Anyone collect hickory shafted clubs?
#1
Posted 30 August 2009 - 01:35 PM
#2
Posted 30 August 2009 - 01:48 PM
http://www.hickorygo...s/gripscss.html
these links should help on restoration and playing the club
#3
Posted 30 August 2009 - 11:43 PM
The links to given by dlygrisse will give you some quick tips on restoration. They are also many other links from those pages you can check out.
Replacement grips can be obtained from Louisville Golf (http://www.louisvillegolf.com/product_info.php/cPath/53_79/products_id/305), from GolfWRX sponsor GripMaster grips (http://www.thegripmasterusa.com/leather_strapping1), or from Tad Moore (http://www.tommorrisclubs.com/clubdetails.php?cat_id=67).
Don't worry about breaking the shaft, they played golf with wood shafts for over 100 years. Test the shaft by giving it a little flex/bend every 90*, if you don't hear any creeks or cracks, the shaft should still be good.
#4
Posted 31 August 2009 - 07:27 AM
I didn't realize that there were groups that play these vintage clubs. That sounds like it would be a great experience. I'll test the shaft like you suggested. If it seems solid, I'm taking the club to the range. I've got to try it out at least once before hanging it on the wall.
I've got a feeling that this one impulse buy, is going to lead to a lot more time spent on ebay...
#6
Posted 06 November 2009 - 12:21 PM
Guia, on Nov 6 2009, 12:36 AM, said:
You most likely will not be allowed to play with those clubs. Most tournaments are for pre-1935 clubs or approved modern reproductions.
for equipment regulations and event schedule check out the Society of Hickory Golfers
#7
Posted 14 November 2009 - 10:36 PM
I'm going to put together a set of hickories, 8 or 9 clubs, and play a local muni that hosted the US Open in 1912. I already have a bag of hickories, but I am going to update from Louisville golf or Tad Moore, because my hickories are pre-1900, and I would like a set closer to 1930.
#8
Posted 18 December 2009 - 10:35 AM
Some observations - it took a couple of swings to find the center of the face, but then, no problem. The big problem is going to be that the thing wants to hook. I got a shaft between R and stiff; the stiffness isn't the problem as I frequencied it (just for the fun of it), and it is 300 cpm. I play my own driver and 3-wood at 250 cpm. So, torque must be the factor.
I tried hitting a fade with it. It is much easier to hit a controlled fade with a modern driver. Of course, it is much easier to hit a modern driver, period.
Sooner or later I'll find a swing that hits the ball straighter, but it is going to be an interesting exercise/process. First step, slow down the transition.
#9
Posted 18 December 2009 - 10:55 AM
Best wishes for a great 2010 golf season to my fellow hickories!
Bob





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