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Persimmon Club Question About Face Screws


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#1 splai

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 12:44 PM

I am in the younger generation of golfers who have never played persimmons. There seems to be a lot of good content coming out lately comparing wood clubs to current technology or just messing around with older clubs. I'd like to get a few old clubs just to mess around and see what they feel like, mainly out of curiosity. My issue is that I do not know anything about them, mainly in regards to the screws in the face. I understand the purpose of them, but why do some have screws in the face and some don't? When they do have screws, there seems to be a lot of variety in how many screws, placement, etc. Does screw placement (in a square pattern, diamond, 4 screws without one in the center, 5 screws with one in the center, 6 screws in lines of 3, etc) or solid wood clubs with no screws (I have seen Lynx and Ping like this) change the ball flight? Are screws in the face a type of technology that started coming out after a certain year? What should I be looking for, or does it even matter? Anything helps! Thanks!


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#2 daniel gibson

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 03:48 PM

Just buy one with screws in the face so you can say “boom! hit that one out the screws”
Callaway Epic SZ - 9, Aldila Rogue Silver 60 x
Taylormade Rocketballz Pro Stage 2 14.5 Motore Speeder VC 8.2
Titleist 818 H2 19 Aldila Rogue 85 s
Mizuno JPX 900 Tour 4-PW PX LZ 6.0
Titleist Sm6 S400 54 - 58
Odyssey O Works #7s

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#3 Night train

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 04:03 PM

Screws were originally used to secure the inserts into the wooden body of the club as glues of the era were very poor, most of the old inserts were fiber. Glues were not reliable and hence the reason there were backscrews through the heel of woods that went thru the shaft. As epoxies and resins developed the screws were mostly decorative. Many modern inserts were actually epoxy which was poured into the cutout of the head, then cut and sanded. Inserts were made from fiber, glass, epoxy, aluminum......all sort of things thru the years.

The screw patterns are mostly decorative and serve no performance difference, a few inserts even had metal "firing pins" or "bullseyes" in the center.

Edited by Night train, 12 June 2018 - 04:10 PM.


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#4 dcopp7

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 07:19 PM

Post in the persimmon section under classic golf
Callaway Hyper X 9*  what's the point?

Cleveland Launcher 3W 15*

Synchron Vespa 19* hybrid

Dunlop Pro 18* driving iron

Orlimar clone 23* 7W

Dynacraft Prophet CB flexface 5i-PW

Acer XB 52* & 58* wedges

Lynx putter

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#5 KRW59

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 07:58 PM

My favorites , the old Honmas , with real gold screws...classy

Cobra King F8 10.5* / Fuji Diamond Speeder 5-SR
TEE EX10 Beta 16.5* / Fuji Platinum Speeder 6-S
TEE EX10 19* / Attas 4U 7-S
TEE EX9 22* / Attas 4U 7-X
TEE EX9 25* / Attas 4U 95-X

Cobra Forged Tec Black / 28* 6 iron thru 49.5* GW / 4.5* gapping
Recoil 780 Es Smac wrap F3 / GW shaft internally weighted to 95 grams

King Black Wedges / 54* versatile/ Recoil 95 F3 shaft weighted to 110 grams
58* versatile / Recoil 110 F4 shaft weighted to 125 grams ( heat shrink tube )

Piretti Savona 2 Elite ● Murdered ● or 1/1 GSS High Toe Potenza II

               Flask - Crown Black

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#6 Dcohenour

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Posted 13 June 2018 - 07:32 AM

View Postsplai, on 12 June 2018 - 12:44 PM, said:

I am in the younger generation of golfers who have never played persimmons. There seems to be a lot of good content coming out lately comparing wood clubs to current technology or just messing around with older clubs. I'd like to get a few old clubs just to mess around and see what they feel like, mainly out of curiosity. My issue is that I do not know anything about them, mainly in regards to the screws in the face. I understand the purpose of them, but why do some have screws in the face and some don't? When they do have screws, there seems to be a lot of variety in how many screws, placement, etc. Does screw placement (in a square pattern, diamond, 4 screws without one in the center, 5 screws with one in the center, 6 screws in lines of 3, etc) or solid wood clubs with no screws (I have seen Lynx and Ping like this) change the ball flight? Are screws in the face a type of technology that started coming out after a certain year? What should I be looking for, or does it even matter? Anything helps! Thanks!
I haven't noticed after having tried all kinds. If your just starting, your local thrift stores should have a variety of clubs for you to mess around with. Like modern equipment, there were so many different makes and models that finding ones that fit your game will be a fun adventure, and if you keep the cost low, not too stressful.

Around here, in Wisconsin, playable clubs can be had for 2-5 $ each. I have found them for as low as $1, and paid as much as a whopping $8 for a driver I thought I might like. You should have no trouble outfitting yourself with a complete set for around 20 - 40$. So try a bunch of different clubs if time and wallet (and missus, if so equipped) allow.

You might start with clubs you father or a favorite relative used to play. Or perhaps someone you admire from the 1970's. Or someone famous. Whatever floats your boat. I started with the best looking, condition wise, set I could find at the local thrift, and added the woods that matched that set of irons. Those happened to be Wilson K-28 forged irons. I wanted to see if I could hit them. I could, and I was hooked. (actually sliced, for those who have seen me play...)

After that, I just kept looking for upgrades, and persimmon clubs. In the course of 2 years they have not been difficult to obtain at all. I'll bet there are even people here who would get you hooked up if you just pay the postage. (I have a Wilson Staff persimmon driver and 5 wood that I will give to you if you want to pay the postage. pm ME.)

It is really fun to play with the older equipment, especially on courses designed and built when that equipment was the standard. I personally love the old courses. But I also like to occasionally play "newer" courses with old equipment, just to mess with people. It truly is the "road less traveled".

Be prepared to field questions about your gear tho. Some of us like to go old school with bags and apparel too. It's another side to the game. A lot of us also play with less than a full set. Wait.... :stop:

Don't worry about finding the perfect looking clubs either. Some of the best clubs I have aint too pretty. But I'll bet money that your ball striking will get even better than it probably already is (with that handicap), and you will fall in love with the sound. And in beating your playing partners with so-called "inferior" equipment.

There is a lot to like about the old gear, and a lot to like about the people who play it. You will find some of the nicest and most generous people you will ever meet playing hickory and vintage clubs. And you may even be able to organize a few meetups and find others near you who play the persimmons.

Just dive in and enjoy.
:to_become_senile:

Edited by Dcohenour, 13 June 2018 - 07:42 AM.


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#7 TimV

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Posted 13 June 2018 - 04:03 PM

You may also want to consider some of the old Ping laminates as they tend to be a bit larger and therefore a bit easier to hit for some. Just as with modern clubs the biggest difference maker is finding one with a shaft that works well for you.

Edited by TimV, 13 June 2018 - 04:03 PM.

Vintage:
60-61 Wilson Staff 2-PW w/t MacGregor Tourney Persimmon Driver & 4 Wood, Wilson Sam Snead Signature Brass Putter

67-68 Spalding Top Flite Professional 2-PW & Palmer FTD SW  w/t Cobra Persimmon Driver & 4 Wood, T.P.M. 12 Putter

Classic:
71-72 Wilson Staff Button Backs 2-PW & R61 Sandy Andy SW w/t Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver and 3 Wood, MacGregor Tourney SAT 5 Wood, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter

Modern Classic:
'1995' Snake Eyes S&W Forged 3-10 Irons, Hubby Habjan Scotch Blade 2 Iron, Mizuno MP 52-07, Titleist 258-08 Vokey, w/t TaylorMade R5 Dual 10.5 degree Driver, Snake Eyes Quickstrike 19 degree 4 Wood, Brass Anser Style Slotline Putter

Modern:
2016 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5 Forged 4-GW Irons, Wilson Harmonized 55 degree SW, w/t TaylorMade Burner Superfast 2.0: 10.5 degree Driver, 18 degree 4 Wood, 21 degree Hybrid. Tour Edge CNC Milled Feel III Putter

For S&G:
lil' David Slingers 2-PW w/t Tracks USA 10 degree Driver, 15 degree 3 Wood, and Brass Rammer 3000 USA Putter
*Ridiculous offset on all of these. You have to see it to believe it!  

Founding Father of the Jolly Roger Golf Association Member #1 and only...
(You can join but you have to get the tattoo)

Spank the Persimmon or Walk the Plank!

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#8 oldschoolrocker

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Posted 13 June 2018 - 04:51 PM

Tim is correct about the shaft.  Itís my opinion that itís an even more important part of the overall club equation with regards to vintage than modern.
OP, you can pick up a number of persimmon or laminate for a song these days, so donít be afraid to dive in and take a few for a test drive.

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#9 Texsport

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Posted 19 June 2018 - 09:20 AM

Wood Bros Kool Cat persimmon woods aren't 50s era classics, but transition clubs between persimmon and metal woods.

As such, they feature larger heads - approaching metal wood size - near full-faced "plastic" inserts to better withstand harder golf balls, and 44.5"graphite shafts.

A good starting point for persimmon experimentors IMO.

No insert screws, however.

Texsport

Edited by Texsport, 19 June 2018 - 09:21 AM.

Mizuno GT180 10.5*/Graphite Design Tour AD IZ 5 X
Tour Edge Exotics CB F2 PRO 15.5* Limited/Speeder 757 EVO 7.1X (Gene Sauers club)
Titleist 915 18*/Fubuki K 80X
Titleist 913 Hybrid 21*/Tour Blue 105X (Matt Jones' club) (OR) TM Burner 4-iron/Aldila RIP 115 Tour S
Wilson Staff V4 5 and 6/Aerotech Fibersteel 110 S
MacGregor PRO M 7-PM/Aldila RIP 115 Tour S
Edel 50*/KBS 610 S
Scratch JMO Grind Don White 56*/DG X-100
Cobra Trusty Rusty Tour  64*/DG S-200
The Cure CX2 putter

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