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Paint fill 101

paint fill paintfill

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#61 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 04:02 PM

I'm bored, anyone have any clubs they want done??? You pay for shipping and I'll do em...nothing better to do until the time changes and I can play later in the day


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#62 Pudgelewis

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 02:13 AM

View PostMikeVeredas, on 10 February 2011 - 11:33 PM, said:

So Ive done some extensive tal strip testing. Finding anything and everything to slather it on to test it out. Tal strip has not damaged any metal at all. None. I declare it safe for all metals. And it will remove any and all paints. The one thing I havnt been able to determine is if it would damage a black ox finish.

So is this a safe process for Adams PVD finishes?  I'd like to do the paint on my A4 Tours but would like to know what works best without harming the finish.  Another member suggested Citri Strip.

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#63 Russ757

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 08:06 AM

View PostMikeVeredas, on 15 February 2011 - 10:46 AM, said:

Oh yeah...why isnt this a sticky yet?

Agree, this should be a sticky. I need to change out some paint on the  R9 "9"s and gonna try the Tal Strip and qtip method... Thanks!
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#64 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:55 AM

View PostPudgelewis, on 09 March 2011 - 02:13 AM, said:

View PostMikeVeredas, on 10 February 2011 - 11:33 PM, said:

So Ive done some extensive tal strip testing. Finding anything and everything to slather it on to test it out. Tal strip has not damaged any metal at all. None. I declare it safe for all metals. And it will remove any and all paints. The one thing I havnt been able to determine is if it would damage a black ox finish.

So is this a safe process for Adams PVD finishes?  I'd like to do the paint on my A4 Tours but would like to know what works best without harming the finish.  Another member suggested Citri Strip.
I have not done it on an adams club specifically so I cant say for certain. I havnt had any issues yet with any finishes, but of course the first time I say "I guarantee it wont hurt" is the first time it does. Citri Strip works decent too. Theres just nothing like tal strip and 5 minutes... :partytime2:

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#65 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 11:02 PM

I am really happy/proud of this last one. A Scotty California Montery that I did with Tamiya translucent Blue, green, yellow and orange





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#66 FutureScratchGolfer

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 11:46 PM

Dude does great work. Inspired me to paintfill my SV Tour wedges. The paint legit came out perfect the first time I just dont like the colors!! (Yellow and red on the black sv tour) I think Im going with all red this time. Ill post pics when Im done. Awesome hobby.
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#67 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 11:50 PM

Yeah it can be a lot of fun. Look forward to seeing the results!

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#68 BNich0622

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Posted 23 March 2011 - 11:50 PM

Stick this thread!!
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#69 mr.haha

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 05:10 PM

View PostMikeVeredas, on 15 March 2011 - 09:55 AM, said:

View PostPudgelewis, on 09 March 2011 - 02:13 AM, said:

View PostMikeVeredas, on 10 February 2011 - 11:33 PM, said:

So Ive done some extensive tal strip testing. Finding anything and everything to slather it on to test it out. Tal strip has not damaged any metal at all. None. I declare it safe for all metals. And it will remove any and all paints. The one thing I havnt been able to determine is if it would damage a black ox finish.

So is this a safe process for Adams PVD finishes?  I'd like to do the paint on my A4 Tours but would like to know what works best without harming the finish.  Another member suggested Citri Strip.
I have not done it on an adams club specifically so I cant say for certain. I havnt had any issues yet with any finishes, but of course the first time I say "I guarantee it wont hurt" is the first time it does. Citri Strip works decent too. Theres just nothing like tal strip and 5 minutes... :partytime2:

i plastered the face of my 910's with tal strip and the PVD  (i assume its PVD) on the titleist faces showed now ill effects. however, the tal strrip was only on the club face for at most 10 minutes.

mods: please sticky this thread!
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#70 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 08:50 PM

Glad to head it didnt affect the finish! Didnt think it would!


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#71 polarisdude94

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:27 PM

Does the enamel look better than the acrylic? also does the acetone added make it have that translucent color, or just the glossy finish? Also, will using the acetone with acrylic still give the same glossy finish?

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#72 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:29 PM

The translucent is actually a type from tamiya. I prefer the acrylics over the enamels. The acetone is just for clean up. You don't want to apply it directly to the paint because it would strip it off. If you do the paint right and let it dry you should have a nice gloss finish, unless you use matte paint of course. ;)

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#73 polarisdude94

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:31 PM

Okay, thanks.

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#74 CassinoNorth

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:31 PM

View PostMikeVeredas, on 23 March 2011 - 11:02 PM, said:

I am really happy/proud of this last one. A Scotty California Montery that I did with Tamiya translucent Blue, green, yellow and orange


Wow, awesome. In love with the stripped finish/blue paintfill.

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#75 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:33 PM

It's up for trade on the bst. Check out my ad


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#76 CassinoNorth

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 09:48 PM

Ha maybe if it was a Del Mar. I'm a heel shafted kinda guy.

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#77 Yanki01

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 12:10 AM

great DIY
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#78 AirMail

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 07:02 AM

Sticky this thread!

Where can I find this clear acrylic paint guys...thanks
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#79 TAG617

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 07:10 AM

You can find the Tamiya paints at any Hobby Shop or even on Ebay...

When I was doing mine I just googled hobby shops in (town name) and there was one about 10 mins away. I never even knew it was there...

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#80 mr.haha

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 09:15 AM

View PostTAG617, on 08 April 2011 - 07:10 AM, said:

You can find the Tamiya paints at any Hobby Shop or even on Ebay...

When I was doing mine I just googled hobby shops in (town name) and there was one about 10 mins away. I never even knew it was there...


+1 to your statement. Forget testors and go with tamiya acrylic only. gloss and clear are the best options imo

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#81 Yanki01

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:52 AM

no tamiya in my area so i used testors gloss black and white. only wanted to change the iron #'s on my sticks and wedges. came out very nice and clean.
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#82 Yanki01

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:58 AM

only thing, my wedges were brand new, only hit one round. they were vokey w/ black nickel finish and the acetone rubbed some finish off on the bottom. no biggie, now that they're broken in, the bottom has rubbed off some with play.
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#83 jay8s

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 02:17 PM

Started my Tommy Armour 845s' last night.  I am planning on doing one club at a time.  Thinking St. Louis Blues theme, Blue and Gold for the 9 and wedges, and Red and Orange for the 3-8.  I will post up as soon as one is done.

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#84 bigmacmdm

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 04:14 PM

Very good! Thanks for the tutorial. Looks great!

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#85 RRFireblade

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 08:33 PM

Just a thought I'd throw out there , sorry if it was mentioned before , Nail polish works extemely well for this.

It's cheap and available everywhere ,comes in thousands of colors ,opacities , pearls , metallics, etc. Drys super fast so you can do dozens of options in an evening and is very easy to clean up.

You can even cut it with acetone for additional transparency. Durability is very good as well and typically lasts me (on the sole) a full season easy. Back of the clubs last indefinately.

Just another option.

Nice thread.

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#86 AirMail

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 01:37 PM

Another question,
-whats the best way to 'thin' the paint, asuming I will be using acrylics.....will acetone not be appropriate...maybe use 'paint thinner'...what to use with acrylics? (Edit, just googled, and Tamiya sells its own thinners specifically for their acrylics...)

Also- anyone tried using a syringe with a needle to do the lettering fill and small area's...maybe with more precision and ease? Thanks

Edited by -ST-, 11 April 2011 - 01:43 PM.

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Callaway Apex Hybrid 20* Motore Speeder 865X
Titleist 716 CB 4-PW DG AMT X100
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#87 TAG617

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Posted 11 April 2011 - 01:48 PM

Rubbing alcohol works well to thin the paint as the OP mentioned.

I usually just use toothpicks to do the paint-fill since you don't have to be perfect, any excess can be cleaned up with acetone.

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#88 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 11:05 PM

View Post-ST-, on 11 April 2011 - 01:37 PM, said:

Another question, -whats the best way to 'thin' the paint, asuming I will be using acrylics.....will acetone not be appropriate...maybe use 'paint thinner'...what to use with acrylics? (Edit, just googled, and Tamiya sells its own thinners specifically for their acrylics...)Also- anyone tried using a syringe with a needle to do the lettering fill and small area's...maybe with more precision and ease? Thanks


I have used syringes and needles before (I am a paramedic and my wife a FNP so they are easy to come by) and toothpicks actually work better. Less prep and all that. Tried and true usually the cheap-o things work the best!

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#89 deck

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 11:14 PM

Going to work my way up to doing a scotty as well. Practicing on some old wedges now. Rainy days watch out.
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#90 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 11:16 PM

There is no fear at all of going at it with a scotty...worst you can do is mess up so bad that you have to start over. No big deal. Thats what I love about this is there is no way to damage anything, just make it look ugly and have to do it again.


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