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Paint fill 101

paint fill paintfill

1343 replies to this topic

#31 jkmacguru

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 12:59 AM

If I had one I would! This would have saved me a ton of time on my irons last year!


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#32 hittingitdeep

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Posted 02 January 2011 - 03:22 PM

Good show....how long it that take?

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#33 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 08 January 2011 - 02:10 PM

Because of overnight drying and the such it was about a total of 2.5 days. Actual labor time was about 2 hours. But I learned you have to be totally dry before messing with it or your results will look like crap.

Here is my wedges with the fill I finished this morning.


dont mind the streaks on the 60...the pic was before final clean up.

Edited by MikeVeredas, 08 January 2011 - 02:11 PM.


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#34 ProjectX_Mizuno

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 01:25 PM

So do you recommend using acrylic or enamel paint?

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#35 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 03:32 PM

Ha! I just answered in your thread. Right now I am in love with the Tamiya transparent acrylics. The results have been awesome. Thin it out with a little alcohol and they just look goooood.


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#36 ProjectX_Mizuno

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Posted 10 January 2011 - 03:39 PM

 MikeVeredas, on 10 January 2011 - 03:32 PM, said:

Ha! I just answered in your thread. Right now I am in love with the Tamiya transparent acrylics. The results have been awesome. Thin it out with a little alcohol and they just look goooood.

Thanks for the response! Will order some acrylic!

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#37 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 12 January 2011 - 07:41 PM

So a quick durability update. Today I went ape sh!t cleaning my clubs after a..lets say off day...I wanted to clean the shanks out. One thing not on my mind was the paint fill. After a soak in hot soapy water and a strong scrub with a stiff brush front and back the paints held up perfectly.

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#38 CassinoNorth

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Posted 17 January 2011 - 04:02 PM

Whenever I put alcohol in the O O O's and pant it it all goes to the outside of the O and looks terrible.


Any suggestions?

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#39 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 01:46 AM

I'm assuming the O O O means the cherry dots on the Cameron... Try using less alcohol. But with any transparent paint it will collect to the outside because of the surface area. The mire you thin the more it will go out if center.

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#40 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 01:49 AM

Also what paint are you using? Brand? Acrylic or enamel?


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#41 titleistfan14

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 11:54 AM

still no video would love to see this process done on video

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#42 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 12:15 PM

I still dont have a video camera...
I'm serious if someone will send me one to borrow I will promptly return it when I'm done and have a video step by step guide!

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#43 Jshyne

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:24 PM

All you really need to strip the paint is the acetone get a high concentrate and a box of Q-tips  it is a much much cleaner and simpler process. To remove access paint use a Mr clean eraser and just rub over the flat portions lightly it with some water it will come right off. If your access paint is in a nook use the acetone on the Q-tip you can control it very easily.

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#44 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 01:31 AM

Acetone does not get all the paint off all the time. The paint fill in my AP2's and lacquer based paints were pretty much immune to the acetone. Even with overnight soaks with 90% acetone and 10% mineral spirits. The tal-strip is super fast and doesnt require much brushing to get all the paint out.

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#45 -GoldenHawk-

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 06:32 PM

I plan on filling my mp-60s when I get them. Is it best to remove the blue that is already in the letters and then do it?


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#46 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:18 PM

YES!!! Painting over existing paint will give you nasty results. You want to paint bare metal only.

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#47 Justmuckit

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:12 PM

Just started my first project based on these instructions.

I've noticed that stripping the paint out of a Cameron is much easier than stripping paint out of Vokey's.

I'm also wondering about my paint selection.

I chose Tamiya acrylic, but flat color instead of clear or gloss.

Anyone have any experience using flat?

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#48 Matt5161

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 04:04 PM

Thanks a buch, looks great!

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#49 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 07:46 PM

Ive used flats and they didnt fit my eye. Thats not to say they dont work, just they dont do it for me. Tal strip will take the paint right out of the vokeys, no problemo! I have yet to encounter a paint that will resist tal strip. And I used it on a black ice odyssey recently, didnt damage the finish. YMMV of course...

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#50 Justmuckit

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 07:51 PM

View PostMikeVeredas, on 04 February 2011 - 07:46 PM, said:

Ive used flats and they didnt fit my eye. Thats not to say they dont work, just they dont do it for me. Tal strip will take the paint right out of the vokeys, no problemo! I have yet to encounter a paint that will resist tal strip. And I used it on a black ice odyssey recently, didnt damage the finish. YMMV of course...

My local Lowes didn't have Tal.  Had to settle for Klean Strip.

Worked great on the Cameron.  Not so much on the Vokeys.  Had to repeat the process three times.

Posted Image

Edited by Justmuckit, 04 February 2011 - 07:51 PM.


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#51 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 08:16 PM

Auto zone carries it. I'd stay away from the spray and get the can. Have done over a hundred clubs and it's still easily 90% full

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#52 Justmuckit

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 10:37 PM

 MikeVeredas, on 04 February 2011 - 08:16 PM, said:

Auto zone carries it. I'd stay away from the spray and get the can. Have done over a hundred clubs and it's still easily 90% full

I posted a picture of the stuff I used.  It's a gel, not a spray.

I've since moved on to the fill.

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#53 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 10:40 PM

The pic didn't load...oh well, for future readers of this thread, I've tried just about every paint remover out there and tal strip is the best! Titleist uses some damn hard to remove paint. My old AP2's and vokeys paint are tough to remove unless you got the right stuff!!!

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#54 Justmuckit

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 11:35 AM

Ugh.

Guess I'm starting over.

It looks great from a distance, but I really don't care for the flat finish on the Cameron.  Covering a bigger area like the cherries shows every "flaw" in the paint.

Vokeys look much better, but for some reason on one of them \the paint pulled out in a spot when cleaning up with non-acetone remover.  After leaving to dry overnight.

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#55 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 12:16 PM

Don't fret...my first dozen attempts were crappola. The cherry dots still take me a couple attempts to get right.


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#56 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 11:33 PM

So Ive done some extensive tal strip testing. Finding anything and everything to slather it on to test it out. Tal strip has not damaged any metal at all. None. I declare it safe for all metals. And it will remove any and all paints. The one thing I havnt been able to determine is if it would damage a black ox finish.

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#57 Cameron proz

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 04:09 PM

Just did my wedges and putter and they look great.

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#58 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 11:29 PM

 Aburd, on 14 February 2011 - 04:09 PM, said:

Just did my wedges and putter and they look great.
Awesome!

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#59 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 10:44 AM

Heres a couple of my latest works. The studio stainless was for a buddy. I am still looking for a solid green that I love... The fastback is my daily gamer. I wanted a "smoke out" look so I have a black baby t grip and the translucent black throughout. I love it. Very understated but different.







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#60 HuckleBogey_Finn

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 10:46 AM

Oh yeah...why isnt this a sticky yet?


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