Edited by persimmonpal, 11 November 2010 - 04:30 PM.
1954 MacGregor Tourney Tommy Arour 653 Eye O Matic Refinish
Posted 11 November 2010 - 04:51 PM
The stampings on the toe are "so easy" to read. I'm getting better at that but have a "way to go" yet. The method of doing stampings that you sent to me a few years ago has been a big help.
Edited by Maxwell, 11 November 2010 - 04:51 PM.
Posted 11 November 2010 - 05:06 PM
Do the clubs have the True Temper Tourney E flex shaft?
Posted 11 November 2010 - 05:08 PM
Do the clubs have the True Temper Tourney E flex shaft?
Thanks Wally! The shafts are "D" Flex.
Original leather wraps too!
Posted 11 November 2010 - 05:13 PM
Posted 12 November 2010 - 09:50 AM
After I cleaned up the plates and face, reepoxied everything, etc, I wet sanded the heads with 600 grit, let dry, and then applied the paste filler.
The paste filler goes on pretty thick, and is allowed to stay on until it starts to look like dried mud. What is happening is that the filler seeps into the pores, dries, and is then wiped off, leaving a smooth surface. You generally need to do two coats on the persimmons, as the pores can be large.
After the filler comes off, it is allowed to cure for at least a day, and then it is time to mask off all the areas that will not be painted.
This part is a pain in the butt.. It requires alot of patience, using an exacto blade and clear tape.. Takes about 15 minutes per club.
After they are all masked, I paint them with 2 coats of black gloss paint. I try to pull off the tape as soon as the paint is dry to the touch.. if it stays on too long sometimes the tape will leave behind a gummy residue which is a real pain to get off and not alter the appearance of either the plates or the paint.
After the tape is off, I will usually let the woods sit for 2-3 days to fully cure, then wet sand again in a circular motion on the wood parts, to smooth out the paint. To clean up any overspray on the borders of the face, plate, etc, I will use OOOO steel wool, after the water from the wet sand has worn off.
When I get to that point next week sometime I will post more pics.. I hope this helps people who want to give refinishing a shot!
Filler with "muddy" appearance.. Time to wipe off
Plates taped off(the face and backweights are also taped off)
With the taped removed
Posted 12 November 2010 - 04:16 PM
Posted 12 November 2010 - 04:39 PM
I have done that in the past, and will do that if the plates have nice tight seams. This set, there were small gaps here and there between the cavity and the plate, so when I reepoxied the plates, I put enough epoxy in there so it squeezed through and filled in that crack. Then, when cured, I sand it all flush.
You are right though.. MUCH easier to not have to mask off the plate..
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Posted 14 November 2010 - 03:39 PM
So far I have replaced all of the sole screws on all 4 wood.. I have oversized head screws so that I can replace them, grind the down and have all of the screws nice and flush.
I have also removed the soleplates and reepoxied, removed all of the face screws on all four woods and reepoxied them as well. The insert on the 34 & 5 are nice & tight,, but the driver was loose, so I removed that one and reepoxied.
I have painted the stamps on the soleplates. Next step is to wet sand the entire heads with 600 grit, let dry, and then do two applications of pore filler.
After that its mask off the faces plates and backweights, paint, the apply the finish!
Hope you like the sole plate pics!
I LOVE the 653 EOMs.. My co-favorite set along with Penna TP Specials.. Cant wait to see these things done sf 125.jpg
I agree about the 653 eye-o-matics. One of the most striking clubs that MacGregor ever made. A lot of them got messed up back in 1970's and 80's. because everyone thought they should have a stain that showed off the grain on their drivers. The 653 eye-o's and Penna P-40's epitomize Classic woods.
Very true.. I love the look of nice grain, but I say if the club was black originally, then it was meant to be black. I have seen plenty of clubs with their stamps sanded completely away, because whoever was doing the refinishing was obsessed with getting the black out. What a shame! The P40s are pretty cool too.. I was never a huge fan of the SEOM style head, but those are an exception.
Thanks for the comments!
Edited by persimmonpal, 14 November 2010 - 03:41 PM.
Posted 15 November 2010 - 03:19 PM
I used to do lacquer finishes, but I could bever get a dipped lacquer down.. even thinned out substntially I would still end up with runs. I tried spraying for a while, but was never satisfied with that either, as the "orange peel
effect drove me nuts.
Although the poly will amber in 10 years or so, it is more durable than lacquer, and the dipped finish is way better than a sprayed finish, imho.
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:30 PM
I have to agree with you regarding spraying on a finish, I have never had much luck with it in the past
and don't even bother anymore. I think unless you have the expensive spraying booth and equipment
it does not work out very well. Dipping is the best way (for results) for most of us.
Also, I think the vast majority of people who refinish golf clubs and spray their finishes with success
use moisture cure poly as opposed to oil modified. But a lot of people don't have the equipment
(and can't control the temp/humidity) like the manufacturers can.
For the older clubs, I still think varnish with a satin finish is the best (thinned varnish, sanded & waxed).
BTW - "heavy duty gloss enamel" - You are referring to oil based paint, right? (I was just wondering
because "enamel" has taken on almost a generic meaning!)
Edited by Bella Woods, 15 November 2010 - 05:34 PM.
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