus 3 shaft and golf pride dd2 grip has a swing weight of D3.  I feel and hit very well with that club.  Question is what changes can I make to my club to achieve the same feel as my friend's club.  Can I simply add weight to my club to get D3 swing weight or need to change the whole shaft.
thanks.

#34 joey3108

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 12:00 AM

View PostSteveL1, on 08 October 2011 - 11:30 PM, said:

Ok, I'm a bit lost and need some help......Just got a new R11 and installed a Aldila RIP 70 playing at 44.5". With the 10g/1g standard wieghts, it swing weights at D8-D9. I can't shorten the shaft any, and I really need the 10g weight in the toe to keep from hooking this thing so I'm lost as to what to change to get the sw down to around D2-D3 where I like it. I also have a Golf Pride Tour Wrap grip which is on the heavy side at 55g so changing to a heavier grip is not much of an option either.

The R11 tip is a TP variety so it's fairly light at 5.8g compared to the Tour versions at 7.4g so that won't help either. Only thing I can think of is to counter weight it about 30g but would prefer not to do that if possible. Drilling the hosel on an R11 is not an option as far as I know. Any ideas?

Head weight with 10g/1g weights and shaft mounting screw is 203.3g and the shaft with tip adaptor and grip is 133.3g.
That head is not suppose to be that heavy in the first place if they are properly build.
if you just got it, why do you bring it back to the store and get a replacement for the right properly build club?

View PostGOLFNOLOGIST, on 11 October 2011 - 09:52 PM, said:

Hi Joe,

My current iron is Miura MC-102 with shimada ks-7001 shaft and masda grip.  7i swing weight is D1 3/4.  I feel that the swing weight is too light for me.  I tried my friend's club which is a miura PP9003 with NSpro Modus 3 shaft and golf pride dd2 grip has a swing weight of D3.  I feel and hit very well with that club.  Question is what changes can I make to my club to achieve the same feel as my friend's club.  Can I simply add weight to my club to get D3 swing weight or need to change the whole shaft.
thanks.
FEEL is subjective, especially from two totally different set up shafts. It may not be because of shaft only or swing weight only...how about lie angle, bounce design, etc. Lots of factors need to be considered.

A good club builder should have no problem building those club to the specs you like. A good builder is not cheap, because they spend time to build them correctly.

Some good one you've heard of, A few better one you know of, keep the best one in your hand!

Those are my motto!

Trust me, they are not equal!

Joe



#35 SteveL1

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 07:15 AM

Quote

That head is not suppose to be that heavy in the first place if they are properly build.
if you just got it, why do you bring it back to the store and get a replacement for the right properly build club?


Well, since I bought the head from a member here on the BST forum, returning to a store is not an option. Is it possible that TM would replace if I sent it back to them fully disclosing that I bought it from a private party? Might be worth a phone call although I'm not holding my hopes very high.:(


#36 joey3108

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 02:28 PM

View PostSteveL1, on 12 October 2011 - 07:15 AM, said:

Quote

That head is not suppose to be that heavy in the first place if they are properly build.
if you just got it, why do you bring it back to the store and get a replacement for the right properly build club?


Well, since I bought the head from a member here on the BST forum, returning to a store is not an option. Is it possible that TM would replace if I sent it back to them fully disclosing that I bought it from a private party? Might be worth a phone call although I'm not holding my hopes very high.:(

I have no idea on that issue!

I never deal with them, so dunno how they would handle it.

#37 GOLFNOLOGIST

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Posted 13 October 2011 - 06:12 PM

Joe, thanks for your reply.  I went to the titleist fitting shop to try the AP2 irons.  Similarly the best feel combination is with the N.S.Pro 105T shaft with lie angle at 2 degrees upright.  Although the 105T shaft is heavier than my current shimada ks7001,  it does not feels light and smooth.  Does this means that I am more suitable to use heavier shaft?


View Postjoey3108, on 12 October 2011 - 12:00 AM, said:

View PostSteveL1, on 08 October 2011 - 11:30 PM, said:

Ok, I'm a bit lost and need some help......Just got a new R11 and installed a Aldila RIP 70 playing at 44.5". With the 10g/1g standard wieghts, it swing weights at D8-D9. I can't shorten the shaft any, and I really need the 10g weight in the toe to keep from hooking this thing so I'm lost as to what to change to get the sw down to around D2-D3 where I like it. I also have a Golf Pride Tour Wrap grip which is on the heavy side at 55g so changing to a heavier grip is not much of an option either.

The R11 tip is a TP variety so it's fairly light at 5.8g compared to the Tour versions at 7.4g so that won't help either. Only thing I can think of is to counter weight it about 30g but would prefer not to do that if possible. Drilling the hosel on an R11 is not an option as far as I know. Any ideas?

Head weight with 10g/1g weights and shaft mounting screw is 203.3g and the shaft with tip adaptor and grip is 133.3g.
That head is not suppose to be that heavy in the first place if they are properly build.
if you just got it, why do you bring it back to the store and get a replacement for the right properly build club?

View PostGOLFNOLOGIST, on 11 October 2011 - 09:52 PM, said:

Hi Joe,

My current iron is Miura MC-102 with shimada ks-7001 shaft and masda grip.  7i swing weight is D1 3/4.  I feel that the swing weight is too light for me.  I tried my friend's club which is a miura PP9003 with NSpro Modus 3 shaft and golf pride dd2 grip has a swing weight of D3.  I feel and hit very well with that club.  Question is what changes can I make to my club to achieve the same feel as my friend's club.  Can I simply add weight to my club to get D3 swing weight or need to change the whole shaft.
thanks.
FEEL is subjective, especially from two totally different set up shafts. It may not be because of shaft only or swing weight only...how about lie angle, bounce design, etc. Lots of factors need to be considered.

A good club builder should have no problem building those club to the specs you like. A good builder is not cheap, because they spend time to build them correctly.

Some good one you've heard of, A few better one you know of, keep the best one in your hand!

Those are my motto!

Trust me, they are not equal!

Joe




#38 GOLFNOLOGIST

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Posted 13 October 2011 - 06:15 PM


sorry re-post;

Joe, thanks for your reply. I went to the titleist fitting shop to try the AP2 irons. Similarly the best feel combination is with the N.S.Pro 105T shaft with lie angle at 2 degrees upright. Although the 105T shaft is heavier than my current shimada ks7001, it does not feels heavy and is very smooth. Does this means that I am more suitable to use heavier shaft?


#39 joey3108

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Posted 13 October 2011 - 08:34 PM

Again, I wouldn't be able to tell.

Maybe!!!

#40 maxmw

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 12:31 PM

if i put something like this onto the end of the club

Posted Image
would i still need 5 gr like with the grip or will it be 3 gr like with the head to change the swing weight by 1 point?


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#41 joey3108

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 12:31 AM

Please reread the top post again!

Joe

#42 noob2play

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 11:55 PM

View PostSteveL1, on 08 October 2011 - 11:30 PM, said:

Ok, I'm a bit lost and need some help......Just got a new R11 and installed a Aldila RIP 70 playing at 44.5". With the 10g/1g standard wieghts, it swing weights at D8-D9. I can't shorten the shaft any, and I really need the 10g weight in the toe to keep from hooking this thing so I'm lost as to what to change to get the sw down to around D2-D3 where I like it. I also have a Golf Pride Tour Wrap grip which is on the heavy side at 55g so changing to a heavier grip is not much of an option either.

The R11 tip is a TP variety so it's fairly light at 5.8g compared to the Tour versions at 7.4g so that won't help either. Only thing I can think of is to counter weight it about 30g but would prefer not to do that if possible. Drilling the hosel on an R11 is not an option as far as I know. Any ideas?

Head weight with 10g/1g weights and shaft mounting screw is 203.3g and the shaft with tip adaptor and grip is 133.3g.
No way your SW is D8 or D9..it should be around D3..factory std is set at D3-D4 depending on the shaft weight

#43 wedge1

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 08:11 AM

Cannot quite discern the answer to what I need...so here's my question:

What effect on "Stiffness" does 1" longer irons have?  Is there a chart that says something like 1/2" = 1x Soft Stepped?  Or, does extra length really have no impact?  The beginning post only talks about length in relation to changing swingweight.

#44 georgiaboy

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:55 PM

View Postwedge1, on 03 December 2011 - 08:11 AM, said:

Cannot quite discern the answer to what I need...so here's my question:

What effect on "Stiffness" does 1" longer irons have?  Is there a chart that says something like 1/2" = 1x Soft Stepped?  Or, does extra length really have no impact?  The beginning post only talks about length in relation to changing swingweight.

It depends on the shaft you are interested in playing, if it is a tip stiff shaft like and S-300 length will make it weaker, if you have a shaft that is more butt stiff, Project X, it can make it stiffer. i put 1 3/4 inch on my S-300's and the CPM was about like a senior shaft. Hope that helps a little.It also has to do with how heavy your club head is, the longer the shaft and heavier the head the weaker it will get...

Edited by georgiaboy, 03 December 2011 - 01:56 PM.


#45 indygolfman

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 10:38 PM

Ok, quick question:  I have MC's with DGS300's (130g) @D2.  If I were to reshaft with C-Taper Stiffs with are 120g...... then my SW would go to D3?  All other things remaining equal of course (grips, playing length).


Thanks in advance!

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#46 Skeeter

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 05:35 PM

So a heavier shaft equals a lighter SW?  If I am going from a graphite shaft to a steel shaft I have to add weight?  thanks.

#47 georgiaboy

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 07:05 PM

View PostSkeeter, on 08 January 2012 - 05:35 PM, said:

So a heavier shaft equals a lighter SW?  If I am going from a graphite shaft to a steel shaft I have to add weight?  thanks.

No, this is not true. list the shafts your going to and from. one size fits all doesn't count in golf Skeeter. Put a TT X100 in my driver and trust me she aint lighter in any way.

#48 Skeeter

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:46 PM

Got an Adams V3 6 hybrid and 7 hybrid.  They had Basara graphite shafts that are 55 and 52g respectively.  I am putting Nippon 8950GH steel in them that weigh 95g. Just curious what adjustments I will need to make.

#49 Dixie Flatline

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 01:39 PM

View Postindygolfman, on 03 December 2011 - 10:38 PM, said:

Ok, quick question:  I have MC's with DGS300's (130g) @D2.  If I were to reshaft with C-Taper Stiffs with are 120g...... then my SW would go to D3?  All other things remaining equal of course (grips, playing length).


Thanks in advance!

It goes the other way.  SW should go to D1.  BUT keep in mind, that's a general rule.  Some KBS shafts have a different balance point, so I don't know how it would end up.  I'd call KBS and ask them.




#50 newportbeach

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 03:35 PM

Great info this is exactly what I needed thanks.


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#51 campion

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:25 AM

Im playing Ping S56 with KBS tour shafts(silver dot / 1 1/4" over standard), when they were built they had a SW of D5. I had them extended another 1/2 inch so they are now playing around D8. They fit great and I really like the way the play, but with the added length I feel the shafts are playing soft, and im planning on having them reshafted.

My question is how would I go about lowering the SW back to D5 while keeping the added length?



#52 Mr.Rob

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 06:23 PM

So adding half inch length adds 3 sw. What if that half inch is by adding an extension? The extension weighs 10g so that would drop the sw  by 2 giving an effective increase of 1 sw? I have read a lot about sw and extensions but no one ever mentions the butt weight of the extension and epoxy itself being added so not sure if my logic is correct.

#53 sterlingar

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 04:59 PM

Perhaps you could be me a bit of advice. I just bought a used set for the first time. I wanted an all black club, black blade, black shaft. I've been using s300s on blades for years, but the set I bought have kbs tour black nickel stiffs with golf pride tour wraps. I hit my first balls with them today and realized they're not all what I'm used to when it comes to the center of gravity. I've always liked a high cg, but now I have a low cg, all the weight is in the head.
What can I do about that? Is there a simple fix? Not just that but now my trajectory is a lot higher, not so penetrating. Do I need to change the shafts? I don't suppose the grips would make a difference, (I'm a tour velvet guy  now playing with tour wraps.)
Cheers

#54 Demonts

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 12:48 PM

Ok ... I am a little perplexed. Real quick. I want to reshaft a TMSF 2.0 (non TP) with a Kusala white 72. In terms of swingweight I get 2 extreme results...based solely on calculations.

Formula 1:

According to TM(website) the TMSF 2.0 weighs a total of 279g @ D9. Substract the grip weight(25g) and the shaft (45g) one would deduce that the clubhead alone would weigh 209g. Using the online SW charts with a headweight of 209g and shaft weight of 72g @ 45.00" factoring in a 54g grip & tape the resulting SW would be in the D6.5-D7.5 area.

Here is the link : http://www.golf-comp...hart-woods.html

Formula 2:

Using the SW in relation to parts found at the top of this forum my calculations came out to: (please correct me if I'm off)

46.5" @ D9 - 9 pts for 45.00" length = D0
D0 - 6pts for a 55g grip = C4
C4 + 3 pts due to shaft weight (72g - 45g = 27g/9 = 3) = C7

Conclusion:

When I compare the logic on both...D7 to C7.... quite the gap.  I do realise that the only way is to actually weigh the parts, dry assemble and put it on the scale etc...  I just want to save myself the trouble and $ if I know its going to come out to C7 or lower... I don't mind lead tape but I want the clubhead to remain white (not brushed lead). :)


AM I WAY OFF HERE ?

Thanks in advance,

Rene

#55 georgiaboy

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 12:59 PM

View PostDemonts, on 29 February 2012 - 12:48 PM, said:

Ok ... I am a little perplexed. Real quick. I want to reshaft a TMSF 2.0 (non TP) with a Kusala white 72. In terms of swingweight I get 2 extreme results...based solely on calculations.

Formula 1:

According to TM(website) the TMSF 2.0 weighs a total of 279g @ D9. Substract the grip weight(25g) and the shaft (45g) one would deduce that the clubhead alone would weigh 209g. Using the online SW charts with a headweight of 209g and shaft weight of 72g @ 45.00" factoring in a 54g grip & tape the resulting SW would be in the D6.5-D7.5 area.

Here is the link : http://www.golf-comp...hart-woods.html

Formula 2:

Using the SW in relation to parts found at the top of this forum my calculations came out to: (please correct me if I'm off)

46.5" @ D9 - 9 pts for 45.00" length = D0
D0 - 6pts for a 55g grip = C4
C4 + 3 pts due to shaft weight (72g - 45g = 27g/9 = 3) = C7

Conclusion:

When I compare the logic on both...D7 to C7.... quite the gap.  I do realise that the only way is to actually weigh the parts, dry assemble and put it on the scale etc...  I just want to save myself the trouble and $ if I know its going to come out to C7 or lower... I don't mind lead tape but I want the clubhead to remain white (not brushed lead). :)


AM I WAY OFF HERE ?

Thanks in advance,

Rene



That shaft weight is uncut correct? I think she will feel just fine and be in the low D's


#56 Demonts

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 01:36 PM

View Postgeorgiaboy, on 29 February 2012 - 12:59 PM, said:

View PostDemonts, on 29 February 2012 - 12:48 PM, said:

Ok ... I am a little perplexed. Real quick. I want to reshaft a TMSF 2.0 (non TP) with a Kusala white 72. In terms of swingweight I get 2 extreme results...based solely on calculations.

Formula 1:

According to TM(website) the TMSF 2.0 weighs a total of 279g @ D9. Substract the grip weight(25g) and the shaft (45g) one would deduce that the clubhead alone would weigh 209g. Using the online SW charts with a headweight of 209g and shaft weight of 72g @ 45.00" factoring in a 54g grip & tape the resulting SW would be in the D6.5-D7.5 area.

Here is the link : http://www.golf-comp...hart-woods.html

Formula 2:

Using the SW in relation to parts found at the top of this forum my calculations came out to: (please correct me if I'm off)

46.5" @ D9 - 9 pts for 45.00" length = D0
D0 - 6pts for a 55g grip = C4
C4 + 3 pts due to shaft weight (72g - 45g = 27g/9 = 3) = C7

Conclusion:

When I compare the logic on both...D7 to C7.... quite the gap.  I do realise that the only way is to actually weigh the parts, dry assemble and put it on the scale etc...  I just want to save myself the trouble and $ if I know its going to come out to C7 or lower... I don't mind lead tape but I want the clubhead to remain white (not brushed lead). :)


AM I WAY OFF HERE ?

Thanks in advance,

Rene



That shaft weight is uncut correct? I think she will feel just fine and be in the low D's


Yes... for the Kusala White its definitely the raw shaft weight and as for the TM shaft..well ..I would be tempted to say yes as well . Hopefully it does come out low D's... Ideally D3 :)

#57 PDADoc

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 03:10 AM

Pardon me for chiming in, but I've been trying to find out something:  I replaced the stock irons in my R9s (KBS Tour 90g) with KBS Tour 130g.  The original swingweight with the Tour 90s is listed as D1/C6.  What would the new swingweight be with the heavier shafts?  TaylorMade R9 4-PW set.

Thanks!

#58 kygolfer

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 09:43 PM

View Post78blades, on 04 October 2011 - 10:44 PM, said:

@georgiaboy

Ultimately I perfer to drill the wt out to get all the heads 6-8 grams apart, and only add tip wt when absolutely necessary. When I do add wt its usually only 2 grams; I don't like to add more than 4 grams, but thats just me.

I came across a post some months ago on here where the poster was saying that if you got all the heads 8 grams apart from each other it was a cheap way of MOI'ing the clubs. Have you heard anything about this?

I have progressively swing weighted my irons for many years.  What I do is build in 1/2 inch length and set the SW of the 3 iron at D-2 and then add a 1/2 point as I go down the set.  In more recent years I came to understand this is an approximate method of MOI balancing a set.  

To be more precise it is my understanding that you want .65 points between clubs or 1.3 SW between two clubs.  But, those who do this recommend you identify the club in your set you hit consistently in the sweet spot and build off of that club.  You can check if it is working for you by using impact tape.  The claim is that you will balance your set and your impact will improve - especially in your shorter irons.

I have done this for many years and first tried it out with lead tape - all the way back to the early 80's.  It worked for me and that is how I build my personal clubs.  Yes, my wedges are D-6 or higher.  Use lead tape and try it.  I know some very good players who have done this for many years.  That is how I first learned about it and gave it a whirl.

#59 blindfth

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:31 AM

I have been enjoying Ping i5 irons at D0 sw. But with my recent not-so-good succesful Bridgestone J36 with project X flight 5.5 (120g) at D3 sw, and elbow problem, I plan to put vs proto 85 stiff (85g) in J36. If I go with +1/2 inch, what will be the sw? Is it going to be close to D0? Do I need to put more weight in tip area? I will really appreciate for any help.

Edited by blindfth, 01 April 2012 - 05:49 PM.


#60 threshold350

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 01:35 PM

Wow, I wish I found this thread before I installed my Blue Board on my Cobra ZL. I didn't like the stock Voodoo that came with it. I thought it was too light.  I bought a 73g Blue Board and had Golf Galaxy install the tip adapter for me.  Screwed in the new shaft and went to the range.  I couldn't feel the head at all.  It felt too light and I would either pull hook or top it.  I went back to Golf Galaxy and they told me that's what I should have expected.  They did help me out and placed a couple of 2in lead tape on the bottom to add feel back to the head.

Before the lead tape, the club weighed D8.

After the lead tape was installed, the club weighed almost E0.

Surprised I was able to swing it because I've never swung a club that heavy before.  I actually do like the feel now due to the added weight having me slow down my swing. Didn't lose distance.  I actually added distance.

Just my experience and thought I'd share.


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