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Ferrules Question


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#1 Equipto

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 10:58 PM

Ok, I bought the shafts, I bought the heads.  I bought the grips.

How do I know which ferrules to buy?  

I don’t mean the style/look, I mean the size/fit.

For gods sake someone help the noob.

If you care to reply, project x pxi 6.0 shafts (.355) taylormade 2014 tp mc iron heads.

Thanks in advance.


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#2 Mikeski

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 11:11 PM

If the shafts are taper tip buy .355 ferrules. If the shafts are parallel tip buy .370 ferrules.

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#3 ncglfr

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 11:17 PM

View PostEquipto, on 11 January 2018 - 10:58 PM, said:

Ok, I bought the shafts, I bought the heads.  I bought the grips.

How do I know which ferrules to buy?  

I don’t mean the style/look, I mean the size/fit.

For gods sake someone help the noob.

If you care to reply, project x pxi 6.0 shafts (.355) taylormade 2014 tp mc iron heads.

Thanks in advance.

Just buy .355 ferrules.  Hard to go wrong w/ 3/4" solid black, but that's up to you.

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#4 Equipto

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 11:54 PM

View Postncglfr, on 11 January 2018 - 11:17 PM, said:

View PostEquipto, on 11 January 2018 - 10:58 PM, said:

Ok, I bought the shafts, I bought the heads.  I bought the grips.

How do I know which ferrules to buy?  

I don’t mean the style/look, I mean the size/fit.

For gods sake someone help the noob.

If you care to reply, project x pxi 6.0 shafts (.355) taylormade 2014 tp mc iron heads.

Thanks in advance.

Just buy .355 ferrules.  Hard to go wrong w/ 3/4" solid black, but that's up to you.

Thanks I appreciate the feedback, solid black was my play but was curious of the sizing considering as you go up the shaft it gets larger.

I’ll post pics when I’m done.

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#5 Equipto

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 11:56 PM

View PostMikeski, on 11 January 2018 - 11:11 PM, said:

If the shafts are taper tip buy .355 ferrules. If the shafts are parallel tip buy .370 ferrules.

Again, for a beginner, taper vs  parallel?  Do you happen to know what that means in reference to the pxi?


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#6 raggal62

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 07:19 AM

Unless your planning on "turning down" the ferrules, you may also consider purchasing the correct ferrule OD to match the hosel OD.

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#7 ncglfr

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 08:22 AM

View PostEquipto, on 11 January 2018 - 11:56 PM, said:

View PostMikeski, on 11 January 2018 - 11:11 PM, said:

If the shafts are taper tip buy .355 ferrules. If the shafts are parallel tip buy .370 ferrules.

Again, for a beginner, taper vs  parallel?  Do you happen to know what that means in reference to the pxi?

.355 is also known as taper tip.  .370 is also known as parallel tip.  You have .355 shafts, so they're taper tip.

In regards to your other question:

"curious of the sizing considering as you go up the shaft it gets larger."

These are taper tip shafts, so you shouldn't be tipping these shafts.  They will all be the same diameter the same distance up the shaft.  I believe you're confusing them a bit with parallel tip shafts (.370") which you would tip more as you get to shorter and shorter clubs.  Having said that, the tip section is parallel, so even as you tip them, the diameter isn't getting larger as you go up since it's a section of the shaft that is parallel.

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#8 Stuart G.

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 08:36 AM

View PostEquipto, on 11 January 2018 - 11:54 PM, said:

Thanks I appreciate the feedback, solid black was my play but was curious of the sizing considering as you go up the shaft it gets larger.

Yes the distinction between tapered iron and parallel iron ferules is quite pointless.  Both shaft types will actually have a similar diameter at the top of the hosel. On top of that there is no actual standard for what the ID of the ferrule will/should be for either type.  So it's always important to check the specs of the actual ferrule you plan on purchasing and not whether it's labeled as a taper tip or parallel tip ferrule.

Either type of ferrule can be used for either type of shaft.  The difference will actually be in how tight do you want/like the ferrule to be around the shaft or how easy you want to be able to slide it on.

Edited by Stuart G., 12 January 2018 - 08:39 AM.


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#9 wkuo3

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:00 AM

Should have a caliper for measuring the OD of the hosel ( where the ferrule meets the hosel ).  You can get it from under $10 to several hundred but for golf club measuring any digital caliper will do.

Match the OD of the hosel to the OD of the ferrule, it does not matter whether it's a tapered ferrule or a parallel.  If the I.D is a little tight to slid on the shaft just run a file through the inside of the ferrule several times and it'll fit fine.  Do not over expand the I.D of the ferrule, a tight fit is good since the epoxy will act as a lubricant when assembling.  move the ferrule with something that provide friction if it gets stuck during dry fitting.
When ordering the ferrule, always order to match the O.D. of both the hosel and the ferrule with the correct I.D.   Most of the shop have the exact match but if not, take the one slightly larger on the ferrule and you could turn it to fit.

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#10 Brock Landers

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:06 AM

I buy mine at golfworks and they're always labeled, when you get them they will seem too small. What I do is push them on dry and then use a two inch shaft butt leftover from one I trimmed and a rubber mallet to hit it off. I slide the shaft piece over and hold it against the top off the ferule with one hand and tap it off with the mallet. When I have everything ready to go I put a little epoxy on the shaft and use the iron head to push the ferule on until it bottoms out. I measure the shaft to make sure the head will be completely seated.

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#11 Stuart G.

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:34 AM

Lots of different ways to do this.

For tight ferrules, I find it easier to get the ferrule started on the tip, heat a small cup of water in the microwave to the boiling point, then dip the tip/ferrule in the water for about 30 seconds or so.   Then you can push it on with the actual head/hossel with very little effort to the perfect location on the shaft. Just realize that with graphite shafts you need to have any tip weights in place when you do this.

Edited by Stuart G., 12 January 2018 - 09:36 AM.


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#12 Equipto

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 11:44 AM

Tons of great info and clarity here,  thanks all for the input

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#13 Nessism

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 03:59 PM

If you use water to heat the ferrule don't forget to properly dry the shaft before gluing up the heads.

Personally, I always buy .355 ferrules and then I use a .370" reamer to open them up as needed if they feel too tight and/or I'm using .370 shafts.  I then use a little epoxy on the shaft tip to lubricate the ferrule and allow it to slide easier as the proper depth is set.
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#14 Stuart G.

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 05:03 AM

View PostNessism, on 12 January 2018 - 03:59 PM, said:

If you use water to heat the ferrule don't forget to properly dry the shaft before gluing up the heads.

Personally, I always buy .355 ferrules and then I use a .370" reamer to open them up as needed if they feel too tight and/or I'm using .370 shafts.  I then use a little epoxy on the shaft tip to lubricate the ferrule and allow it to slide easier as the proper depth is set.

Do you use a straight reamer or tapered?  I suspect the later but wanted to double check, and if so, where did you pick one up?   The ones I've run across were a bit pricy.

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#15 Nessism

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 07:41 AM

View PostStuart G., on 13 January 2018 - 05:03 AM, said:

View PostNessism, on 12 January 2018 - 03:59 PM, said:

If you use water to heat the ferrule don't forget to properly dry the shaft before gluing up the heads.

Personally, I always buy .355 ferrules and then I use a .370" reamer to open them up as needed if they feel too tight and/or I'm using .370 shafts.  I then use a little epoxy on the shaft tip to lubricate the ferrule and allow it to slide easier as the proper depth is set.

Do you use a straight reamer or tapered?  I suspect the later but wanted to double check, and if so, where did you pick one up?   The ones I've run across were a bit pricy.

Golfworks sell the reamers and I've got both types.  I typically use the .370 reamer to open up ferrules.  I don't like super tight ferrules because they are a pain in the butt to install.

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#16 I_HATE_SNOW

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 08:17 AM

The taper refers to the very tip of the shaft, the section where the ferrule goes will be the same size.   .355 graphite shafts start life as .370 and have the tip reduced.  
I'd never put a ferrule on without epoxy, lubricates the shaft and keeps the ferrule from migrating up the shaft later.  I lightly wire brush the inside, clean with alcohol to make sure the epoxy holds it down.  It helps if the ferrule is the same OD as the head, makes finishing easy.

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