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Do what Works or Keep it Original?


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14 replies to this topic

#1 baloo

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 05:11 PM

When it comes to classic gear, which side are you on?

For me, it's all about function and I'll do anything to a club I think might help. Lead tape, new grips and shafts, you name it. I don't spend too much time getting them pretty.

This year I've put Jumbo Max grips on some vintage clubs. Feels almost blasphemous, but I have to do it if I think it will help...

On the other hand, some folks want original shafts and grips and maybe a nice restoration. There's a place for both, but I've never been in this camp.

Driver, 3W, 4W - Macgregor Custom Tourney
2-10 - 1954 Spalding Synchro Dyned
SW - Wilson Staff
Putter - Bullseye
Ball - Pro Plus

YT Channel - https://www.youtube....PlayVintageGolf

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#2 NRJyzr

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 05:46 PM

I'm with you.  I'm not much for display pieces at this point in my life, so a club does little good if it's not playable.  I've reshafted, regripped, lead taped, extended, cut down, etc, to get clubs playable for me.
The Ever Changing Bag!

Driver:  Cobra King LTD, ProtoPype 80x or RIP 80x, 43.5" -or- SuperDeep 9.5*, ProtoPype 80x or NV85x, 43.5"
3w:  Cobra King LTD, Motore F1 85 X, 42.5"
1 iron:  Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
2-PW, Golden Ram Tour Grind, Dynamic S
SW:  Acer XB 58*, DGS300 tipped
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34.5", PP58 midsize grip
(Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35" -or- Mizuno TPM-2, 35" as backups)
Balls:  in no particular order...  Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV
   will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time
Shoes by True Linkswear

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#3 James the Hogan Fan

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 06:34 PM

Depends on the purpose of the club, but for me everything must be hypothetically playable at the end of the day. Mint Hogan Personal irons with original shafts and grips wouldn’t see much play, but I would still feel weird about them if they had an L flex shaft in them. Same with the wilson PW I mutilated the ferrule on; it needs a new ferrule and if that means cutting off and boring out the shaft, regrettably so be it.

That said, I have a really hard time replacing grips on old clubs because they look so cool...
Golfing in Finland
Driver: Titleist 908 D2 (9.5)
3 wood: Cleveland hi-Bore (15)
2hi: Callaway BB Diablo (18)
Irons 3-E Hogan Apex Edge Pro/Apex 4 +5/8”
Wedges: Titleist 5612 and Iron Nelson prototype 59°
Putter: Macgregor Autograph Jackie Pung

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#4 Davewn

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 09:26 AM

It seems like very few classic clubs are rare or valuable enough to be concerned with maintaining originality.  Do what you need to do to make them playable, "tools, not jewels" as it were.
Callaway RAZR Fit 10.5* Matrix Radix HD 6S
Golfsmith HiCor Plus 400cc 13.5* Matrix VLCT-SP 70S
Innovex RLS 17* 4 wood ProLaunch Blue 65S
Orlimar Black Ti 22* 4 Hybrid Litespeed R
Adams A7 5-GW UST Proforce 85R
Golfsmith/Spalding Cash-In SW 55/12 Cleveland Action Lite S
Copper Classic I BeCu 60* SW Kunnan K91 Boron or Cleveland TA 900 60* Nicklaus Driveshaft R
Slotline Inertial 35"

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#5 augustgolf

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 09:35 AM

Most of these classic/vintage clubs were clubs that were played in my younger days.

I had no problem "modifying" them then, so no problem doing so today.

Pings from the beginning

OGA member 1415
or is it 1514...
I don't remember exactly

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#6 NRJyzr

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 12:49 PM

View PostNRJyzr, on 04 January 2019 - 05:46 PM, said:

I'm with you.  I'm not much for display pieces at this point in my life, so a club does little good if it's not playable.  I've reshafted, regripped, lead taped, extended, cut down, etc, to get clubs playable for me.


Thought I'd add a bit of background to the above...

I'm only very slightly above average height, around six feet tall.  However, I have shorter than average length arms.  These two together have me requiring upright lie angles in my irons.  What fits me is a 63* lie in my 5 iron, using my Golden Rams.  

This is part of why I slowed down on classic club acquisition.  It's not too far into the past where everything would be short and very flat for me.
The Ever Changing Bag!

Driver:  Cobra King LTD, ProtoPype 80x or RIP 80x, 43.5" -or- SuperDeep 9.5*, ProtoPype 80x or NV85x, 43.5"
3w:  Cobra King LTD, Motore F1 85 X, 42.5"
1 iron:  Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
2-PW, Golden Ram Tour Grind, Dynamic S
SW:  Acer XB 58*, DGS300 tipped
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34.5", PP58 midsize grip
(Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35" -or- Mizuno TPM-2, 35" as backups)
Balls:  in no particular order...  Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV
   will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time
Shoes by True Linkswear

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#7 baloo

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 02:22 PM

View PostNRJyzr, on 05 January 2019 - 12:49 PM, said:

View PostNRJyzr, on 04 January 2019 - 05:46 PM, said:

I'm with you.  I'm not much for display pieces at this point in my life, so a club does little good if it's not playable.  I've reshafted, regripped, lead taped, extended, cut down, etc, to get clubs playable for me.


Thought I'd add a bit of background to the above...

I'm only very slightly above average height, around six feet tall.  However, I have shorter than average length arms.  These two together have me requiring upright lie angles in my irons.  What fits me is a 63* lie in my 5 iron, using my Golden Rams.  

This is part of why I slowed down on classic club acquisition.  It's not too far into the past where everything would be short and very flat for me.

I've slowed down because I have to modify the clubs a decent amount as well. I'm the opposite of you though, I play all my stuff 2-3 degrees flat despite being 6'3".
Driver, 3W, 4W - Macgregor Custom Tourney
2-10 - 1954 Spalding Synchro Dyned
SW - Wilson Staff
Putter - Bullseye
Ball - Pro Plus

YT Channel - https://www.youtube....PlayVintageGolf

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#8 deejaid

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 03:19 PM

I believe you should do whatever is needed to make a club playable.   When building classic clubs I use leather grips when I can afford it, but a black classic looking Golf Pride works well too.   Now, I wouldn’t put a lime green Pure grip on a classic persimmon wood :D

If it isn’t a historic club used by a famous golfer, like Hogan’s 1-iron, do whatever it takes to get it back on the course.

Edited by deejaid, 05 January 2019 - 03:20 PM.

In the bag...

Macgregor Toney Penna Super Eye-O-Matic driver
Macgregor M85 Super Eye-O-Matic 3 & 4 woods
Cleveland Classic TC 15 5-wood
Hogan Precision irons  TT Rocket shafts 3-E
Hogan Sand Iron
H&B Grand Slam Mars 70 putter

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#9 BIG STU

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 08:15 PM

I build modify and whatever it takes to get it playable for me--- Out of all the clubs I own there are only two that I will not modify--- One is a blonde Persimmon Penna driver that has never hit a ball period and the other one is a Mac Curtis Strange 56* SW that he gave me himself. But other than that I will regrip reshaft and of course use lead tape to get them playable.
Driver: Homna G1-X Homna stiff shaft
FW Adams Tight Lies 16* Diamana Reg
Irons 3 thru PW 1982 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts hard stepped-- Yeah MacHogans or Bastardized Macs
SW Macgregor LRA 56* TT Wedge S-400 DJ Special
Putter- 1997 Scotty Cameron Santa Fe Rusty as hell and lead taped
Bag-- Original Ping Hoofer
Founding Father of Outlaw Golf Association member #1---- Play what you want screw the USGA & R&A
Redneck Hippie Golf When the Tailgate drops the BS Stops
Vintage
Toney Penna Model 1 Aldila HM-40
3&4 woods Macgregor DX Keyhole steel TT R
Irons 2 thru 9 1954 Hogan Precision TT green
PW Hogan White Cameo 50* Hogan Apex Wedge
SW Vokey 252 series 56* S-400 wedge
Putter ( subject to change) Cleveland 8802 Designed By
Bag Old School Titleist Stand

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#10 jslane57

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 09:01 PM

I will build, modify, grind, replace grips or anything to a club I intended to play. That said there was a time every club in my bag was modified, these days I like a stock club that works. If I find a classic club that I truly won’t play, I leave it alone...until I want to play it:)


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#11 No Catchy Nickname

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 09:13 PM

Do what it takes to make it playable...though I almost always give a club a go in its original state.
I generally look for clubs that have a shaft that is playable for me, but have sometimes reshafted. Often I have to get them extended, such as my recent acquisition of '72 Hogan Apexes. They need new grips, and the shafts are short for me (my modern clubs are half an inch longer than standard).
Old putters usually get a fair amount lead tape slapped on them. Irons too, if necessary.

One thing is that it's not difficult in Japan to find old clubs in amazing condition. I think many people hit their irons of mats most of the time as actually playing was so expensive. My two best finds were a set of Mac Muirifields 1i-SW that had most likely NEVER been hit, and a 3i-PW set of Honma PP737s that were mint. I'm not sure if the latter had been refurbished, because the shafts (DG S200) had no sign of rust and the grips had certainly been replaced.
Driver: Ping G400 Tour 65S
4w: TaylorMade R9 stock Fujikura Motore X flex
7w  TaylorMade V-steel, Quadra Fire Express RB 6SX
Driving Iron: Tourstage Airmuscle with DGS200 (for occasional use only)
Irons (4i-PW): Mizuno MP18 PX6.0 @ + 1/2"  or something a bit older....MP-4s, Mac Muirfield 20ths, Mac Muirfields, Mizuno MS-11s, MS-1s, RAM Tour Grinds, Tourstage 2005 CBs, Honma PP737s, Mac R-58s, Dunlop Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades, Wilson FG-J8s (FG-17s)...uh, I've missed a few
Wedges: Callaway MD2 50* S and 54* S-grind  or whatever else I fancy for the day
In the 60* slot: Usually a Titlesit Vokey 260 60*
Putter: Testing some old Mizuno 8802 clone

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#12 Jiggered

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 09:32 AM

First and foremost my clubs are for play.

I'll always try and keep them as original as possible and at 5'10" tall I find that most old clubs are playable as they are in terms of length and lie, probably a little on the short side compared to how clubs are sold today but nothing to cause any great problems in playing.

And with a swing speed that is neither fast nor slow I find I can play pretty much any shaft after a few holes with a club.

Having said the above I know that the clubs aren't going to be optimised for me but my enjoyment these days is from playing vintage clubs, not scoring as low as I possibly can.

Added to the fact that I change over the whole bag each week means that the most I might play any particular set of irons over a year could be half a dozen rounds, so there's no point in trying to make them perfect for my swing.

If grips are reasonable I'll leave them on but if they're shot I've no issue with replacing them.
I've never had the need to replace a shaft yet apart from hickory, when I do the difficulty will be in finding a suitable vintage shaft.
It's not all about the score.

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#13 @_the_crook

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Posted 07 January 2019 - 11:26 PM

they have to be or made playable.

no reason to invest anything into a set that you will not enjoy bringing to the course and having a good game with.

there are some projects worth completing, others not.
any clunkers, resell or donate.
your place could end up looking a bit like mine. it's on the edge.
currently playing:
Steelhead III - D
Warbirds, 3+, 4
Hogan BH-5, 3-PW
Wilson DynaPowered SW
Ping Anser
it works

when I need a change, there are 12 bags full to choose from .

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#14 russad

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Posted 08 January 2019 - 02:14 AM

Grips only for me and only if the originals are really unplayable.


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#15 dpark

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Posted 20 January 2019 - 03:00 AM

Generally I modify clubs to my specs (grips, length, lie). I don't mess with loft as it messes up the bounce and makes them less playable.

I do have 2 sets of pristine 50s era clubs that I play with that have original grips. But everything else will be modded as needed.

Old stuff:
1962 Tommy Armour AT2W Driver
1953 Macgregor M65W EOM 3 wood
1978 H&B PowerBilt Citation 4 wood
1984 Ben Hogan Apex PC 2-E
1968 Wilson Dual Wedge
1964 Acushnet O-SET M6S Bullseye Putter

New stuff
Cobra ZL 10.5 driver
Adams 5050 16 fairway wood
Adams A2P 20* hybrid
Titleist 716 MB irons 4-PW
Titleist SM6 wedges 52, 56, 60
Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Napa

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