Renovating old and rusty Wedges back to life
Posted 04 February 2012 - 11:07 PM
That 56 can be brought back nicely, but the 52 has significant wear on the face and grooves. It's one thing to sand out minor dings, but you can't replace metal on the face and grooves short of welding and then machining again.
Edited by Brad0731, 05 February 2012 - 12:07 AM.
Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:52 PM
Edited by Brad0731, 08 February 2012 - 12:25 AM.
Posted 08 February 2012 - 01:42 PM
Posted 12 February 2012 - 01:31 PM
Posted 18 March 2012 - 04:51 PM
This is my result after some Coke, file, WD40 and sanding paper today.
I´m waiting for a groove sharpener and thinking about do some paintjob aswell :P
Thanks Howard. Great instruction!
Edited by Wristaction, 18 March 2012 - 04:52 PM.
Posted 18 March 2012 - 07:33 PM
Posted 18 March 2012 - 08:38 PM
Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:37 AM
I dont know what re-groover you got, but if you go slowly, you can make that 52 good again, ive seen worse.
Just use WD40 or similar as "glider" when you re-groove, and DONT use force. 8-10 gentle, but steady and firm strokes is what it takes, but pay attention to both with and depth. Wide must be less than 0.89 mm, and dept less than 0.5 mm
I know its hard to judge if the wedge is legal afterwards, so i had some measuring tools made, since PGA in Denmark dont know anyting about equipment. Re-grooved wedges is to be judged as new, but by the old rules. That means testing for groove wide and dept is done in the sweet spot area, while used wedges NOT re-grooved is measured outside the sweet spot. Thats the difference IF they should be judged, but you the player is responsible for having legal equipment.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:45 AM
Im using Perma Blue on tube, and one tube is a "life time supply" if you dont do this on others clubs but your own ( at least 30 wedges, with 3-4 treatment each)
133222 oz net wt Squeeze Tube (Paste)
Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:52 AM
Silicone oil is the best. Its VERY water resistant, so water dont stick to the metal
If you live i Canada or cold areas, you just go and get the stuff used for moldings in car doors, so they dont freeze in the winter. Thats silicone oil, and every auto shop should have it (in cold areas)
Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:54 AM
YES, but read the my post again (above) so you understand WHY you should do the paint job first, you seems to miss that point
Posted 23 March 2012 - 05:41 PM
And now I need to find a new project
Posted 24 March 2012 - 02:21 AM
I think a lot of you is ready to move on to the next step, home grinding.
If you got a raw wedge to renovate, why dont you do a little sole adjustment while you are at it ?
If you have done what i told you to do for renovating, and you did well like ive seen many of you have, you have the tools, and the craftsman skills needed.
Just find out what you will benefit from (what part of the sole should be grinded, why and how)
If you need help to find out, just tell what object you got, tell about how you like to play it,(or wants to play it) your problems now, your swing style and turf conditions, and you will get a answer and a way to get there.( Ask in the post im linking to if you need help, so this post dont run to much off topic)
Here is the first one ive made, all done by hand. ( i got a belt grinder now, grinding a few every day, because Wedges is still my #1 club)
I played those for 2 years, but now there is not much left of them, so they are just kept as a memory of the first grinded wedges i did.
Spin was crazy because my way of adding weight did lower COG.
SPIN WITHOUT GROOVES
At the moment im into some "nut case" stuff to find out what actually makes spin.
Ive grinded OFF the grooves from the face, and made it "groove less", but with a perfect flat face with some roughness from 80 grid grinding.
COG is moved UP to keep the ball flight down, and to avoid the ball from just rolling over the face. The pressure and compression to the ball made from this stiff shaft seems to replace all grip you normally gets from grooves. My own Golf Club pro was so amazed by it, he demand to borrow it before i tested it in my trackman to get some numbers of what this fellow actualy did, but both from sand and fairway, with water and mud on the face, spin is extreme, so there is more to it than grooves :-) This wedge is a 60* i have assembled with a True Temper Spinner PLUS, so there is no dynamic loft added, only pressure to the ball to make it compress more to get "bite" on the face, just like a wide race tire on a racing car.
Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:46 PM
Didn't want to sand off all the grooves so living with a few nicks.
Need to order up some stuff to protect it now.
Posted 07 April 2012 - 10:15 AM
Posted 12 May 2012 - 02:44 PM
Posted 28 July 2012 - 04:14 AM
Also interested in some recommendations for files for the face. Some of the ones I have work nicely, others don't.
Posted 28 July 2012 - 04:48 AM
- The OLD rules say that grooves must not be wider than 0.89 millimeter and not deeper than 0.5 mm
If you start out by making the face flat, you remove some dept from the grooves, but you can still make them wider than legal, so dont "overdo it"
- A FLAT face is more important than grooves from the fairway, so there is no reason to "overdo this".
Ive got a tool to measure both wide and dept to be sure im not making them illegal, but i have no idea if a tool like that is for sale any where
(i had them made especially for me from a tooling company - one for dept and one for wide)
I've got several questions about "spin milled" micro grooves, but never mind. NO micro grooves makes any difference to spin, before they are twice the legal size, so you dont need them at all. (read the USGA test who was done when the new rules was made, and you got the same answer)
The file must be FLAT, not concave or rounded in any way, and FINE grids.
Remember to CLEAN the file after a few strokes, to prevent fragments of steel to make scratches
Brush the file clean with a copper or brass brush, or simply "Spray it clean" by using WD40 or similar (spraying keep the file alive longer)
Edited by Howard Jones, 28 July 2012 - 04:50 AM.
Posted 28 July 2012 - 07:21 AM
Great to have your response. I'm an amateur weekend golfer - not worried about conforming grooves. What does interest me is exactly the best way to prepare the face. I haven't been using WD40 or any oil - just filing away with a flat file. I've been using a Neilsen diamond needle filing set CT1607 coated with 150 grit. Should I be using WD40 with these files? I've been filing diagonally as you say. Seems to come up nice.
I'm not sure about whether you want scratches or not - I thought the idea was to roughen up the smooth surface. Just how rough I'm not entirely clear. Maybe I have to research what different grit sizes do and work out what's best? Some guidance here welcome!
I'm not worried about the overall cosmetics - just the faces.
Edited by pmcuk, 28 July 2012 - 07:22 AM.
Posted 28 July 2012 - 01:23 PM
That reminds me - must get the hole in my trouser pocket fixed - balls keep falling down my inside leg....
Posted 11 September 2012 - 03:24 PM
TM Vsteel 4w
TM Hybrid 21.5*
Ping Eye 2 4-SW
Ping Anser 2
Yeah, I know that's only 12.
Posted 11 November 2012 - 11:08 PM
Posted 11 November 2012 - 11:57 PM
Thanks to you, i did not do it, you did :-)
- I never got to make my own web page to upload all this "DIY" stuff ive can show you how to do, but there will be some of it on my facebook side. At the moment its not much out there, but you will find photos of a PW iron with a bad damage who can be done by using a hammer and polish only. https://www.facebook.com/FoooreGolfLab
Its to bad when one of your irons get hurt this way, since a new head hardly is an option, so its nice to know a way to fix it, and now a hole lot of you folks have done it without any issues, and that conforms the fact that this is not voodoo, and it does not requires special tools or skills. Keep em coming, and tell others it can be done.