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Will sandblasting remove chrome finish on iron?


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#1 mfons31

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 08:53 PM

Was looking to do a gun blue finish on some irons as a test.  Will sandblasting remove the chrome finish?

I know miriatic acid will, but i dont want to get too crazy ;)

Any ideas???

Thanks


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#2 dgrelecki

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 08:55 PM

The Chrome (and possibly other coatings) need to be properly stripped, and THEN you can bead blast them.

#3 mfons31

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 08:57 PM

other than the acid, how can you fully strip the chrome?

#4 dgrelecki

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 09:06 PM

It's really not even just the acid.  There's a process to taking it off.  When chroming, the object you want the chrome on is dipped in a solution attached to electricity.  The opposite polarity is attached to chromium and added to the solution.  The attracting polarity pulls the chromium to the iron plating them in chrome.  This process must be reversed as far as I know.  Typcally a plating shp will do this at a much better price than a specific golf club place like golfworks or the iron factory...

Good luck!

#5 AcesAZ

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 09:15 PM

Yes and no, You can sandblast the chrome off of a club but the main problem is under the chrome. Most chrome plating's have a nickle plating underneath the chrome which is very hard stuff. The chrome will come off pretty easily but the nickle does not. Also it is VERY TOXIC to strip nickle due to the nickle dust and possible nickle poisoning from the dust. Leave this job to the pro's.


#6 sergizmo

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 09:16 PM

You would have to use a very coarse grit sand at very high pressure to even come close to stripping chrome. It's tough stuff. Chemicals are the way to go in this situation.

#7 mfons31

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 09:20 PM

Yeah this sounds like a plating shop would be the way to go.

#8 thewitt

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 10:22 AM

Reverse Plating is the process to remove chrome from irons.

If you try to do it mechanically, you'll end up cutting into the steel underneath and ruining the heads.

-t

#9 donzo

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:07 AM

The way metal coatings are put on golf clubs is typically through the process of electroplating.  You can remove metal too be reverse biasing the electroplating bath,  but this is NOT the method of choice for removing chrome/nickel or other common metals.   A light acid bath (of the appropriate acid that will react with the metal) will strip the coatings.  Coke is acidic and readily available to most people.  And yes you do need to worry about the toxicity of the metals removed.  I wouldn't go dumping the Coke with etched metals out next to your garden.

#10 BDLz

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:23 AM

You weren't trying to say coke would remove chrome were you???


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#11 donzo

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 12:31 PM

Coke is very acidic... and it does etch away metals, particularly if you leave it in overnite... not sure about Coke reacting with chrome though.    A solution of 3:1 water to hydrogen peroxide,however, will remove chrome.   If you have a nickel undercoat some pretty nasty acidic solutions are used in industry to remove that.

#12 donzo

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 12:45 PM

Just went and checked.   Coca-cola does have phosphoric acid in it (although small amounts).  Phosphoric acid does etch away nickel.

#13 thewitt

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 01:41 PM

Coke will NOT strip chrome - don't waste your time.

Electrolytic stripping in a tank of caustic solution is the method most professionals use, however it can be chemically stripped with many different acids as well (50% HCl or 20% Sodium Hydroxide will do it)- though it takes a solution much stronger than Coke to do so.

Disposal of the waste is a serious consideration, as it is real hazardous waste in every state and there are no personal disposal options. You must dispose of it professionally or risk huge fines.

If you are trying to get to the bare steel you will also have to remove the nickel. Much more difficult to do chemically - and not typically something a hobbyist can do.

This really is a job better left to the professional - both for the equipment needed and the disposal of the waste.

-t

#14 wildwilly911

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 02:29 PM

View Postdonzo, on Jan 22 2008, 12:07 PM, said:

The way metal coatings are put on golf clubs is typically through the process of electroplating.  You can remove metal too be reverse biasing the electroplating bath,  but this is NOT the method of choice for removing chrome/nickel or other common metals.   A light acid bath (of the appropriate acid that will react with the metal) will strip the coatings.  Coke is acidic and readily available to most people.  And yes you do need to worry about the toxicity of the metals removed.  I wouldn't go dumping the Coke with etched metals out next to your garden.


View Postdonzo, on Jan 22 2008, 01:31 PM, said:

Coke is very acidic... and it does etch away metals, particularly if you leave it in overnite... not sure about Coke reacting with chrome though.    A solution of 3:1 water to hydrogen peroxide,however, will remove chrome.   If you have a nickel undercoat some pretty nasty acidic solutions are used in industry to remove that.
it will not touch it. the only preferred way is to reverse plate it, chemical stripping works for crap. do some research. ive done this for 20 years i know

#15 MR MIZUN0

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 03:28 PM

I had a CG11 satin finish wedge, and sandblated the face with some carbide stuff at high pressure, it took the "satin finiish" off in no time!!  Now rust is starting to form, and to me it feels a little softer.


#16 donzo

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 04:07 PM

First off, take a pill and calm down.  I said I wasn't sure about Coke reacting with chrome.  Chromium form a very stable oxide and is difficult to etch through.  Secondly, I did do my research. I etch chrome but in semiconductor processing.  Here is a list of chrome etchants that we use in that field:

2:3:12 KMnO4:NaOH:H2O
3:1 - H2O:H2O2
HCl concentrated and dilute
3:1 - HCl:H2O2
2:1 - FeCl:HCl
Cyantek CR-7s (Perchloric based) 7 min/micron (24A/s new)
1:1 - HCl:glycerine 12min/micron after depassivation
1:3 - [50gNaOH+100mlH2O]:[30g K3Fe(CN)6+100mlH2O] 1hr/micron

I chose to present the water and peroxide method as opposed to the other nasty ones.  

Sorry if our experiences don't overlap and the techniques are different for the different fields.  Not anything to get upset over.

#17 wildwilly911

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 06:44 PM

thats the chrome, thats easy to take off, its the nickel thats hard to get off, there are a couple chemicals that work, one you are not getting your hansd on with out the right paper work the other works like crap. well some of the things you have listed will remove chrome not etch it

#18 mfons31

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Posted 27 January 2008 - 08:15 PM

Thanks for everyone's help.  Just an update, the sandblasting worked today.  I sandblasted a Cobra Forged CB 6 iron that was an old demo, then used gun cleaner to remove the residue.  Then i used a sponge with Perma Blue Gun Blue and went over the head several times, then used steel wool to smooth the streaks. They came out like a charcoal grey-ish color.  They look exactly like they were left raw from the factory similar to Chad Campbell's finish.

Overall, it took me around 35 mins to finish the one head.
Check out the pics....

#19 gboldman23

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Posted 27 January 2008 - 08:17 PM

Diggin' the unchrome finish. Did you stamp them yourself too?

#20 mfons31

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Posted 27 January 2008 - 08:19 PM

Yea i did that myself too.  Then used a propane torch to seal the color.

surprisingly simple!


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#21 mfons31

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Posted 27 January 2008 - 08:34 PM

Forgot to add the before pic......

#22 mfons31

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Posted 27 January 2008 - 08:54 PM

It worked!!

#23 maamold

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 06:54 PM

Hydrogen peroxide....And just too make sure...this is the stuff I put on a boo-boo to kill the extra germs...right?

#24 mfons31

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 07:19 PM

I didnt use the hydrogen peroxide method.  I just went with the sandblasting and it worked pretty well.

Here is what another GolfWRX member sent me.  It makes sense, i just didnt try it

"looked in my book for metal etchants, and it says 3:1 water to H2O2 for a SLOW chrome etch. It doesn't give a rate so I assume it will take a little bit of time. I also says to heat solution to 50 degrees Celsius (~122 Fahrenheit). The household version of peroxide should work, just not as effectively as a purer grade.

If I were doing it I'd try it with an older club first though. As always be careful. Particularly if you don't have any experience doing processes like this."


#25 wildwilly911

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 08:50 PM

the chrome is removed but the nickel is still there thats why your bluing didnt take. the problem with sandblasting is you cant tell when your removing the nickel


#26 maamold

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 08:52 PM

Well they are old clubs anyway so it can't hurt, 81 Hogan Directors.  Might look interesting with all the chrome gone off them, course they may have a copper underlay...hmmm....Maybe I'll just get them rechromed (satin!) by someone in the industry.

#27 enterprise920

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 10:04 PM

if Coca-Cola removed chrome....do you really think it would be safe to drink?
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#28 fastfed

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 09:14 AM

The perma  blue stuff, does NOT last. 1 round and its gone.. I tried it with my vokey oil can wedge.
It looks great at first, but it WILL wear off with in no time.

#29 mfons31

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 10:00 AM

Thanks for your insight.  

Did you reapply the perma blue?  Or did you let it fade?  Can you provide any pics?

#30 OnFire

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Posted 03 March 2009 - 12:20 AM

Wow. And to think all the Coke drinkers out there.


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