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Hot melt


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#1 cpouley

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 03:58 PM

I have an LTD Pro driver so access to the inside of the head is easy. Can epoxy be used for hot melting? If not, what should be used?


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#2 Booker

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 04:08 PM

You need to use hotmelt adhesive.  Hot melt doesnt fully harden it stays soft and sticky. Epoxy will fully harden and break apart after impact and cause a rattle in the club. Should be able to get it through golf works or any golf distributor.  Ive seen it at archery shops and hardware stores as well.

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#3 Curious

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 09:28 PM

See this excellent post by RI_Redneck:
http://www.golfwrx.c...-with-polyfill/

Hotmelt is better but if you have to you can use epoxy. Part A only
https://www.tutelman...gn/swingwt6.php

Quote

You can use just the "Part A" of two-part epoxy. That way, there is no working-time problem. The "paste" stays sticky and viscous forever, so the fact that it isn't a hardened bond shouldn't hurt. The down side is that, left in a car trunk or garage, the past might flow to the lowest point. The up side is that it won't ever break loose and rattle, as a cured epoxy might.

Edited by Curious, 13 September 2017 - 09:30 PM.


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#4 Awainer1

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 05:25 AM

The best thing to hotmelt with is hotmelt

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#5 Nuggets

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 06:26 AM

Can also use some cotton balls if you just want to add weight in general

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#6 cpouley

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:46 AM

So I look online and there are a bunch of different glue sticks listed as Hot Melt. Any particular kind you guys use?

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#7 Ri_Redneck

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 11:18 AM

Read this and go with Option 2. I have Option 1 and it is a pathetic design to say the least. Give it time to heat completely and use easy pressure when ejecting the hotmelt into the head. Too much pressure will cause back-flow onto the plunger and a mess to clean up. A small micro torch to keep the copper tube hot is very handy to ensure consistent flow. The tube cools faster than the cartridge and can plug if you take more than a minute or two to inject the hotmelt.

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Edited by Ri_Redneck, 14 September 2017 - 11:23 AM.

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#8 Curious

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 11:36 AM

 cpouley, on 14 September 2017 - 08:46 AM, said:

So I look online and there are a bunch of different glue sticks listed as Hot Melt. Any particular kind you guys use?

For the amount that I usually do I settled for this one:
https://www.golfwork...ringe/p/GW0035/

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#9 Jagpilotohio

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 11:44 AM

 Curious, on 14 September 2017 - 11:36 AM, said:

 cpouley, on 14 September 2017 - 08:46 AM, said:

So I look online and there are a bunch of different glue sticks listed as Hot Melt. Any particular kind you guys use?

For the amount that I usually do I settled for this one:
https://www.golfwork...ringe/p/GW0035/

Interesting.  I hadn't seen this before.  Almost like a one time use product, but not a bad idea at all if you only do a head now and then.

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#10 Curious

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 12:38 PM

You can use it more than once depending. It goes in the microwave prior for about ten seconds


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#11 cpouley

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 01:51 PM

Thanks guys for the options. I will use one.

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#12 Golfrnut

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 07:58 PM

 Curious, on 14 September 2017 - 11:36 AM, said:

 cpouley, on 14 September 2017 - 08:46 AM, said:

So I look online and there are a bunch of different glue sticks listed as Hot Melt. Any particular kind you guys use?

For the amount that I usually do I settled for this one:
https://www.golfwork...ringe/p/GW0035/


Just be aware that's not hot melt, that is rattle stop...two different things.  The rattle stop will move and settle in low spots at much lower temps.  Hot melt will not and stays in place once injected.  With larger amounts, you can have unintended effects like the rattle shot moving within the head and altering feel, swingweight, etc.

Edited by Golfrnut, 14 September 2017 - 07:59 PM.

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#13 cpouley

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Posted 15 September 2017 - 03:18 PM

So I put my driver on a scale and my pro weighed it at an E2. So i took an inch off like I wanted and estimate that took it down to D6 or so. I will weigh it again tomorrow. D4 is standard. So I'm thinking I want to stay around the new weight. I still want to deaden the sound. How little hot melt or equivalent will deaden sound?  Would cotton balls work? Ltd provides pretty easy access.

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#14 Awainer1

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Posted 15 September 2017 - 03:35 PM

Hotmelt won't deaden sound much unless you're ur loading globs of it and even then it will be barely noticeable in my experience. I'd worry more about the weight and performance of the club than the small change in sound you will get from hotmelt.

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#15 Curious

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Posted 15 September 2017 - 05:19 PM

 cpouley, on 15 September 2017 - 03:18 PM, said:

So I put my driver on a scale and my pro weighed it at an E2. So i took an inch off like I wanted and estimate that took it down to D6 or so. I will weigh it again tomorrow. D4 is standard. So I'm thinking I want to stay around the new weight. I still want to deaden the sound. How little hot melt or equivalent will deaden sound?  Would cotton balls work? Ltd provides pretty easy access.

I'd use cotton balls. If the experiment fails or if you want to sell it down the road  then you can always take it out and bring it back to where it was originally. There is no going back with Hot Melt. As far a sound I had a Cobra F6+ and did not like the sound at first. Then after a while I got used to it and anything else sounded funny. Go figure :swoon:


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