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* * * * * 3 votes

Grinding a wedge!!!!


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#61 joey3108

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 07:28 PM

View Postghudson, on Mar 23 2007, 02:43 PM, said:

Joe The old school Dial A Gram scale? Nice
I was assuming you are talking about Swingweight scale, wasn't it?


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#62 joey3108

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 01:59 AM

Here is the one i did for a player!

Refinished it w/ bead blast finish!

I'll add some more pics when i have time and found all the pics.

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  • Tommy__s_60__Small_.JPG


#63 lefty92

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 01:10 PM

View Postjoey3108, on Mar 31 2007, 11:59 PM, said:

Here is the one i did for a player!

Refinished it w/ bead blast finish!

I'll add some more pics when i have time and found all the pics.
Wow, awesome!

#64 joey3108

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 04:32 PM

THX!

Here are some more w/ M grind combine w/  P grind on it.

The P grind is act like a second bounce, It kicks the club up...thus it will lift the ball up and drop it soft on the green, especially out of the bunker. The M grind will still allow you to lay the club open from a tight lie. This combination grinds will allows the players to be a bit more aggressive from almost any lie.

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  • DSC02112__Small_.JPG
  • X_tour_grind_4.JPG


#65 lefty92

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 05:22 PM

View Postjoey3108, on Apr 1 2007, 02:32 PM, said:

THX!

Here are some more w/ M grind combine w/  P grind on it.

The P grind is act like a second bounce, It kicks the club up...thus it will lift the ball up and drop it soft on the green, especially out of the bunker. The M grind will still allow you to lay the club open from a tight lie. This combination grinds will allows the players to me a bit more agressive from almost any lie.
You got that from Solus wedges didn't you? :D
But honestly Joe, you are a machine!


#66 joey3108

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 05:56 PM

View Postgolfercody, on Apr 1 2007, 03:22 PM, said:

View Postjoey3108, on Apr 1 2007, 02:32 PM, said:

THX!

Here are some more w/ M grind combine w/  P grind on it.

The P grind is act like a second bounce, It kicks the club up...thus it will lift the ball up and drop it soft on the green, especially out of the bunker. The M grind will still allow you to lay the club open from a tight lie. This combination grinds will allows the players to me a bit more agressive from almost any lie.
You got that from Solus wedges didn't you? :D
But honestly Joe, you are a machine!
Well! Solus got it from Titty and who knows where titty got it from and so on.

All i know is from a guy who likes their worn out wedge but asking for a new groves not sole shape, so that is where the story came from long long time ago. Of course a little birdy told me that! :beach:

#67 lefty92

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 05:57 PM

Ahh, I see.  Well keep it up Joe. :D

#68 Dyno

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 07:39 PM

If I could grind like that, I'd never leave the house. :partytime2:

#69 joey3108

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Posted 19 July 2007 - 12:18 AM

View PostDyno, on Jun 2 2007, 05:39 PM, said:

If I could grind like that, I'd never leave the house. :cheesy:
You'll loose more hair !!! LMAO!

#70 tbc777

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Posted 28 July 2007 - 01:51 AM

hey master joey you are soooo right. you should see my shop. i clean it one day and in a matter of hours, then BAM just like magic it's dirty again... nice grind man.........


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#71 joey3108

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Posted 28 July 2007 - 01:48 PM

Are you back in town yet?

See, Finally some body agree on that one, i mean no one should touch our tools. :cheesy:

Chikara looks pretty good too Carl! :smilie_ping:

#72 Eye-O-Matic

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 01:35 AM

Not trying to step in on the discussion, but felt I can add a few things.

when grinding you will find that you need a softer surface than a hard grinding wheel, becuase the wheel is hard and can only take off in a limited area of the head, but with a belt sander (some do have additional pulleys) to give that extra effect like a rubber wheel you can remove more material faster.  But Joe may have solved the problem by going to a drill.

It's really easy, just find some old heads and grind away and you'll really pic up some knowledge fast.

I use a 1x42 and use a finishing belt which is the cheapest and best way I have found for getting a decent satin finish.

Also you can reshape the toes on some clubs, which to me is a must and why I started grinding myself, but the BV are the absolute best with their teardrop shape.

#73 Eye-O-Matic

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 08:43 PM

Hey all-
Golfworks does sell a cool attachment for a grinder but for a littel less someone can use this...

Expander Wheel

http://www.eastwoodc...m_mmc=undefined

this may be good for alot less

#74 rgjusa

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 04:06 AM

View PostEye-O-Matic, on Sep 23 2007, 02:43 AM, said:

Hey all-
Golfworks does sell a cool attachment for a grinder but for a littel less someone can use this...

Expander Wheel

http://www.eastwoodc...m_mmc=undefined

this may be good for alot less

I am not knocking it as I have not tried it, but the RPM may be a limiting factor. The multitool attachments can be had for a lot less than GW/GS sell them for. This is very good:

Multitool

#75 UNC41

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Posted 28 September 2007 - 08:19 PM

Joe, that combo P and M grind looks awesome. Do you have a website because I would love to send you my 58* this winter?


#76 joey3108

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Posted 28 September 2007 - 11:52 PM

View PostUNC41, on Sep 28 2007, 06:19 PM, said:

Joe, that combo P and M grind looks awesome. Do you have a website because I would love to send you my 58* this winter?
YOu can just send me an email to jwk.golf@gmail.com

JOe

#77 cdnputter

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 03:05 PM

Joe,

Thanks for sharing your insight and experience, very very helpful.

I'm curious though, in the pics you were applying a M grind?  For a P grind do you use a different wheel in your drill?  Or just change the angle of the clubhead and use the edge of the wheel?

Cheers!

#78 binneguru

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 03:08 PM

I have a delta grinder/sander with a big rubber wheel on the front. It works great. I also have the expanding rubber thing with the loop of sandpaper that goes on it. That works great as well.

I dabbled in grinding wedges for a while, so all this stuff is wasting away in the shed :russian_roulette:

#79 joey3108

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 12:46 AM

View Postcdnputter, on Dec 7 2007, 12:05 PM, said:

Joe,

Thanks for sharing your insight and experience, very very helpful.

I'm curious though, in the pics you were applying a M grind?  For a P grind do you use a different wheel in your drill?  Or just change the angle of the clubhead and use the edge of the wheel?

Cheers!
YES on the edge of the wheel for Initial cut to a certain size, depth and lenght that i will end up with later.

Drum sander is the wheel i used to shape it like an elongated tear drop. The angle of the tear drop are critical on the club reaction when hit. Lots of checking and testing on my front lawn. LOL!

I'm still trying to improve and finding a way to make them easier and more consistent without sacrificing finish quality, in fact trying to improve too if possible. Those are basically my charracter in everything i do in live, it's about improving them. :russian_roulette:

#80 Clubtuner

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 08:20 AM

Joe, I know this may sound a bit primitive, but have you ever shaped them by hand with files?
I do a fair amount of grinding myself, and I find that I can really sculpt and shape the wedge
that way. Then finish it using a couple of different wheels and belts, depending on the finish
one requests.


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#81 joey3108

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 01:14 PM

Those are probably 15 years ago when i don't have all the right machine yet to invest. I'm even thinking of going to the next level investing a better machine. I found a few that are just amazing but still requires hand skill and good eyes. I really have to be honest, Artistic sense and technicallity on how to play it are very big in this wedge grinding or shaping IMO. Just grinding only is easy but grinds that works are not IMO!

Joe

#82 LimestoneGolfer1

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 11:46 AM

dont know anything on this topic but was wondering what all does grinding do to your wedge, does it just remove some bounce from the club

#83 phat2na

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Posted 01 January 2008 - 01:50 PM

Thanks for the pics, always wanted to grind'em down.

This will come in handy.

#84 Mookie91

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 01:31 PM

Joe

My Cleveland 588 leading edge is somewhat rounded while my Hogan is pretty much a straight line is there any grinding that will get the Hogan closer to a rounded look.  I have always liked an open look on all my clubs and the only way to achieve that now is addressing the ball with the heel off the ground but it corrects on the way down resulting in a pull.  Plus the bounce is only 6 degrees so it would be nice to have the M grind to be able to play different shots.  Let me know what you think when you can.  I also sent you a less detailed e-mail.  Thanks for your time and have a great day.

Matt Bacon
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#85 joey3108

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 03:13 PM

View PostMookie91, on Feb 3 2008, 10:31 AM, said:

Joe

My Cleveland 588 leading edge is somewhat rounded while my Hogan is pretty much a straight line is there any grinding that will get the Hogan closer to a rounded look.  I have always liked an open look on all my clubs and the only way to achieve that now is addressing the ball with the heel off the ground but it corrects on the way down resulting in a pull.  Plus the bounce is only 6 degrees so it would be nice to have the M grind to be able to play different shots.  Let me know what you think when you can.  I also sent you a less detailed e-mail.  Thanks for your time and have a great day.

Matt Bacon
You can make the leading edge blunted or beveled and at the same time rise a bit of the bounce by grinding the front part of the bounce. However, you'll create a little off set look that way.


#86 Fanatic

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 12:15 PM

Joe,

Thanks for the pictures and information.  That was great.  Just a quick question.  Do you measure the bounce before and after grinding?  I know you weigh the head before and after, but what about the bounce?  Is there a limit in terms of how much weight to remove for certain grinds, or is it all by look and feel?

I want to grind my own wedges and Im not one to take deep divots.  I want a grind that will enable me to open up the club face without having my leading edge coming off the ground.  Would the m grind suffice?  Do you grind the trailing edge as well when doing an M grind?

What other grinds are out there (aside from M (same as C?) and P) and if you could explain a little about each one, that would be great!

Thanks!!!!

#87 Mookie91

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Posted 18 February 2008 - 08:27 PM

Just saw the Chikara wedge, is there any way to get that 5 way cut sole on a OEM wedge?
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#88 chipinoneputt

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 02:36 PM

How to make that P-grind?

Can someone explain/show?

#89 joey3108

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Posted 26 February 2008 - 01:02 PM

Fanatic,
How precise you need them to be? 1* of bounce will not gonna feel that much different for average Joe Golfer. Of course I could measure them before and after, but i'm more of a feel grinder by looking how it lay on the ground to get the right look at set up possition and then measure it if I need to grind some more accordingly.

You might want to do some SEARCH for what grind for what type of play. I've posted quite a bit before. Or check on some of OEM site for they wedge grind explanation.

Mookie91,
There is always a way as long as you start with the right amount of bounce initially.


Chipinoneputt,
Every artists ( that is what i call them for master grinder :D ) are different and have their own way to manipulate their tools and how to use them. The right tools will make the job easier for sure.

#90 ragu421

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Posted 14 April 2008 - 06:15 PM

Wow! That 60* Vokey looks great. What grind do you call that and what would you charge me to do my SW and LW?They are forged Sonartec's and Im afraid Ill ruin them but would like a little more versatility as far as manipulating the club head.Is there a finish or something you spray or dip in order to keep from rusting?Im not a big fan of the "raw" wedges except for the reduced glare.I kinda dig the satin or tour chrome look even though you still get some glare.
Thanks very much!


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