Anyone use a 3-wood instead of driver?
Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:27 AM
Now, my driving is 100% better, I rarely spray it, and I'm playing longer courses, so it would probably hurt me to NEVER hit a driver. That said, I pick and choose the battles.
Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:46 AM
Cheers from up here! Turbs
Posted 08 August 2008 - 07:50 AM
I "bagged" my driver for almost two years and even stopped carrying it, using ONLY my 3wood or 5wood to tee off with. I was fighting a wicked slice. I kept getting in trouble off the tee. Every hole with driver was the same. Hit LONG (many over 300 yards) but sprayed everywhere. Second shot was always the beginning of scrambling. Hard to score that way. I always heard that if you have a decent approach game and short game (not spectacular but not bad either), then if you can drive the ball at least 220 yards and NOT be in trouble you can break 90 on most courses. That proved true for me. Keeping the ball OUT OF TROUBLE definitely lowers your score to a point.
A year ago, my son got me the Medicus hinged driver and it cured my slice in 15 minutes! It is not for everyone though. If you can take the club back slow, on a single plane and then return on a single plane or slightly below the swing plane, then the Medicus works great. It does not work for all swings, but definitely teaches you that one. MY son hits long and straight but has a quick tempo and cannot use the Medicus. We decided to leave well eneough alone and not mess with his swing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Anyway, my driver made a triumphant return and I am now know for hitting long and straight.However, on any given day, I will start rushing (or a miriad of other things), my driver will start getting shakey, and when it does, it stays in the bag and I use a 3wood or 5wood to drive with.
Always remember; on any given shot, hit the right club for distance unless you can't control it, and if you can't, back down to the longest club you can control. Work out issues at the driving range, not on the course. That definately saves strokes! However, ego being what is is, makes it hard to do that!
Posted 08 August 2008 - 11:11 AM
irons 23 - 41*
wedges 45, 50, 54, 60*
Tom Slighter Needle mallet since 2008
73* lie, 3* loft, 451g headweight
Posted 08 August 2008 - 11:15 AM
I also use my 3-wood instead of driver off the deck for a long approach (generally only on par 5s as most par 4s I am hitting mid iron or less in)
TE Exotics CB2 3w 15 degree Proforce V2
Mizuno JPX 825 19 deg Hybrid fujikura s
Ping i20 blue dot, Rifle Project X 5.5
Cleveland RTX 588 56 degree, Rotex 2.0
Ping Anser 2i isopur
Posted 08 August 2008 - 12:45 PM
Posted 08 August 2008 - 06:35 PM
Posted 13 August 2008 - 02:10 PM
This is what I'm thinking...those TEE fairways are amazing!
Posted 13 August 2008 - 03:03 PM
I did pull driver once today though and carried it 280 (far for me) and straight, I think the 4 wood summer regime helped me figure out a better driver swing.
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 03:39 PM
If its a hole with a nice, wide fairway I will take a rip at it with the driver, but if I need accuracy, its 3-wood or the 21* hybrid every time.
Posted 13 August 2008 - 11:50 PM
Posted 14 August 2008 - 07:01 AM
Take your typical 425 yard dogleg par 4. In my area, every course has at least two of these tree-lined holes from the tips with a moderate to severe dog leg at around 250 - 275 yards. Usually there is a particular zone, somewhere around 260 - 270 yards from the tee, usually on the side opposite the dogleg that you must place your ball into. For some, this is perfect driver length. For me, I would have to hit a knock-down or chip driver into this spot...which under pressure I tend to screw up and guide. Hence, IF I simply rip a 3-wood my ideal shot lands right in the target zone and sits down right next to its ball mark. Granted, I might have attempted to hit a cut or a drawn driver around the bend (or maybe flown a tree on a corner), but more often than not, the risk and reward do not match up. If I hit the hard shaped driver and it ends up going straight, well that's death. If I shape it too much, that's further trouble. If I double cross, well that's an X.
On the final hole of a tourney last week I did the opposite of what I'm preaching above. I had a 420 yard dogleg left hole with a wide open landing zone at 260 yards off the tee. Trouble started at 270 straight away. There was a corner that could be cut easily, but you had to hit a hard draw with a driver. I was striping the driver all day. I was feeling cocky (was one under going into 18) and really confident that I could hit the shot. I did all the proper setup and routines to hit the proper shot. Then my mind said, "don't over draw this...that's trouble." Instead of stepping off and re-thinking the shot, I went ahead. I made a protective swing against the big hook, and hit is dead straight down the left side of the fairway. Flew into the right rough and scooted behind a huge tree. A punch out backwards and a couple shots later, I'm the alternate instead of the qualifier. If I had simply played the 3-wood to the target zone I'd be out practicing today preparing for a national amateur instead of hoping some guy gets a last minute business trip and has to withdraw so I can go...
Posted 14 August 2008 - 07:52 AM
Long and straight ...
Posted 14 August 2008 - 12:33 PM
Fairways: Wishon 949MC 16.5*/21.5* (Matrix Ozik Code 7.1 R - 41.5"/40.5")
Hybrid: Wishon 775HS 24* (KBS 90 Satin R - 37.5")
Irons: Wishon 870TI 5-AW (KBS 90 Satin R - 37"-35")
Wedges: Wishon PCF Micro Tour 56*/WS 60* (KBS 90 Satin R - 35")
Putter: Wishon S2R-1 (Superstroke 1.0 Black/Silver - 33")
Golf Ball: Maxfli Softfli
WITB page coming soon!
Posted 14 August 2008 - 01:12 PM
thinking about a 13*.
Posted 14 August 2008 - 07:30 PM
Posted 02 September 2008 - 12:50 PM
I thought I would be hurting for distance since I played from 6600 yards and I max out at around 220 with a three wood. That fear proved to be unfounded because on several holes I was hitting from the same spot as I would have been if I had hit the driver. What I find really telling is that I usually play from 5800 yards, not 6600. I knew my slice with the driver was eating into the distance but I didn't realize it was that bad. There were a couple holes where I was 20 to 30 yards further back than where I normally am, but that's not bad considering I was playing from 6600 instead of 5800 yards.
Playing with the three wood really put a finger on just how poorly I was hitting the driver. With the three wood I was able to keep the ball in the fairway instead of slicing it into the woods and having to chip out. It was so nice to just be able to swing a away and watch the ball go soaring straight ahead and land in the center of the fairway. With the driver, when I just swing away the ball goes soaring straight into the woods.
Thinking about it some more, what really made the three wood experiment work is the improvement in my iron game. I've been taking lessons and my ability to hit my irons is much better than what it was a few months ago. So much so that my new favorite club is my 5i instead of my PW. Even my 3i is starting to get some love nowadays.
Posted 03 September 2008 - 07:56 PM
On most courses I play it is more important to be in play off the tee. I think someone else mentioned playing the hole backwards and that is HUGE for me. You can really map out your strategy using this technique.
Posted 04 September 2008 - 03:21 AM
Edited by avrag, 04 September 2008 - 03:22 AM.
Posted 04 September 2008 - 10:28 AM
Posted 04 September 2008 - 11:04 AM
when i play with my regular group we play the signs ( one step from the tips) and i only hit driver 3-4 holes.. the rest i hit 3wd.. which off the tee goes about 240-250
Posted 04 September 2008 - 12:29 PM
Exactly. It's a game management plan. Figure out what yardages you can reliably hit and from the tee hit clubs that will leave you that many yards out. For example, if you can reliably hit a 7i 150 yards and the hole is 380 yards, off the tee you would hit a club that would go 230 yards so you that you are at 150 yards out for your approach shot. You wouldn't bomb a drive 300 yards because then you have to hit a partial wedge for 80 yards. While you could do that, it probably isn't as consistent as the full swing 7i.
Edited by jjj912, 04 September 2008 - 12:30 PM.
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