
Swing weight factors in relation to parts
#6
Posted 21 May 2011 - 01:36 AM
#7
Posted 22 May 2011 - 12:03 AM
g8rgolfer, on 17 May 2011 - 12:55 AM, said:
Minty7890, on 18 May 2011 - 06:59 PM, said:
aliikane, on 21 May 2011 - 01:36 AM, said:
#8
Posted 05 June 2011 - 11:36 PM
joey3108, on 22 May 2011 - 12:03 AM, said:
Can you please go into detail as to why this is correct? How can adding lead tape to a head NOT make the shaft easier to load? Just as an example if an iron is at C5 it's going to feel more "boardy" and launch lower than the exact same iron with enough tape to get it to D5. How is this possible if the shaft isn't flexing more in the transition? I bring up this scenario because I just added 1/2" to my MP-60's and added enough tape to get them all to D2. The difference is night and day in being able to feel the shaft load and the ball launching higher.
#9
Posted 06 June 2011 - 09:07 AM
#10
Posted 19 July 2011 - 09:05 PM

#12
Posted 20 July 2011 - 11:10 PM
SergioKSU, on 05 June 2011 - 11:36 PM, said:
joey3108, on 22 May 2011 - 12:03 AM, said:
Can you please go into detail as to why this is correct? How can adding lead tape to a head NOT make the shaft easier to load? Just as an example if an iron is at C5 it's going to feel more "boardy" and launch lower than the exact same iron with enough tape to get it to D5. How is this possible if the shaft isn't flexing more in the transition? I bring up this scenario because I just added 1/2" to my MP-60's and added enough tape to get them all to D2. The difference is night and day in being able to feel the shaft load and the ball launching higher.
Sorry, I should reread the first question carefully.
Changing SW will change flex 1-2 cpm per 1 point swing weight. So to make a drastic change of flex will need a huge sw change. Most of us can't feel up to 4 cpm.
1/2" is equal to 6gr plus the additional weight adjustment for you to adjust it to a D2 will definitely make a different IMO.
#13
Posted 20 July 2011 - 11:13 PM
acquadiice, on 06 June 2011 - 09:07 AM, said:
Jscopus, on 19 July 2011 - 09:05 PM, said:
Jeff
Sorry, I don't believe in counter weighting. It's like cheating without solving the problem IMO.
#14
Posted 25 July 2011 - 02:33 PM
#15
Posted 28 July 2011 - 06:30 PM

Edited by bfrey64, 28 July 2011 - 06:32 PM.
#17
Posted 29 July 2011 - 12:35 AM
For those of you that think this is way too difficult, it isn't. If one has any mechanical skill at all this is a very easy process, you just need the tools and they aren't all that expensive.
#20
Posted 01 September 2011 - 02:52 AM

#21
Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:30 AM
#23
Posted 22 September 2011 - 02:33 PM
#24
Posted 01 October 2011 - 03:47 PM
78blades, on 29 July 2011 - 12:35 AM, said:
For those of you that think this is way too difficult, it isn't. If one has any mechanical skill at all this is a very easy process, you just need the tools and they aren't all that expensive.
Edited by georgiaboy, 01 October 2011 - 03:45 PM.
#26
Posted 04 October 2011 - 10:44 PM
Ultimately I perfer to drill the wt out to get all the heads 6-8 grams apart, and only add tip wt when absolutely necessary. When I do add wt its usually only 2 grams; I don't like to add more than 4 grams, but thats just me.
I came across a post some months ago on here where the poster was saying that if you got all the heads 8 grams apart from each other it was a cheap way of MOI'ing the clubs. Have you heard anything about this?
#27
Posted 05 October 2011 - 04:41 PM
#29
Posted 05 October 2011 - 11:51 PM
#30
Posted 06 October 2011 - 04:05 AM












