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Reshafting FT-3! w/ pics


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#1 binneguru

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Posted 25 July 2006 - 03:49 PM

So after having one of my best ball-striking rounds ever hitting 12-15 fairways i decided that my FT-3 wasnt working for me  :man_in_love:

I had a diamana shafted FT-3 before which i got for around 420 on ebay and sold it to a guy i was playing with for 650 because he was absolutely killing it and couldn't wait to get one from Callaway since it was special order.

I scored a draw bias 9.5 degree FT-3 w/ NVS shaft for $220 shipped from yobo and decided to play it for a while. I was very accurate with it due to the disgusting launch angle and a ton of backspin ;) It was like hitting a 3-wood that went 275 carry which is only 15 yards ahead of my 3-wood

So i bought a diamana out of the classifieds with the intent on reshafting my FT-3. I personally don't trust other clubmakers because it is not their club and they don't really care all that much. Besides I am cheap and I have knowledge of how the internals of the club are and I know you can basically introduce heat into two areas (well 3 w/ a hot rod but i dont have one) of the Ft-3 head the sole and the crown. Neither of these would work for me as I was worried about melting the rubber that holds the face and the body of the head together.


Instead i did what I think is the best way to take care of this reshaft. I cut the NVS about 1" above the ferrule/sleeve and went from there.

I covered the entire head with masking tape to make sure i didn't inadvertently scratch it by it rolling over or something. I did not secure the head in a vise as i didn't want to risk cracking the composite crown and i wanted my hand on the head to feel if it got too hot.

My first order of business was to drill out the shaft inside the sleeve with a smaller drillbit i then worked up 2 sizes to 335 tip. This allowed me to rock it back and forth slightly and get all the graphite out more or less. I stopped a few times to make sure that it wasn't getting too hot by the crown or down at the sole.

I then took a dremel to the inside of the hosel and used a sanding drum. I used the drum to sand the inside of the shim until i contacted the titanium hosel. This left the top part of the sleeve basically floating there but still being adhered by the epoxy. I slowly sanded down the top part of the sleeve/ferrule with the dremel took to within 1/16" of the top. i didn't take pictures of this process for whatever reason :cheesy:

I then grabbed the thin ring left  with needlenose pliers and slowly pried it off of the head making sure not to hit the crown. This left me with an unscathed FT-3 head.

I then drilled out the lead plug in the bottom of the hosel and reamed the head to accept the new diamana shaft. My sleeve will be here tomorrow and I will have a completed club ready to hit bombs with again :)

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#2 binneguru

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Posted 25 July 2006 - 03:53 PM

oh and i didn't care about saving the shaft so that is another bonus to doing the cut and drill method. It took about 45 minutes to figure out how to do.

I have seen some pictures of some terribly butchered ft-3s with chips around where the hosel is on the crown, tour heads no less! We probably know where i saw these pics... :man_in_love:

Anyways the silver area on the crown can be covered by a standard 335 tip ferrule and I took practically no paint off of the crown at all. I am very pleased with how it turned out.

That being said I will never do that again. ;)

#3 binneguru

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 12:14 AM

Also FT-3 heads love sleeping on a bed of ping japan grips :man_in_love:

#4 daughterscameron

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 08:47 PM

that's way cool. nice job. :man_in_love:

#5 binneguru

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 09:06 PM

Thanks. I am glad someone appreciates it ;)

I finished it up today.

My sleeves i ordered were from golfworks. They did not fit in the hosel as well as I would have liked so i had to sand the outside of it slightly to get it to go in.  When I inserted it in the shaft did not want to go down into the head very easily so I had to take a drill bit and drill the inside out so the diamana would go in easily. While i did this I took the liberty of drilling in toward the face a half degree which delofted the club a half degree to a 9 which is perfect for me.

I included a few pics of the end result and a pic of the adapter for those that wanted to see it.

The "tour" adapters others hype are simply this adapter with a "bore" that isnt symmetrical You twist the tour sleeve and you can get it a little open a little closed or delofted or additional loft and a little closed etc. It is fun to play with :man_in_love:

That being said I might do this for golfwrx'ers but I would not do that for a living it is too stressful the FT-3 is such a baby.

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#6 binneguru

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 10:23 PM

I am still trying to match the distance of a clone of the R7 460 with the TP reax rombax 75. I couldnt justify paying $1000 for a square head so i tried the clone out and I absolutely killed it but I just hated the sound and the feel. This one should be pretty close in distance :man_in_love: I hope.

#7 Jetlv25

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 10:31 PM

Very nice job and thanks for the tutorial.  Gives me a very good idea of what to do when the time comes for me to try it.

#8 binneguru

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 10:56 PM

No problem at all.

I left out the epoxying and shaft prep since that is pretty straightforward.  I really recommend not trying to save the shaft. Also you almost need a dremel for the hosel as the hosel has two steps and the outer step toward the end of the hosel at the top is a weird size and you might chip the paint trying to drill this part out.

I also didn't swingweigh the head as I don't have a real preference and I feel adding weight to the head will be done through hotmelt and not by putting weight in the shaft. I like the feel of this driver at 45" without adding weight :man_in_love:

Budget about an hour of time to do this assuming you have the tools.  It would be a 10min job with a butane torch and a shaft puller.

I guess you could also use a shaft puller that had a silcone piece where it contacts the head itself and not worry about cutting the sleeve and getting it out that way but I didnt have one available. maybe if i did this on a more regular basis I would get one made/machined.

Until I hit it tomorrow.

#9 Jetlv25

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 11:08 PM

Let us know how she hits tomorrow.

#10 Chunkywedges

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 11:17 PM

Thanks for the great write up.  If I may ask a couple of questions... what is the insertion depth and did you find a shaft with the extended parallel tip section?  I've been told 2 different stories here.  One person says that you need the ext. tip to make up for the bore and another said any shaft will do.  

I know these heads play a touch stiffer, at least it felt that way to me.


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#11 binneguru

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 11:27 PM

insertion depth is 1 3/8" from the bottom of the hosel to the end of the head and the rest of the distance is up to the ferrule and it is 1.75" total prepped. I didnt prep all the way up the sleeve too far past where it just becomes a ferrule. I tipped 1/2" and the calipers were fine with no insertion problems and at least another 1" of tip section beyond the ferrule on the shaft before it started getting bigger than 335. I didn't measure past that as it was not a concern for me. My diamana is 73x5ct

The butt end has a 1.25" extension. The Golfworks extensions do not work in the Diamana I dont know if they shipped me the wrong ones or if the butt end is 610. I just used part of the NVS shaft :man_in_love: Cut to where it inserted 1'" in prepped that remeasured took off another 1/4" then glued that in the night before.

Best case scenario is $300 for a new shaft but I didn't feel like paying that.  This with the 1/2" tip will play almost like an X.

Edited by binneguru, 26 July 2006 - 11:30 PM.


#12 Chunkywedges

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Posted 26 July 2006 - 11:54 PM

That's very good news.  SO with the diamana and the 3" parallel tip section you were able to achieve X flex by trimming a 1/2" off and inserting 1/8" deeper with the FT3.  If I find a 4" pt section shaft it would play true to flex?

#13 binneguru

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 12:13 AM

I would think so. I am not 100% sure though I would wait for joe kwok to visit this thread. the 1 and 3/8" is what the shaft actually goes into the head and 1 3/4 inch before it comes out of the sleeve. The sleeve may act like a hosel since there is not a "flex joint" created by a gap in the hosel and the "ferrule"

The FT-3 sleeve was way harder than the aftermarket sleeve in overall hardness etc it basically acts like a hosel :man_in_love:

#14 Chunkywedges

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 12:33 AM

This is awesome info, my FT-3 should be here next week.  I'm trying to figure out what I'll need to get in order to reshaft it.  It's coming with the stock NVS.  I'd like it to play true to flex and can't seem to get a straight answer outta anyone locally.  I won't be doing the reshaft myself but want to bring my fitter the right shaft for it.

#15 Dyno

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 07:21 PM

Very nice.  Shaft yanky on FT3 isn't too bad. It's their retarded ferrule that's a pain.  Worth it though...seemed to have higher ballspeed than my J33R by a consistent 3-4 mph.


#16 dryosh

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Posted 28 July 2006 - 04:31 AM

Nice job!!!  i did the same thing to mine with similar drill techniques.  What a pain in the a**!!!!  It turned out nice though.  I'm sure you can attest the secret with the FT3 is PATIENCE, go slow and the result is as you pictured. :man_in_love:

#17 lbhitter

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Posted 29 July 2006 - 11:56 AM

You stated you "reamed" the hosel to accept the new shaft.  If I understand correctly you reamed it to accept a .350 shaft?  Is a stock FT-3 hosel .335?

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#18 binneguru

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Posted 29 July 2006 - 02:05 PM

Sorry i used reamed when i meant drill out. My diamana was 335 but the club is designed for a 350 tip. I just used an adapter to make the diamana basically centered and snug.

I didnt get all the graphite out because i was worried about scratching the crown inadvertently. I went ahead and inserted the sleeve even though it was snug and drilled out the part of the sleeve that collapsed inward slightly so the diamana went in without having to bang the butt end on the floor to get it to seat as that might hurt the shaft :man_in_love: It may not hurt it but i didn't want to chance it. The shaft was still tight to the point where I could have gripped the club without the shaft turning too much but i use a little unorthodox gripping method. I'll post about that later.

#19 BJG718

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Posted 07 January 2007 - 10:12 PM

can someone please tell me all that i will need if i cut off the stock NVS shaft and drill out inside the hosel...? include links to show me too please!

oh, and also, i hear that shafts play half a flex to a whole flex stiff in this head...is this true?

Edited by BJG718, 07 January 2007 - 10:13 PM.


#20 Ultimate Gaj

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 05:15 AM

Sorry to reopen this thread 6 years later. I have a ft-3 with a BB83 X and I have just pulled the shaft... by hand! :swoon:
All I did was tape up the composite lines connected to the metal crown and sole and then put a wet towel around the head but not covering the face. I then got a heat gun and heated for about 4-5 minutes stopping every 1 1/2 minutes to cool slightly so it did not melt the composite crown. and then presto a successful pull with no damage to the head, shaft or adaptor! :superman:

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