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Gonna refinish a Cobra CNC Classic - suggestions & advice pls


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#1 bazinoz

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 03:09 AM

Just picked up a Cobra CNC Classic Milled putter (8802/Napa style). It's seen better days and is ripe for a refinish I reckon.

I believe it is raw steel. Anyone able to confirm this from the photos? There is some corrosion so pretty sure it is.

I'd like to give it a make-over myself and am thinking of giving it a buff & polish. Is "cokeing" the best way to remove the corrosion? Or just sand and polish and steel wool?
Then darkening by either gun bluing or black oxide. Which one is used on raw steel (as opposed to stailess).
Don't think I'll go the torching route for colors. I tried once before with poor results. Although that may have been due to the putter I tried it on (a Spalding TPM 4).

I'm open to any advice, suggestions and tips on going about it. Or on any other methods of giving it a make over. There might be other finishes I haven't thought of that are easy for a home DIY project. I've done a fair few searches on here and come across a lot of info already (some of it conflicting :) ).

Any advice is much appreciated.


Here's some pics of her day 1.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by bazinoz, 10 July 2017 - 05:38 AM.


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#2 oneaugusta

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 04:56 AM

no pictures...
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#3 bazinoz

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 05:12 AM

Hmm, thanks oneaugusta. They were there....

Always use photobucket and never had problems before. They appeared before in original post. Then disappeared with message UPDATE YOUR ACCOUNT TO ENABLE 3RD PARTY HOSTING.
I've now just linked to the images. Seems to work. Hope they stay there this time...I tried just copy n paste from my PC. That didn't work either, I get a message "post too short". Weird.

Edit - no they've gone.

Edit 2 - seems it is photobucket doesn't allow 3rd party hosting. Costs $400 to allow it now!! Have to find another way...

Anyone know how I can post photos now?

Edit 3 - Yay. Using Flkr. Seems to work :)

Edited by bazinoz, 10 July 2017 - 05:42 AM.


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#4 oneaugusta

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 07:08 PM

Naval jelly to remove old finish, sand head really good with 120 and work your way up to 2000.  Do not sand the face with course grits, maybe wet sand with 1200 once.  Polish really well, cean really well, then torch or other.  Pm me if you want more help.
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#5 The General

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 09:08 PM

Send it to someone for some deep mill work, would look amazing!!

Good luck. Look forward to seeing the final product.


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#6 smeech8000

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 08:26 AM

View PostThe General, on 10 July 2017 - 09:08 PM, said:

Send it to someone for some deep mill work, would look amazing!!

Good luck. Look forward to seeing the final product.

While I like the muted feel of a milled face, I would discourage deep milling this head.  It's likely quite light already and you're probably going to lose ~5g from a deep mill on the face, plus it's an outside job.  However, I suppose you could always offset any weight loss with powder/tip weights down the shaft - no need to worry about preserving toe hang on this baby!

OP - oneaugusta/Larry has done a lot of torching and knows what he is talking about.  I highly recommend you follow his guide/advice should you choose to go that route.

Regardless of what finish you choose (raw carbon offers a variety of finishes - gun blue, plum brown, torching, raw polished/satin), the key to a quality finish is in the prep work - the more uniform and polished your sanding is, the more vibrant the finish will appear, and it will last much longer.  These heads tend to really clean up nice because there's no cavity typical of an anser-style head.

Get yourself some acetone, latex gloves, and blow dryer.  Once you're finished sanding  you'll need them to get the head clean and dry immediately prior to applying your finish.
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#7 bazinoz

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 06:29 PM

View Postoneaugusta, on 10 July 2017 - 07:08 PM, said:

Naval jelly to remove old finish, sand head really good with 120 and work your way up to 2000.  Do not sand the face with course grits, maybe wet sand with 1200 once.  Polish really well, cean really well, then torch or other.  Pm me if you want more help.

View Postsmeech8000, on 11 July 2017 - 08:26 AM, said:

View PostThe General, on 10 July 2017 - 09:08 PM, said:

Send it to someone for some deep mill work, would look amazing!!

Good luck. Look forward to seeing the final product.

While I like the muted feel of a milled face, I would discourage deep milling this head.  It's likely quite light already and you're probably going to lose ~5g from a deep mill on the face, plus it's an outside job.  However, I suppose you could always offset any weight loss with powder/tip weights down the shaft - no need to worry about preserving toe hang on this baby!

OP - oneaugusta/Larry has done a lot of torching and knows what he is talking about.  I highly recommend you follow his guide/advice should you choose to go that route.

Regardless of what finish you choose (raw carbon offers a variety of finishes - gun blue, plum brown, torching, raw polished/satin), the key to a quality finish is in the prep work - the more uniform and polished your sanding is, the more vibrant the finish will appear, and it will last much longer.  These heads tend to really clean up nice because there's no cavity typical of an anser-style head.

Get yourself some acetone, latex gloves, and blow dryer.  Once you're finished sanding  you'll need them to get the head clean and dry immediately prior to applying your finish.


Thanks for the input guys.

I have actually just ordered a Birchwood Casey Gun Blue kit for the job. I will certainly do the most thorough job I can in prep. The kit includes de-greaser and rust remover. I've already got the acetone, gloves, files, and sand papers from 240 grit up to 1200 (struggling to find 2000+). And a couple of grades of steel wool. I've previously polished up an Old Master W802 and an Acushnet Bullseye putter that came up real well. So I know the amount of work needed (and then some if I want a good finish).

Smeech, what do you use the blow dryer for? Is that to dry the gun blue after each application? Or is it best to let dry naturally? I was going to be applying each coat of gun blue liquid and then rubbing in with steel wool also dipped in the blue. I'm reading that 3 or 4 coats will be required to get a nice deep, dark blue.

Another quick question. I'm not going to torch it, but I've got a blow torch. I read one thread where someone said heating the head up prior to blueing will give a better and more long lasting result. Anyone confirm this?

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#8 smeech8000

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 07:43 AM

View Postbazinoz, on 11 July 2017 - 06:29 PM, said:

Smeech, what do you use the blow dryer for? Is that to dry the gun blue after each application? Or is it best to let dry naturally? I was going to be applying each coat of gun blue liquid and then rubbing in with steel wool also dipped in the blue. I'm reading that 3 or 4 coats will be required to get a nice deep, dark blue.

After your final sanding, you want to clean the head well with soap and water, then rinse in acetone.  I recommend using a blow dryer to dry the head after these processes as opposed to using a lint-free cloth because you don't even have to touch the head which removes all possibility of leaving fibers or oil (from your skin) on the head.

Before soaking the head in acetone I'll don the gloves, but this just makes sure you don't get any spots in the finish from touching the head; you can even use a pair of rubber-jawed vise grips to handle the head at the hosel so you're not touching anything.
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#9 bazinoz

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 07:11 PM

First stages of clean up. Soaked in coke for a day, then clean, dry and scrubbed/bathed with WD40. Light sanding to try remove more of the previous black finish.
Does the staining left on this look like just rust/corrosion?

Posted Image
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If it is just corrosion, then next stage will be applying the rust remover that comes with the bluing kit.

Plenty of nicks and dings to remove mainly from the back flange area and the hosel. Not sure how hard to go at them. Looks like some big enough to have to use a fine file which I didn't really want to use. Will try maybe 80 or 160 grit wet n dry see if that does some good first.

The top line is surprisingly free of major dings. Face is pretty good too as is the sole. I will do the minimum to those areas to keep it as close to original lines as possible. Evidence of some nice milling on the face near the heel. Looks to have gone from the rest of the face, unless it's somewhere there under the corroded finish :)

Edited by bazinoz, 15 July 2017 - 07:21 PM.


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#10 oneaugusta

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 05:11 AM

Looks mostly like bag marks/dings.  would just go to town with strong grit sanding 100 or 120 until smooth maybe even small file.

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#11 bazinoz

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 06:52 AM

View Postoneaugusta, on 16 July 2017 - 05:11 AM, said:

Looks mostly like bag marks/dings.  would just go to town with strong grit sanding 100 or 120 until smooth maybe even small file.

Yeah, I've been at it with 120 grit today. Taking a while but looks like it'll come good. Down to the last 4 or 5 of the worst nicks on the back. I'm leaving the rest of it until I've applied some rust remover. Don't think there's many dings at all on the face, sole and top line.

Does that staining on the face and sole look like corrosion? Or would it be discoloring left over from the old black finish that was on it?

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#12 oneaugusta

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 02:59 PM

Not sure about the coke way of finish removal, have found naval jelly to be best.  Try bar keepers friend on black spots, may help...
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#13 bazinoz

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 05:21 PM

View Postoneaugusta, on 16 July 2017 - 02:59 PM, said:

Not sure about the coke way of finish removal, have found naval jelly to be best.  Try bar keepers friend on black spots, may help...

Can't find "naval jelly" over here. Not sure what its called in Oz. But I've got rust remover coming with the bluing kit, so I'll be giving that a go. Coke is pretty good for removing crap off metals. Try sticking an old coin in a glass of coke overnight and see what it does. Amazes me that people drink the stuff !! :)

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#14 bazinoz

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Posted 20 July 2017 - 04:38 AM

Update - Rust remover applied and scrubbed up.
Now done small bit of filing then 120 and 240 grit sanding.

Starting to get there. Finding it very hard to get rid of the nicks around the hosel.

Posted Image

Posted Image

I'll be going to 1200 grit eventually and a couple of grades of steel wool before final polishing and bluing.

Not sure how much more to do at 240. Might leave the rest of the worse nicks and buff the rest up.

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#15 oneaugusta

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Posted 20 July 2017 - 05:44 PM

Keep going with 120 on the nicks on neck, you'll get there.

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#16 bazinoz

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 05:35 AM

Did some more 120 grit around the hosel, then  all the way from 240, 400, 600, 800 and 1200 grit. Looking pretty good.
Still got to finish off with a couple of grades of steel wool and maybe a polish with brasso or similar.

Hope this will then be good enough for the gun blue finish.

Posted Image

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Will then have to think of a paint fill color.

If the bluing comes up nice and dark I'll probably go a bright orange in keeping with the Cobra thing. If it's lighter, maybe just straight white. We'll see.

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#17 oneaugusta

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 06:24 AM

Looking goooood!

For sure polish a few times then clean really well, it will make a huge difference when torching to blue.
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#18 bazinoz

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 06:40 AM

View Postoneaugusta, on 23 July 2017 - 06:24 AM, said:

Looking goooood!

For sure polish a few times then clean really well, it will make a huge difference when torching to blue.

Thanks OneA. I'm not torching though. I've got the Birchwood Casey Gun Blue liquid kit. Giving that a go.

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#19 bazinoz

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 03:36 AM

Polished, and just mucked around with some orange paint fill to practice. I'll remove the paint fill again before i do the bluing.

Although I reckon it does look rather nice as is...hmmmm

Posted Image

Posted Image

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#20 oneaugusta

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 06:24 AM

I like it the way it is,  not really a fan of the gun blue in a can or tube.  Maybe just keep oiled or spray silicone to keep from rust and corrosion.

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#21 bazinoz

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 09:43 PM

View Postoneaugusta, on 26 July 2017 - 06:24 AM, said:

I like it the way it is,  not really a fan of the gun blue in a can or tube.  Maybe just keep oiled or spray silicone to keep from rust and corrosion.

Still got my heart set on bluing it mate. Partly because I want to give that a crack, and partly because in the Queensland sun it's a bit hard to play with such a shiny top line.

I think I'll have to give it 4 or 5 bluings. And if it ends up not looking right, I think you can strip the blue away again and start over (or leave shiny).

I'm hoping the orange on dark blue/grey/black  will look nice.

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#22 bazinoz

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 11:27 PM

Right. I've now done 3x passes with the Birchwood Casey Liquid Perma Blue.

Personally, I am stoked with the way it has turned out. A real nice, dark, smokey grey.
And at the moment it looks quite nice and glossy. The photos don't really do it justice with some of the reflections.
It is actually quite nice & dark, glossy and more uniform than it appears here.


Posted Image

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I've currently got it soaked and wrapped in silicon oil. Will leave overnight.
I'll decide then whether to leave as is, or do another layer or 2 of the blue.

I reckon it looks beautiful, but then I'm biassed.
Welcome thoughts from everyone.

Edited by bazinoz, 05 August 2017 - 11:29 PM.


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#23 1970.gpp

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 06:05 AM

I think it looks great.  It's nice to see underappreciated putters getting some attention.  Any idea if Cobra made a mallet in that series?  I'd love to snap one up and do a restoration if they did...
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#24 cwglum

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 06:11 AM

It looks perfect as is, I've actually considered sending my SS Cameron to have a similar muted look applied.

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#25 Mitchell

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 06:22 AM

That came out beautifully, hope it works equally well for you.

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#26 bazinoz

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 07:56 AM

Yeah, thanks guys. My first attempt at gun-bluing and I'm pretty happy with it.

A few days later and the finish has actually now "backed off" a little and is tending towards a dark browny-grey kind of finish. Looks quite nice.
Just got to do a little paint fill in orange to keep the Cobra theme.

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#27 bazinoz

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Posted 13 August 2017 - 01:25 AM

Couple of pics with the paint fill done.

Posted Image

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