Jump to content

Welcome. You are currently viewing the forum as a guest which does not give you access to all the great features at GolfWRX such as viewing all the images, interacting with members, access to all forums and eligiblility to win free giveaways. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free. Create a FREE GolfWRX account here.

- - - - -

Shaft removal for a novice


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 mubob1977

mubob1977

    Member

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 101 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 87542
  • Joined: 07/06/2009
  • Location:Towson, MD
  • Handicap:3
GolfWRX Likes : 24

Posted 12 January 2019 - 10:39 PM

Iím starting the process of refurbishing some persimmons. Iím starting first with a cheap driver so I can learn how to do it before moving on to the woods I do care about getting right.

So my question is this ó the club Iím starting with has obviously been reshafted at some point. Iíd like to remove that shaft (it looks like a fairly new S300 with a good leather grip). But Iím guessing the shaft was epoxied to the head. Whatís the best way to break the bond of that epoxy? Too much heat on the hosel will melt the poly and burn the wood, wonít it?

Any tips for a novice would be much appreciated.


Remove This Advertisement Viewing As Guest

    GolfWRX Forums

    Advertisement


1

#2 deejaid

deejaid

    Advanced

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 292 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 15717
  • Joined: 06/26/2006
GolfWRX Likes : 386

Posted 13 January 2019 - 01:51 AM

You’ll need to heat the shaft from the inside.  If the shaft continues all the way out the bottom of the club, you drill out the plug in the shaft, heat up an old screwdriver with a torch and stick it inside the shaft.   It will heat up the epoxy and the head will then come loose.

If the shaft doesn’t extend out the bottom, then it is a bit tougher.  You’ll need to remove the grip and heat up  a much longer rod with the torch and go in from the grip end.  The Golfworks still sells these rods.

https://www.golfwork...ng-rod/p/hrd48/

Take your time and don’t be too rough removing the head to avoid cracks in the neck.

Good luck!
In the bag...

Macgregor Toney Penna Super Eye-O-Matic driver
Macgregor M85 Super Eye-O-Matic 3 & 4 woods
Cleveland Classic TC 15 5-wood
Hogan Precision irons  TT Rocket shafts 3-E
Hogan Sand Iron
H&B Grand Slam Mars 70 putter

2

#3 James the Hogan Fan

James the Hogan Fan

    Member

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 157 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 515886
  • Joined: 11/06/2018
  • Location:Helsinki, Finland
  • Handicap:12
GolfWRX Likes : 147

Posted 13 January 2019 - 02:08 AM

Also, you likely already know this, but there are probably screws through the head that hold the shaft in, usually one at the base of the neck and one through the sole (if bore-through). These screws can be... stubborn and often have to be drilled out.
Just so you donít try to yank out the shaft and break something because a retaining screw is still in it.
Golfing in Finland
Driver: Titleist 908 D2 (9.5)
3 wood: Cleveland hi-Bore (15)
2hi: Callaway BB Diablo (18)
Irons 3-E Hogan Apex Edge Pro/Apex 4 +5/8Ē
Wedges: Titleist 5612 and Iron Nelson prototype 59į
Putter: Macgregor Autograph Jackie Pung

3

#4 mubob1977

mubob1977

    Member

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 101 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 87542
  • Joined: 07/06/2009
  • Location:Towson, MD
  • Handicap:3
GolfWRX Likes : 24

Posted 13 January 2019 - 09:04 AM

Thanks for the tips! I had to drill out the neck screw and drilled through the sole to the shaft. Now I need a torch. I have a heat gun, but I’m guessin* a torch is the better tool to have. Also good to know about the heating rod.

Thanks again!

4

#5 Socrates

Socrates

    How can it be so *&#% hard to make a shoulder turn?

  • Advanced Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,981 posts
  •  
  • Member #: 60534
  • Joined: 07/15/2008
  • Location:Winnipeg
  • Handicap:4ish
GolfWRX Likes : 3991

Posted 13 January 2019 - 10:48 AM

View Postmubob1977, on 13 January 2019 - 09:04 AM, said:

Thanks for the tips! I had to drill out the neck screw and drilled through the sole to the shaft. Now I need a torch. I have a heat gun, but I’m guessin* a torch is the better tool to have. Also good to know about the heating rod.

Thanks again!
Unless you were able to remove the entire screw from the head, you likely will not be able to re-insert a new screw because the broken tip will block the new screw.  Also, since you drilled out the screw, the tip of the screw is likely still not only in the head but also within the wall of the shaft.  When you try to remove the shaft you will be impeded by this.  

You can try and twist the shaft and it might break free and maybe bring the tip of the screw with it or you may find that you have to take a nail set and drive the remaining screw into the head.  They used to sell a specific tool for this but a cut off nail of the right size will work.

These threads bring all the bad memories of working with wood heads back to the surface.  I absolutely hated all the little screws and one little slip up with a screwdriver or a screw breaking off could turn a simple repair into a time consuming nightmare.

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"
Jazz Bear Cat 3 wd Aerotech Stiff
Ping i20 3 Hyb 707H Stiff
X2 Hot 4_-PW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc
Ping ES 56º and ES 60º
Scotty X7M Dual 38"
MCC Align Midsize

5



0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

GolfWRX Sponsors