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Saving a clubhead swollen by moisture?


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#1 DM70

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 05:49 AM

I got this PT3W 3 wood which unfortunately is quite badly swollen from moisture. Apart from that there are no dings or gauges, face looks nice, original shaft and grip both in excellent condition. So if I could get the club head back to normal size I could do a light restoration to make it look young again.

Any tips or tricks for this condition?

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#2 raggal62

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 06:13 AM

Can't say that I've ever seen a clubhead shrink back after becoming swollen. Have you checked the swingweight to see if it's holding excess moisture?

I have the exact club and while I don't bag it anymore, I recall it being a very playable fairway wood.

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#3 DM70

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 06:18 AM

Swing weight ~D6, seems perhaps a tad much for a 3 wood of this age with Pro-Pel 3 shaft?

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#4 raggal62

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 07:34 AM

Perhaps a few of the experts will chime in with some good advice. Personally I haven't done any refinish work in over 30 years but ideally I would advise the insert and soleplate be reset and check the head for looseness on the shaft. Other than that I guess it all depends on how involved with the project you want to become.

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#5 mocokid

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 03:41 PM

View Postraggal62, on 10 May 2018 - 07:34 AM, said:

Perhaps a few of the experts will chime in with some good advice. Personally I haven't done any refinish work in over 30 years but ideally I would advise the insert and soleplate be reset and check the head for looseness on the shaft. Other than that I guess it all depends on how involved with the project you want to become.
Exactly Right recommendation above!!! In good shape, toney penna with fire pin insert.....

Edited by mocokid, 12 May 2018 - 03:42 PM.


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#6 Ol_Pardner

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Posted 13 May 2018 - 12:26 PM

raggal62 comments are on point. But having worked on a few of these clubs, for practice, there's a couple things I would add:
1. Be sure to address any water damage early in the process. Yes, it's probably better to go ahead and use the stripping gel first, to reveal the full extent of damage. Let it dry then brush it off. I use a cheap scrub brush from a $1 store, and some fine steel wool. A stiff wire brush, even a plastic scraper can leave gouges in already damaged wood.
2. Examine the entire clubhead for peaks and valleys. It's not always obvious where  moisture seeped under gaps in the clear coat. Lightly sand, thenFill the valleys with a wood filler or expoxy. Then sand the peaks.
3. Sand and treat the clubhead like any other wood. I rub in 2 coats (1 on the clubface, anymore can darken it too much.)
of boiled Linseed Oil, to condition the wood, and find that it works much better than pre-finish treatments that some manufacturers recommend. In fact in some instances, the Linseed Oil gives the club a nice natural finish and allows the grain to show.
4. Recheck your fillings, ALWAYS rub with your thumbs to check and make certain your surfaces are smooth!!!
5. Then preceed with the process. (Several times a year, I review Dave Wood's websites, to refresh what's left of my memory and to see if he's added anything!)
I'll try to attach pics of a Titleist B12T Driver I pulled out of bucket (head down, and wet), on the front porch of a now defunct Flea Market. It has 3 splits in the neck, so I rushed through the process (I've done better work), because I knew it was unsaleable, and I wanted to try it. It feels GREAT! on those days I want alighter driver, the C-8 with DG S400 fits the bill. This one I used some Colonial
Also, a VIP Limited, that was in better shape, along with its matching 3 (WIP). Any suggestions on what to do with the toe crack on the 3 wood?
Good Luck! Post some pics.
Looks like I'll have to post pics later via laptop.

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#7 Ol_Pardner

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Posted 13 May 2018 - 02:02 PM

Titleist attached. Not too shiny, had applied some steelwool, to see about covering that spot between neck and insert, and additional clear coats. Note the water stains on face. No matter how much sanding, you might not get all of them out. Also, pic of materials (Buy the Linseed packaged. You can't boil or microwave it.).

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#8 DM70

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Posted 13 May 2018 - 02:35 PM

Thanks for the tips Ol Pardner!

Unfortunately I ran into a snag already at stage one. The bottom screws came off easily enough with some heat, but the first face screw snapped clean off, luckily the shear was beneath the insert, but still. The second one, with more heat applied, stripped at very easy pressure. I left the other two for now, I'm thinking I need to invest in an easy-out tool of some sort...

With how brittle they are, I wonder if these are aluminum screws, to match the insert?

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