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What reamer to use for .370 hosel - 3/8" or what?


32 replies to this topic

#1 pmcuk

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 02:02 PM

I bought a 3/8" reamer to hand ream a taper tip hosel to accept a .370 shaft. Reamer works fine, but the shaft doesn't quite fit. It's too tight. goes in about 2/3 of the way.

3/8" is technically .375 but this seems just slightly too thin for the job. So where do I go from here?

First thing I notice is that my reamer marked 3/8" is thinner than a 3/8" drill bit.

So is it a case of a 10mm reamer? 10mm is .39".  Is that too wide?

I'm sure reaming out hosels is something you guys do all the time, so what's the right tool here?


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Edited by pmcuk, 08 May 2014 - 02:15 PM.


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#2 Techvan4Life

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 02:15 PM

Not sure if you are looking for an actual reamer or just a drill bit but these guys have them both in the actual .370 size

http://www.golfmecha... prepping tools
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#3 pmcuk

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 03:09 PM

View PostTechvan4Life, on 08 May 2014 - 02:15 PM, said:

Not sure if you are looking for an actual reamer or just a drill bit but these guys have them both in the actual .370 size

http://www.golfmecha... prepping tools

I'm looking for a reamer, not a drill bit. And I'm in the UK I'm afraid, so would order here.

The issue here seems to be that a 3/8" reamer isn't the same as a 3/8" drill bit, which is wider.

So I want to know what reamer to buy. I'd be looking at standard metric or imperial sizes rather than a specific golf product - want to know the actual size reamer that's used for this.

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#4 Techvan4Life

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 03:39 PM

I'm sorry I couldn't help, you asked for the right tool and I gave you it.  It's a .370 reamer, now if you want to continue trying to find things at your local hardware store that exactly fit what you specially want then good luck to you.  Once again you asked the question "want to know the actual size reamer that's used for this" - the actual size is .370 and it is available at that website.  Nobody can help you if you cannot get out of your own way.
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#5 braby33

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 03:59 PM

Measure your shaft, and see if it is oversized.  

Drills themselves are usually pretty close to their nominal size, but they usually cut oversize.

Reamers usually cut very close to stated size. One usually uses an undersized drill and follows up with a correctly sized reamer when hole dimensions are important, and you are not set up to bore the hole on a milling machine or lathe.  

One other possibility is that a golf specific nominal 370 reamer may actually be correctly oversized for 370 hostels.  Never had one on hand to measure.


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#6 pmcuk

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 04:02 PM

View PostTechvan4Life, on 08 May 2014 - 03:39 PM, said:

I'm sorry I couldn't help, you asked for the right tool and I gave you it.  It's a .370 reamer, now if you want to continue trying to find things at your local hardware store that exactly fit what you specially want then good luck to you.  Once again you asked the question "want to know the actual size reamer that's used for this" - the actual size is .370 and it is available at that website.  Nobody can help you if you cannot get out of your own way.

Hi there - I do realise you were trying to help and thank you for that. But if you read what I'm saying, a .370" reamer, or in my case a 3/8" reamer which should be .375" isn't wide enough. Believe me, I've tried it. So what your golf store is nominally calling ".370" may actually not actually measure this - maybe it's actually wider. Or if it's exactly .370" then it's no better than what I have already. Yes?

I've been reading this account of reaming by an engineer.  http://clubmaker-online.com/rk.drillpress.html

This guy is a tool nut, and has several widths of reamer. Here's an excerpt:


"Now as to the reamers. A lot of ST'ers lately have asked me what reamers should they buy, my reply was not as many as I have. I would get for metal woods a ; .335, / .337 / .339 / .341 / and a .343. For Irons i would get; .370 / .373 / .375 / .377 / .379 . These should cover just about all your needs. I have/had reamers in .001 increments from .335 up to .348 for woods and .370 up to .383 for irons. But as all ST'ers know I'm nuts plus I like tools. As to how much stock to remove safely, I've always posted that you should never try and remove more than .015 per side, but .0075 s best. The most amount of stock that you would want to remove with a reamer is .020, .010 per side."

So going on this, the maximum size reamer to use would be .390". That's .370 plus .02. That's exactly 10mm. If that's the case I need to make the first cut with the 3/8" reamer I have, and finish off with a 10mm reamer. But something less than 10mm would be better. I don't know where the guy above gets all his reamers, but here in the UK it's hard to get anything outside of standard sizes.

Since as I said, a 3/8" reamer is narrower than a 3/8" drill bit (or is in my case) this really isn't a simple matter. Fractions make a difference.

Edited by pmcuk, 08 May 2014 - 04:16 PM.


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#7 pmcuk

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 04:07 PM

View Postbraby33, on 08 May 2014 - 03:59 PM, said:

One other possibility is that a golf specific nominal 370 reamer may actually be correctly oversized for 370 hostels.  Never had one on hand to measure.

Yes - exactly. That's what I just posted - our posts overlapped.

I have a basic slide caliper but it wouldn't measure shaft diameter in enough detail to know if it's the shaft. I could try a few different shafts in the same hosel. I'm trying to fit a GS95 parallel tip shaft. Will experiment some more.

Thanks for that.

Update: Tried a few parallel tip shafts - the steel ones all go in 20mm. I have a graphite one which goes in the full 30mm.

Further update: I think I see the problem here - measuring my reamer with my calipers it looks as if it's tapered. So seems I do in fact need a .370" or 9.4mm reamer but one which is straight and not tapered. I didn't know they came in different types, and it's not marked on the reamer.

Found a big tool site and looked at reamers. From what I see, what you need for this job is a hand reamer, not chucking. And a left hand spiral, RH cut. And a straight shank, not taper shank. And a straight flute, not taper flute. It was the taper flute that was the issue. I don't know why they don't mark this on the actual tool.

So as above, I think I solved it.


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Edited by pmcuk, 10 May 2014 - 05:31 AM.


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#8 Bad9

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 06:28 PM

View Postpmcuk, on 08 May 2014 - 04:02 PM, said:

View PostTechvan4Life, on 08 May 2014 - 03:39 PM, said:

I'm sorry I couldn't help, you asked for the right tool and I gave you it.  It's a .370 reamer, now if you want to continue trying to find things at your local hardware store that exactly fit what you specially want then good luck to you.  Once again you asked the question "want to know the actual size reamer that's used for this" - the actual size is .370 and it is available at that website.  Nobody can help you if you cannot get out of your own way.

Hi there - I do realise you were trying to help and thank you for that. But if you read what I'm saying, a .370" reamer, or in my case a 3/8" reamer which should be .375" isn't wide enough. Believe me, I've tried it. So what your golf store is nominally calling ".370" may actually not actually measure this - maybe it's actually wider. Or if it's exactly .370" then it's no better than what I have already. Yes?

I've been reading this account of reaming by an engineer.  http://clubmaker-online.com/rk.drillpress.html

This guy is a tool nut, and has several widths of reamer. Here's an excerpt:


"Now as to the reamers. A lot of ST'ers lately have asked me what reamers should they buy, my reply was not as many as I have. I would get for metal woods a ; .335, / .337 / .339 / .341 / and a .343. For Irons i would get; .370 / .373 / .375 / .377 / .379 . These should cover just about all your needs. I have/had reamers in .001 increments from .335 up to .348 for woods and .370 up to .383 for irons. But as all ST'ers know I'm nuts plus I like tools. As to how much stock to remove safely, I've always posted that you should never try and remove more than .015 per side, but .0075 s best. The most amount of stock that you would want to remove with a reamer is .020, .010 per side."

So going on this, the maximum size reamer to use would be .390". That's .370 plus .02. That's exactly 10mm. If that's the case I need to make the first cut with the 3/8" reamer I have, and finish off with a 10mm reamer. But something less than 10mm would be better. I don't know where the guy above gets all his reamers, but here in the UK it's hard to get anything outside of standard sizes.

Since as I said, a 3/8" reamer is narrower than a 3/8" drill bit (or is in my case) this really isn't a simple matter. Fractions make a difference.


The only advice I can offer is to order a .370 reamer from one of the golf tool places, that's what I did.

The stuff quoted really takes me back. That was written by Richard Kennedy 10+ years ago on the old Shop Talk mailing list. That was a great forum for club making info and advice. And RK certainly was a tool nut and came up with a number of highly regarded tools including a shaft extractor and hosel reaming fixture. He was also threading hoses for better epoxy adhesion before I saw anyone else doing it.
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#9 ronsc1985

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 06:42 PM

Don't make this more complicated then it is. A .370 reamer is actually a 9.4 mm reamer. Just get a 9.4 mm straight taper reamer and go to it.

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#10 pmcuk

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 02:50 AM

View Postronsc1985, on 08 May 2014 - 06:42 PM, said:

Don't make this more complicated then it is. A .370 reamer is actually a 9.4 mm reamer. Just get a 9.4 mm straight taper reamer and go to it.

Indeed - the "complicated" stuff came from me assuming that my reamer was a straight flute since it didn't say otherwise. I've been looking for suppliers here in the UK and they commonly stock tapered reamers for "straight through holes". So I'm hunting down a straight flute one that will ream out the remaining 10mm of stock. Gamola only have drill bits. When I find a supplier I'll post the details for those in the UK.

I enjoy a bit of hobby engineering and using tools so this has been educational.


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#11 Manz60

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 08:20 PM

these people ship international
http://www.golfsmith...g-drill-bit-370

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#12 hobbygolfer

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 04:13 AM

Hi pmuk,

I work for a clubmaking distributor in Germany and we don't have any issues to find a straight 9.4 mm H7 reamer at all. We buy those from a company called Hoffmann tools. If you need the contact or want to order the reamer from us, just let me know.

Regards,
Michael

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#13 pmcuk

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 04:44 AM

View Posthobbygolfer, on 10 May 2014 - 04:13 AM, said:

Hi pmuk,

I work for a clubmaking distributor in Germany and we don't have any issues to find a straight 9.4 mm H7 reamer at all. We buy those from a company called Hoffmann tools. If you need the contact or want to order the reamer from us, just let me know.

Regards,
Michael

Hi Michael. Thanks for the tip and thanks Manz60 as well. I'd order from Europe as a first choice - quicker delivery and no import tax and handling charges (I've always had that on boxes - not sure of smaller items).

I'm finding that generally the hand reamers come in tapered flute. I'm having a lot more luck with the chucking reamers, and I've ordered a couple of those with straight flutes off ebay because they were cheap. One in 3/8" and one in .372. The 3/8" arrived and it's too wide really - a thousandth of an inch clearly makes a difference in engineering. So I'll look out for a proper .370 now - will check out Hoffmann - very impressive website. I think you mean this one.

http://eshop.hoffman.../detail/162900/[9,4]/?campaign=CWS/SEARCH

Getting there! I can always order from Canada or the States if I don't find what I want here, but given the great history of engineering in Britain and Germany they must surely have the tools.

On the subject of cutting fluid I've been using paraffin for reaming because I have plenty, but I read that in theory for stainless steel it should be synthetic cutting fluid or tallow based mineral oil. Don't know if that's totally overkill for hand reaming.


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Edited by pmcuk, 10 May 2014 - 05:18 AM.


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#14 Upgrayedd

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 07:36 AM

it sounds like you have it figured out now. i was going to say there is no way you reamed it out all the way to the bottom at .375 and it won't accept a .370 shaft.

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#15 pmcuk

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 04:58 AM

View PostUpgrayedd, on 10 May 2014 - 07:36 AM, said:

it sounds like you have it figured out now. i was going to say there is no way you reamed it out all the way to the bottom at .375 and it won't accept a .370 shaft.

Yes - figured it out, and learned quite a bit about reamers in the process. Very interesting.

If you're buying in Europe, then two leading models that correspond to .370 are these:

GUHRING HSS-E SPIRAL 6 FLUTES MACHINE REAMER Ø 9.40mm H7. STRAIGHT SHANK

HERTEL HLR 10094K 9.4mm HSS-E Chucking Reamer Parallel Shank

Around 25 Euros, but depends on the supplier. You need major suppliers with a bigger stock - smaller suppliers will just do the 9.5mm (3/8") which is too big. And as mentioned before, the hand reamers are tapered so you need a chucking/machine reamer with the straight shank. A 3/8" hand reamer with tapered shank will do the first 20mm but you need the 9.4mm straight shank for the last 10mm.



.

Edited by pmcuk, 11 May 2014 - 05:09 AM.


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#16 neilc

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 05:57 AM

View Postpmcuk, on 08 May 2014 - 03:09 PM, said:

View PostTechvan4Life, on 08 May 2014 - 02:15 PM, said:

Not sure if you are looking for an actual reamer or just a drill bit but these guys have them both in the actual .370 size

http://www.golfmecha... prepping tools

I'm looking for a reamer, not a drill bit. And I'm in the UK I'm afraid, so would order here.

The issue here seems to be that a 3/8" reamer isn't the same as a 3/8" drill bit, which is wider.

So I want to know what reamer to buy. I'd be looking at standard metric or imperial sizes rather than a specific golf product - want to know the actual size reamer that's used for this.

Ive been using a 370 reamer  i got  from   Golfworks If I remember

in conjunction with a drill press

but  you could phone up Diamond Golf and ask them

01903  726999 from memory

Edited by neilc, 11 May 2014 - 06:00 AM.


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#17 Upgrayedd

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 06:09 AM

Starting the job with the tapered bit is a very good idea imo. 9.4 is exactly .370 (i think) so that straight flute should work. I like a tight fit at the bottom as long as it seats all the way down and when you rough up the shaft that probably buys an extra thousandth anyway. A lot of guys (in the usa) use .373 reamers for a perfect fit but perfect isn't required in my book. The mechanical lock is valuable too.

Edited by Upgrayedd, 11 May 2014 - 06:16 AM.


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#18 no where to look

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 06:26 AM

http://www.custompar...rill-size-chart

Reamers are meant to increase a hole size by 0.005-0.008 inch, only.
Reamers make an existing hole 'true', ie remove ovality.

to go from taper tip to 0.370, the important thing not to do is to make hole too large. Shaft wont be centered or straight.

If you use a 3/8 drill bit, hole will end up oversize. I used a 'U' drill bit (0.368 inch) then a 9.4mm reamer.(soft carbon steel club heads)

Two out of three local club fitters had I left it to them to do, would have used 3/8 drill bit.  buyer beware.

Edited by no where to look, 11 May 2014 - 06:28 AM.


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#19 pmcuk

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 08:11 AM

View Postno where to look, on 11 May 2014 - 06:26 AM, said:

http://www.custompar...rill-size-chart

Reamers are meant to increase a hole size by 0.005-0.008 inch, only.
Reamers make an existing hole 'true', ie remove ovality.

to go from taper tip to 0.370, the important thing not to do is to make hole too large. Shaft wont be centered or straight.

If you use a 3/8 drill bit, hole will end up oversize. I used a 'U' drill bit (0.368 inch) then a 9.4mm reamer.(soft carbon steel club heads)

Two out of three local club fitters had I left it to them to do, would have used 3/8 drill bit.  buyer beware.

Buyer beware indeed - good to know! Thanks for that.

Why would you use a drill bit at all? It doesn't take long to hand ream with a tapered 3/8" hand reamer and finish off with a 9.4mm (.370).

There's no explanation in this video, but the guy is clearly using two hand reamers - one to start and one to finish. He takes 25 seconds with the first reamer and 50 seconds with the second reamer.

https://www.youtube....h?v=CbZzvezWQUw


.

Edited by pmcuk, 11 May 2014 - 08:17 AM.


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#20 no where to look

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 04:56 PM

View Postpmcuk, on 11 May 2014 - 08:11 AM, said:

View Postno where to look, on 11 May 2014 - 06:26 AM, said:

http://www.custompar...rill-size-chart

Reamers are meant to increase a hole size by 0.005-0.008 inch, only.
Reamers make an existing hole 'true', ie remove ovality.

to go from taper tip to 0.370, the important thing not to do is to make hole too large. Shaft wont be centered or straight.

If you use a 3/8 drill bit, hole will end up oversize. I used a 'U' drill bit (0.368 inch) then a 9.4mm reamer.(soft carbon steel club heads)

Two out of three local club fitters had I left it to them to do, would have used 3/8 drill bit.  buyer beware.

Buyer beware indeed - good to know! Thanks for that.

Why would you use a drill bit at all? It doesn't take long to hand ream with a tapered 3/8" hand reamer and finish off with a 9.4mm (.370).

There's no explanation in this video, but the guy is clearly using two hand reamers - one to start and one to finish. He takes 25 seconds with the first reamer and 50 seconds with the second reamer.

https://www.youtube....h?v=CbZzvezWQUw


.

pmcuk,

Sure can do that with two different reamers and remove as much as, 0.008 inch with each. as long as the club head is soft carbon steel.
SS casting for get it.

A HS Drill bit is about $12.00, much less than a reamer, .but do need a drill press.to drill.

Edited by no where to look, 11 May 2014 - 04:57 PM.


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#21 pmcuk

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 06:27 PM

View Postno where to look, on 11 May 2014 - 04:56 PM, said:


Sure can do that with two different reamers and remove as much as, 0.008 inch with each. as long as the club head is soft carbon steel.
SS casting for get it. A HS Drill bit is about $12.00, much less than a reamer, .but do need a drill press.to drill.

Good point - I didn't notice if the club in the video was forged or not. My clubs are cast SS, so maybe I'm looking at a limited lifespan for the reamers. Haven't got that far yet. I've just done three or four. I have a drill press, though not a vice that would hold a club head.

If I'm going to do two or three sets of irons, should I be drilling instead of reaming?

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#22 no where to look

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 08:03 PM

View Postpmcuk, on 11 May 2014 - 06:27 PM, said:

View Postno where to look, on 11 May 2014 - 04:56 PM, said:

Sure can do that with two different reamers and remove as much as, 0.008 inch with each. as long as the club head is soft carbon steel.
SS casting for get it. A HS Drill bit is about $12.00, much less than a reamer, .but do need a drill press.to drill.

Good point - I didn't notice if the club in the video was forged or not. My clubs are cast SS, so maybe I'm looking at a limited lifespan for the reamers. Haven't got that far yet. I've just done three or four. I have a drill press, though not a vice that would hold a club head.

If I'm going to do two or three sets of irons, should I be drilling instead of reaming?

pmchuk
I did one set of TM300 very soft carbon steel heads; and ' U',  drill bit and 9.4 mm reamer are like new

Id send you the drill bit, but postage is probably more than cost to buy a drill bit.
To drill properly, do use drill press and proper clamp to hole the club head
I took the drill bit and reamer to a club fitter who had drill press and clamp. It took about 2 minutes per head.

Notice the chatter when the guy in the video was using the reamers? thats not good for the tool or the clubhead., IMO

Edited by no where to look, 11 May 2014 - 08:05 PM.


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#23 pmcuk

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 04:17 AM

View Postno where to look, on 11 May 2014 - 08:03 PM, said:


Id send you the drill bit, but postage is probably more than cost to buy a drill bit.
To drill properly, do use drill press and proper clamp to hole the club head


Nice of you to offer - I just bought a 9.4mm reamer and a 9.4mm drill bit, so should be covered. I used MSC Industrial Supply in the UK. They have a good selection.

I probably didn't need to in fact - I also got a .3715 reamer off ebay which works fine. It's a chucking reamer so I put the reamer in the vice and turn the club head on it. Works perfectly after using the 3/8" tapered hand reamer. We'll have to see how long the reamers last. I'm just a hobbyist so not industrial quantities!

How to clamp a club head is another story entirely......  I'd probably put the hosel in a vice and use a hand drill at low speed.

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#24 retrogolfrl

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 06:09 AM

Did anybody ask if his shaft tip had been preped. Some times the simples solutions are are right there in front of you.

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#25 no where to look

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 05:10 PM

View Postpmcuk, on 12 May 2014 - 04:17 AM, said:

View Postno where to look, on 11 May 2014 - 08:03 PM, said:

Id send you the drill bit, but postage is probably more than cost to buy a drill bit.
To drill properly, do use drill press and proper clamp to hole the club head


Nice of you to offer - I just bought a 9.4mm reamer and a 9.4mm drill bit, so should be covered. I used MSC Industrial Supply in the UK. They have a good selection.

I probably didn't need to in fact - I also got a .3715 reamer off ebay which works fine. It's a chucking reamer so I put the reamer in the vice and turn the club head on it. Works perfectly after using the 3/8" tapered hand reamer. We'll have to see how long the reamers last. I'm just a hobbyist so not industrial quantities!

How to clamp a club head is another story entirely......  I'd probably put the hosel in a vice and use a hand drill at low speed.

pmcuk,
Ive had to learn a little about machining in my occupation.

The reason to use an undersize drill bit is because with drilling, hole can become oval due to movement, 'chatter.'
A reamer can correct those imperfections but not from a hole that is already to size.

Sounds your getting the job done. Its just golf, not rocket science.

interested to know depth of hosel for the 0.370 shaft.  Mine is a good 1.5 inches.


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#26 pmcuk

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 03:30 AM

View Postno where to look, on 12 May 2014 - 05:10 PM, said:


pmcuk,
Ive had to learn a little about machining in my occupation.

The reason to use an undersize drill bit is because with drilling, hole can become oval due to movement, 'chatter.'
A reamer can correct those imperfections but not from a hole that is already to size.

Sounds your getting the job done. Its just golf, not rocket science.

interested to know depth of hosel for the 0.370 shaft.  Mine is a good 1.5 inches.

I've reamed out some heads now and it all works fine. Waiting for a 9.4mm drill bit. But from what you say maybe it should be 9.3mm.

The hosels on AP1 710 heads are 29mm deep. That's 1.14". My Mizuno heads were 31mm, and a CER head was 33mm. Does vary.

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#27 no where to look

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 08:57 PM

View Postpmcuk, on 13 May 2014 - 03:30 AM, said:

View Postno where to look, on 12 May 2014 - 05:10 PM, said:

pmcuk,
Ive had to learn a little about machining in my occupation.

The reason to use an undersize drill bit is because with drilling, hole can become oval due to movement, 'chatter.'
A reamer can correct those imperfections but not from a hole that is already to size.

Sounds your getting the job done. Its just golf, not rocket science.

interested to know depth of hosel for the 0.370 shaft.  Mine is a good 1.5 inches.

I've reamed out some heads now and it all works fine. Waiting for a 9.4mm drill bit. But from what you say maybe it should be 9.3mm.

The hosels on AP1 710 heads are 29mm deep. That's 1.14". My Mizuno heads were 31mm, and a CER head was 33mm. Does vary.

pmcuk

1.14 inch depth seems too shallow
I don't think your reaming the smallest tapered section of the hosel bore.

the taper section is about 1/2 inch or less in depth That is where the material is 0.355 inch. A reamer wont cut into that from 0.370.

I suggest, you make a depth gauge out of a thin pencil or small Philips driver, measure how deep the hosel is. I think you will find that is where you need to use the drill bit.

I could be wrong, but you don't want to epoxy the shaft into the hosel with 0.25-0.4 inch of space below the end of the shaft.

27

#28 pmcuk

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 05:19 AM

View Postno where to look, on 13 May 2014 - 08:57 PM, said:

View Postpmcuk, on 13 May 2014 - 03:30 AM, said:

View Postno where to look, on 12 May 2014 - 05:10 PM, said:

pmcuk,
Ive had to learn a little about machining in my occupation.

The reason to use an undersize drill bit is because with drilling, hole can become oval due to movement, 'chatter.'
A reamer can correct those imperfections but not from a hole that is already to size.

Sounds your getting the job done. Its just golf, not rocket science.

interested to know depth of hosel for the 0.370 shaft.  Mine is a good 1.5 inches.

I've reamed out some heads now and it all works fine. Waiting for a 9.4mm drill bit. But from what you say maybe it should be 9.3mm.

The hosels on AP1 710 heads are 29mm deep. That's 1.14". My Mizuno heads were 31mm, and a CER head was 33mm. Does vary.

pmcuk

1.14 inch depth seems too shallow. I don't think your reaming the smallest tapered section of the hosel bore. The taper section is about 1/2 inch or less in depth That is where the material is 0.355 inch. A reamer wont cut into that from 0.370.

I suggest, you make a depth gauge out of a thin pencil or small Philips driver, measure how deep the hosel is. I think you will find that is where you need to use the drill bit.

I could be wrong, but you don't want to epoxy the shaft into the hosel with 0.25-0.4 inch of space below the end of the shaft.

I have a depth gauge just like you say, and the AP1 710 heads are definitely 29mm. When you ream it out the shaft goes to the end. The bottom of the hosel is flat as far as I can see. The bottom of a drill bit will be V shaped so it won't take off stock down to the bottom unless it goes further into the hosel. So I guess the reamer does the job here.

28

#29 no where to look

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 05:50 AM

View Postpmcuk, on 14 May 2014 - 05:19 AM, said:

View Postno where to look, on 13 May 2014 - 08:57 PM, said:

View Postpmcuk, on 13 May 2014 - 03:30 AM, said:

View Postno where to look, on 12 May 2014 - 05:10 PM, said:

pmcuk,
Ive had to learn a little about machining in my occupation.

The reason to use an undersize drill bit is because with drilling, hole can become oval due to movement, 'chatter.'
A reamer can correct those imperfections but not from a hole that is already to size.

Sounds your getting the job done. Its just golf, not rocket science.

interested to know depth of hosel for the 0.370 shaft.  Mine is a good 1.5 inches.

I've reamed out some heads now and it all works fine. Waiting for a 9.4mm drill bit. But from what you say maybe it should be 9.3mm.

The hosels on AP1 710 heads are 29mm deep. That's 1.14". My Mizuno heads were 31mm, and a CER head was 33mm. Does vary.

pmcuk

1.14 inch depth seems too shallow. I don't think your reaming the smallest tapered section of the hosel bore. The taper section is about 1/2 inch or less in depth That is where the material is 0.355 inch. A reamer wont cut into that from 0.370.

I suggest, you make a depth gauge out of a thin pencil or small Philips driver, measure how deep the hosel is. I think you will find that is where you need to use the drill bit.

I could be wrong, but you don't want to epoxy the shaft into the hosel with 0.25-0.4 inch of space below the end of the shaft.

I have a depth gauge just like you say, and the AP1 710 heads are definitely 29mm. When you ream it out the shaft goes to the end. The bottom of the hosel is flat as far as I can see. The bottom of a drill bit will be V shaped so it won't take off stock down to the bottom unless it goes further into the hosel. So I guess the reamer does the job here.


stand corrected.

may be a few good tips on this site http://thesandtrap.c...70-any-pointers

29

#30 Tnfbfan76

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 09:30 AM

View Posthobbygolfer, on 10 May 2014 - 04:13 AM, said:

Hi pmuk,

I work for a clubmaking distributor in Germany and we don't have any issues to find a straight 9.4 mm H7 reamer at all. We buy those from a company called Hoffmann tools. If you need the contact or want to order the reamer from us, just let me know.

Regards,
Michael

Where are you located? I need some reamers. P


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