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Grinding a wedge!!!!


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#211 joey3108

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 03:04 PM

Well, look is a personal taste! Minimal effect IMO.

Lead tape is good but ugly IMO and will be a tons of them if you have to bring back more than 6 gr.

Tungsten ingots at the right spots another way adding weights.

Joe


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#212 ikas70

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 07:42 PM

View Postjoey3108, on 24 August 2012 - 11:35 AM, said:

View Postikas70, on 21 July 2012 - 10:01 PM, said:

Joe, how many different grinding wheels do you utilize and what grit? I just got done setting up my home based shope (mainly for my own use) and have 2 bench grinders, one 6 inch and the other 8, and a 4x36 belt grinder. The 8 inch has an older golfsmith or golfworks deburring wheel thats on its last legs. What would your suggestions be for replacements, thanks.
I wouldn't worry to much if you are only grinding for your own use.

Even finishing it with 100-120 grid will play just fine.

Wedge are about understanding your wedge game style and match it with the grind shape and bounce angle. Finish will be last on the list in your case IMO.

Btw, Most people don't even have half of the tour players skill on how to play their wedges. The creativity of tour players are just amazing, especially top 10 rank players.

What I can tell you, they are all knows how to utilize their bounce angle to their advantage to get it up and down from almost any corners. The creativity even better after the rule to have a conforming grooves.

So think more on how are you gonna grind it, then worry about the finish later.

Joe

Thanks for the info Joe. Great to see the different styles and info about it.

#213 BILLYMALOOLY

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 04:51 PM

What is a P Channel for ?
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#214 tyler-49

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 12:42 AM

how will i know how to get the swing weight back to standard after i grind it. and how do you know where to put the tungsten or lead tape? thanks.

#215 Howard Jones

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 09:16 PM

View PostBILLYMALOOLY, on 11 January 2013 - 04:51 PM, said:

What is a P Channel for ?

http://www.vokey.com...our-grinds.aspx

Go down on the page and look a P-Grind
- The sole got a "channel" heel to toe that splits the sole in 2


#216 Howard Jones

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 09:21 PM

View Posttyler-49, on 14 January 2013 - 12:42 AM, said:

how will i know how to get the swing weight back to standard after i grind it. and how do you know where to put the tungsten or lead tape? thanks.

Put the club on a scale before you start, and again when done, and you will now how much to replace, how hard can that be ?
- Lead tape is about 2 grams for 4 inch, so its limited how much lead tape you will find location for, so "where" is not a issue at all, its how much do you need to replace, and can that be done at all ?

A grinding job costs 2 - 25 grams and i have no idea of what you plan on doing.
Tip weights or tungsten powder down the shaft is the way to go for weight re-set, not lead tape, thats only for minor adjustments

Edited by Howard Jones, 14 January 2013 - 09:21 PM.


#217 tyler-49

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 12:49 AM

uhhh i already ground it, its a vokey sm4 60-07 if anyone has a stock one and wouldn't mind weighing it that would be nice. or if they have a cg-15 52-10 could the weigh that also.

#218 PreppySlapCut

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 02:00 PM

I finally figured out how to get the wedge that no one makes. I've taken a relatively high bounce Vokey, bent it a degree weak, killed the leading edge, and relieved the heel.

Really gives the digger a wedge that skips and shallows out.
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#219 swizbeatz

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 02:03 PM

Pics!
Ping/Epon/Scratch/Bettinardi
WITB Link

#220 Coheed

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 09:33 PM

View PostPreppySlapCut, on 05 February 2013 - 02:00 PM, said:

I finally figured out how to get the wedge that no one makes. I've taken a relatively high bounce Vokey, bent it a degree weak, killed the leading edge, and relieved the heel.

Really gives the digger a wedge that skips and shallows out.

I'd really like to see a picture of that!


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#221 PreppySlapCut

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 12:05 PM

I'll shoot a pic when I get back from the course today.  It's not that different looking, very subtle but if you know what you're looking for its a nice upgrade.  We also have a nice finishing wheel in my club room so it's really easy to blend and make the grind look factory stock.
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#222 DoubleEagleAt12

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 01:48 PM

joe you seen those new yuri wedges where the grind down the leading edge alittle? they also have an unusual heel relief grind or backwards M is what it looks like to me. once i get off work i am going to give it a shot on some old wedges.

#223 Upgrayedd

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:43 PM

I took the medium bounce out of my wedges. I used a bench grinder on one about ten years ago. Crude, but effective. After reading this thread I used a 4 x 24 belt sander for the heavy work and an emory cloth and elbow grease for the finishing touches. They look a lot better than my first effort. I will finish buffing them out on the course ;-)Posted Image
Here on central Oklahoma public courses I like a no bounce wedge about 95% of the time because of tight lies. Many people who play the courses with high bounce wedges blade a percentage of their wedge shots never knowing why. Also anything even slightly fat is severely penalized distance-wise. Thanks to all.

Edited by Upgrayedd, 16 March 2013 - 03:51 PM.


#224 veebs007x

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 10:47 PM

i split my time between playing professionally and working part time at Kepler's Golf Repair in Walnut Creek, CA near San Francisco. The last couple years I have gotten into grinding wedges as I am very particular about my own. I feel I have gotten fairly good at it and thought I'd share my work from today. Maybe I will continue to post some of my future creations.
Here are a couple Cleveland wedges in 56 and 60 degree lofts. I gave the 60 a full C grind...enough to lay it wide open without taking away the entire back edge for bunker play and maintaining some initial bounce for squared up shots from the fairway...the 56 has a similar grind but slightly different as you can see since the 56 wont be opened all the way typically

Thanks for looking!

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#225 Upgrayedd

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 06:46 PM

Those look really good veebs. I see you used lead tape on one. I plan to fill the voids in the back of mine with lead bird shot mixed with black epoxy. Posted ImageWill post the results.

Edited by Upgrayedd, 19 March 2013 - 07:22 PM.


#226 Northeaster

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 11:14 AM

Can this be done with a small handheld grinder instead of a bench grinder?

#227 dtrain5555

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Posted 05 April 2013 - 02:30 PM

View Postholein3, on 25 March 2013 - 11:14 AM, said:

Can this be done with a small handheld grinder instead of a bench grinder?

Yes. I have experimented on old clubs since I got scratch wedges. The other wedges have definately performed better. I used a normal belt grinder first. Then I used a handheld grinder to make a more precise grind. Then I took a belt sander and touched up the grinds. It was a fun experiment with some old wedges.

#228 GolfersView

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 12:40 AM

View Postveebs007x, on 18 March 2013 - 10:47 PM, said:

i split my time between playing professionally and working part time at Kepler's Golf Repair in Walnut Creek, CA near San Francisco. The last couple years I have gotten into grinding wedges as I am very particular about my own. I feel I have gotten fairly good at it and thought I'd share my work from today. Maybe I will continue to post some of my future creations.
Here are a couple Cleveland wedges in 56 and 60 degree lofts. I gave the 60 a full C grind...enough to lay it wide open without taking away the entire back edge for bunker play and maintaining some initial bounce for squared up shots from the fairway...the 56 has a similar grind but slightly different as you can see since the 56 wont be opened all the way typically

Thanks for looking!

Man, those things are beautiful. Very well done.

#229 Northeaster

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 12:26 PM

View Postdtrain5555, on 05 April 2013 - 02:30 PM, said:

View Postholein3, on 25 March 2013 - 11:14 AM, said:

Can this be done with a small handheld grinder instead of a bench grinder?

Yes. I have experimented on old clubs since I got scratch wedges. The other wedges have definately performed better. I used a normal belt grinder first. Then I used a handheld grinder to make a more precise grind. Then I took a belt sander and touched up the grinds. It was a fun experiment with some old wedges.

Cool, thanks.  I don't have a belt grinder, but I do have a handheld grinder and a belt sander so we will see how far that will get me.  Thanks again.

#230 cmetz777

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 08:24 PM

cant wait to try one of these days


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#231 Howard Jones

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Posted 25 April 2013 - 05:44 PM

...a customer of mine took this short video where im grinding the P Channel on a raw Scratch 8620
(sorry about the language, it was not ment for use outside DK)



...part 2. ...change of leading edge, added heel and toe grind

Edited by Howard Jones, 26 April 2013 - 04:20 AM.


#232 JonBon

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 07:09 PM

Great input.  I have messes around with the grinding wheel a touch and need to get my hands on a belt sander.  The grinding wheel leaves something to be desired in a finished look.

#233 crawdaddygolf

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 08:31 AM

Does anyone use the Malby gauge to check the "effective bounce" on  wedges?  Any thoughts?

#234 joey3108

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 10:26 AM

Bare in mind, the same bounce angle measurement will play different depending the type of grind shape (m, c or v or etc.). So bounce angle alone can't be the factor to get a good grind.

Joe

#235 Ultimate Gaj

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Posted 09 July 2013 - 03:38 AM

Hi Joe,
          could you tell what it would be like if you grinded a copper wedge? The reason i'm asking is because I just brought a Epon 58* Wedge and I was wanting to have a bit of toe relief so it sits closer to the ground when the face is open but i'm not sure if the finish will come off as it would look a bit scruffy just having one bare patch.
Cheers
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#236 rbhan12

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Posted 14 July 2013 - 04:02 PM

need to do the same to my wedges
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#237 golferday

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Posted 16 July 2013 - 01:03 PM

Anyway I could do this cheap or for free?

#238 joey3108

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Posted 22 July 2013 - 09:17 PM

View PostUltimate Gaj, on 09 July 2013 - 03:38 AM, said:

Hi Joe,
  could you tell what it would be like if you grinded a copper wedge? The reason i'm asking is because I just brought a Epon 58* Wedge and I was wanting to have a bit of toe relief so it sits closer to the ground when the face is open but i'm not sure if the finish will come off as it would look a bit scruffy just having one bare patch.
Cheers
Sam
I personally would not do copper or any metal has beryllium in it...If You do, just make sure for personal use with all kind of protection.

Toxic dust!

#239 Ultimate Gaj

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Posted 26 July 2013 - 11:24 AM

View Postjoey3108, on 22 July 2013 - 09:17 PM, said:

View PostUltimate Gaj, on 09 July 2013 - 03:38 AM, said:

Hi Joe,
  could you tell what it would be like if you grinded a copper wedge? The reason i'm asking is because I just brought a Epon 58* Wedge and I was wanting to have a bit of toe relief so it sits closer to the ground when the face is open but i'm not sure if the finish will come off as it would look a bit scruffy just having one bare patch.
Cheers
Sam
I personally would not do copper or any metal has beryllium in it...If You do, just make sure for personal use with all kind of protection.

Toxic dust!
Cheers Joe for responding I decided to do it in the end. It does look a bit weird with just a random grinded patch but if it helps your game! :dntknw:

Edited by Ultimate Gaj, 26 July 2013 - 11:24 AM.

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#240 David C

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 11:15 AM

Hi, I've got a great grind on my 60 degree Cleveland 588. Two things annoying me and if anyone can help I'd be very grateful.
1. The heel is ground and about 1.75" from the hosel off the trail edge. Really good when hitting sliders, flops off tight lies etc. But is it me or when hitting a slowish paced pitch is my club sliding way open through the ball is the lack of bounce slipping the club open? Or does anyone think it is my technique? It doesn't happen on every shot but becoming frequent. No probs with a non ground wedge. What's the solution? Lead tape? Weight on toes more? Taken off too much metal and club ruined?
2. My clubs have a satin finish, the grind has made it shiny and blackened after use. Any ideas to restore maintain finish?
Thanks


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