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rust under the Pyratone sheath


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#1 wkuo3

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 11:12 AM

Was playing the Wilson R-90 with the brown Pyratone sheath cover the other day, the old gal did well.

However, I discovered the sign of rust along the top of the hosel and the ferrule.  Upon inspection there was an indentation on the shaft close to the hosel,  The shaft felt solid with hand twisting, not sure how long this will last before something break.
The ferrule seemed to be the original, can;t make up my mind whether to reshaft this SW and play it more of often.

Anyone knows the spec for the replacement shaft ?  Will it be the tapered tip or the parallel tip, or would it require a special tipped shaft ?


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#2 wkuo3

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 11:15 AM

https://photos.googl...mwzR1hNcWY2YnBB

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#3 lke90

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 04:09 PM

I'll follow the shaft quest..just broke my rusty shaft at the top of the backswing today..
lesson learned: it hurts, keep it away from playing till (WE) find a replacement, better rusty than broken
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#4 wkuo3

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 07:57 PM

View Postlke90, on 08 May 2018 - 04:09 PM, said:

I'll follow the shaft quest..just broke my rusty shaft at the top of the backswing today..
lesson learned: it hurts, keep it away from playing till (WE) find a replacement, better rusty than broken

What kind of club and shaft ?   With the brown Pyratone sheath on the shaft ?  Was it rusted near the hosel ?

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#5 stixman

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 04:18 AM

View Postwkuo3, on 08 May 2018 - 11:15 AM, said:


It's hard to tell which version of the R90 it is from the photo. My guess is it's an 'Original' model, in which case it's recent ('80s) and it's paint not Pyratone.

Vintage various.

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#6 wkuo3

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 07:32 AM

View Poststixman, on 09 May 2018 - 04:18 AM, said:

View Postwkuo3, on 08 May 2018 - 11:15 AM, said:


It's hard to tell which version of the R90 it is from the photo. My guess is it's an 'Original' model, in which case it's recent ('80s) and it's paint not Pyratone.


To my limited knowledge , the Pyratone shafts are steel sheathed in a plastic like substance called Pyratone, Which was common in the 1920's - 30;s
The brown color is definitely not paint,  It's like a sleeve over the steel shaft,  I believe that's how the moisture was trap around the hosel.  Since it's a SW, and I used it for green side shots not a full swing approach shot.  Hesitant to re-shaft it unless I'll need to.

It is the Wilson original sand iron with shaft step pattern of approx. 2" each all the way down the entire shaft cept for the tip section.

Hopefully it'll last, hate to have to extract a broken rusted shaft.

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#7 lke90

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 07:53 AM

View Postwkuo3, on 08 May 2018 - 07:57 PM, said:

View Postlke90, on 08 May 2018 - 04:09 PM, said:

I'll follow the shaft quest..just broke my rusty shaft at the top of the backswing today..
lesson learned: it hurts, keep it away from playing till (WE) find a replacement, better rusty than broken

What kind of club and shaft ?   With the brown Pyratone sheath on the shaft ?  Was it rusted near the hosel ?

mine was rusted under the original leather grip.. the club was a mashie niblick and maybe the shaft wasn't in Pyratone  now I think about it

here are info on the club:
http://www.golfwrx.c...mashie-niblick/
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#8 raggal62

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 05:55 AM

Probably be okay with greenside shots (chips, lobs). Not sure I would trust it for sand shots, especially with hard packed conditions.

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#9 wkuo3

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 07:19 AM

View Postraggal62, on 10 May 2018 - 05:55 AM, said:

Probably be okay with greenside shots (chips, lobs). Not sure I would trust it for sand shots, especially with hard packed conditions.

Yes, that's my concern also.  We have lots of packed down sand in the bunker around here, never the fluffy type.  A few olf courses had trucked in the white fluffy volcanic mix from the East of the Cascade Mountain Range but it was expensive so no one really kept up with the fluffy sand in the bunkers.

Exactly why I asked if anyone would know the tip size of the shaft.  I got to measure it with a caliper and it was 0.390 just above the ferrule ( with the brown colored sheathing , that might have added some thickness ) so very likely it's 0.370 with the metal.
I have spare shafts in parallel and tapered tip.   I would worry about this if and when the shaft breaks and needs replacement.

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#10 raggal62

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 09:29 AM

Parallel shafts came about in the early seventies. Has to be .355" taper tip. Remember that any parallel steel iron shaft will be the same diameter (.370") from the tip up to the 1st step.

Edit: Sorry I should have said stepped steel shafts. Non-stepped shafts (Rifle, Project X, ect.) don't apply.

Edited by raggal62, 10 May 2018 - 09:45 AM.


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#11 stixman

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 03:49 PM

View Poststixman, on 09 May 2018 - 04:18 AM, said:

View Postwkuo3, on 08 May 2018 - 11:15 AM, said:


It's hard to tell which version of the R90 it is from the photo. My guess is it's an 'Original' model, in which case it's recent ('80s) and it's paint not Pyratone.

Ironfinder has those 'Originals' listed as made between 1969 and 1992, so there are plenty around.
In fact Ebay has several priced between BIn $20 - 30 and auctions starting at $10 with 4 days to go and no takers.
Is it really worthwhile reshafting with all the hassle involved? If it was the 1930 - 1940 version, well, that's different
Vintage various.

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#12 wkuo3

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 04:09 PM

View Poststixman, on 10 May 2018 - 03:49 PM, said:

View Poststixman, on 09 May 2018 - 04:18 AM, said:

View Postwkuo3, on 08 May 2018 - 11:15 AM, said:


It's hard to tell which version of the R90 it is from the photo. My guess is it's an 'Original' model, in which case it's recent ('80s) and it's paint not Pyratone.

Ironfinder has those 'Originals' listed as made between 1969 and 1992, so there are plenty around.
In fact Ebay has several priced between BIn $20 - 30 and auctions starting at $10 with 4 days to go and no takers.
Is it really worthwhile reshafting with all the hassle involved? If it was the 1930 - 1940 version, well, that's different

The only reason I'm considering re-shaft is because I'm considering putting this back into play.  Don't ant to lose the head and certainly don't want anyone to get hurt, including myself.
I have very little collection for "value" reason, most of the stuff I have are to be used on the golf course.
Not a hassle to reshaft at all, comparing to refinishing Persimmon woods this will be like a walk in the park.  If I wish to keep everything look like original then the ferrule might need to be custom ordered at $4 a piece but not likely I'd spend that just for the looks.

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#13 Hawkeye77

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Posted 11 May 2018 - 11:12 AM

Maybe it's because the thread is in the Classic forum, but calling a urologist comes to mind every time I see the title.

Learn something new every day on here.

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